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Mystery 109 Build; Revealed!


PhilB

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Managed to do a bit more today.

I had problems with the fit of the leading edge slats on the undersides;

 

STB wing

P8051444.jpg

 

Port wing

P8051448.jpg

 

The port wing is very nearly there but the stbd has quite a gap.

When I actually looked at the wings the lower wing kit part on the stb side was actually thicker in this area than the other.

I wasn't keen to use my filler as it tends to sink when sanded and I would have to rescribe the joint which is very difficult.

So I used some pieces of 10 thou card, ca'd into place.

This still gives the panel line with the wing joint.

I then used my good old Flexifile to sand them flush.

 

STB wing:

P8051449.jpg

 

Port wing

P8051451.jpg

 

I've also had to fill the sink marks on both upper wings caused by the internal strengthening spar.

 

P8051455.jpg

 

I've fitted the upper radiator flaps in a flush position.

I understand that these moved in conjunction with the normal trailing edge flaps.

Looking at the picture in post 45 you can see he had a few degrees of flap on landing but the upper radiator flap is flush.

The picture in post 30 also shows this flap as flush.

I am probably just going to drop the lower radiator flap a little to comply with the amount of landing flap deployed.

 

Maybe nothing more for a day or two as I'm going to the big city tomorrow to meet up with an old pal, talk war stories and probably get plastered!

 

Phil

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Although hardly noticeable here, there are 4 small rectangles onto which the 'D' rings would be set. The fuel/air relief line locations are more noticeable. If I may, the 2 dimples to either side of the rectangular cut-out are relief tubes. They can either have a hole drilled into them or be drilled out and have wire insulation, or some other tubing, stuck into them. The holes for the fairing can be filled.

 

I would not be offended if others post what they consider alternative theories.

 

I hope this is helpful.

Sincerely,

Mark

 

So THAT is what those squares were for ! When I did my Von Hammer 109 I wondered about that... thanks for clearing that up, I'll use it on my next 109 build. Great stuff Mark, love what you are doing with this build.

 

Cheers

 

Vaughn

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'Thanks very much again Mark!'

Roger that, Phil. My pleasure. I'm just glad I wasn't WRONG!

 

'Great stuff Mark, love what you are doing with this build.'

Thank you, Vaughn. But this is Phil's build.

 

Sincerely,

Mark

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:BANGHEAD2: :o Thats all!..........Harv :rolleyes:

Thanks for the reply Harv, much appreciated!

 

Great stuff Mark, love what you are doing with this build.

Thanks Vaughn, I know what you meant! :unsure:

 

ooops... sorry guys.

No apology needed! Mark has been working on this build with me, helping me with technical details.

I am no 109 expert only having built the Trumpy 1/24 G-6 before a few years ago.

Its a great help to have someone who is also building similar versions at the same time and superdetailing them to help out with details that are specific to the

build I'm trying to do which is a bit different from the norm.

That's why I only put my work on LSP where I know there are people willing to help.

 

Aaaaaah! Group Hug!!!!

 

Phil :)

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So I then removed the "collar" from the boss by careful use of my wonderful mission models chisel

and cut a couple of mm from the locating pin on the blade to allow it to sink into the boss a bit more:

 

post-13803-1280932289.jpgpost-13803-1280932234.jpg

 

He's much happier now and is set very much like the original photo. :tumble:

He's not quite the same shape so we might have to feed him up to make him a bit fatter!

 

More soon.

 

Phil

 

Smiley faces are the future! :)

 

Excellent work there Phil :unsure:

 

Derek

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Smiley faces are the future! :please:

Sure are Derek!

Thanks to you and Håkan for the kind words.

 

I managed to fix the blades in the boss and set them at a very feathered angle.

 

I used hot water and a hairdryer (not at the same time though!) to slowly bend them into shapes

that matched as far as I could see the photos of the crashed aircraft. Not easy at all

as the blades are pretty thick and like to try to go back to normal shape when heated.

Here's a head on shot:

 

P8101461.jpg

 

It appears the lower left blade took most of the initial impact as its far more deformed than the other.

I've tried to take a couple of pics at roughly the angle of the original photos to try and compare:

 

post-13803-1281439736.jpgpost-13803-1281439759.jpg

 

Another couple in a minute.

 

Phil

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Here's a couple more to compare.

Its pretty difficult to get the same angles in the photos' but I'm pretty satisfied the blades are as close as I'm going to get.

Any more abuse and I think they will snap!

 

post-13803-1281440032.jpgpost-13803-1281440017.jpg

 

More gripping stuff soon!

 

Phil

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That could have gone wrong, very quickly in sooo many ways. But no, that looks bloody perfect!

Thanks Keith. One thing that did go wrong was I used Araldite 2-part epoxy to fix the blades. Left it overnight to harden off,

but this morning when I was using a bowl of boiling water to dip the blades in,

the steam got to it and it went mushy! Dug it out and used Slo-Zap ca which worked fine and gave me time to adjust the blades again.

You are right about the potential though, it was a real "bottle" tester.

"Bottle" = UK slang for courage as in "you need some bottle to build that dog's dinner of kit mate!"

which means," You will need considerable fortitude to construct that substandard aircraft model my friend"

 

I agree with Keith Phil. You've really nailed it.

Thanks Kev.

 

Very convincing! I think you have got it.....Harv :BANGHEAD2:

Thanks Harv.

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