JRutman Posted February 16, 2010 Author Share Posted February 16, 2010 I was working on the top of the boom and just figuring out how to tackle the turbo when I got a very fortuitous delivery in the mail. I traded something for the trumpy P-38 and it arrived today!.You can see the difference in the revell and trumpy turbos. The revell one is not that bad considering it's about 40 years old! The Trumpy kit is one of the better trumpy kits,I think. The props are really bad but the rest is nice enough. I would buy half a dozen if they didn't cost so much. Do we really need all of that engine stuff? Why don't they offer a version sans engines? I am a big fan of the Hasegawa business model for kits. Just me. Here are the 2 scoops for the boom top in their infancy stages. The turbo is just setting in there and is too low. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phill P Posted February 16, 2010 Share Posted February 16, 2010 Outstanding work there young fella! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shark64 Posted February 16, 2010 Share Posted February 16, 2010 Spectacular work on that cockpit. Holy smokes that rocks. I like it a lot. Oliver Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JRutman Posted February 17, 2010 Author Share Posted February 17, 2010 Thanks for the comments fellas! I have ben working on the sanding and rescribing of the fuelage when I get tired of looking at tiny bits in the cockpit. Here is a pic of some progress on the fuselage. The P-38 design team figured out on these early a/c that the wings needed a fillit at the wingroot,I think,for better aerodynamics so this was corrected early on. Ironically,the Revell kitwhile supposed to be a later J model,does not have this fillit on the fuselage. It's on the wing though. This will take a lot more work on the surface detail. The other pic shows the boom radiator scoops on the kit(silver) for the later versions of the 38 and the resin cut down version on the early a/c. The resin is from my backdate set. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_Ray Posted February 17, 2010 Share Posted February 17, 2010 Hey, Jerry, that is looking really good! I scanned some photos from the Aerodetail book on the P-38 for you of the radio deck. Hopefully they will help until you get your copy from RZM!!! They are of a 'L' IIRC, but hopefully the flat box is similar!! Couldn't find any radio deck pics of an E or F in my ref's! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
big matt Posted February 18, 2010 Share Posted February 18, 2010 That cockpit is looking awesome! Wow. I can't wait for the paint. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JRutman Posted February 18, 2010 Author Share Posted February 18, 2010 Thanks for the pixs Ray. The flat box is not in that series though as your pics are from a later model. I found a drawing from the pilots manual for the P-51B that has what I believe are views of that box but I can't be sure. It would make sense because they were both earlier planes. I am sure that I will get the definitive answer as soon as I seal up the cockpit!LOL Isn't that how it always goes? Matt,great work on that butcher bird. I got more resin yesterday so I will get to your bomb pretty soon. Of course this means less time to BUILD MODELS!!! Sigh. J Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest canuck63 Posted February 18, 2010 Share Posted February 18, 2010 WOW !Great detailing Jerry....it's nice to see you building something for your own pleasure.....gonna follow your thread for sure! Cheers Manny Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rotary Posted February 18, 2010 Share Posted February 18, 2010 Hi Jerry, This may not be at all relevant but when the Revell kit was first released the technique (which also worked with the P47) was to sand down flush all 'rivet' detail then brush liqid cement over all plastic. This resulted in a dipping effect over the 'thinned' plastic of the rivets---leaving a very subtle 'sunken' rivet detail...don't know if the latest plastic will still do this---but I wonder if anyone remembers this technique, which was first mentioned in 'Scale Models'--more years ago than I want to remember.. Cheers, Dave. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek B Posted February 18, 2010 Share Posted February 18, 2010 Hi Jerry, This may not be at all relevant but when the Revell kit was first released the technique (which also worked with the P47) was to sand down flush all 'rivet' detail then brush liqid cement over all plastic. This resulted in a dipping effect over the 'thinned' plastic of the rivets---leaving a very subtle 'sunken' rivet detail...don't know if the latest plastic will still do this---but I wonder if anyone remembers this technique, which was first mentioned in 'Scale Models'--more years ago than I want to remember.. Cheers, Dave. Dave, Works pretty well. I find that I get a very similar effect on sanded rivets (and sanded raised lines) using certain acrylic aerosol primers and most noticeably with cellulouse aerosol primers (be very careful how you go with the last one - it can attack plastics pretty badly if applied too thickly). Cheers Derek Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JRutman Posted February 18, 2010 Author Share Posted February 18, 2010 Thanks for the tip guys! I will try it a little but I am not a big fan of rivit detail. Usually to see the rivits on a 1/1 plane you need to get pretty close. We'll see. I am trying a lot of new technigues on this baby so why not? J Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rotary Posted February 18, 2010 Share Posted February 18, 2010 Dave, Works pretty well. I find that I get a very similar effect on sanded rivets (and sanded raised lines) using certain acrylic aerosol primers and most noticeably with cellulouse aerosol primers (be very careful how you go with the last one - it can attack plastics pretty badly if applied too thickly). Cheers Derek Hi Derek, And that (aerosol primer) works on decal rib tapes--i used the technique (found it by mistake) on my Trump. Hurri about a year ago (just sfter it was released anyway). It gives a slightly 'pickled' effect which is a reasonable simulation of stitching---reasonable, but difficult to control... Dave. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JRutman Posted February 20, 2010 Author Share Posted February 20, 2010 I was casting resin most of the day and only took a little time out to get some painting in. Haven't painted in a while and it shows. Pics could be better as well but here goes... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
theseeker Posted February 20, 2010 Share Posted February 20, 2010 Jerry, PM sent.... Rocky Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marek Posted February 20, 2010 Share Posted February 20, 2010 Fantastik work! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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