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Found 13 results

  1. Hello again, all. After a couple of non LSP kits, I decided I'd get back to the Master Scale. My lovely wife bought me the MkVIII Spit for Father's Day, so I thought I'd get right to it. I just have to say, this is, as we all expect from Tamiya LSPs, a beautiful kit. It could be built straight out of the box and look fantastic. So, naturally, I bought a bunch of after market . Actually, as I'll discuss later, I think I may have actually bought too much aftermarket (is such a thing even possible?) I went with HGW seat belts, Barracuda decals and cockpit upgrades, the Eduard exterior photoetch set, and a Yahu IP. My first attempt at HGW belts had been frustrating, so I have left that part for now. I do, however, want to talk about the interior resin upgrade set. It is of course, beautiful work from Roy as always. However, more to the praise of Tamiya than to the detriment of Barracuda, I'm not sure that it is that much better than the kit parts. I've posted below some comparison photos of the relevant parts. The seat is the one clear winner for me. Fortunately it's sold as a separate piece. Tamiya elected not to mold the very prominent backrest cushion, which Barracuda has corrected. The other thing I do love about these particular parts is that they're made to be drop in replacements to the kit parts, complete with attachement points of the correct shape to fit to the sidewall. (I have since removed the flare rack from the front of the seat, which to my understanding is not correct for this mark. The compass is nearly identical. I honestly can't even tell you which is which in this photo The throttle quadrant does show a couple of nice additional details, but the kit part is very good on its own. As you can see, I still struggle with cleanly separating parts from the casting block. That handle is askance because I had to glue it back on after breaking it during sawing. Undercarriage controls. Again, a few nice details, but not a stark contrast as there is with some kits. The control column. The barracuda part comes with wire and asks you to drill three tiny holes to accommodate them. I used a #80 drill bit but still managed to break the part. I ended up using the kit part, with the resin handpiece, which does add some nice detail where the lines attach. Sidewall painted up with paint scraped away for the bulkhead attachments. Rather than try to drill again and ruin my only remaining control stick, I used lead wire and just cut it where it's meant to be going through, picking it back up on the other side. Some solder added for the hydraulic lines from the undercarriage lever. For some unknown reason, Tamiya have chosen to leave very prominent defects in this door. After trying unsucessfully to fill and sand them, I scraped away the detail, smoothed it over with some Bondo, and re-added the detail by scratch. The open door below shows that in progress. I deviated from the instructions and added the sidewalls to the fuselage halves so that I could add some wiring. I just noticed on the second picture that I'm missing a couple of bits that still need to be glued down on the starboard side. These upclose photos also unfortunately are demonstrating my sloppy painting. I usually brush paint Model Master Acryl semi gloss black for these parts, but have been unable to get it appropriately thinned - it either runs everywhere or goes on too thick, as below. I'm expecting a bottle of UMP universal thinner, which I'm going to try on it before switching brands entirely, but does anyone else have a favored paint for this? I prefer not to try to mask and spray all these little parts, so brush painting is a must. Control column and rudder pedals. There is a trick of the light, here, the starboard pedal has not suffered from green overspray. I added straps to the rudder pedals from Tamiya tape. Here's my door. Need to clean it up a little still. Waiting on a new bottle of MRP RAF interior green. The crowbar has yet to be built, but I am thinking that I'll whittle it out of styrene strip. While waiting for my Yahu panel to arrive, I decided to paint up the kit part. It has the usual coke bottle effect on the instrument glass, due to the way Tamiya engineers them, but looks pretty good. The Barracuda set also comes with placard decals. I will add those as well, and may save this pre-made panel for the next 1/32 spit I do (there will definitely be another, as I love Spits and this kit - probably Skalski's MkIX). I just realized looking at this that I somehow lost the bottom three instrument decals! D'oh! And the Barracuda resin seat. First with a base coat of MRP ochre wood, then dabbed and swirled with some burnt siena and burnt umber oils for the Bakelite effect. I was going to give this a top coat with MRP clear red brown, but I think it looks pretty good as is. Thoughts? Anyway, I'm about to go away for the holiday weekend, so I'll leave these oils to dry for a few days and hopefully my IP will be in the mail when I return! Gloss, decals, washes, and seatbelts still to go before I can close up the fuselage halves. Thanks for looking - as always comments criticisms are welcome!
  2. This year I aim to be building mainly RAF subjects and/or Great War subjects*, and here's one that's both, as my subject was from post-April 1918. As it happens, I had a clear workbench on the 30th December last year, and nothing on the Shelf of Doom, which is a first for me in a long time. So what to start my centenary-inspired RAF-fest with? I decided on the RE.8, so without further ado, I seriously devalued the kit in my stash by cutting the fuselage and wing parts from the sprues. There is not much progress so far. I've identified the wooden parts, and painted them, now I'm waiting for the oil "wood-grain" to dry. The lighter wood is Tamiya XF-59 with Burnt Sienna "grain", and the darker wood - prop and instrument board - XF59 and Burnt Umber. Any better suggestions, and indeed any comments in general, welcomed. Please be gentle though - my photography can probably be best described as "decent gear, but not much idea". As for my subject, I'll be doing C2731 of 5(AC) Sqn RAF, which is option 2 from Pheon's sheet RE.8 sheet. *Unless I get side-tracked by something ... Thanks for looking.
  3. G'day everyone, @mozart asked if I'd post some pics of this build, so here are the pics I have! I'm on a bit of a trainer kick at the moment so when I saw this for a good price on internet auction site, I decided to add it to the collection. Typical short run kit, plastic is very carvable, with fine recessed panel detail oh, a small sheet of photo etched, injection molded clear canopies with pre-cut masks and a nice selection of paint schemes. The kit makes you work with lots of carving and cleaning up of parts, gaps to fill and lots of interesting fit issues to solve but overall a nice model of a rarely kitted aircraft. I'm not entirely sure how either plastic instrument panel, or the photo etched instrument panel are supposed to fit to the instrument panel coaming. I ended up chopping up the photo etched panel and modifying the plastic panel to suit the coaming. Denzil
  4. 1/18 scale Hafner Rotabuggy flying Jeep Willys Royal Air Force 1943 Solido diecast conversion & scratchbuilt The Hafner Rotabuggy (formally known as the Blitz Buggy or Malcolm Rotaplane) was an experimental aircraft that was essentially a jeep (actually a Willys MB) combined with an autogyro. It was designed by Austrian born British designer Raul Hafner of the AFEE - Airborne Forces Experimental Establishment after their development of the Hafner Rotachute enjoyed some success. The prototype was built by the M.L. Aviation Company at White Waltham in 1942. One of several failed concepts for the equipping airborne forces, the effort and risk in getting the Rotabuggy into battle would probably have outweighed its utility. Initial testing showed that a Willys MB could be dropped from heights up to 2.35 metres (7.7 ft) without damage to the vehicle. A 12.4 metres (40.7 ft) diameter rotor was attached, along with a tail fairing and fins, but no rudders. The design work was carried out by AFEE staff, while most of the construction was undertaken by R. Malcolm Ltd, with H. Morris & Sons assisting in the manufacture of the rubber hub. The serial numbers RD123 and RD127 were allotted for the two Malcolm Blitz Buggys, although they were never to be used. The basic Jeep was fitted with a pylon to support the two-bladed rotor and a fairing to carry the tail surfaces. The Hafner Rotabuggy, as it became known, was to carry a pilot and a small load, together with a complete tankage of fuel and spare wheel, spare tank, tools and snow chains. The pilot occupied the starboard front seat, but an alternative arrangement for a second pilot was made in the port seat with dual controls. The tail fairing was a plywood monocoque structure attached at four points to the rear of the Jeep and cabin. Because consideration loads were transmitted through the fairing in some conditions of flight and in heavy landing, the Jeep was strengthened locally at the points of attachment. The twin-spar tailplane had trimming flaps on either side which were adjustable on the ground by means of turnbuckles. Large endplate fins were set at a slight angle in plain view to give incidence relative to the local airflow. Replacing the standard Jeep windscreen was a streamlined sheet metal framework with perspex sheets. The remainder of the cabin was built of plywood. Access doors with large perspex panels were fitted both sides. A hole in the cabin roof accommodated the pylon, with allowances for movement owing to the elastic suspension. In the cockpit a special dashboard on the starboard side contained an airspeed indicator, a rotor speed indicator, a sensitive altimeter and a turnand- slip indicator. A standard telephone system via the towrope allowed the pilot to communicate with the tug pilot, the amplifier and batteries being located behind the starboard seat. The Hafner Rotabuggy, camouflaged, carrying RAF roundels and a prototype “P”.
  5. Hi everyone, Here's my quickest built I ever did a few years back, took me 5 weeks, almost OOB except for the True detail pit. A very affordable hasslefree kit , hope you like. Dan. More to come... Dan.
  6. Hi there I finished this some 4 weeks ago and have not had the opportunity to photograph it. Now I can ruin a decent model in one click and as you can tell it's not my thing!. I bought this at Telford SMW 2017 and it was one of those I had to have it as I normally buy 2nd hand kits. It goes together quite well and I'm pleased although it's tiny in scale and I had doubts at the beginning but I have vowed to leave 1/48 to the experts, I simply find it too small to make it an enjoyable build. Anyway some crappy photos to humour you with. Ignore the base as it's 1/32 and the only one I've got. IMG_0612 by Stephen Priestley-Dean, on Flickr IMG_0611 by Stephen Priestley-Dean, on Flickr IMG_0610 by Stephen Priestley-Dean, on Flickr IMG_0609 by Stephen Priestley-Dean, on Flickr IMG_0608 by Stephen Priestley-Dean, on Flickr Thanks for looking Steve.
  7. Here it is, my first WIP thread on this site. I've been back in the hobby for a little over a year after a couple of decades layoff, and have been working in 1/48 exclusively and posting on FSM mostly. This will be my first 1/32 build, and I will be taking it slow since it's such a huge kit. I will be eventually painting and marking her up as one of the Amiens raiders from 464 Squadron. First picture is just the kit in box in my newly reorganized workspace. Also pictured is my brand new homemade spray booth. I think I'm going to start tonight and will post some pics once I begin. I have no hope to produce something of the same quality as some of the amazing threads I read on here, but I hope to have fun and learn a lot. I welcome any and all comments and criticisms - it's the only way to get better! Thanks for having such an inspiring and welcoming forum.
  8. Happy new year all. I've just acquired the Tamiya 1/32 Phantom F4j and am thinking of converting this to the UK version. I know that shortly after the Falklands war the UK bought 15 retired “off the shelf†F4j' s from the USAF. Any Phantom experts out there with advise on how much work would be involved to fo the conversation. Also any help sourcing RAF markings would be appreciated.
  9. Folks - did a search on the site here but didn't find the answer. A web search also turned up an amazing number of mixes and comments about what are the 'right' and 'wrong' colours... SOOO - my friends, what are the 'proper' colors for WWII Roundels for a Spitfire (I am assuming the colours were standardized, but just in case...) Mk IXc? I'm building 2 1/72 Spits and have decals, but am trying to practice using masks hence my question. I see lots of comments about decals having the wrong colours so rather than just trying to mix a match for the decals I thought I'd ping this knowledgeable community. Oh and also for the fin flashes. Assuming the same blue and red but better safe than sorry. Can't wait to see where this discussion goes! Chris
  10. So, this is my 3rd attempt at scratchbuilding a 1/32, aviation related vehicle. It has been in making for quite some time, but now it seems to come together rather well... I initially bought the new Airfix 1/48 Bedford MWD kit, to use as a guide for this build. 1.5 x 1/48 = 1/32 The chassis is scratchbuild using different parts from the spares box (engine, gearbox, rear axle) Fenders are made from milliput using a Humbrol paint jar as template... The grill on the bonnet sides, was quite a challenge, but after 3-4 trials I finally was satisfied with the result. Wheels are from E. Z. Models - Wheels for British trucks...
  11. I know this may be a stupid question, but when I was a kid, this Mustang was very popular in the UK thanks to the Matchbox 1/72nd Kit. At the time, Dooleybirds upper cockpit surround were always shades of blue. Nowadays though, they seem to be invariably yellow with an OD anti-glare shield. Is this based on anything concrete, or simply Back and White Photo translation? I can understand why the OD Glare shield is now common currency, but having seen this plane in profiles and models which have DF loops which the original did not have, I am just trying to figure out if there is anything definitive...
  12. Here's my Spit, which I began over two years ago, with an extended break in between... (The WIP is here) This was a kit of firsts for me: My first camo paint job My first use of aftermarket decals, resin, and photo etch parts It would be no surprise for me to report that it was a well engineered kit and any fit problems I may have experienced were of my own doing... Further, I was delighted for the most part with the resin parts, especially the engine rocker covers, the pilot seat, and the cockpit hatch... I am not sure I would purchase the cockpit add-ons, other than the photo etched control panel... The Barracuda Cast decals (stickers) were really quite excellent and settled onto the craft better than any decals I've used; however, they are tender and must be used a bit more carefully than OOB decals... Finally the Gator masks I used for the camo paint job were excellent too... I would grade my build performance from two different perspectives: From the perspective of the top builders on this site, I give myself a B-/C+, because so many of the Spits contain far more extras than I could imagine adding, plus they are far cleaner builds than mine... From my own personal capabilities and experiences, I give myself an A-/B+ for stretching myself on a build further beyond where I have ever been before... much of that stretching was a result of following so many excellent builds on this site... I really love epic builds and this was one for sure...
  13. Hi folks, I've been working on this little project for a while, my first injection moulded kit, subject the T31 training glider used for several decades by the Air training Corps gliding schools. I've done pretty much all the kit design, including decals, and have had several 3D printed sets of parts made to check assembly. I'll have these on show, with some CAD images, at the forthcoming ScaleModelWorld show at Telford. If you are there, do call by and have a look if you can. Scale is 1:32 so it will match the Revell glider kits, and a whole lot more besides! Kit will be injection moulded, as finely detailed as I can manage while keeping it sensible for moulding. Decals will cover a number of different colour schemes, and enough code characters will be included so you can finish the model as 'YOUR' aircraft. I should stress this is still just a kite flying exercise at the moment, but all the hard work is done on the design. I'll be showing progress so far at Telford with a view to assessing financial viability and interest, before looking at funding the tooling. More details shortly..... Tim Perry
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