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Nick_Karatzides

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Nick_Karatzides last won the day on February 16 2016

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About Nick_Karatzides

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    Hooked For Life

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    http://www.anyuta3d.com

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    Male
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    Valley of Death

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  1. @ D.B. Andrus, What you describe, already exists and is working! Custom 3D design, 3D producing under any possible scale & any requested material and shipping to customer's door step. Just like ordering pizza at home! On the other hand, since its' AlexM's thread here for his wonderfull home 3D printed 1/32 Marauder scale model, I think it's not proper (unless he has no problem about it) to present further details about online businesses - just like mine - doing exactly what you said.
  2. ...and that reminds me what I wrote 5+ years ago into this forum while building my 3D printed Salamadra glider, the first-ever 3D printed complete model kit presented online: "...We are in front of a new era for scale modeling. Anyone can have access to this CAD designing & 3D printing tool. But as you know, each tool may become 'useful' or 'useless', 'necessary' or 'nonessential', depending on the hand that operates it. What really concerns me, is not so much the introduction of 3D printers as a usefull application into scale modeling, but the possibility that some of the things we take for granted, might never be the same again. For example, it is very likely that the model kits you buy from your local hobby shop, will not continue exist in their present form any more. Have you ever thought, that future shopping will not include visiting your local hobby shop to pick your favorite model kit from the shelves? Have you ever thought, that it is likely to buy the 3D file online and later print it on our home 3D printer, wearing your 3D printed slippers & drinking your coffe into a 3D printed mug same time? Freaky huh?..."
  3. @ Thierry, The products you mentioned are 3D printed with the cheapest low-quality polyamide nylon material which is completely not suitable for scale modeling purposes. The final finish is too grainy, the 3D printing layers are too visible and material cannot be easily handled & sanded. I would not recommend for scale modeling use. Ofcourse, you can always ask the seller to produce items with better-quality and smooth looking plastic material, but you should keep in mind that purchase prices will climb high (due better material high cost of production)... @ Thunda, If I am not mistaken, these Ultimaker 3D printers you have in lab come with three different nozzles: A 0.80mm nozzle producing 600 micron layer, A 0.40mm nozzle producing 200 microns layer and A 0.25mm nozzle producing 150 microns layer. Isn't that correct? If so, even if using the more 'fine" 0.25mm nozzle, cannot give layer results better than 150 microns thick... which is very visible and too far away from the 16 microns (or less) result other 3D printers can produce. As I already guessed, it will take a lot of post-3D printing work to bring the miniature's surfaces to a satisfactory level of smoothness and you also confirmed on this by saying that any ridges will be dealt with by using high build primer and/or Mr Surfacer. This means that no panel lines or rivets can be pre-designed and pre-produced, because the post-3D printing work including sandpaper & high build primer / Mr Surfacer would cover them and everything need to re-scribed from zero. Correct? My friendly opinion (as long as the cost of 3D printing production can be justified as "expenses for educational purposes") is to try some high resolution 3D printing services instead of using the college lab machines - the cost may be higher, but the result will surely satisfy you. So, unless your Ultimaker 3D printers can produce a detail level like the following pictures, IF I were you I would use other 3D printer machines. If interested feel free to PM me to give you some data and let me propose some other material we also use for our miniature prototype production (material called VisiJet SR 200 and is used on high-precision & high-cost "ProJet HD 3000" machines - its a UV light cured acrylic polymer plastic material that can produce extremely thin details and layers as low as 16 microns only). Anyway (as already said), whatever machine / material you decide, I 'll be following this one with great interest and I'll be glad to watch the progress of your nice 1/32 scale Kawanishi N1K1J model. Regards, Nick / Anyuta 3D scale models 
  4. @ Thunda, An accurately designed 3D model is always a prerequisite for a good result, but we all need to keep in mind that no matter how accurate a 3D model design is, the final detail of the miniature depends on the quality of the 3D printer machine and material used. Maybe I am wrong, but I am afraid that these Ultimaker 3D printers and the recycled filament you are using there, are not the best option for a smooth 'n' nice finish on this 1/32 scale miniature. IMHO the layer lines will be clearly visible and it will take a lot of post-3D printing work to bring the miniature's surfaces to a satisfactory level of smoothness. The machines may be "just OK" for DIY projects and for reproducing sculptures addressing to forensic & medical students, but when it comes to scale modeling hobby the requirement for detail is different. Anyway, I 'll be following this one with great interest.
  5. @ AlexM, I am already following you on your 1/32 Marauder and your 1/32 PZL.37 3D printed projects too. The result of your 3D design & scale modeling skills are remarkable considering you are using not-professional software and low cost plastic. I am impressed and looking forward to see more. Congratulations.
  6. Meanwhile, the rotor blades for both versions attached on their rotor heads as described into the building manual (click HERE for the PDF formated file) through pages #88 to #94. Parts sprayed over with AK interactive AK768 primer to spot mistakes and prepare for paintjob. I did a visual inspection and shot some pictures. After overall primer, rotor blades dry fit tested to ensure that all individual components could be later combined together as an overall built model. I admit that it’s not easy to handle Kolibri scale model and find best angle for photoshoot on bench, while having the rotor blades (measuring approx 70 cm from one wingtip to the other) attached.
  7. Been long time since last visit, huh? Well, let's remember some hobby fun again. The objective is to build two different diorama scenes for two different versions of the same helicopter: One for the full fuselage version of the 1/18 scale Flettner Fl-282 V21 Kolibri model kit and, A second for the cutaway version of the 1/18 scale Flettner Fl-282 V21 Kolibri model kit. According to plan, both of them would include few additional features without distracting viewer's attention, keeping the Kolibri helicopter as the main protagonist of the story. Starting with the full fuselage version, the addition of a WWII era Luftwaffe's 200 litres fuel drum with a handpump attached, few 20 litres canisters and a filled bucket left on ground, seemed good idea to me in order to present a short refueling scene. Rivet counters may say that the presence of a 200 litres fuel drum right next to the helicopter may look unreal or “too much”. Well, considering that the twin seat Fl-282 V21 helicopter had two 25 litres cylindrical fuel tanks mounted externally on both sides of the pilot seat (while the main 105 litres fuel tank installed on previous versions removed to host observer’s rear seat), a number of only 2 or 3 fuel canisters could be just enough to do the job. I am not sure about the official refueling procedures followed by Luftwaffe for the Kolibri helicopter during operational conditions & which were the appropriate method followed by engineers & maintenance personnel. Did they park the Kolibri close to area where 200 litres fuel drums stored and later pumped fuel directly into helicopter’s tanks through a hose? Did they move (carrying on a truck / cart) the 200 litres fuel drums next to the helicopter’s parking area and later pump fuel inside tanks? Did they fill helicopter’s tanks with hand-carried smaller 20 litres canisters & funnels, brought from main fuel storage area, next to parked Kolibri? IMHO, all the above (and many others) sound quite possible scenarios. Since we all have seen WWII era pics showing airfield ground personnel using a big variety of methods, from operating Opel refueling trucks, to mule / donkey driven carts or poor maintenance personnel carrying 20 litres canisters by hands, I think that having few 20 litres canisters left into the diorama scene and same time a 200 litres fuel drum feeding the helicopter tanks directly through a hose, could be considered as realistic and not just an “artistic accepted” option.
  8. @ Stormer, Apologies for not mentioning earlier. I am talking about the RLM 63. To be accurate, I am talking about the RLM 63 v2 "LichtGrau" (because the RLM 63 v1 is the greenish "GrünGrau"). There are plenty of equivalent products made by different companies. Since I prefer Lifecolor's products, I find the UA113 close enough, but I also think that Model Master 2077 or Xtracolor X221 or Humbrol 127 or Gunze H308 etc, will also do the job just fine. After all, when modulation, weathering and fading effects are applied, it doesn't make much sense which exact company used - IMHO if it looks right, it is right. Just my 2-cent worth opinion of course. Btw, I don't know what grey paint used on Wackyracer's Kolibri, but it looks just fine!
  9. @ Ol' Scrapiron, These are not "intakes" or "tanks". These two curved tubes, are actually plywood-made covers of drive shafts located either side of the pilot's seat (check following pics taken from HERE). An easy trick to add weigh (regarding any tail sitting problem) is to place tiny metal rounds (lead pellets) used for bird hunting - you can find them easily in hunting shops, in bags (500gram, 1kg, 2kg etc) for hunters who make their own custom ammo. The smaller you choose, the best for the scale modeling hobby! Use the well known water-based white glue (for wood) to place them in hidden areas and leave them at least 24hrs to let the glue dry. Epoxy or CA super glue are not reccomended, because may effect the plastic (when applied too much) and face unpleasant surprises on warped plastic next day. So, where to hide the weigth? Where to place these tiny metal pellets? IMHO there are few places underneath Kolibri model that could host these tiny metal balls, but I think that best is into these "curved tubes" located either side of the pilot's seat. If there is anything else I could help, do not hesitate to ask. Regards, Nick / Anyuta 3D
  10. Call me bizarre, but I don't like making other people jealous
  11. As addition, I also send some sample pictures of the produced / 3D printed model kits.
  12. Although the Anyuta 3D team started very very very small, within few years became a multinational team composed of CAD designers and old fashioned scale model builders too. The last 3-4 years, we run a network of hand picked freelance CAD designers around the World and we forward to them 3D model orders to prepare the commision work we receive from our customers. Same time, a team of traditional scale modelers, figure painters & skilled craftsmen is also organised to build & paint as complete miniatures the 3D printed objects. Despite the fact I always enjoy designing myself and keep a first-person role on the 3D model building, after 2015 I decided to take a step back (for reasons that few fellow modelrs here already know) and assign parts of the huge workload on trusty associates (aka “Santa's helpersâ€) to run business easier, faster and get the work done more efficient. Today, I prefer most to have a general view of work and make the contact deal with customer factories & museums. I always try to inspire people co-operating with Anyuta 3D team to always try to keep ears and eyes open to learn new things. Critisism sometimes is part of the process to become better. Regards, Nick / Anyuta 3D
  13. Well, I am not in 3D design as many years as some fellow modelers here (I hear about people designing since 1990s). I may have few decades years experience as a traditional scale model (considering I built my first scale model when I was only 7yo), but the 3D is something new for me too and trying to do my best the last few years only. Since I am the co-founder of the Anyuta 3D team (founded almost 10 years ago originally operated solely on digital projects for use in industrial construction), on early 2012 I thought as good idea to expanded into the scale modeling too by designing & manufacturing complete scale models, after market kits and accessories for the modeller who seeks something different. Nowdays, our Anyuta 3D team has two basic branches: The main industrial design part and The retail shop part for average modelers. We create complete 3D printed model kits or partial 3D digital designs on behalf of international scale model companies to be used as master prototype miniatures and later get produced as injection molded model kits, available for sale into your local hobby shop. For example, have a look on the screenshots attached for some project CAD designed by our Anyuta 3D team as a commision work for well known international scale model companies - maybe you'll recognize the model kits found in hobbyshops too. As addition, we also provide custom work service for individual customers such as collectors & US and EU located military museums such as NASM, RAF halls, Deutsches museum, Merlin engines museum, DTM, etc. Finally, we keep online shop just for retail sales for the average scale modeler, with most reasonable prices.
  14. @ Zac, Keep in mind that MiniArt got three versions. The Kolibri V6 naval version already released as #41001 on their catalog, the cutaway version as #41002 on their catalog and the Kolibri V21 twin seater version marked as #41003 on their catalog. As we all know, they officialy announced the model kits, I know well they already produced few test runs, but I have no idea when they plan to public release the next Kolibri V21 twin seater (item #41003) and cutaway (item #41002) versions on hobbyshops Worldwide. I guess, they will also be accessible to average modelers within following months. For me, all of these three different versions (naval V6, twin-seater V21 and the cutaway one) are equally beautiful and must-have / must-build items, but as you know I cannot be impartial judge on this. Only fellow scale modelrs can confirm or deny if these Kolibri model kits are well designed, nicely produced and if they really worth money spent for purchasing (or not).
  15. @ Wackyracer, I am silently watching your nice building from day #1 and didn't want to interrupt you - just sent this message to prevent you doing some false painting. I hope it's not too late to fix. Regarding your question about the paint-chipped panels, YES these were made of plywood too (or fabric covered plywood). As you can see in following two pictures (sent by fellow modeler Thomas Mayer / Wurzacher who built the cutaway version of the 1/18 scale Flettner Fl-282 V21 Kolibri model kit and kindly published a review in LSP forums - check HERE and HERE) and also extensively described on my builing thread for 1/18 scale Kolibri model presentation almost 3-4 years ago, the fuselage was constructed from truss-type welded steel tube, covered with doped fabric. Also (to keep in mind for the rotor blades later) the rectangular outline with rounded tips rotor blades were made by tubular steel spar with riveted-on wooden ribs and plywood skin with fabric covering and axes of both rotors were angled outboard at 12° from the vertical. The horizontal stabilizer and a rudder fin also were made of plywood (riveted-on wooden ribs, plywood leading edge & fabric-covered). Rudder fin was made of wood and covered by fabric. The vertical stabilizer and the elevators were also made of wood, with plywood leading edge and fabric covering, bolted to fuselage frame. Despite the fact that there were some slight differencies between the V6 version you are building using the MiniArt 1/35 model kit and the V21 version built by fellow modeler Thomas Mayer, the general idea is the same. Only the tubular frame made of steel (and engine components ofcourse including rods for transfering controls from cockpit to engine and rudders) were metal. Any other part, was made of plywood, plywood covered with fabric or fabric only. For example, the opened engine panels and cockpit side & front covers on the following captured by US Army Kolibri V23 helicopter, are made of plywood or fabric on plywood frame. The helicopter in following pictures used to be Luftwaffe's CI-TW registration and later changed to FE-4613 when entered USAAF for evaluation flights conducted at Benedict airport at Booth Corners Pennsylvania, USA. The prefix “FE†on USAAF registration, meaning "Foreign Equipment". Actually, eveything is fabric and plywood riveted on the metal steel frame, in order to give an aerodynamic shape. Another detail that may be helpfull for you (regarding the fabric cover) is the following. A set of pics of a Flettner 282 helicopter parts (with balkenkreuz insignia on) cut out by WWII veteran US Army PFC Donald R. Nankervis who sent it to his home back in States as a War trophy. According to the instructions written on the back of the canvas, the item was "...taken from a German airplane stationed at Hittler's private airport at Ainring village between Teisendorf and Salzburg, Austria...". Nowdays Ainring airport museum officials, confirm that the Flettner 282 helicopters were actually stationed there at that particular time period (7th May 1945) and used by the 3rd Reich authorities to serve Berchtesgaden & Berghof residence - this makes the story plausible enough and quite convincing, as far as the Historical data and dates. On the other hand, I have some doubts because at that time, all Kolibri helicopters were supposed to be painted with the Luftwaffe's RLM Green / Light Blue colours and not the Kriegsmarine's Grey. I'm also puzzled as to why the US serviceman didn't cut out the entire stammkennzeichen marking, but I think that US soldiers were more interested for balkenkreuz & swastikas insignia trophies at this moment, because they symbolic represented the victory on the 3rd Reich. Possibly, the US troops didn't have in their mind that these items will become very valuable for collectors & scale modelers 70+ years later. Additionally, if the picture is genuine, it turns out that the British troops were not the only ones who vandalized some one-of-a-kind (at that time) aircrafts, just to show to their friends & family back home that they fought Germans. Anyway, the following pics are certainly valuable info, considering the rarity of helicopter's color photographs. I said "...do not follow MiniArt recomendation for the green stripe on grey camo as pictured on box..." because as far as we all know (unless someone surprisingly brings never-seen pictures and change the view we have up to date), the Kolibri V6 fuselage was painted with Kriegsmarine's Grey.
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