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I know I'm kinda late to the party here, but there's still plenty of time left. I just went and ordered myself some intake covers for this kit because I've read that there's a nasty seam in the engine/air intakes so those should be nice and covered now. I did mean to start this a couple of months ago, but I came down with the flu, then my gallbladder issues, then I had a penicillin allergy when I came home (broke out in itchy hives) and after all that, I got a sinus infection. On the up side I did win $2 on a scratchy lotto ticket, so hey things are looking better! Here she is. I picked it up second hand a couple of months ago and thought it would be good for this Group Build. Not sure which camo I'll do yet.

I’ve just picked up the Trumpeter English Electric second hand. I was wandering if anyone on here has built one and if so any comments to concerns with the kit? Also , What am bits might be worth adding? Any advise would be appreciated .

Having finished almost finished my revell P-51D, I decided to go for the Trumpeter Warhawk. Of course, the kit does have issues. After looking at the kit, 2 things strike me. One, the nose IS misshapen, already addressed is the side profile, with that huge bulge going front, but one thing no one seem to notice is that on top profile, the nose actually is wide. Second is the intake. Just. Ugh. Being a short tail, I needed to convert it to a long tail. So I got me a Grey Matter 1/32 Long Tail conversion, normally for the Hasegawa kit. I also got me the sprue for the exhaust panels from a 1/32 Hasegawa P-40E So I started by hacking off the exhaust panels, and grafted the hasegawa ones. Sanded the hell out of the nose. Literally paper thin. I placed in putty in the insides to strengthen up before I keep going. But I need your opinion guys. Here’s where I am now.

Just finished this one. This was on the shelf of doom for quite a while. I had purchased the kit for quite cheap and, due to the shape issues of the kit, it ended up being the last Bf 109 in my kit stash, so I figured I would go ahead and build it. However, I managed to destroy the canopy/windscreen parts before completion and also started to be really annoyed by looking at the shape issues, so I just shelved it. I finally decided to use a vac canopy from my spares and modify it to fit. I also sanded down the huge sharp corners that come off the trailing edge of the wing root fairing, into the rear fuselage. The fuselage cross section still leaves a lot to be desired, but this did improve the overall look of the fuselage, even if only slightly. But, don't even get me started on shape of the nose! In any case, I was able to complete it by adding the canopy mentioned above, MM enamels, oil and pastel weathering. The main decals were from the kit, but the unit/number markings were from a few different sources in my spares and represent an aircraft flown by 1./JG 2 around the Battle of Britain. I also added a few bits from scratch in the somewhat strange looking cockpit. In my rush to finish it, I introduced plenty of problems on my own, but the goal was to just finish it and then decide what I'm going to do next. I would really like to get into the Multi-Engine GB, but not sure what I'm going to do next. Anyway, I'm calling this one done (and I'm also likely done with Trumpeter, spare a couple of kits I already own that are from their "A team", which has apparently disappeared). Thanks for looking, John

Hi, i decided to show my new project which is older version of Thunderbolt. I will add Eduard etch for cockpit and cut out a panel on side to show guts behind engine. Trumpeter provided many interior goods so it's really a shame not to present them. Painting will be Pied Paper or Passionate Patsy, unfortunately Kagero done decals only for Bubbletop Patsy, so i have artwork only, without serial number on tail (problem) or code on side (smaller problem). Does anybody have photo of Razorback Patsy with 3 downed planes? I have seen model with that but have only photos where plane is without them. Seat is for P-400 Special Hobby but seems legit for P-47. I will need to repait it.

Cheers everybody, it's bee a while since I finished my big Prowler - buying a new background for my photo booth was a good opportunity to finally take some photos of the finished model. For those who haven't followed the build, here's the link to the WIP thread: https://forum.largescaleplanes.com/index.php?/topic/57040-how-to-destroy-an-expensive-kit-with-just-a-few-cuts-or-prowler33/ Photo quality is not ideal, I've been playing around with the photo settings but I am obviously not a good photographer... Anyway, comments, questions and critique are welcome as usual. "Beaker" waiting for the rest of the crew to board the aircraft.

My fascination with Soviet Cold-War military hardware continues unabated. The Hind is arguably the most iconic helicopter gunship ever conceived. Sure, it has been technically surpassed by now, but not before striking fear into the hearts of all who tried to run or hide from its near alien presence! Given the pivotal role the Mi-24 played in Afghanistan, it is hardly surprising that at the same time it would end up in another supposed Cold-War proxy - Angola. It was flown by Russians, Cubans and Angolans (and possibly even East Germans) during some of the most intense modern combat seen on African soil. As in Afghanistan, the American "Stinger" would prove to be a deadly opponent, as well as the Soviet's own RPG, but a little known South African weapon would prove to be the most deadly of its opponents. I was inspired to build this after seeing Malcolm Reid (a fellow South African) do a beautiful job with the Trumpeter kit. http://www.saairforce.co.za/forum/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=8917&sid=7b9f0cc308e989bd28f8621829bbaeb9 Malcolm mentions a couple of interesting shortcomings in his build, and I will try to address them in my attempt at this great looking kit. The first is a question of two and a half degrees. It seems too little to bother with, but if you look at the Hind a lot, it becomes very noticeable. I mentioned in my MiG-29 build that Misha had done a sterling job in correcting this, but I am going to try a short-cut to get the "twist". In these pictures you can see how the "cockpit" is offset from the rest of the fuselage, and it is most noticeable by the apex of the canopies not being in line with the centre of the engine intakes. When on the ground, assuming the oleo's and tyres are equally inflated, the main fuselage lists to starboard when viewed from behind. I will concentrate on theses two points. The kit's cockpit and cabin are pretty well represented, but as with most Trumpy kits, just need that little bit extra. The Eduard PE set is used as a base, and then fleshed out with some extra styrene bits. Some vents added to the ceiling and a bit of structure and wiring on the aft bulkhead. The front seat was given a parachute made with leftover PE and lead foil that golfers use - handy stuff. The rear seat was left as a bucket seat, and some extras added to the controls at the back. The door frame was thickened and detail added. the same will be required inside the canopy frames as the Mi-24 has sturdy framing throughout. The troop seating was a little basic, and flat - a little extra styrene goes a long way to improving the look. Kit buckles from the PE fret. Drilling out some of the overstated detail and adding wire guards is all that is required for these consoles. The space between the cockpit and the cabin is devoid of detail, probably because it can't be seen, but I couldn't stop myself! I'm sure you can make out the rest without any further explanation... I suspect that this area may present some challenges when it comes to painting Cheers, Sean

New little sideline project whilst waiting for paint to dry/things to arrive on the Liberator. Spent the afternoon assembling the railway gondola to check the He162 fitted!

Trumpeter's MiG-29A is a great model to build, and I'm sure the C will be too. Unfortunately it suffers from some shape issues, and in this build I set out to correct them. It took a while. Here is the build thread should you be interested: This is MiG-29G 29+04 in NATO colours, serving with "Erprobungsgeschwader MiG 29". I was drawn to the subject by the wonderful conflict of ideals it represents. The aircraft is a symbol of how the re-unification must have been in a way, wearing a cloak of Norm 90 J grey, but peeking out from underneath, the original radome colours, the green wheel hubs, and the uniquely Soviet shapes of the antennae. Some things can't be changed overnight. Most of the work went into correcting the shape of the forward LERX, and the bulges above the engines as well as the spine. The nose cone was slightly modified, as were the top and sides of the intakes. A lot of effort went into capturing the feel of panels and fasteners, which appear to make up a lot of this fighter. Some of the kit detail is superb as is. Although the underside is well represented in the kit, the wheel wells, gear legs and weapons pylons benefitted from a bit of extra detail, as did the airbrake/dragchute housing.

Well, it's the first weekend of March Break here in Canada so I thought I'd start something new. We'll see if I can get it done before the end of next weekend when the kids gonna k to school. I've decided to skip most of the AM on this build, hence the optimism about getting it done. Also because the ResKit rocket pods are damaged from shipping and unusable. I will however use the DN Models paint masks for the tiger stripes and canopies. Carl

Hi all! Late as usual, but here´s my build for the twin-einginge GB; It´s slightly started, tough. Here´s what I have done; …and there´s a LOT still left in the box; Hope it´s OK, I´d say around 25% done. To be continued… Cheers! Stefan

Guys, i'm back! This time not with something in 1/48 or smaller. That thing... It's the Trumpeter kit, my second 1/32 scale model, and it's quite huge It's so ever slightly bigger than the F-15 in lenght and even in wingspan, which impressed me a bit. Alright, let's do it. I plan a rather slow and longer build. Some may know very well the quality and what's in the box, but i'm gonna make a thorough review these days whatsoever. Here is just a quick glimpse: And of course, i'll take advantage of the AFV Club's tinted canopy, cause i think it's absolutely necessary for a good looking F-117. I cannot tint such a huge canopy by myself and not leave any trace of dust, etc. In 1/48 or less - it's ok because the little imperfections are almost invisible, but this one is one, enormous and two, with perfectly flat straight sides. I'll also use the GTR Wheel set that i didn't use in my F-15E. The kit tires are from very hard rubber and quite small in size. I have the original dimensions of the plane's tires and did the quick measurements. The GTR tyres are perfect. Only the front tyre is a bit smaller in diameter so i might still use the kit's rubber tyre for the nose wheel. And on the other hand, i know that the F-117 had just about the same avionics as the F-18 and just about the same landing gear as the F-15, so that's the perfect moment to use the gorgeous GTR tyres and wheels. And finally, the extra PE screen for the FLIR and DLIR. This is obligatory as well, because the provisions for these sensors are huge. I did a little mistake though by getting the 4x6 screen mesh in believing that the holes are rombs. Yeah, they are rectangulars... i couldn't notice that on the photos and this is my firt time using such a PE screen. Nevertheless, i think i can place the screen at an angle so they can look as rombs. I plan to start from the landing gear and make everything moveable again, for "2 models in 1" - in a parked and in-flight mode. The canopy, the gear, all the control surfaces and the bomb bays will close/open. As for the airframe - i have no idea yeat, but i think it will be one of the early Nighthawks, something Desert Storm-related in a full stealth mode with all the lights and antennas retracted and without the two RCS enhancers on the sides. Quite weathered as well. I'm only looking for a pilot figure and if i cannot find any, i plan to get the F-16 resin figure+seat set by Aires. But i'll wait on that one yet. Nighthawk!

A job has been on and off for 2 months since June 2018. It's one of my satisfied work in my personal US Naval Air Force builds. I have added the smoke on the photos and called it Visual Diorama.

After completing the second of the two P-47D, I couldnt help myself with the title of this post :-) This aircraft is 42-75242 which was flown by Capt Michael Quirk flying for 62nd FS/56th FG, Halesworth. Now the two Jug's together...... Jug #2 can be seen @ Thanks for looking at me Jugs

Started on the 9th of December... Every year I try to do a 'clear the bench' build over Christmas, this year it was this one: Not sure why folks seem to shy-away from the Trumpy 109E kits almost all the completed ones that I have seen here are from the Eduard and Dragon kits. Ahh well... I thoroughly enjoyed every minute of this one. Perfect fit everywhere, lots of detail, excellent etch, decals and phenomenal clear parts. (not so excellent rubber tyres tho'). For a change I broke-out my enamels for the 74/75/76/04 colours, all of which I mixed using my preferred Mk.I eyeball method. Highly recommend this to anyone contemplating a 1:32 build and perhaps a wee bit put-off by the excessive parts-count and cost of some of the 'uber kits' around just now - I got this off a well-known on-line auction site from a Chinese based seller for just £16.50 !!!!! (that's as good as giving it away) even down here to NZ the postage was just ten-quid. So here t'is all done only addition is the kit specific Eduard Zoom set which includes the harness too; And I have to admit that I'm very pleased with it. Please feel free to hurl any criticism, ask any questions or make any comment at all. Thanks for taking the time to look and Happy 2019 to all here. Ian.

Happy new year to the modelling world and builders!! This is my 1/32 Trumpeter P-47D Razorback with the Kits-world War Birds decals used. This kit went together well, even though there a few minor instruction issues, but nothing major to overcome. Painted with MRP paints...……….which are highly recommended! Built out of the box other than the decals. A bit about the man:- 2Lt Paul Ellison who was shot down by flak on 17th July 1944 while flying "Tipsy". After taking off from Picauville he was hit by flak just after bombing the bridge at Conde-sur-Vire. Bits of the wing started to fall away and Ellison bailed out at about 1000ft. He evaded capture and returned to military control on 2nd August. Now the machine......well, my version of it :-) Hope you like it, id like some feedback on the prop as I tried for the first time, the salt weathering technique it simulate some weathering on the prop. Thanks for looking, all comment are welcome

this is my entry for the group build I whant to do it longer to build a diorama so now it will be a good time to go for it the idee came when i whas surfing the net for info when i found this pic so i wil try to make this what i have so far this wiil be long term but we have a year i can work on the armour for distraction because there is a lot to do to convert the mi-17 most importend thing just having fun Mark

Hello everyone, my name is Woody and I’m a rivet counter. Before we get started, a little more about myself. I started building models “seriously” in the late 80s, but building a business doesn’t leave time for much else so the last time I actually finished one was back in 1996. Keeping in mind that I’m now 72 with cataracts developing (surgery is scheduled) and hands that are slowly turning into boxing gloves - onto the build. The Wildcat would never have been something I would choose to build, but in the course of developing our line of aircraft rivet sets I figured it would be a good choice for no other reason than it’s small. My opinion of the F4F was probably typical of what most people who know little about them thought, but after I started researching the plane my opinion changed considerably. That fighter, and the pilots who flew them during the darkest days of WWII proved to be up to the task of holding the line until the Corsairs and Hellcats became operational. The Wildcat’s contribution to victory in the Pacific may be a footnote but it’s a BIG footnote. I always start with the engine and promptly screwed up my first attempt so bad I had to buy another kit, which is usually the case for me - for that very reason. Regardless, I got that together without any major disasters and even wired it with .010” lead wire used for wrapping fishing lures and stuck one of our generic placards (not visible in this picture) on the case. Exhaust is Ammo Track Wash over AK Extreme Metal Steel. Not sure about the gloss black…. things like this happen when you use “restored” aircraft pictures for reference. Having survived that, it was on to the cockpit and wheel well. Since I had already gone off my original intent of building OOTB by wiring the engine I decided to make a set of cockpit placards and instruments which we now sell. I guess it turned out okay especially since almost none of this is visible once installed, but I developed a serious dislike of acrylics in the process. I’ve always used enamels and found out the hard way that my technique for chipping and weathering simply doesn’t work with acrylics. Okay, lesson learned and more on that later. Ignore that "interior green" on the instruction sheet, the correct color is bronze green. Then it was on to riveting the fuselage. First order of business was filling the recessed kit rivets which slowed down my progress considerably. At first my plan was to use diluted Tamiya putty. Thinking this would be quick and easy I thinned it out and filled every rivet hole. I was feeling pretty sure of myself until I started sanding and realized no one in their right mind could ever suffer through this mind numbing process. I had to find a better way so it was back to the “lab” where I came up with a way to fill the kit rivets with minimal to no sanding. For the sake of brevity, I’m not going to go into details on the process of making the filler or the actual process of filling the kit rivets here - it’s all outlined in our manual which you can download HERE. You have to break eggs if you want to make an omelette. Some tests. With the kit rivets filled in I highlighted the panel lines with a #2 pencil sharpened to a chisel point. This is a great help getting the rivets on straight and an even distance from the panel lines. Once that was done I shot a coat of Aqua Gloss over the parts, but I’m not sure this is entirely necessary. Kit rivets filled and panel lines highlighted. At this point I figured that it would be a lot easier to rivet the kit parts prior to assembly leaving off the ones where I would be sanding. As of this writing I don’t know if this is a good idea or not, but I can honestly tell you that during the entire process the rivets never gave any hint of coming off. I also learned about Gunze Mr. Mark Setter… this stuff is outstanding because it has adhesive properties. To avoid having to keep it mixed by shaking it frequently I just put some in a paint palette. You don’t need much; I use a micro brush to put a series of small drops along where the rivets will go to keep it from puddling and running. As for setting solutions, I use MicroSol, Solvaset and Mr. Mark Softer and can see no obvious difference between them. Don’t be stingy with the setting solution - slather it on. I started at the bottom of the fuselage halves to get the feel of working with the rivets figuring these would least likely to be seen and by the time I got to the more visible areas my skills would have improved, which they did. Frankly, applying the rivets is surprisingly easy - much easier than working with PE. Yea, it’s tedious as hell but other than that it’s just a matter of time. Call it therapy. Again, for the sake of brevity here, detailed rivet application instructions are in the manual which you can download HERE. Starting to apply rivets Both sides finished. (Ignore the turn lock fasteners on the cowling for now, we’ll get to those in the next installment.) I started with the longest continuous runs and I think that works best. After I had all those laid in I filled in the gaps with individual pieces rather than long pieces over the others which would result in rivets on top of rivets and irregular spacings at the intersections. I also ignored much of the kit rivet placement for several reasons too technical to get into here. Let’s just say that my four years in the USAF as an Airframe Repairman is a curse. We can stop here for now so if you have comments or questions we can deal with those before proceeding.

here is a kit that we do not see much, it is under finishing for the moment : voila, there is still a lot of work to finish it

CLICK HERE to view and/or buy $12.95 Shipping: $2.70 U.S, - $9.95 elsewhere Includes tracking and insurance. Sheet contains placards and instruments that fit the kit parts with minimal modifications. Because these are dry transfers (applied wet) there is no clear film so the placards fit over and around kit details precisely. Comes with highly detailed illustrated placement instructions which show where the placards and instruments are to be placed on the kit parts. This product is not intended to be a doctoral thesis on Wildcat cockpits. This product is intended to produce an impressive cockpit using only the kit parts with some minor modifications. Photos of test shot Also, we have three new releases for 1/16 Panther tanks so if you know of anyone who may be interested they are listed on our home page HERE Thank you! Woody

Hello all! Having recently purchased the 1/32 Trumpeter MiG-21 MF kit, I started to compare it with my 1/48 Eduard MF, just to see if fuselage dimensions were similar after enlarging them 150%. I noticed the front fuselage was off and turned to a good scale plan and published dimensions of the fuselage length. The plan is from Wings and Wheels Publications and more dimensions came from the Docavia #33 on the MiG design bureau and has much information. Photos show the problem. The nose is short 8mm. It also looks shrunken. The error is all in the front fuselage starting at the dark vertical pencil line. The airbrake is OK, but the auxiliary air intake below the leading edge is 4mm too far back, and all ads up to 8mm total. I decided to check the diameter of the intake opening and found it also too small. The diameter should be 870mm, or 27.2mm in 1/32. This is represented by the circle drawn in the center of the photo. on the right is the same circle with the diameter of the Trump part drawn within it to show the difference easily. I wonder if anyone has noticed this before and if so, what you may have done to correct this, as it does seem to me to make a difference in the look of the finished model. Thank you in advance for your observations and remarks! Alain

Looks like Trumpy are catching up with some of their back catalogue... http://www.trumpeter-china.com/index.php?g=home&m=article&a=show&id=139&l=en P-40F out this Autumn. Does that mean the F-100F isn't far behind? Tony This will be edited to activate the link

I am feeling some strong urges to tackle the Trumpeter A6=A in USMC Vietnam-era colors (land-based or carrier-based is equally OK). Can one of y'all provide a list of all the AM things I should include? Spare no detail. Thanks in advance.

I go away on an extended break from work to enjoy the early months of our first child. I return to the studio to find my prized and treasured labour of love that used to be Trumpy's behemoth 'Flanker' in many many pieces. Vertical stabilisers.....snapped, 1 intake.....3 pieces, port side undercart......snapped, no aerials, missiles and rails.....missing, canopy......non-existent, ejector seat.....disappeared. I'm torn with what to do. Do I write it off and salvage what I can for a new effort, or do I attempt a crash diorama?

OH yeah Baby...... Was hopping that one for a long time, everything was there, all the hardware, bell and wissel etc. but didn't feel the drive... Then there was my calling....lol ., that GB suggestion came up, and notice that perfect Angolian built a week ago.... Gonna go with everything or almost, from the Trumpet kit, Linden Hill decal sheet, the hole Aires package (pit, wheel and Exhaust) Quickboost scoops / spoilers, Aero discharge and maybe with a pilot..... also did put my hand on some Cutting Edge Atoll missile.. don't know if they ever used them but will find out. In the next few days, will definitly gonna go true Madmax Angolian WIP for some interesting ideal, but as always want to keep it a simple build and have fun first. Don't get far... Dan.