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  1. Hi everyone, Having eventually completed the F-4E, the desire to actually assemble a model rather than admire the contents has returned. The subject of the next labour of love is the old Revell F-15 which I am going to attempt to construct as its 'B' version. I'm not sure why I've gone for another Revell kit other than they are relatively cheap in comparison to the alternatives and this one is nearer to a B than converting say the Tamiya E (I also have some spare parts for this kit if I screw something up!). That said I will inevitably blow this reasoning out of the water by buying more aftermarket stuff than I need and adding stuff like lights that will turn it from 'easy and cheap' to 'challenging and expensive'. The other challenge will be making a mono-chromatic paint finish look real. So here's the kit in question: I understand that the shape is good but it lacks some of the Tamiya detail. As I have a Tamiya C I'm going to try and read across any additional detail that looks ok. I also have Jake Melampy's excellent book on the F-15 and some internet piccies though this version will be an early 70's jet so references are a bit thin on the ground. My initial hit list will include: - Revised cockpit based on the Aires A model pit - Escapac sets (kit has Aces version) - Revised engine exhausts as the kits ones are pretty plain - Added rivet detail - this kit has none - Added detail where the vents are - Added crew (the kit has none) - Alternative sidewinder launch-rails where no weapons are carried - kit ones are pretty crude - New formation lights - Aim-9J drill rounds Feel free to offer any steers on where else I mighty need to go. Please bear in mind that my work-rate is inversely proportional to home command commitments so don't expect a quick turn-round! Thanks for watching.
  2. Hi all!! This time I´ll revisit an older kit that never got completed. Actually, It´s far less then 25% so well qualified for a new GB. It´s Revells (Germany)´s schmitt from a few years ago and as I still suffer from a bad case of AMS I will add some additional goodies. Not that the kit requires or need it, but because I want to! A few Barracuda-sets, New cooler, prop (spinner and blades), a little assembly-jig for the prop, Master Gun barrels, Eduards Brassin gear and wheels. Not all will be used here, but I present the bits and pieces as the build continues. Seatbelts from HGW and a joystck from Quickboost; Decals from Eagle Editions, but I can´t find a picture, will show it later, but it will be a Desert Machine. I started the build in the cockpit, where else would one start a kit??? The Cockpit glued together….. One thing that bugged me in this kit was how Revell have made the landing gears, they look so weak. So when Eduard released their Brassin metal gears, I just had to have them! I didn´t like the seat either so I got one from the Baracudacast range, seatbelts and the whole rear bulkhead was included! Here I am now, some subassemblies done and soon ready to paint. I really hope I´ll get the kit done this time! More to come soon! Cheers! Stefan
  3. Hello, After having worked for a loooong time on the Revell 1/32 Fw 190 A-8 I needed something else to get my mojo back. The Fw 190 A-8 is almost ready for paint, but when I went over the fuselage rivets again to prepare the surface for painting, the glue joints of the cockpit broke and the cockpit got detached. Fortunately not on all sides so that I can push it up again from the bottom, but that incident vaporized my motivation for a while. So hopefully a fresh start will bring the motivation back. This time it is my favourite WW2 aircraft, the Me 262. I opted for 'White 17' W.Nr. 110958 of III./EJG 2 at Lechfeld for a number of reasons: 1) it is a very well documented bird, 2) there exists a color photo, 3) it had a very interesting camouflage with a nose section that came from a different aircraft (the nose tip appears to be from a 3rd aircraft). The Revell kit has great details out of the box. I wanted to use the kit parts for the cockpit as I don't like Eduard's color printed P/E approach as it is too flat and it depicts a blind flying panel for a very late production variant that had a single-axis auto pilot and required a large repeater compass. Unfortunately, they don't offer resin parts anymore like they did for the Fw 190. The kit part is very good except that instrument layout is that of a early production model and has a cabin pressure gauge that was never installed in serial production aircraft (only in some prototypes or aircraft for testing): Around the end of 1944, there was an effort to simplify the Me 262, the so-called 'Entfeinerung'. It is even mentioned in the cockpit overview of the pilot's manual, but I have also copies of wartime Messerschmitt documents that prove this. Very late production aircraft did not have the two differential pressure and oil pressure indicators anymore, just the fuel gauges and fuel pressure indicators and the two rpm indicator. W.Nr. 110958 was built around January 1945 and still had the differential pressure and oil pressure gauges. There exists immediate postwar footage of the cockpit of W.Nr. 110426 (captured by the Russians) and I own an original immediate postwar photo of the cockpit of W.Nr. 110836 that I use as reference for the required changes: - Remove the cabin pressure gauge (left of the SZKK2 round counter box) - Remove the indicators for the MK 108 underneath the SZKK2, the holes were sometimes left open or covered by a sheet of metall or fabric - Remove the fuel warning indicators (again, the holes were sometimes left open or were covered) - Remove the Junghans watch on the left side of the cabin pressure gauge as they were very rarely installed (in most cases the opening was left open) - The casings of the ASI and rate of climb indicator on the backside are too short and needs to be replaced with longer casings The second thing I wanted to correct was the relatively crude ZSK 244 bomb fusing auxiliary panel that was fitted to almost all the Me 262 As except for the recon versions and the ones (retro)fitted with R4M rockets. The ZSK 244 front plate is quite good, but the panel is flat and doesn't correspond to the original at all. The original had an angle of 15 degrees vs. vertical so that the pilot could better see and operate the instrument. Here are two photos of the original part: I constructed one from scratch using the dimensions of the original and photos as reference. The only part from the kit I used was the front plate of the ZSK 244. I had to carefully sand the kit part to the appropriate thickness. It was a lot of work, but now I am happy with the way the instrument panel looks. Next is painting. Roger
  4. As part of some upcoming large scale, 3D-printed aircraft cockpit upgrade designs, very happy to announce a model of the World War Two-era "Set, Complete Radio 522-A" ("SCR-522-A") used by the US Army Air Corps, Royal Air Force and Royal Australian Air Force. In RAF and RAAF service, this radio set was known as the TR.5043. This model is available in 1/32 and 1/24 scales. Other scales are possible. Often referred to as a "Signal Corps Radio", the SCR-522-A was installed aboard many aircraft types. For example, the SCR-522-A was a conspicuous feature of the P-51D and P-51K Mustang fighters, installed behind the pilot's armored seat back and visible through the bubble canopy. Very soon, we will be releasing a highly detailed, 3D-printed cockpit for the classic Revell 1/32 scale Bristol Beaufighter (see posts below). Click here for the Model Monkey products in 1/24 scale and 1/18 scale Click here for Model Monkey products in 1/32 scale. Click here for the Model Monkey catalog.
  5. Hi all! It's been a very long time since I last posted in the forum but have been working on a project following my botched attempt on Trumpeter's MiG-21UM. And I was finally able to complete it this week! I would like to present to you my build of Revell's 1/32nd kit of the Fw 190 F8. This is probably the most challenging project I've done to date due to the number of aftermarket resin sets I added as well as the research I did on the particular aircraft. It was also my first attempt at fully riveting a model. The aftermarket sets I used include Eduard's resin cockpit, engine, fuselage gun bay and propeller, ResKit wheel, HGW fabric seatbelts and a combination of Cutting Edge and EagleCal decals. The Cutting Edge decal set was the one that inspired me to start this project as I found the overpainted fuselage number feature quite attractive. However, the painting instructions were simply wrong. Eventually, I discovered that Montex Masks offer the same scheme with the correct paint guide which I cross-referenced with pictures of the real aircraft I found online. Painting was done almost exclusively with MRP paints and weathering with Abteilung 502 oils and MiG Ammo and AK Interactive pigments. This makes build #2 and most likely the last one for 2021! Hope you like it!
  6. Hello friends! I finished my He-162 model from Revell. I used Aires cockpit, Quinta studio 3D decal and True details wheels. R4M rockets from Ef-126 Das Werke kit. I use Gunze and RC colours for camo, LP Tamiya and Alclade for "metal" surfaces. I used Ucshi van der Rosten wooden decals for "wood surfaces". Regards, Sergey Budyansky.
  7. Greetings colleagues! I hope you are safe and sound during these difficult times! Let me take part in this event. I have 1/32 Revell He-162 with a few additions, like: Aries, Quinta 3D decals (just in case) and wheels from True details. I think, that it will be "what-if" camouflage... not shure for now... Thank you, and sorry for my english.
  8. Well, let's make it clear I'm not gonna make fuselage longer and wings bigger Also, I have no chance to buy conversion set. This one will be OOB, with resin seat and custom NASA decals As you can see, there is a pile of innacurate plastic and I hope there will be an innacurate model in the end Here are my only AM things At first, I wanted to make a space fighter out of it but this GB convinced me to make it OOB. So I have to bing it back to normal state. I had trouble finding part where parachute is but surprise, surprise it was in scrapbox
  9. This build was VERY lucky to see the light of day, almost gave up on it quite a few times, but happy to say, it made it to completion (after 2 years on and off) and not the final flight against the wall Base kit is the Revell ju88A-4, wish I'd had the A-1, would have saved me a lot of hassles, especially in the cockpit area/rear glazing to fuselage fairing. Fit of the kit wasn't the greatest, plastic was quite pebbly and soft. Not totally satisfied with the end result, but here she is! With a HUGE shout-out to @Pastor John from AIMS, people like him and others, keep us modellershappy! Ju88C-6 with Fug 202 of 4./NJG100 on the Eastern Front Revell Ju88A-4 AIMS Ju88C-6 "Nachtjager" Resin conversion set AIMS Decals "Ju88 Fighters" AIMS Luftwaffe Gun Sights AIMS Ju88A-1 Tail Wheel bay Eduard Brassin Main and tail wheels and cockpit details Owl Fug 202 antenna Master barrels Profimodeller Main wheel bay detail set HGW seatbelts and a TON of scratch-building! All paints Gunze laquers
  10. I will join the GB a 109G-6 in Swiss air force markings. I had ditched the flimsy box shortly after purchase but it is still unstarted. The content of the box and the aftermarket I have for it, with some more on the way. I will make a start this week-end but I am trying to finish the MH-60S I had started for the Navy GB, which stalled due to a combination of Summer holidays, extremely poor instructions and lack of knowledge on the subject matter. I finally got to the painting stage and cannot wait to be done with it. Cheers, David
  11. Here is my first RFI on the site, proof that I actually have built some models more to come at later stages as I get pics taken. This aircraft is a Bf109G-14/AS from 4./NJG11 (or 5./NJG11 depending on sources). SAM Publications Modellers Datafile "The Messerschmitt Bf109 Part 2 'F' to 'K' variants has an image of the aircraft found in a hangar at the end of the war on page 55 of that book as well as a colour side-view on page 93. Some would have this as possibly a G-6/AS variant, but in my research the presence of the larger Fo987 oil cooler which is quite evident on the image puts this as a G-14/AS, as the G-6's used the smaller Fo870 oil cooler. But hey, I might be totally off the mark! I used the AIMS Decals "Late war 109's" decal sheets as a basis to cut my masks for all the insignia. Parts List: Revell Bf109G-6 "Late and early version" A.M.U.R Reaver Resin cowling and spinner/prop blades Barracuda Studios resin wing inserts, large oil cooler, tall tail wheel, MLG wheels AIMS Late war 109 decals (basis for masks), exhaust stacks, hatches and latches(to modify the filler cap locations for this a/c) HGW Rivet/control surfaces set (for Hasegawa, bit of fettling to make it work on the Revell kit), seatbelts and Bf109 stencil set OWL Fug217 antenna and exhaust stack covers (all now sadly OOP). Some Fug 217 were SB to replace broken parts Master Brass barrels Eduard Instrument panel and Brassin U/C legs Quickboost Revi C/D gunsight MDC Drop tank and centreline mount/braces Noy's Miniatures Luftwaffe Hangar for the photo's All paint/markings/spirals - Gunze Laquers. RLM76 overall Might be a bit more small things I've forgotten about, but hope you all enjoy Thanks for looking Iain
  12. I've always liked the '162, it's a pretty sleek looking jet. It appears that it was a rather good aircraft to fly, with Eric Brown noting that it was manoeuvrable and fast. If it wasn't for the fact that dodgy glue led to parts falling off them, sometime with fatal consequences, it might have been an excellent fighter. Another short coming was it's limited fuel endurance. The Revell kit appears to be basic, but nice enough. I haven't decided on a French of captured Air Min aircraft yet. I also transferred the plastic to a better box as the Revell side opening ones are not the best.
  13. Hi everyone, Sadly I have to report that my hands are wreaked, in particular my dominant right hand. The Carpal tunnel op has not helped and it is the surgeons opinion that the Median nerve has been crushed for far too long. I am hoping to get an appointment with a university professor dealing with nerve regeneration but no news so far. I have enough strength to cast using much softer silicone moulds than before but the packing / folding / using computer is the killer. So I am back but slow, less hours and in lots of pain. So that is that I do what I can for now. So.... I have just sent off to Hannants 18x PR IV/1G and 30x PR XI sets which wiped me out of the PE component parts and the next PE stock will be here by mid November. If you can get from Hannants great but if you want to pre-order direct from myself the PR IV/1G set is £29.00 and the PR XI set is £34.00. Sorry but you would not believe the costs involved. To order email me at aimsmodels1@gmail.com thanks My special thanks to Thierry for his patience and excellent achieve material without which the finer details of these complicated birds could not have been achieved. My special thanks also to Tore Martin for without his excellent work on the canopies we would not have these vacform designs perfect to scale One or two decal options may interest you on my AIMS sheet 32D025 but if you ever got the PR sets from Alister you will remember that you also have excellent decal spares in the AllyCat sets. I will so another Monotone Spitfire sheet as and when I am in less pain. Thanks everyone
  14. After the pink panther I found this bird in the same book This set a flame to model it as the image is in colour and I have done a PRU blue bird yet. Having secured 2 more Revell IXc boxings I pulled one out and set about working out the best way forward. I then turned to our forums for more inspiration and help and discovered this thread and comments. Has anyone tried the Alleycat Spitfire PR.XI conversion?? So now ordered said set from AlleyCat and awaiting its arrival, but also dug out a Revell Mk.IIa kit as well on MikeC thoughts. Now I really enjoy birds with unusual camo and markings so a Vc from Malta is a perfect buddy for the PR. Now to the scary bits... The Grey Matters wrap round canopy doesn't touch the sides in the IX fuselage, not even close, BUT its much closer in the Mk.IIa fuselage as this has the earlier more rounded screen. The Mk.Vc spits only had the later canopy so a perfect swap of fuselages EXCEPT they are different length due to the changes in engines, but are the same profile from the engine firewalls back. Deep breath and Razor saw out... Side by side First cut is the deepest Joined Pretty chuffed with outcome. Just need to find a juicy Malta scheme for the Vc now. BTW the wings mixed up are a perfect fit, so other than a little rescribing for the PR non gunned wing and drilling the cannon ports on the Mk.II lower section we are looking good.
  15. Afternoon all, I thought I'd have a bash as the relatively new Super Bug from Revell. Yes, I've heard all of the horror stories, but it can't be that bad, can it? Work has begun on the main undercarriage bays and engine intake ducting - all given a generous covering of insignia white and a light wash to bring out, what is in my opinion, some lovely and fine detailing: The various formers were added to the bays and the forward and rear bulkheads needed a firm clamping to ensure everything stayed true whilst the glue set: What has become apparent quite early on is the fact that you need to follow the instructions to the letter, as some test fits have shown tolerances are very tight and the slightest misalignment will end in problems... More updates as and when the mood takes. Tom
  16. Happy to announce a World War 2-era British 18-inch Mk.XV torpedo is now available in 1/32 scale. Commonly launched from Bristol Beaufighter maritime strike aircraft and motor torpedo boats, the Mk.XV was the standard airborne torpedo used by British and Commonwealth forces in the latter half of the war. The Mk.XV was a "wet-heater"-type torpedo, 206.7 inches (525.1 cm) in length, 17.69 inches (44.9 cm) in diameter, delivering 545 pounds (247 kg) of Torpex explosive at 40 knots. In 1/32 scale, the model is 16.4 cm long.
  17. Admin/Moderators, please move to correct area if this isn't appropriate place. I’m really wondering if I need to clear out some of my stash of older kits. I know most the old Revell 1/32 kits date from the 60s and have been reissued several times AND by and large been eclipsed by far better kits. The only one I’m not sure about is the Revell Hurricane Mk I. IIRC, the molds were modified to produce the cannon equipped version Mk II. Is that right? I have fond memories of building the Corsair, P-40, P-47, Typhoon, Spitfire Mk I, Wildcat, Stuka and Zero and maybe others…and may even build the P-40 as a lark as I remember it being a decent looking model…despite being an E in AVG markings. What about the SBDs? Former Matchbox IIRC. Neither opened, but expect them to be of the same era and lacking as badly as the P-47 and P-51B. Same with the P-38J kit. Having the Trumpeter, I doubt I’ll build one and don’t need two. On the old Hasegawa and Hasegawa/Minicraft kits, they are largely of the early seventies. Are the old M-109E and Fw190s decent kits? I’m not much of a German a/c builder, though thinking these might be good projects to learn on. While improvements over the Revell kits, are they reasonable accurate or do they have major shape/fit issues? I think the 109G14 is a much later and better kit. Is that true? I found a 2002 date on it versus 60/70s on the others. How does the Zero compare to the Revell? What about the Oscar? These were is sealed clear poly bags I didn’t want to open so hard to compare. I certainly have a surplus of Hasegawa P-51Ds and will be shedding some of them. im working my way through Scalemates looking at various boxing’s and original tool dates. At the moment, nothing is for sale or trade, but some soon will be once I get educated a bit more. I acquired many of these from a good friend who was a retired USAF F-106/F-15 pilot and retired FedEx Captain. He died in a small plane crash a couple of years ago and his wife gave me all his kits which accounts for me having multiples. Nothing is up for sale or trade at the moment. I will list it here first when I decide what I'm doing with which kit and gauge if there is any market for these or if postage will be more than they are worth. I am hanging on to my new Hasegawa P-47s (3). I would appreciate your feedback. H-278 and 04781 H-296 and 04722 Both 04711 4749 and H-280 H-283 and H-279 H-295 and H282 (two) H-217 JS-060 and JS-073 JS-070 and JS-060 JS-086 x2 and (not shown 1086 x3) Both JS-060:400 JS-073 and ST18:4200
  18. Kit - Revell Paint - All Tamiya acrylics. Decals - Kit & HAD Extras - Yahu pre-painted IP, Eduard pre-painted harness. Various wiring, junction boxes etc from scratch. Been a couple of years since my last 1:32 build (a Trumpeter 109E), no particular reason just other shiny things grabbed my attention. Not going in to any detail at all about the history of this particular machine, it's very well documented, as for the build, well it's a 'curates egg' of a kit - good points: well the undercarriage bays and gear detail are superb enough to keep most folks happy, but I added all sorts of wiring and junction boxes up inside which may never be seen but I know they're there. The cockpit is very good and didn't really need the Yahu IP that I added, purely because sausage fingers and middle-aged eyesight mean I can't get that sharpness that I once did by hand-painting. I expected the fit of the engine nacelles to be utterly horrid but I'm pleased to report that on my kit at least they were pretty close to perfect. KIt decals were put to one side except for all the stencils which worked fine for me. I'm not a fan of RoG Instructions but these were OK with only the one blunder which most builders will have heard about so not going to repeat it here. Bad points:- It may have been just my kit but I spent a shed-load of time, effort and putty blending the various nose sections together, the fit was very '1980's' if you get what I mean, most of the reviews out there don't mention this, but then most are of the earlier two-seater kit so maybe there's a difference in QC. The underside join between the front of the lower wing and forward fuselage still isn't right to my eye, but I was running out of patience at that point - so I admit to getting it to 'that'll do' as opposed to 'yeah that's spot-on'. Paint is all Tamiya acrylics mixed using the Mk.I eyeball method, aircraft specific decals are HAD, first time using this company and the quality, opacity and adhesion is simply astonishing. So that's it, there's a few 'user errors' in the build including having to scratch-build a new slat as the carpet monster got a hold of one, also I thinned the undercarriage pegs a little too much so it's prone to wobbling on it's legs, but I really like it, and it has a shed-load of presence sitting in my cabinet. Please feel free to ask any questions, make any comments or criticism. All the best from NZ. Ian. (edited - hopefully the photos show now)
  19. I'd been looking for this kit and happen across one at the LHS, second hand and water damaged, but the price was right (20 bucks). The decals were no good, but I've got plenty of those. I will probably build it with the wings folded and I'm not sure about the colour scheme at the moment, but I'll work that out as I go along. Here's what I'm working with.
  20. What to do after you realise that some of them are way to shallow to hold a wash but you've already painted, decaled and sealed with a coat of clear. Sharpened pencils? Thoughts? Cheers Bevan
  21. Excellent , not done a group build ever , but this gives me a great excuse to have a crack at this over the Xmas break having sat on the shelf for three months . I assume it fits within the rules ?
  22. 'Morning ladies and gents, lads and lassies, Let me give it to you, straight. The Mustang was never one of my favorites. Something to do with the snobbish side of me, never wanting to love a plane everybody loves to love. It's sooo uncool to like a pretty face, right? That is until some months ago, when stranded in a foreign land and estranged from my trusty desk and rusty tools, all that was left for me to do was some virtual modelling on the internet. That is when I read about a new Revell release associated in some way with Radu Brinzan. I knew the name and respected the modeller. I was intrigued and read on, the previews, the reviews, the WIPs ... and soon before long I was hooked. I wrote to my friend in Belgium to buy a kit for me and in anticipation, I myself ordered an Eduard interior set. Thus, months later upon my return to my trusty desk, I was ready to join the fray. For my subject, I chose Art Fiedler's HELEN, a P-51D-5 of the 325 GR in Italy 1944. Seen here in static simulation And in simulated video The main reason for this choice is an opportunity to airbrush the famous yellow-and-black checkers and the various markings using Frisket film. I know it shows my age but what the heck? Secondly, this particular machine is retro-fitted with the dorsal fin fillet DFF found on later versions of the P-51D. So it will give me the chance to try my hand at the controversial 'swayback' fillet as these field-installed mods were known. Just what I needed to spice up an all-too conventional build... or so I thought at that time 'Nuff said. The ride is about to begin, ladies and gentlemen, all aboard. Cheers, Quang
  23. Final entry from me for this GB , as this is the last LSP left in my stash * and I feel I'm on a roll with this aircraft malarky at the moment . I built this same kit a couple of years ago and got quite wrapped up in the history of the pilot . This time I'm going to have a think about backdating this to an MK1 as I'm told the differences were mostly to do with where they were built as much as anything too striking visually , but any advice appreciated . NS3200 or maybe P9374 as there is a lot of references out there. It will also be interesting for me to compare where I was in 2019 and where I am now, modelling wise . * I know.... such an LSP amatuer...honestly.......... I have a lot of stuff in the stash but it's all the wrong one thirty-something So obligatory box shot to commence .
  24. So in keeping with the GB's theme I've going along with a duel build/s. First up is Revell's Spitfire IXc along with the normal am etc. I'm attempting to build it as a little dio as per these photo's I have a resin pilot thats pretty close to the first photo and should work well? Its also a chance to have the flaps down and displayed and I have a set in the stash! It also helps that I wont have to worry about the undercarriage, which is my least liked job of any build For my second build its Hasegawa's Fw 190A-8 again with a bundle of am. for this one it will be a scheme I found on an aeromaster sheet in 48th, and found reference (although no actual photos exist) in Luftwaffe's last hope book (along with the Spit). Again this was a downed plane so may well do another little dio. Yesterday I started on the pe for the flaps... 3 hours work but looking good? Aaron
  25. Well, since Duchess Arlene is getting close to wrapping up, time to start a new build! This time found a completely NON-NMF Mustang in one of the kit's marking options: Capt Hershel Pascoe's Desert Rat. Can't really remember if I've ever done a 'D' model that didn't have some NMF on it so this will be fun. Looking forward to working on faded finishes. Notice in BOTH of the pictures below how glossy the wing is. In both pictures you can see the reflections from the fuselage markings. Something to keep in mind for the finish... Also have collected a rather insane amount of AM of which I will use liberally on this build, and whatever is left maybe I'll use on my last Revell Mustang in the closet. I've also already liberated a few Eduard PE pieces left over from Duchess Arlene too. This will be an interesting conglomeration of bits... I think we've seen this before... Had the kit for probably 2 years? Got it for $20 in Chattanooga. I think I've tripled (at least) the cost just in AM... Picked up a lot of these bits in Telford over the years, esp the CMK and RB Productions pieces. Really wanted to give Radu's weathered floorboards and his resin bits a try... Did the typical wash and dry... Not nearly as many bits as with the Tamiya kit, as we know. Missing are the two sets of sprues for the wheels/drop tanks... The clear parts are still a problem but I'll get to that later. Here are Radu's worn Mustang Floorboard decals which I've wanted to try for a while. Prepped the floorboard with a coating of Vallejo Gloss Black Primer, the green is MRP Interior Green. Radu's decals are SHINY and very smooth. I angled the floor to catch the light to show how shiny they are. I may do a quick review on them, but definitely this is one of the times when it pays to follow directions. For a flat surface I normally would not put down Decal Solution, and Radu specifically says NOT to use a setting solution under his decals. After applying I pressed them down over the floor detail with a damp paper towel. After drying for a day I sprayed them with a clear matte: Not sure about the silver bolt heads over the black non-skid or where the surface has been worn, but after the matte spray, they look terrific. Similarly, one of my favorite things about the Revell kit is the cockpit... I took a lot of extra time with a toothpick trying to get all the gauges into their recesses on the IP. I came close! Will add some Airscale and Barracuda cockpit stencils to the IP (and the cockpit) to augment the already good details from the Revell kit. I did cut the selector switch decal into three pieces as the center 'switch' is too fat for the decal to settle down on. I SHOULD have just cut off the selector switch and used an Eduard PE piece. But this still looks pretty good. My first experience with CMK products is this resin seat. I bought both options, with and without seatbelts. For Desert Rat I opted for the seatbelts. The detail is really tremendous and extremely easy to paint. Base is Vallejo gloss white primer, then a spray of MRP Interior Green, specifically blotchy. The seat pad is Vallejo Model Air Hemp, followed with a wash of Vallejo Model Air Dark Brown, RLM61 - both brush painted. The RLM 61 was thinned 3 drops paint to 2 drops thinner. Seat belts are Model Master Acryl Tan, with seatbelt hardware brush painted using Vallejo Metal Color Dull Aluminum. After that had set, I used a damp paper towel, slightly dipped into the RLM61 to dab onto the seat for a bit of texture. Really hard to see here. Still need to add a bit more detail to the seatbelts. Its a start! Chris
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