mudrat

If you are building the UH-1N, the Rotor mast is the same except its painted black. on the UH-1D/H the tali rotor is on the opposite side as the N. On the N, at the fwd side of the base of the vertical fin, there are screen panels. On the D/H there are louvered vents that take up the same footprint as the N's screens. There are oval panels on the aft end of tail boom. on the N, these panels have RHAW antennas on them. on the D/H, thes panels are blank. On the D/H there are handles aft of the horizontal stabilisers on the tail boom. they are blancked off circular plates on the N. IF you are building the N, the vertical fin trailing edge is a straight line from the tip to the base of the fin. On the D/H. at the top of the fin, the last few inches curve inward. This all can be found in photos on the interweb. I spent all of May backdating an N profile illustration to a UH-1H.

SB2U-3 Vindicator.

Got mine today. Fedex never rang the doorbell, though. You Porch Pirates blew your chance (probably car-train-armour modelers). Regards, Stephen

Actually it is a Fiasco, thanks for validating my post.

The worst of the 1/48 F-4J/S kit Mfgrs. The nose at the Radome hinge line is 2mm wider than it is in height (in 1/ 48 this a big deal). The actual F-4J and S nose is equal in height and width. And then there's the rear fuselage shape fiasco. If you are building the kit with the radome open, with the Radar package extended or not, this looks really bad. Watch as Sycophants spout off undying loyalty to this fiasco. Regards, Stephen Mudgett

My only criticisms on the R2D F-4J cockpit set, it is beautiful, but the Front RADAR Scope is for the F-4S or the 12 or so F-4J (UK) a/c. The US F-4J Front Radar Indicator (scope) for the APG-59/AWG-10 in 1/32 scale, the same size and shape as the actual Tamiya F-4C/D front scope, with some minor differences to the sides of the Scope Bezel. There is no LRU-14 BIT box on the RIO's 'pit floor between the Ejection seat and the right cockpit wall. Everybody misses this. One thing that impresses me is the big rectangle to the RIO's left sholder, is actually the Correct Size and shape (LRU-11 Indicator Control Unit). Not usually correct in any of the F-4J/S pit's I have looked at (and I've looked at alot). Regards, Stephen Mudgett

Chris, Thank you for providing the means for me to perfect the A-7E & Su-27 and with your Sidewinders, my squadron's F-4J. Ageing sux, gummies help.

The Guy Narrating, Harry Crosby, was a member of our local Group, The Grey Eagles up here in NH. I talked with him a few times before he passed in 2010. He published a book, Wing and a Prayer. He really was the Lead Navigator with the 100th BG. He said he became the lead navigator because some pilots liked a particular mission he was on (Him implying that he was, himself, nothing special). A real humble guy. What a trip it is to see his life fleshed out like this! The second I heard someone say "Crosby" I lit right up! Regards, Stephen

The photo Modelmonkey has posted is of The JN-4D Jenny. TGWP movie used both JN-4D and Standard J-1 Hth, Stephen

My Father was the pilot of PR 4 (004) back in 1970 &71.

Count me in as well! just tell me where and when you want the money sent.

It's because of you that I went to Jiri. I saw his post of the Exhausts to Ebay that made me post the notice here. My 109E project was on hold for this very item. I did not want to drill them out like i did the last time. I had a set of STUKA and Hawker Typhoon exhausts that I was originally going to modify, until I saw your post. Thanks, Bigtime! Stephen

Airfix 1:24 Bf-109E exhaust stacks | eBay I bought a set, they're excellent! Regards, Stephen

Top Picture is of a P2V Neptune Engine Nacelle Regards, Stephen

It's funny, I just bought the FW-190 rivet set and was going to email you and ask you to do a set for the SBD but you beat me to it. And yes, I'll pay $200 for the set, too. I've riveted the 1/18 TBF-1 (still have the bottom wings to do). I've spent about $200 thus far. I'd be up for a 1/32 set for the Trumpeter kit. How about a set for the FLY Wessex (or at least a set from the cockpit to the tail, for those of us wanting to do an H-34 conversion)? Thank You for your continued support of our need for decent surface textures. Regards, Stephen

Only two criticizems, nothing build related. It's Rozzie Geth (for Fred's Wife; Rosamond Gethro) and Fred stated that his name is Fred Christensen Jr. vs. Fredrick. (Fredrick Christensen was a German WWI Pilot with the same kill score, though). Regards, Stephen

Gaspatch Models has 1/24 Spandau MGs and 1/24 Turnbuckles. Costas is great to deal with and has gone way out of his way to be of assistance to this individual. I cannot give enough praise for the help he has provided to me (and in 1/24 WWI scale)! TINS. Best Regards, Stephen Mudgett

+1!!! I have the mesh and the Wessex, just waiting for the proper time to start work. Regards, Stephen Mudgett

The addition of the chin intake and a full set of cowl flaps are the main visable differences between the -1 amd -3. -Stephen

Scored an HK Mossie B Mk. IV for $95 (USD), Delivered. It arrived yesterday. Congrats on your score, Stephen

[/url] [/url] I built this for my father. Copperstate Decals. It could benefit from some PE Spandau Jackets. You do have to chop and graft the N struts and Cabane struts to lower the top wing. Cut down the vertical depth of the aft fuselage. Get the Windsock datafile for decent drawings to use. It's easy to do. Finding 1/28 4 and 5 color lozenge decals are a problem. The Axial prop is laminated, carved and urethaned. The DVII hangs with the 1/24 Marco's Miniature Nieuport 28 I built my dad for father's day a number of years ago. [/url] WNW has it all in one box. Regards, Stephen

Chris Sherland. Use of my copyrighted profile illustration on by LSP on this web site was granted solely for the purpose of decal sheet promotion and inclusion as illustrated material for the decal placement information/reference sheet. You did not seek permission for the use of this illustration for the self promtion of your project. You do not have Carte Blanche to use my illustrations whenerver you choose, nor do I grant permission to to do so. Please remove my illustration from this thread. Thank you in advance for respecting the legal copyrights of others. Stephen Mudgett

I regards to all posts about the Dora-9, it takes just as much effort and money to make a bad model as it does a good onein this day and age. With CAD/CAM technology ( CAD front end packages, CNC Machining, EDM /Spark Erosion mould cutting), plus the reduced human labor element cost in China, There is no excuse for poor up front R&D in a world awash in relevant information. If you want to lay down for the status quo, that's your perogative. I think they (Trumpeter) can (and have, in many cases) do better. It's not a question of skills to fix or improve, here (most of us have them) it's a question of weather some of us even want to. I'm getting older, and I have less time and interest in working on a dog, cause frankly I've worked on enough dogs in my lifetime and I have no more interest in doing so. So again, here's my message, you want my money, make it look reasonably accurate. I can spend it just as easily, elsewhere, where it is done right. Stephen http://www.stephenmudgett.com

They are from the same mold. hth, Stephen http://www.stephenmudgett.com

A lot of panels were RTV'd on the F-4 as well as other NAVAIR a/c. The high use maintenance panels were not usually sealed in this manner, as they had to have some ease of access. Here is the procedure; after a panel has been replaced and the fasteners screwed down(sealant may have been required prior to this, as well), masking tape is applied on either side of the panel line/seam (I've seen 1/2 inch spaces in the masks). A bead of RTV is then run along the unmasked panel seam. The bead is then squeegied down and the masking tape is then removed, leaving a distinct, albeit smooth raised line, where the seam was locathed. This bead is sometimes painted over (especially if this is done during Depot Level rework, but was also done at the organizational {squadron} level if that particular area of the a/c required this sealant method). Sometimes you can see cracked paint here from the flexing of the RTV during weather/ temp changes. I wish I could tell you which were or were'nt sealed, but If you look at the Tamiya F-14A, those inspection and maint. panels are recessed scribed while non maint panels lines are raised. That makes complete sense. Though some inspection panels were sealed after a timed or phase inspections. Everything on the lower sides of the nose and aft of the 'pit of the F-14 were always accessed on a regular basis. I can say that those long curving lines above the engine doors and aft of the RAT were sealed on an F-4, by McAir during mfg. Look at sharp photos if you can get them. HTH, Stephen