Archer Fine Transfers

Yes, it has the loop antenna according to William Reece. The Smithsonian did a series of cockpit books and there's a photo of a -6 with the mounting bracket, but missing the loop. Damn, son you're making some serious progress and the engine looks awesome. I'm completely stalled on my build.

Take the prop to a machinist and explain what you want to do. Have him make a drill guide out of round stock with two holes, one on either end, one hole large enough to snugly fit over the prop boss and another hole on the other end the size of the drill bit you plan to use to drill the hole. Slip the guide over the prop boss and drill. Hope that makes sense.

Old school wet facial tissue is very delicate. Seal the edges with tape and liquid mask. When ready to remove, wet it again.

Surface preparation is the key.

Sounds fun, give it a try and let me know how it works.

And that's easy part. I use Illustrator to do this and each one of those rivets is an individual object, mostly grouped into strings but still individually selectable. Example: Let's say I need to move one of those rivets closer or farther away. Now I have uneven spacing, and to fix that I have to select the whole string and space them evenly, but that's just a click. I must have done that a thousand times. It's a mind numbing exercise in tedium - and with my OCD.... I was considering the Avenger next but the hell with that! BTW, I got the struts... really nice and the

This will be offered, as is. It's definitely not for everyone, just top tier builders. I had considered offering this with things like wing tips, access panels, etc. as pre-arranged panels and then just sheets of straight, individual runs of rivets to get the price down, but it would take months of mind-numbing tedium to go about it that way. I did a quick estimate, and just on the top of the outboard part of one wing there is 160 inches of straight line rivets. It's too bad the program I use can't tell me how many individual rivets there are, but a good guess would be 30,000 on th

Yea, but those will probably be deleted in the production release. I've had to make so many minor tweaks that I have to get another kit to check my work. BTW, I looked through my files and I started development back in March of 2019. Never having done anything this complicated I created some problems for myself early on that haunted me throughout development.

Not much to say here other than I finally got this thing completely riveted. I’d say it took me 40 hours all together. Next up is figuring out how to paint closed flaps. Thanks for looking.

No problem finding Mr. Color 338 Gray, but I can't find anywhere selling Blue 367. Is there an equivalent color in their range, or something that can be mixed from that line to make it? Doesn't have to be perfect, because there will be a lot of varying tones to replicate worn/faded paint. I'm able to mix to match but don't know where to start. Any help is greatly appreciated. Thank you.

Hi Rick! So that was your Tempest... Sweet! Too bad we didn't realize we "knew" each other. Next year for sure. As for long strips, the trick is to be sure the back of the decal is very wet. Just before applying them brush water onto the back of the decal and you should be able to run a strip any length. This makes them come off the backing much easier, eliminating the stress on the decal. If you're using lacquer based clear, you can spray a wet coat of lacquer thinner designed for models over the rivet decals to create a molecular bond between the decal film (which is l

Hi James, Sorry I'm late to this discussion, but I don't spend a lot of time online. Regardless: Our rivets are raised resin "bumps" cast onto Microscale clear decal film. The recommended way to apply them to clear coated bare styrene, and we strongly recommend lacquer based clear for this. You can also apply them over primer, but it has to be clear coated for maximum adhesion. As far as losing detail under paint, unless you put your paint on with a mop, they show up prominently. As for are they better than a riveting tool that puts recessed divots into the

Lookin good Brett, but that goes without saying on your builds. The engine in those SBD kits is super nice. Don’t sweat the ignition ring, if this old fart could drill his out, so can you.

Nice save on the stabs. Haven't gotten that far on mine. Real clean work...

I had the idea for a while, but I couldn't think of a suitable parting agent. When I saw it didn't stick to my rubber squeegee, I put some on tape to test it. It works.