Archer Fine Transfers

The current trend in eyewear is for large lenses therefore the close-up area at the bottom is not very small. Opt for large lenses like the cool kids. LOL

This is exactly why I posted. I recently had cataract surgery and opted for perfect distance vision and when I got new glasses the optometrist went through the "normal" routine asking me what my "comfortable reading distance" was and wrote the prescription to that spec: +2 diopter. For the average customer, I guess this is right but I was back to the same old routine of constantly swapping various strengths of reading glasses for close up modeling work. So I went back and told the optometrist that I wanted my close up vision prescription changed to +3.25 diopter which is what my reading glasses were for model work. Now I never have to swap glasses! I can see perfectly from VERY close to infinity and I don't move my head that much - I move my eyes. When I'm working on a model my head is about 30 degrees down but my eyes are about 45 degrees down looking through my ideal +3.25 and with the current trend in eyewear being large lenses the very bottom of the lens is bigger than with small lenses. I can honestly say these are the best eyeglasses I've EVER had and I did it by insisting my close up diopter strength matched the strongest ready reader glasses I use when model building instead of the "normal" reading distance.

Yea, the first time I wore progressives I almost fell down the stairs leaving the optometrist office. Suddenly my legs were a foot longer.

Alclad makes their clear coat in a few different degrees of matte. You may want to look into that.

I've been struggling with my eyesight for years and finally had cataract surgery which was a life altering event as far as I'm concerned. I opted for distance vision to be sharp and figured I'd just keep using reading glasses for close-up work, but what a PITA that is so I decided to get eyeglasses with progressive lenses. When I had my eye exam the optometrist asked me how far I hold things when I read and prescribed lenses to that specification - +2 diopter. WRONG! I still needed reading glasses for close up work and the best for me is +3.25 diopter so I took my glasses back and told the optometrist that I wanted my near vision prescription changed from the +2 to +3.25. Despite her objections she changed the prescription. Now I never have to change eyeglasses for any reason, my closeup vision is good enough for any detail work. CONCLUSION: If you wear progressive lenses insist that your near vision prescription matches the strength of the reading glasses or magnifier you use for modeling.

Alclad Aqua Gloss under and the clear overcoat of your choice. Satin is most appropriate for aircraft. IMNSHO anyway.

This is a common problem with enamel paints when you pre-thin enamels and store them. I decided a long time ago that pre-mixed washes are a waste of money. A couple tubes of oil paints and thinner work just as well, if not better. YMMV

Great topic. Figure I'll throw in my 2¢ here based on my aircraft experience. Aluminum oxidizes while retaining some of it's metallic appearance. Pure aluminum oxide is white, but it has a "tooth" like fine sandpaper so it will become stained by the environment. What contaminant doesn't get blown off will accumulate in the recesses as seen in your photo.

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Or how I saved the first model I've built in 20 years from the trash bin. For the whole sordid story see the WIP build HERE

In a way, yes. However, in my experience, being proficient at AI could save having to learn the shape drawing part of a 3D application. For instance, let's say you're going to make a bulkhead. If you're proficient in AI you can draw the shape along with any lightening holes, etc. in AI quickly, import it into the 3D/CAD program and extrude it to the thickness required avoiding how to learn the 3D/CAD program's drawing tools. I know that's a gross simplification, but presented here as one example.

Maybe. When I was a commercial illustrator I built a few 3-D illustrations with Strata 3D Pro by importing AI files. If you can find good cross section views of your subject and a CAD program that allows you import AI files it's just a matter of time before you're done.

I bent more Iwata needles than I can remember since the 80s when I was a commercial artist so I feel your pain. Always have a spare on hand. Two things: When removing the nozzle, first loosen and pull the needle back until you see the tip in the cup to avoid touching the point. NEVER install the needle point first. Go blunt end first from front until it comes out the back and then pull it back.

True, if you can pull the needle chuck back beyond the distance it travels with the trigger. That makes sense. Good point.

Winner, winner chicken dinner! Thank you!