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Archer Fine Transfers

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Archer Fine Transfers last won the day on February 8 2019

Archer Fine Transfers had the most liked content!

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About Archer Fine Transfers

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    Hooked For Life
  • Birthday 12/08/1946

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    Youngsville, NC

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  1. This is the day I've been looking forward to since the day I started on this project in March, 2019. Our full rivet replacement kits for the SBD are finally bagged and ready to ship to LSP members exclusively at a $25 savings. The retail on this is $195.95 but your price is $170 plus shipping. The link to buy is HERE. You can see a full SBD-5 build using this kit HERE. Photo © Brett Matthews
  2. In my subjective opinion, flat is too flat for aircraft models. I've found that a 50/50 mix of Mr. Color flat and gloss yields a pretty convincing scale effect finish. Go to a contest and compare and I think you'll agree.
  3. What's left to say except that this is an exceptional build and thank you for your help in getting this rivet set tuned up and ready to market. Hopefully, I'll be able to get back on mine in the next few weeks. Stay in touch!
  4. Bravo! The finish is quite impressive and with the flaps and canopy closed the overall shape and lines of the aircraft dominate. Best beta tester ever!
  5. I bought a 10 yard roll and threw it away. When I went to unroll it the film and backing separated from the paper so bad it was un-usable, but perhaps it was just a bad roll. Please let us know it works for you. I buy by the sheet HERE and find it a lot easier to work with.
  6. I haven't tried this yet but get some clear decal film and paint your markings on it with masks you cut with your Cricut. The only "unknown" is how well they would take to conforming to irregular surfaces but since decals are essentially lacquer, if you use lacquer paints, it "should" work. I'll send you some clear film if you think the idea is worth a try.
  7. Such a great kit, and you've done it justice. Weathering is quite convincing.
  8. Do a test first. It's never a good idea to try something on your build that you've never done before and generally speaking, lacquer over enamel is not a good idea.
  9. If you are building the Trumpeter SBD you will encounter the infamous uneven wing to fillet gap. Other kits may have the same issue so this can pertain to your build too. Filling this seam, sanding and re-scribing isn't something I'm very comfortable doing, especially the scribing part. I suck at scribing. A lot is made of this gap flaw and if you’re going for good basic construction, it has to be fixed. Please note that this is my SBD mule. Quite by accident I discovered that Tamiya white putty won’t stick to clear Scotch tape - the glossy stuff, not
  10. If it doesn't go down wet, yes I would. You need enough thinner to not only carry the paint from the airbrush to the model, but also wet the layer underneath. Regardless, I always hose down my paint when finished. I love the sheen.
  11. As you discovered when doing the fuselage, it's not dust - it's lack of adhesion. It's too late now, but in the future apply a wet coat of thinner over everything to insure a molecular bond between the paint layers. It's the beautiful thing about lacquers - their property of being able to re-wet and bond between layers, not to mention the smooth sheen achievable.
  12. A glossy surface is preferable, but lately I've discovered that brushing a little gloss clear acrylic where the decal will go works surprisingly well. I've tried Future, Ammo and Aqua Gloss. Of those three Aqua Gloss is best, even sucked the decal down into recessed rivets. Do a test to see if it will work for you.
  13. I may be mistaken, but I believe that recess inside the "Z" is actually a hole used somehow to facilitate lifting the aircraft. I know it's late in the game but you might consider opening it up. I usually just see guys paint it black, but that may look awkward next to the black lettering.
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