Archer Fine Transfers

One other thing about getting a good, smooth, even coat of any color is to have good light. You should have a light source that clearly shows a reflection where you're spraying. Regardless of what paint you're using it will (or should be) wet when applied and that moisture will be clearly visible in the reflection and that reflection will guide you. If you've ever seen a car paint booth, there are lights on the ceiling all the way down to the floor for exactly this reason. When you're painting you have to see exactly where the paint is going so you overlap each pass. Of course, all of this is easy to preach. YMMV.

Try Pbase.com. I've been using them for over 10 years. No subscription and I think I pay about $30 per year.

Thanks Kev. Sometimes it takes a village.

Some new releases. ACCESS PANELS: Scale thickness. 115 total pieces. Resin on clear decal film. Due to their generic nature they can be used for many different applications on various scales and subjects. 1/32: CLICK HERE 1/24: CLICK HERE SCAB PATCHES: Suitable for 1/32 and 1/24 aircraft, but due to their generic nature they can be used for many different applications on various scales and subjects. Available in two styles - recessed rivets and raised. Scale thickness. Resin on clear decal film. 115 pieces on each sheet. Recessed rivets: CLICK HERE Raised rivets: CLICK HERE -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- CLICK HERE for our complete list of Surface Details for aircraft. CLICK HERE for our complete list of dry transfers for aircraft: Thank you!

Yup, me too.

Yea, I noticed that Semi Gloss 181 is too glossy and considered mixing Flat 182 with it to dull it down a bit. More experimenting.

Is there any perceptible difference between the two?

The trick to getting a smooth finish, regardless of the color, is to lay it on wet so it flows out. I just started using Mr. Color #46 mixed 50/50 with leveling thinner (Thank you Lothar) and lacquer is definitely the way to go. Before that I was using Aqua Gloss but the extended cure time is an issue for me. Also, spraying straight thinner over paint to get it to flow out doesn't work once acrylic or enamel has dried/cured. Of the three different kinds of paint only lacquer can be "re-wet" after it dries. Of course all of this is a moot point if you put your paint down wet in the first place.

Excellent! Thank you.

Cameo 3. Just got it on Friday. Looks pretty simple and I was a bit surprised that you can select three different resolutions up to 1200 dpi. Can even be used to cut card stock. Of course I haven't tried any of this yet. Tutorials are pretty lacking and seem almost exclusively geared to crafters. Oh, and BTW, you can call me Woody. Mister V was my father. LOL

Now we're getting somewhere! Thanks Mike, just ordered. The cutter arrived yesterday, and so it begins.

Well, it just goes to show that nothing is ever as simple as it seems leaving us to only:

Thanks for taking the time to explain both... very helpful. I was aware of the Ora-mask issue and will try it first, but I plan to cut it into sheets and flatten it under a pile of books to see if it will release the tension. Regardless, if I do cut masks for a customer I'll be sure to tell them it has to be used SOON after receiving it.

I'm about to pull the trigger on a stencil cutter and was wondering what the best masking material is for long term storage. We get so many requests for custom markings but dry transfers have gotten obscenely expensive to produce that potential customers usually faint when I give them an estimate.

Well, I found a way that suits me perfectly. My "search for paint that doesn't hate me" journey led me to Mr. Color lacquer and it dries so fast that by the time I've painted top and bottom of one side and refilled my airbrush I just hold it by the already painted wing. Man, I LOVE THIS PAINT! Well, after I rigged up my spray booth to suck the fumes out of the room.