Jump to content

Avenger2614

LSP_Members
  • Content Count

    174
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About Avenger2614

  • Rank
    LSP Junkie
  • Birthday 12/26/1984

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Westminster, Colorado

Recent Profile Visitors

938 profile views
  1. Hi Jack, This photo of Superman shows neither the Sperry power turret, or the ball turret, under the aircraft but the small, rectangular windows on the lower rear fuselage, just below the camo demarcation line, are the tunnel gun windows: https://ww2db.com/image.php?image_id=21660 My understanding is a large majority of Pacific B-24s didn't carry a ball turret, and instead had the "tunnel gun," as seen in the following image: https://worldwar2database.com/gallery/wwii0005 That being said, the tunnel gun had very poor field of fire, as
  2. Being a complete 3D printing novice, and having no knowledge whatsoever about cost and time, I'm curious what it would cost to design and print a full 1/32 fighter kit? I'm working my way through building the entire P-40 series, and would love to add a P-40Q, but as we all know, nobody makes one in 1/32. Out of curiosity, what would it cost to design and print a "simple" kit of one (basic interior, and just fuselage, horizontals, and wings)? I figure one could adapt existing P-40N landing gear and wheels to the kit. Thanks for any information anyone can provide. -Daniel S. Arv
  3. Just added mine to my backorder list at Hannants, and have contacted my source for custom masks/decals to render a Naval Reserve SB2C-5. Not much needed for the conversion, just need to delete the spinner (or replace the prop with a resin P-47 prop), sand the frames off the pilot's sliding section, and delete the Yagi radar. I'm sure there are other little intricacies, but I'm not going to get too in the sticks with it beyond that. I'll add it to my pending lineup of Naval Reserve aircraft in 1/32, which currently sits at a Fisher/Trumpeter AD-6, KittyHawk AT-6, Trumpeter F6F-5, F8F-1, and TBM
  4. Is this when we're supposed to pine for that 1/32 A-20 Havoc?
  5. Andy, I believe that is because the plastic parts for this release were not molded by Eduard, but instead by another company who provided them to Eduard. I can't recall the name of the company off the top of my head, though. Looks like I'll be getting a special bottle of glue for my future build.
  6. My main reason for not participating in group builds is rather simple. . . I have no practical means of showing my work! After going through a "divorce" of sorts last year, the only online access I have is either via cell phone or through a work computer, neither of which allow me to publish photos to online forums. It's not that I'm not building (notice I said building, not finishing kits. . .), I just don't have a viable way of showing off my work due to not having a personal computer. I used to use PhotoBucket, and some of my older builds can be found on the site, but since PB became the la
  7. Was able to find these at Hannants in the UK, but can't speak to their quality: https://www.hannants.co.uk/product/VA3260?result-token=qvDCZ
  8. Hello Everybody, When I built my last early Mustang from the HobbyCraft kit, I found a gentleman on here who made 3D-printed spinners for the kit which were a huge improvement in shape over the kit pieces. Does anybody know who was producing those, or does anybody have the ability to 3D-print a P-51 spinner with three prop blade holes? Thanks for any direction anybody can provide. -Daniel S. Commerce City, CO
  9. If you can get the Avionix cockpit for it, it's a great, great upgrade over the kit parts. I'd also recommend a set of resin wheels, too, as Brassin makes a nice set (which are too large for the P-40N kit they were designed for, anyway, and are more correct for any other variant of the P-40). If you do those two upgrades, you're in for a great-looking P-40 with better fit than the fiddly Hasegawa kit. I'm debating doing another one, grafting their P-40N tail onto their P-40F kit to make the P-40L. I have some great Kagero decals, and I like the look of the Merlin-engined P-40 variants. I'll cl
  10. Trumpeter has quietly (?) released their P-40E in 1/32, complete with Aleutian Campaign markings, as well. While the sprues don't include some of the modifications made to the Aleutian P-40s (blast tubes on guns removed, insert behind the exhaust stacks, etc), it would still build into a decent representation. Having built their P-40F, which shares 90% of the same parts at the P-40E release, I can tell you it builds really well, has great surface detail, but the cockpit is really disappointing. Think about a cockpit that's about halfway between their P-40B/C and the Hasegawa kit; the cockpit i
  11. Out of curiosity, what does it take to make this kit into a USAF D? I've wanted to build the two-seater, but I know nothing about the airframe.
  12. Speaking of B-24s... anybody have any expert advice on correct interior colors, including the wheel wells? I know the cockpit was bronze green, but beyond that, I've got nothing. What say you?
  13. Speaking from experience, you can shoehorn the Avionix resin cockpit, designed for the Hasegawa kit, into the Trumpeter kit. It requires a smidge of plastic added to the resin to match the rear bulkhead profile, and a bit of trimming on the kit canopy rail sections, but in all honesty it was rather painless. Slap some resin wheels on it, and it really dresses it up. Doesn't do anything for the shape issues, but sure helps some other glaring areas.
×
×
  • Create New...