KUROK

Well its been a lot less time on the big cat than id hoped, but progress non the less. The process took a bit longer than I anticipated as well, but I'm still on target.
 
The Milliput was sanded back, and Mr. Surfacer 1000 applied by brush to the roughest spots. From there, it was sanded back with 400 - 1000 grid wet dry. Next, a layer of Mr. Surfacer 1500 black was applied with the air brush overall to the outside and inside of the nacelles, and the exterior of the nacelles was sanded with 1500 - 3500 wet dry.
Although I plan on spraying the outer surface of the F7F with a light primer since the base color of DSB is very dark, I applied this black layer here as more of a way of getting all things symmetrically painted and knowing where I have to touch-up.
 
The process of Mr Surfacer over Milliput gave me the smooth transition from exhaust ports to firewall that I needed:
 

 

 

 

 
 
 
 
Obviously I still have most of the rescribing and riveting left to do on the port nacelle that got chopped in two and glued back together, but otherwise I'm happy with the progress.
I've also made a start on one of the engine bearers to see how I wanted to proceed, as the prior idea of making a jig and gluing the bearers on from there with the nacelles taped in their final position did not work out as well as I would have liked. It turned out gluing the bearers in from the back proved nearly impossible, so I'm going a different route on those..................stay tuned!
 
Thanks for stopping in on me and Cheers,

This is the comeback Cat....loving this Brian.  Your workmanship is second to none.

Hey Kev, finally managed to get off my butt and get on flickr.  
 
Now trying to figure out how I'm going to modify forward wing root for the fuselage.
 
 
Thats all for now, cheers, and GO SAINTS!
 
Dave/Ironman1945

I recently finished Eduard's new 1/48 Spitfire Mk. I as a pre-war aircraft from RAF Squadron No. 54. Excellent kit all around. I used Eduard Brassin exhausts and a LOOK pre-painted instrument panel. Decals are from Iliad Designs Pre-War Spitfire sheet and paints are from Mr. Color and Mr. Paint. A full build review will appear soon in TMMI. 
 

So say we all!!
 
I watched the original show in the late 70s as a kid and was a total convert Ron Moore’s new series. Love it. Also Blood and Chrome was awesome!!
 
good job on the kit. I have a copy but have not built up yet. 

So say we all!!
 
I watched the original show in the late 70s as a kid and was a total convert Ron Moore’s new series. Love it. Also Blood and Chrome was awesome!!
 
good job on the kit. I have a copy but have not built up yet. 

thanks, Kev!
 
I have to be honest, the original does very little for me, but I thought the re-imagined series was excellent... well, until the show runner changed; the new bod didn't believe in it or Caprica and they both withered and died. Admittedly, the studio fire that destroyed many of the BSG sets didn't help!
 
One of the things I particularly liked about BSG TRS is that the Cylons weren't just "the enemy" who had no point of view. After the show concluded, a DVD was released that shows many of the scenes from their perspective. I think it says a lot for the show's copyright holders that they not only permitted, but actively supported, a fan-driven spin off, Blood and Chrome, which was extremely well produced. Contrast that with certain other studios and their treatment of fans' use of copyright emblems, etc.

I bought this kit quite a long time ago, I think it was one of the first LSP's I bought. I did so because it was 69 bucks, at the time I thought it was a bargain for a large scale Macchi 202. The I tried building it and found out why there weren't many builds of this kit around.  What I remember from doing the interior is it required sanding down the inside of the fuselage a lot to make the resin fit. I got finished doing this, turned towards the wheel wells and that's where I stopped.
 
Years past with this kit sitting in the shelf of doom. The pile of dust on it was quite impressive. It almost hit he bin a few times, the only reason it didn't was because I'd hate to have wasted 69 bucks. I picked it up last month and decided come hell or high water I would finish it. The wheel wells that proved difficult to fit were thrown in the bin, I then progressively glued together the bottom wing to fuselage, then gear doors were put into place followed by the upper wing sections. Those did not fit well and all of the wing to fuselage joint area has been sanded and shaved heavily then rescribed to get a decent fit.
 
The resin oil cooler was too small to fit the hole in the resin lower cowling, itself being slightly under size. Some sanding of the plastic helped with fit here. Radiator was fine and the tail was average but some basic filling and sanding here fixed that. I did get stuck for a while with the canopy, windscreen and spinner. The spinner is too small for the back plate, this was just sanded to fit, which makes it slightly under size, but oh well. I had to take a lot of plastic off the fuselage to get the windscreen and canopy anywhere close to fitting.
 
I decided for the colours, I liked the profile of one of the around 20 Croatian machines used on the Russian Front. The pictures of these machines are not the best, so I just guessed at what the markings might be, figuring German insignia was most likely with the Croat shield in place of the swastika to make things a little different (but this kind of thing was done with at least 1 POA machine). Markings came form the spares box along with the pilot.
 

 

 

 

 

Hey guys, me again.....
Another Zipper for those Starfighter lovers..... another one that never made up to RFI.
 
Mostly out of the box, except for the burner, the IP , seat belt and pitot,
Tamiya and Gunze paint, Alclad for metal.
 
Done 5 years ago, this one was my first attemp with Eduard IP and wasn't gonna be the last, it was quick, easy and realy nice.
hope your gonna like it.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
Dont got too far, that's the first part....... 
 
Dan.
 
 
 

Been a while since I updated this thread.  A combination of a quick (local) getaway with my wife preventing me from being at the bench and a lack of desire to closely photo-journalize the slog through dealing with aligning wing to fuselage and closing the plethora of resulting gaps. That said, the airframe is assembled and ready, finally, for some paint.
 

 
Somewhere along the way I lost one of my home-made machine gun barrels and so will need to remake that.  I've also made new exhaust stubs from brass tubing and will probably scratch a replacement for the poor kit pitot tube the same way.
 
The underside:
 

 
It's not perfect, but I'm focusing on getting this one finished before I get distracted by another project...  It's hard to see in these photos, but the entire surface is covered in my maiden attempt at hand-made rivets.  Obviously much less sophisticated than the decal-on raised rivets we've been treated to recently, just impressed with a toothed wheel.  This closeup makes it easier to see part of the pattern.
 

 
The lines are not perfectly straight everywhere, but given that I did it entirely freehand just by following lines I penciled on, I'm actually surprised how decent it looks.  It will be interesting to see how much of it is still visible following paint - the dimples are very small and shallow, especially since I was working with already-assembled subunits (which I won't try again) and so could not press too hard.
 
Despite the sloggy nature of this build, I seem to have purchased another Special Hobby kit.
 

 
Why, you ask, would I do this, especially since this isn't even a PTO warbird?  Because I'm a sucker for obscure subjects, and who else but SH is ever going to do this aircraft in 1:32? - that's right, no one.  And because, based on a perusal of photos of the sprues, they did quite a complete 3-D engine on this kit, providing an opportunity for my favorite kind of detailing (although that also means I have to figure out how to open a cowling access panel or two).  And this is a 2014 tool, so *hopefully* a bit more sophisticated than the Hawk, which debuted in 2005 and was one of (I believe) their earliest 1:32 aircraft attempts.  
 
So back to the P-36, I shot a coat of Alclad gloss black.  Although I used Chuck's wet towel trick to try and minimize static buildup, this is FAR from being a Chuck-quality black undercoat.
 

 

 
The good news is that the rivets still show up well.  Once the paint has fully cured I will overspray it with Mr Leveling Thinner to try and gloss up the areas that didn't quite get there on the first try.  I left the rudder and elevators off because I'm going to underpaint them with flat gray so that they have more of an aluminum-doped fabric look (I'll mask off the ailerons and do the same for them before topcoating with Alclad).
 
I'm leaning towards shooting the whole thing with basic Alclad Aluminum (if nothing else I have a lot of it on hand so won't run out) and then picking some specific panels to overspray with Duralumin and Airframe Aluminum for a bit of variation.  I hope to have that done before the end of the weekend - gotta keep the momentum up.  I'm off now to scan the decal sheet and Silhouette some masks.

Thanks all!  
 
Yes, this one by far and away has been blowing my mind with regard to how its supposed to go together.  Its really tough on my OCD, as NOTHING "pops" or "snaps" into place, and everything is just a bit off here or there, requiring guestimations, scratch building and loads of cursing. Combine that with flubs in manufacturing from the factory, and instructions that really are images only, and even then don't always show how or where exactly things are supposed to go. 
Its maddening at times honestly, and if the F7F was not my all time favorite aircraft, Im not sure Id persevere on this one. 
I'll NOT be giving up on this one however..........as at some point next year, I WILL have a finished 1/32nd scale F7F Tigercat!!
 
On a good note however, the latest factory flub in the kit (engine bearer brace being WAY too short) I think has been fixed, and that has lead to (hopefully) one of the last major "how-the-hell-am-I-going-to-do-this" moments of the kit:
 
I managed to cut open the port side engine bearer brace that was too short and add some styrene tubing to that, sanding it down to fit over the internal wire. From there, I used some larger aluminum tube for the bearer bases. Its not perfect by ANY means, but after about two hours of drilling holes in the wrong spot, cutting the new brace open a couple times, because the angles didnt match up to the starboard side, I had a pair of somewhat matching engine bearers:
 

 
 

 
 
 
 
You can see the styrene tubing extensions on the back and front of the outer port brace. In retrospect, it wasn't off by a mm or two but more like 5 or 6mm. Enough to where it should have been VERY noticeable it was not the same as the other 3:
 

 
 
 
 
This then will lead me to building the rest of the engine mounts which consist of two V shaped upper side parts, two V shaped lower side parts and a front hoop that the engine will rest on. Getting these last engine bearer parts assembled will be one of the last really tough parts to do.  You can see what the finished bearer is supposed to look like once all parts are glued on in the lower left side of the instruction book:
 

 
 
There was a very nice build of an HpH Tigercat by a Czech gentleman that has helped me considerably. I have used his build pics quite a bit to help me understand where things actually are supposed to go. Here you can see how the front engine bearer "hoop" must align just forward of the firewall itself, in order to have the engine where it needs to be inside the cowl:
 
Forward engine mount and firewall:
 

 
 
 
 
As you can see here, the engine mound hoop is JUST barely smaller than the opening in the firewall:
 

 
 
 
 
With this being said, theoretically when all 4 of the outer engine bearer parts are put together correctly, they come together at a single point at the top and sides (the bottom has a space in-between the braces unlike the top and sides). That seems WAY easier said than done with the inconsistencies of the resin parts in the kit. 
You can see here in the Czech gents build, how the firewall must be blended with the nacelle exhaust cutouts. The firewall then protrudes off of the nacelle by 4 or 5mm;
 

 
 
 
 
This leads to the main issue with the engine hoop. The nacelles themselves need to remain separate until all the internal wheel well detail is added, BUT the engine bearers need to be build before the nacelles can be installed..........yet you NEED the nacelle installed with the firewall installed on it, to make sure the engine bearer hoop will like up correctly with the hole in the firewall.
 
You can see here how the engine bearer hoop must align exactly with the hole in the firewall, and also must protrude ever so slightly (about the thickness of the hoop itself) in order to get the engine seated where it needs to be in the cowl:
 

 
 
 
 
Im really looking forward to figuring out this issue, as once I DO do that, The rest of the difficult parts will be things like the landing gear, and clear parts, but those I dont think will take NEARLY the mental fortitude that all of the rest has taken to this point. 
 
Man, this kit really makes you want it bad if you are going to see it all the way to completion!! 
 
Ive got the fire in me for this one boys, so Im going to utilize that feeling to press on through the crappy parts of the build, then onto the good stuff, like detailing and painting.
 
Cheers until you older! 
 

evening chaps
 
 
 
Hi Tom - thanks for dropping in Good question... I have a lot of the design done as I did make some for my 190, but in all honesty I can't see a way to integrate anything accurate with the HB kit - it is a bit all over the place. Maybe just a replacement panel might work, but that is a bit incongruous when is sits alongside totally incorrectly sized / aligned sidewalls & the rest.. The alternative is a full cockpit, by which time you are talking a big set which would soon get expensive and to be honest I don't think they are in any way mass-market like the old airfix 1/24 stalwarts..
 
..not a priority, but not impossible either.. sorry
 
..still bimbling along on the Fury - got a good bit of time this weekend so thought I would at least start the panel..
 
..pressed metal, silver painted, wierd gizmo's either side of the upper central part and quite an interesting shape - basically it occupies the only remaing space looking forwards and allowing for the gun breeches... long before any sense of order or anything like a blind flying panel..
 

 
 
..I have made up the decal sheet for the model & this is with Ray at Fantasy with my pending airscale restock order...
 

 
..I started by adding plastic strip to the back of the PE panel to make it look like a pressing...
 

 
..also made up the wierd gizmo thing that sits behind the top out of kits of tiny PE parts...
 

 
..then painted it & added all the pre-painted bezels - also glazed some but will wait for the decals before doing the coloured (blue / yellow) bezels as these are like little slivers of coloured tube so I need to figure out how I will do those...
 

 
..it sort of goes here...
 

 

 
 
..next up I thought I would try the gun breeches.. I found some useful pics of the Vickers guns, though these have the big cooling jackets whereas the Fury has the thinner holed ones like a 50 cal you would see on a B17..
 
..I used this image to scale & design the PE and actually reversed the design for a left & right, but as it turns out they both have this mechanism on the same side so luckily I had a brass set PPD made by mistake so I could combine both PE sets to get two right handed guns..
 
 
the core is a block of thick plastic card, with laminated PE sides & folded PE tops..
 

 
..then added some of the details and started to make up the charging handles from wood laminated on a PE part with brass pins through each - this was then doused in thin CA before shaping..
 

 
..then they were finished up.. I won't be adding the barrels, they will be added from the outside when the fuselage is done way into the future..
 

 

 
..need to make up the mounting frame for these now which is a pretty complicated tubular structure..
 
TTFN
Peter
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Oh my goodness, I can't possibly accept or live up to such praise , those are the kindest comments I have ever read. The thought of any comparison with my modelling heroes is really beyond my comprehension - I just try my best and set myself high standards on your behalf
 
thank you - it is the fuel of my motivation..
 
so, as I said last time, I started to detail the sidewalls in which there are many bits & bobs that mainly are mini models in their own right..
 
starting with the R/H wall - here we have a conduit housing on the far left, a big brass ki-gas pump, a sort of pull handle on the top rail and a couple of push switches...
 

 

 

 
..on the L/H wall a trim wheel made from laminates of 0.5mm ply, some big ratchet handle and a small lever quadrant on the top rail - there is another one on the far side of the rail not shown..
 

 
..and again, it's a matter of constant dry fitting in the jig to make sure everything can co-habit with everything else..
 

 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 
I have to say though, I am really enjoying this build and have started to prepare for the bigger questions it will ask of me - things like vac forming the basic fuselage off a basswood master and looking at the best way to construct the wings following the Alcorn / Lee book
 
anyways, until next time..
 
TTFN
Peter

Thank you chaps - very kind
 
 
 
Hi Alain - thanks - no, no clear finish, I almost want them to oxidise to give a bit of age to things
 
 
 
 
Gotta call that out Ben - totally untrue! I have seen what you do and it scares me - you easily have this sort of stuff in your locker
 
I thought I might change things up a bit having been in the 'pit for a few weeks (and while I search for pics or drawings of the ammo boxes / chutes...) so thought I might make a start on the lower wings. These are more simple than the uppers (no ailerons) so are better candidates to learn on..
 
.. I copied the techniques in the Alcorn book - they made it look straightforward
 
..first up make a brass template of the rib - thankfully these are constant chord across the span until it gets to the tip.. the holes they are pinned through are the centrepoints of the two tubular spars and match the mounts on the brass tube fuselage section...
 

 
after making about 30, they are put together as a laminated block (using broaches to align them), clamped and finished to all are identical.. as the book says, they were taken out and 'shuffled' a few times to get them equal..
 

 
 
..i created a drawing of the wing with the outline & rib position marked and then stuck lots of little plastic 'U' channel strips where each rib meets the leading edge. The leading edge itself was a bit of half round plastic strip..
 

 
 
...cut the tip shape from black plastic card so I can see the midpoint during sanding later and stuck those to carbon rod spars..
 
..also made a jig for each wing so the assembly is flat & true..
 

 
..started adding the ribs having reamed the holes to fit the spars as a tight fit..
 

 
..there is a loose rib yet to be attatched at the root so the root rib is double thickness..
 

 
..added the ribs to the tip as blanks and sanded them down, also added a folded litho trailing edge for a nice crisp edge..
 

 
 
..added lots of sheet strengtheners - even with these the wing doesn't have a great deal of torsional strength against twisting, so will have to watch for that..
 

 
 
..also added mounts for interplane struts and rigging... just thick 3mm card & brass tubes for now
 

 
 
..then realised I had not allowed for dihedral (doh...)
 
..so I put a slit in each spar and built a jig so I could crack them and CA at the right angle... once that was done I added a brass rib at the canted angle and backfilled with CA to surround the cracked spars - all seems strong enough thankfully..
 

 
 
..and now I have started experimenting with scoring ribs into sheet with a ballpoint pen in order to skin them... I will most likely do one big skin and wrap around the leading edge..
 

 
..this is all uncharted territory for me, so we will see how it goes
 
TTFN
Peter
 

Thanks all.
These last few days have all been about the nacelles/wheel wells. They are seriously complex with not only the number of parts, but the fitment. The nacelles themselves are each made up of two horizontal side bulkhead rails, followed by 8 small vertical bulkhead pieces a side, times 4, + the main forward U shaped bulkhead, all made out of very thin resin that is extremely fragile. 
The only good news here is that I got a lot of the most tedious elements out of the way 2 years ago before I put it down, in having already cut out the seemingly hundreds of holes in the bulkheads. This was done with a variety of sharpened brass tube. This just left the parts themselves to be cut out and sanded smoothed which in itself is a tremendously tedious task as each rib has to be labeled and kept track of, and which side it does on:
 

 
 
 
 
One tube for port and one for starboard:
 

 
 
 
 
Each of the 4 main horizontal ribs had notches for each vertical rib, and were even easier to snap in twain
 

 
 
 
 
Since it was now time to deal with the nacelles and wells, I knew it was time to then fix the port nacelle, which had its trailing end filled with resin. So in seeing  this 2 years ago I promptly cut off the trailing end of the nacelle, and hollowed out the resin with a cone sanding bit in my Dremel. However, right after that the overall tediousness of the build caught up with me and I put the whole thing aside. 
 
Fast forward to 2020, and I had to make a tiny jig to seat things right, as there are some complex curves to the rear of the Tigercat nacelles I used some extra tick gap filing CA to glue the rear portion on, then slathered on the MS 500:
 

 

 
 
 
 
Height and shape seem about right when comparing the sbd nacelle:
 

 
 
 
 
Once the port nacelle had set up and had things sanded a bit, I set about dumping each sides clear tube of bulkhead pieces out, and gluing them in one by one. I did end up adding a piece of small hardened wire to the forward gear well bulkhead, as it was very flimsy, and the bulkhead didn't look right bowed in:
 

 

 
 
 
 
All the bulkheads are installed, and the interior of the nacelles, firewalls and upper internal nacelle roof parts are ready for primer:
 

 

 

 

 

 
 
 
 
A view down into what you will see once installed, which is much less, especially once the gear is installed. The gear bays will definitely be busy when done however:, as I have a lot of small detailing to do and things to add that will need to come after paint, but before weathering:
 

 
 
 
 
Off to the spray booth these went, and got a few coats of MS 1500 black. In fitting the overhead parts of the rear bulkhead parts I found they were too long, but already installed. So to get them to fit, I cut them and took a small suction out of the center (the nacelles get "squeezed" together a bit to fit in the end) and will fill in later before full paint:
 

 

 

 
 
 
 
While that MS 1500 was hardening off, I started assembling the starboard engine mount parts. THIS is a section that has driven my OCD around the bend.............
 
 
 
There is absolutely NO direction on how to install these or even WHERE exactly to install them (no marks, holes or indicators what so ever as to where to drill) so this was all guess work and cursing. In the end, to my utter amazement I somehow managed to get the two main holes drilled fairly correctly and two of the cross braces initially installed:
 

 

 
 
Laying the recently sprayed nacelle over the engine bearer portion, so far yielded great results:
 

 

 

 
 
 
 
I guess it was at this point after ALL the tribulations of this kit I should have known something was about to go horribly wrong..................
 
SURE ENOUGH!!   I busted out the port side engine bearer parts and then had a bit of a head scratcher moment when I started comparing identical parts from the R and L sides:
 
 
 
 
Same part from the port side compared to the starboard side
 
?!?!?!?!
 

 
 
 
 
Ummmmmmm
 

 
 
 
 
This was getting ridiculous, and reminded me of the factory misaligned wing sections. Yikes. Well looks like Im off to the LHS to get some similar styrene rod to make my own mount!
 
Cheers till next time
 
 
 

Thank you for your kind comment.
I have already a Hasegawa P-40 squadron in 1/32 scale.
Looks like it won't be hard for me to set up a second squadron 

Wow that is fantastic!
bravo!!!

Another beauty, Tolga!
It seems you and the Hasegawa P-40 are a match made in heaven!

Wow that is fantastic!
bravo!!!

Enjoy
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 
 

Greetings.
 
This is my Revell 1/32 Mustang in colours of the Colonel Blakeslee c/o  335th Fighter Squadron , 4th Fighter Group , October 1944.
If you don’t know, Don Blakeslee was the American ace credited with having the highest number of missions (over 500 sorties / 1000 hours) in the ETO as well as leading the first unit of Mustangs over Berlin. Training with the RCAF in 1941, flying Spitfires, Thunderbolts and eventually Mustangs, one obituary described him as “the most decorated second world war US Army Air Force fighter pilot “ . A fascinating and inspiring character.
 
The P51D BuNo 4413779 was delivered to the unit on the 30th June 1944, and carrying the personal letter C, became Blakeslee’s mount till he was grounded for being “too valuable to loose” on 1st Nov 1944. The 27 year old Colonel Blakeslee didn’t go in for nose art or victory markings, but always flew C for Charlie as he reckoned it stood for “chief cook and bottlewasher”.
 
Service records show this aircraft belly landed on 1st Nov 1944 at RAF Harrowbeer near Plymouth in Devon  (quite some distance from “home” at RAF Debden in Essex) and this may be part of the reason Blakeslee’s flying days were considered done . Growing up a Plymouth boy, I spent a lot of my teenage years wandering around that old RAF base imagining the wartime exploits 40 years earlier, it was also popular as a place to learn to drive Dad's car. The aircraft was repaired and went on to serve with other pilots of the 335th until the end of the war, being scrapped in September 1945.  There is now a replica on the UK airshow circuit G-SHWN. I found a picture of 4413779 dated between 10th and 27th October, just a couple of weeks before the landing at Plymouth.  Shows the recently applied red canopy framing, white tail and an OD wing fillet taken from a 336th aircraft.
 
2020 has been a busy year for me in my usual armour arena: 4 Battle of the Bulge,  4 Normandy , 5 other dioramas, two 1/48 jets plus other odds and sods,  and so I decided I wanted to try something different and new . So… let’s have a go at Alclad NMF ….. Mustang seems a good subject (never made one in any scale before - i'membarrassed how is that possible ??) Bought the Revell kit as it was all going to be a bit experimental, and if it goes wrong then, er ,no great loss, and ………sheez.......... it’s only got Olive Drab as the kit offerings  …no …no …..NO more olive drab !!! So looked around for a more suitable NMF Mustang and decided to do this particular aircraft instead.  
 
Mostly out of box, made a dinghy (?) for the seat and some homemade belts, and also the specific aircraft markings as couldn’t find a set in 1/32. Also had a  go with using Flory wash instead of the usual oils, so as ever, a few firsts with every model. Hope you enjoy.
 
Guy  
 
PS Hope you don’t mind a sneaky last pic of the previous model I completed before starting this one, and perhaps the nemeses of the 8th Air Force…., a Dragon 88mm  Flak 36 .
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

This is my 8th Hasegawa s Warhawk . And the next one is a long tail P-40F rolling to the painting process.

Hello everyone,
This is my recently finished 1/32 Hasegawa P-40 (M) Kittyhawk Mk.III with the markings of GA M FR864 from  RAF 112 Sqn  North Africa 1943.
Cockpit modified by Eduard PE set.
I have used Eduard s exhausts and Wheel sets.
Paints : Gunze and Tamiya acrylics.
Sharkmouth painted by using "DN models" customized masks.
Happy modelling
 

Looks MOST excellent!   Really well done. 
 
If you are ever so inclined, try thinning the MS foil glue with 91% alcohol and shoot it through an airbrush. If you lay the foil down on a giant tile shiny side up, and with some water and a car body putty smoother, smooth out the foil to a perfectly flat pose. Then you can lay down the glue in very thin even layers, and it really reduces the amount of marks that come through the foil after its burnished
 

 
 
 
 
Congrats on a VERY nice model! 

First Pfeil finished Eduard wheels HGW seat belts Master gun barrels All colour MRP.