radial

I agree with Walker. Do basic decals and let the aftermarket do the rest. I'm biased because my plan is to do the cowled and spatted Red Baron flight team scheme. Just gimme the plastic!

Hope you sort out the PB thing as I would really like to follow your scratch building techniques.

My last total scratchbuild cost in the neighborhood of $ 800 in material costs alone. So IMHO kits are cheap.

For sure an exceptional display of modeling.

Martin, Would you be offering the Fairchild as kit?

How bout parts photos of the P6 E and the Stearman like you did with the Bulldog. Will buy both. 30's bipes all the way!

Very well done. Especially impressed with the base. Congrats!

What a fantastic build! I especially enjoy your clear and concise WIP's. Thank you for the foiling tutorial

Got first place at the NATS with the Waco! And as a bonus met a bunch of LSPers too"

Right now halfway to Loveland. In Lincoln NE. A wave to Brian as I passed Omaha. It looks like its on in the scratchbuilt category.!... Maybe I should turn around and go back to chitown LOL.

This is special. You captured the brutishness of the 17

You might try painting the red band then cut the checker squares out of white decal trim sheet. May get some bleed through.

Thanks for all the great ideas gents. I'll probably be using a combination of filling the seam, painting and decal strip. Thanks Paul and Geoff for the kind comments. Here's another peak.

Scratch Waco SRE. I have to join the top wing to this build after all the final paint and decalling is done. The question is how to eliminate the seam with minimal damage to the surrounding paint work. Any advice would be appreciated.

Wow, makes my struggles with scratch single engine A/C look puny. Curious, why 1/35 scale?

Do not like MLDF because on large scale big decals there are noticeable brush strokes/ marks. Have always used any gloss lacquer in cans or airbrushed. The key is a very lightly misted first coat and letting it dry for at least 4 hrs. A second light coat and your good to go. Because of the "hot" nature of lacquer wet coats will run the ink or cause crackling.

Thanks for the concise description of your foiling process. I've been practicing on a mule model for about a year and my problem area has been tight concave sections like wing fillets. Between you and Brian this is great information!

I find myself over buying materials and supplies particularly solvent items for fear they will not be available in the future. Not a vulture but maybe a doomsday prepper.

You might want to use the shaped nose plug as a mold to crash form the correct shaped nose. Good work so far!

Exceptional work! Looking forward to your foiling process for tightly curved areas.

For latches you might try thin slices of chrome automotive pinstriping. It's slightly thicker than Mylar and self adhesive. Been liking your build!

Brian, thanks for your concise description of the foiling process. You've already answered 10 questions about foiling I didn't even know I had!! Keep up the good work.

Go to the Williams Bros. website. They do most of the golden age racers that are available in 1/32. I've built several and they are pretty good.

Very very good rendition of rarely seen subject!

Excellent work going on here! Especially looking forward to the foiling process as I've been experimenting with foil in for the last 8 mos. I have followed yours and Foilers tutorials. You guys make it look easy....it ain't.