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Wolf Buddee

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Everything posted by Wolf Buddee

  1. Even in’ all, Decal application has continued on the wings and some paint has been applied to the fuselage and the upper surface of the top wing in preparation of more of Aviattic’s decals for the Dr. 1. It’s starting to appear obvious which colour scheme I’m going for. Aviattic has released a decal sheet set for this specific aircraft but I had already bought the varnished faded streaked decals for the Dr. 1 and I didn’t want to pay for another set so the final model may look a bit different but I’m going to be OK with that. It should look very nice just the same. The metal center wing section was painted RLM 83 Dark Green from my diminishing stash of Aeromaster paints. The same was done for the metal sections on the forward fuselage. Cheers, Wolf PS. Thank-you folks for all your above comments and encouragement. Much appreciated!
  2. Yes, I think I have a picture of it somewhere, I’m sure of it. Beautiful cockpit Kev. Lookin’ forward to seein’ more. Cheers, Wolf
  3. What Kevin just said, outrageously good, and if it’s said twice it must be true! Cheers, Wolf
  4. Outstanding work once again Pete! I love the added details like the braided lines. I’m guessing that’s from anyz? I have a bunch of their stuff but haven’t put much of it to good use yet. Cheers, Wolf
  5. Your figure painting looks great Matt, However, from what I see, the facial features are not cast as nicely as the rest of the figure. That has nothing to do with the way you painted it. Ya work with what ya have, right? Cheers, Wolf
  6. Thanks Matt, I forgot the mention that I dry brushed the breeches and the cocking mechanism with Mr. Metal Steel paint as well to highlight some of the details. Cheers, Wolf
  7. Wow Andy, ……….and the fun never stops eh? Canopy cutting can definitely be a challenge but a nice sharp razor saw should do the job very nicely. It surely spoils us rotten when we start building a Tamiya kit. Cheers, Wolf
  8. There’s only one problem that I can think of John, You’re going to do such an amazing job on this build that I’m going to want to buy one too. Drat and double drat you John! Cheers, Wolf
  9. More progress has been made on the Dr.1. I built up the Spandau MGs using Master brass barrels and cooling jackets. The assemblies were given a primer coat of Tamiya’s Fine White Primer and then sprayed with Gunze Mr. Metal Dark Iron. The feed and empty cartridge chutes were painted with Alclad II dark aluminum and the ammunition, as before, with Gunze Mr. Metal Polished Brass. The belt itself is, again, a strip of Aviattic’s linen decal. The last steps included a black wash and applying MIG’s gunmetal powder by burnishing it in with an old paintbrush. I also decided I would paint the wing, cabane, landing gear struts, and engine cowling in their red colour. I mixed the red from Tamiya’s lacquer spray TS-8 Italian Red and TS-11 Maroon. I initially used Tamiya’s acrylic paint in the recommended ratios from the Dr.1 painting guide supplied in the WnWs instructions included in the Baron’s Albatross kits but didn’t care for the way they sprayed or covered. So it was back to my “never have failed me yet” Tamiya spray lacquers. The wings were also started. First a coat of Tamiya’s white primer and then a top coat of Tamiya’s TS-7 Racing White. It’s a beautiful creamy white and works perfectly as a base for Aviattic’s linen effect decals and it lays down wonderfully smooth and glossy. For those of us that don’t have access to MRP paints it’s a great alternative. Once completely dry i started applying Aviattic’s decals to the wing bottoms first. I constantly worked the water out from under the decals, first with a large paint brush, and then a moisten Q-Tip. In areas where the decals had to conform over the wing strut attachment points and the scalloped trailing edges I used Solvaset decal softener. A couple of small spots showed signs of slivering but poking the decal with the point of a new #11 blade and more Solvaset solved the problem. I found you have to careful not to work the decals too hard otherwise you can damage the opaqueness of the decal especially once the softener has started to do it’s thing. Nonetheless the finished product looks terrific. The lower wing spar was done with my diminishing supply of red oak decal film. Cheers, Wolf
  10. Thanks Jim. That’s very kind of you to say! Cheers, Wolf
  11. Wonderful Mike! You definitely have this "wood and wire crate" building down to a fine art. Cheers, Wolf
  12. Thanks Anthony, A doll's house eh? Not going to happen my friend as there's too much in the stash already and I have an Airfix 1/24th Hellcat coming. Good grief! When does the acquisition phase end? Cheers, Wolf
  13. Hi Gary, I wouldn't fill and re-scribe the panel line at the front of the cowl. I'd glue a thin strip of styrene to the front of the cowl and sand it back until the gap was even at the bottom corners of the cowling. Don't get me wrong. What you were proposing would work but a little shim of styrene card sanded back to where you need it may be easier and you don't have to worry about scribing. Just a thought`............ Cheers, Wolf
  14. Beautiful work Mark! Love your paint work on the engines. It really highlights the fantastic detail. Cheers, Wolf
  15. Unreal Oliver! Incredible workmanship to say the very least…….. Cheers, Wolf
  16. Nicely done Ernest, I’m sure the crew will appreciate the irony of the escape hatch’s “Nicht Betraten” warning, LOL! Cheers, Wolf
  17. Hey Brett, Looking forward to seeing how your build progresses on this one. Cheers, Wolf
  18. Thank-you Andy, The build sequence for the underside and stitching detail is exactly the same as recommended by WnWs on their DVII kits. I said then too that I’d do the bottom with Archer’s stitching decals but for whatever reason I chose to ignore better judgment on this build. Cheers, Wolf
  19. Hi Ray, Yes, the flare rack and gun are included in the 1/32nd kit as well. Unfortunately the placement of the flare gun and it’s holder are rather vague. Luckily my particular subject doesn’t appear the have either one so it makes that bit rather easy for me. ………..and I heartily agree regarding the instructions. Meng’s instructions are nothing like the WnWs ones. Cheers, Wolf http://www.wingnutwings.com/ww/productdetail?productid=3205&cat=1# I found this though. If you scroll through the last few photos there’s one that shows the flare gun and it’s holder quite well.
  20. Thank-you Paul, The Tamiya tape was used to both protect the stitching detail from getting excess Mr. Surfacer on it but more importantly to keep from damaging the stitching detail with the Micromesh cloth during sanding. A tip I learned here from others builds. Cheers, Wolf
  21. Thanks for the reply to Matt’s question Sky. Yes, the machining marks were included in the Aviattic decal sheet I bought. I got the faded varnished streaked decals for the Meng kit before the MvR specific decals were released. IIRC the WnWs site explains how to do the machining marks with paint as a tip for the Fokker E.II and E.III (early) kits. Cheers, Wolf
  22. Hi Matt, For the most part your figure painting is looking awesome. However the facial features are a bit lacking! Cheers, Wolf
  23. I couldn't say it any better Tom! This build is Master Class of the highest order Sir Peter of Castle Tangmere! Cheers, Wolf (who will now resume simply gluing and painting plastic bits)
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