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Revell Me 109G-6 tweak list


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#1 thierry laurent

thierry laurent

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Posted 23 September 2013 - 02:26 PM

Hi Gents,

 

Here's my last effort. Any correction or update will be welcome, as usual.

 

I hope this will be useful for some of you!

 

I hope I'll have a little bit of time to convert this one as well as the old ones in a web publishing format... Wait and see!

 

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Messerschmitt Bf109G-6 late and early version TWEAKS LIST

 

 

TYPE: Messerschmitt Bf109-G-6/R3

 

SCALE: 1/32

 

COMPANY: Revell

 

KIT NUMBER: 04665 for the original release

 

MOLD CREATION DATE: 2013

 

 

TWEAKS LIST VERSION 1.0 (publication date: September 2013)

 

Compiled by Thierry Laurent

 

The following list is intended to help modelers in improving scale accuracy of an airplane model replica. In no way is it intended to support or be offensive towards a scale model company.
As such, it is only the result of a progressive process and is in no way intended to be absolute or even comprehensive. Hence, it is intended to focus on commonly admitted discrepancies and will probably not cover some errors. It is up to the modeler to decide whether correcting the listed issues is worth the time and money he will have to invest in the quest for accuracy process.

No aftermarket correction or detail set is mentioned in this document as the availability of such items may be very variable. Hence, refer to other LSP sections to find relevant information. Moreover, aftermarket sets do not necessarily correct all listed issues. Please refer accordingly to relevant documentation.

 

 

 

  1. GENERAL REVIEW

 

 

 

  • The kit is essentially made of flat light grey parts. The molding is generally crisp with engraved panel lines, rivets and details. However, some fuselage parts engraved details are softer (i.e. starboard nose insert) and there is flash here and there. General kit dimensions are nearly perfect and overall fit is excellent with some specific exceptions (nose inserts and upper wing parts). Some details have been simplified or are incorrectly depicted.

 

  • All panel lines and prominent rivets are recessed (more particularly on the belly and lower wings). However, there are no rivets where they were flushed (on the upper wings, the stabilators and the fuselage). Engine area has very well done door fasteners. Fabric surfaces are smooth with tape strips topped with delicate stitching detail.

 

  • Clear parts are very thin and transparent. They include wing lights, gun sights, “Galland” canopy armor, the cockpit fuel level check tube and the rear fuselage antenna base.

 

  • A lot of optional parts such as ones for G-5 or late G-6/G-14 versions are included. However, they are not always correctly identified as the kit only gives “early” and “late” G-6 options. Kit has:
  • two different styles of upper cowl panel,
  • two starboard nose sides including one with the gun bulge with the compressor housing seen on the G-5,
  • the standard steel head armour or “Galland” one,
  • MLG ribbed or smooth tire MLG plain or ribbed wheel hub,
  • open or closed LG doors,
  • windscreen with two small intakes or with the pistol port on the starboard side,
  • squared and Erla haube canopy,
  • standard or G-14/G-10 luggage/battery compartment door,
  • MG151/20 or Mk108 gun breech case in cockpit,
  • Standard ribbed or late-war wooden simplified cockpit floors,
  • REVI 12 and 16 gunsights,
  • Optional FuG16 Morane antenna mast,
  • Multiple choices for some hatches (e.g. for the nose oil tank, the MW50, etc.)

 

  • In the “not for use” parts, there are other optional parts:
    • the rear wheel tall leg
    • the late tall rudder with straight lower edge
    • the tail wheel fairings

 

  • A wing spar part ensures perfect dihedral and a good fit at the wing root.

 

  • All movable surfaces are separate (slats, flaps, ailerons, elevators, rudder, radiators and oil cooler flaps). Note that on the ground actual wing flaps were generally retracted.

 

  • The instruction sheet is poorly designed. Parts numbering has no obvious logic and each subassembly asks for searching parts on all sprues as their identifying letter is not used.

 

 

 

  1. FUSELAGE (from front to rear)

 

  • The three parts spinner is correctly shaped with an accurately tapered profile. The assembly results in the fact that the three propeller blade openings taper correctly with the accurate cropped teardrop shape. However, this has a drawback: there is no indentation between the spinner and its base plate. Moreover, removing the seam between the two main spinner parts is really difficult and time-consuming. The prominent rivets are also missing as the small raised data plates on the spinner and backing plate. Last, there is no hub detail on the propeller axis or blade root shank. A timesaving option: replace the spinner with an aftermarket one.

 

  • Profile of supplied propeller blades supplied is not correct for a VDM9-12087A propeller. Modifying the blades is a pain. The discrepancy is really obvious at the base as the actual propeller blade had a more cranked profile on its rear edge whereas the kit part has a smooth curve. They also look too pointy because they are too narrow. Replacing them with aftermarket is a solution as far as some are available. Replacing them with spare Hasegawa ones would improve the look in spite of the fact they are not fully accurate.
  • Above the exhaust stacks, Me 109G-6s have two small cowl cooling scoops. Oddly, they are not hollow whereas there is a recess in the nose and insert parts. Hollow their front face with a sharp blade and a half-moon shaped file.

 

  • Note the kit gives no vent tube option behind the starboard exhausts stack. The G-6/U4 (equipped with the Mk108 central gun) had this feature. G-6/U4 planes also used the round hatch located near the rear bottom edge of the starboard fuselage side. However, do not remove this hatch if you build an early G-6 with the MG-151/20. Indeed, the same hatch was also used to get access to the compressed air bottles used for the MG131 machine guns from the G1 to the early G-6 batches. The hatch disappeared later when the MG131 mechanism was modified. The handle located near the rear starboard edge of the canopy disappeared simultaneously.

 

  • Hollow-out the engine exhausts or replace them with aftermarket ones. Revel kit design asks for gluing them before closing the fuselage halves. This choice noticeably complicates the painting process. Even if this is not impossible, adding exhausts after fuselage assembly will ask for tedious modifications of the parts (such as making a box in each internal side of the nose to receive the line of exhausts and sand the exhausts support to get the minimum height to put them afterwards).

 

  • The two upper cowl panels are different. The first one with the pressed metal gun troughs is the typical original G-6 one and whereas the other with the insert gun troughs was generally used on G-5s it was also observed on some G-6s.

 

  • Note there is no panel line between the top cowl and the cowl sides, or at the front and rear of such side inserts. Fill and sand smooth the seam between the nose inserts and the cowl and fuselage parts. Take your time checking the location of each part and dry-fit more than once as the fit is not absolutely perfect. To ease the process, glue first the rear of each insert, let it dry and then glue the front section.

 

  • Some details are missing on the supercharger intake (parts 72-73): weld seams and eight screw heads around the forward lip. Moreover this lip is too thin. Adding a thin strip of plastic and sanding a little bit the front edge to get a thicker look would improve noticeably the situation. Using an aftermarket part is another possibility. According to the chosen airframe and theatre of operations, using a tropical filter is yet another possibility to hide the lip issue.  Note that the intake parts should show no seam with the fuselage as part of the intake has been molded with the fuselage.

 

  • MG 131 nose barrel parts 46 are plain, too thick and their ends are not hollowed. Hopefully, there are more accurate aftermarket alternatives with drilled gun sleeves.

 

  • Underbelly oil cooler housing is misshaped (part 64). Correcting this asks for a time-consuming job but the discrepancy is quite noticeable. Part should have a deeper cross section, wider and tapered sides and sharper front edges. The front intake shall have a 1mm smaller width and the rear ends are too straight. The flap door linkage is missing even if the hole used by this device is present in part 34. Note that the FO 870 type had a rod in front of intake mesh whereas FO 827 that was externally identical had none as the kit part. Correct the part or replace it with aftermarket parts.

 

  • Each MG 131 gun bulge has four small tabs whereas there are only two corresponding holes in the upper cowl edge and none in each cowling side panel. It is probably easier to remove the bulge lower tabs if you want to use the kit parts. Some thin filler is necessary to fill the seam between the “beules” and fuselage. However, as the parts are too flat and should be closer to each other on the nose, it is recommended to rebuild them, replace them with aftermarket ones (if available) or use more accurate plastic ones from another kit. Last, the small intake on the compressor bulge looks a little bit too small. The front end must be opened if the intake is present. This bulged fairing was common on the G-5 as well as on various batches of G-6/G-14 (applicable at least to most if not all Erla ones).

 

  • The starter crank hole shall be drilled on the starboard side (in front of the “beule”). Add a small tube deep inside the hole.

 

  • Check if the plane you want to depict had an air scoop under the windscreen starboard side (commonly seen of the pressurized G-5). If this was the case, open the aperture with the edge of a new scalpel blade. And deepen the flare pistol hole if it was present. Last, some late planes had no port scoop but a recessed air intake. So, check closely your references.

 

  • Replace DF FuG 16ZY loop antenna with the correct flat cross-section. Note that some planes had the drop-shaped support but not the antenna.

 

  • Drill the MG131 cartridges ejection holes in the belly and possibly add plastic card-made boxes to add depth to the chutes.

 

  • Add and drill the fuel fill ventilation outlet hole under the fuselage section 3. This should protrude from the belly. Add FuG25 IFF antenna under the same section 3.

 

  • Check position of trim tabs elevators as they were always offset on the ground.

 

  • Add antenna between the mast (part 169) and the tail mast (do not forget to add insulators).

 

  • Do not forget filling GM1/MW50 filler hatch if the use of such systems does not apply to the chosen airframe (starboard side of the spine behind the loop antenna). For a GM1-equiped plane, add the missing GM-1 decompression valve hatch (under the filler hatch).

 

  • Fill the starting system fuel filler hatch (starboard side of the spine near the tail) for an early G-6.

 

  • Do not forget to leave a seam on the top and bottom and rear fuselage sections.

 

  • The instructions ask for the use of part 69 for the tail wheel fairing but oddly the opening on this part is too small. It is probably a mistake as part 70 seems having the correctly sized hole to fit the leg oleo scissor.

 

  1. WING/WEAPONS

 

 

 

  • There is a riveted strip at the wing root that runs along the underside of the aircraft but does not continue to the top side. It should continue back to the vertical line on the wing root fairing.

 

  • Even if this is far less noticeable than on some kits, the model has a small step in the leading edges of the wing into which the slat retracts. On real airframe, the step is not thicker than the wing's aluminum covering. There are two solutions to fix this. The most accurate but also most complicated option asks for carefully cutting a thin piece of sheet styrene to fit into the slat well, with the sheet stock's thickness chosen to leave a very small step; cementing the filling piece into the slat well, being careful to keep the new step height constant; and then filing down the leading edge of the filling piece where it disappears under the slat. Second option is simpler: since the real aircraft's step is so small, an adequate and much easier fix would be simply to fill the step with putty and then file it to shape. Add one big bolt head (e.g. Grandt line) under the end of each arm of the opened leading edge slat.

 

  • The wing radiators are well done with inserts providing the radiator faces for both the front and rear. Add the missing flap actuating arm. Note that parts 26 (port) & 84 (starboard) labeled as “not for use” in the instructions must be put inside each radiator box to fully close it.

 

  • The wing flaps actuators are missing.

 

  • The strip near the upper wing tip shall cover the panel line. Moreover, as the strip on the full scale airframe was made of tape it shall be far less thick. Fill the line and sand a little bit the strips.

 

  • The wings have the four elliptical holes in the landing gear leg well. Add missing oleo actuator behind them. Moreover, as the canvas dust covers are absent, some missing hoses (radiator hydraulic lines) shall be added in each main LG well. The main well is probably the best released up to now in a kit regarding accuracy. However, assembly is not straightforward because of the number of parts.

 

  • The drop tank has very nice weld lines. However, the drain plug under the tank is missing, the shapes are not fully accurate and the seam line between the two halves is difficult to hide. There is an easy way to solve the major shape problem (the rear end of the tank): cut the pointy end to change the tank into the type with the blunt end. It is recommended replacing the drop tank hanging strap with a separate strip. Possibly replace with aftermarket parts. Update the drop tank anti-sway brace legs and add the fuel connectors.

 

  • The ETC rack part has not a correct streamlined shape. Front is too blunt and the part is a little bit too thick (the actual part was made of an embossed iron sheet). Moreover, the recessed holes are not correctly located. Correcting this is time-consuming. Do not use the part as such or replace it with an aftermarket one.

 

 

 

  1. COCKPIT

 

  • Take care when assembling the cockpit egg. Any error or misalignment will result in noticeable problems. The main drawback of this design is the seam to fill along the sill edge.

 

  • Kit gives two gunsight options: the REVI C12/D (part 18) and the 16B (part 19). Note that the 16B was commonly used on G-6s of the “early” type as named by Revell. This depended mainly on the production batches and gunsight could also be changed in the field. Revell uses clear plastic parts to have the gunsight glasses molded in situ. This is not a terrific idea as they are too thick. Moreover, the parts look anemic. Whatever gunsight you have to use, it is recommended to replace at least the glasses. A better option asks for full replacement. Check as well the gunsight support type and position as, on a parked aircraft, it was commonly folded to the starboard side (90° turn). The Revi 12 mount was always fixed (i.e. never intended to fold to the right). The initial Revi 16 gun sight mount was also fixed but a tubular mount similar to that used on the Me 262 was introduced later. This allowed the Revi 16 gun sight to be rotated to the right and stowed away from the line of sight. Last, do not forget adding the REVI power cable between the gunsight undersides and the front instrument panel.

 

  • Kit pedals are correctly shaped but far too thick. Sand them and drill holes or replace them with photoetched ones and add their leather straps. The lines located behind them are also missing but they are not visible when the kit is assembled.

 

  • The kit gives two gun breech cases. Take care as the instruction sheet misidentified the two types. The MG 151/20 parts shall be part 2 and 3 whereas the Mk 108 shall be the 4 and 5 ones. The MG-151/20 was the standard gun on the G-6. However, some of them were built as G-6-U4 by the Regensburg plant. This has nothing to do with the so-called “early” and “late” options given by Revell. So, check closely the production batch of the scheme you choose to use the appropriate gun features. In case of doubt, use the MG151/20 parts.

 

  • The kit gives two types of floor parts. By default, if you want to build an “early” (short tail) G-6, use the ribbed one (part 8). For a long tail plane, it depends. The wood one (part 7) was used on the late marks but this was not an absolute rule.

 

  • The control column (part 11) is not fully accurate. The trigger seems too large; the upper knob is missing as well as other details along the stick (including the small box and electrical hose). Correct it or replace it with an aftermarket one.

 

  • Kit has a clear tube to depict clear section intended to control fuel flow from external tank to internal ones. Unfortunately, a sprue attachment point is located on the line section that must be clear. Sand cautiously and use a little bit of liquid glue to restore the smooth and clear look.

 

  • Oxygen hose is correct but a little bit stiff. Add aftermarket oxygen panel gauge decals as Revell forgot including them.

 

  • Some boxes are missing on the front part of the starboard side. Add missing wires and details on the cockpit sides and on the right side of the floor (throttle, oxygen system, fuse box wires, etc.).

 

  • Port side air vent is not correctly located. Moreover, the support frame of both vents is absent. So, sand both air vents and put scratchbuilt ones. Add the port one 2 mm nearer the front of the pit. By the way the external and internal locations should logically be aligned.

 

  • The throttle handle is a little bit too thin.

 

  • The trim hand wheels do not have the control chains. Add aftermarket or scratchbuilt ones.

 

  • Note that on each side of the rear bulkhead, there are some very small drilled connectors. They shall be used to connect some of the missing electrical wires running on the floor and sides.

 

  • The seat belts are molded on the seat back and pan. Even a cautious painting will not result in an accurate result. Remove the seat belts and replace them with aftermarket ones. Add the shoulder belts attachment points on the rear edge of the cockpit sill. Note that removing the belts from the pan is far from easy. An option to ease the job: remove both sides of the pan, clean the part and replace the removed sides with plastic sheet.

 

  • Some details are missing behind the upper belts fixture points (e.g. tubes of the rear canopy structure).

 

  • Revell gives two types of personal luggage compartment door: “early” and “late” types. This is incorrect. Normally, all G-6s used the “early” one (part 22) even if there were some exceptions. The “late” one had a bulge because the battery was relocated on later marks (G-14 and G-10). This was linked to the use of the simplified MW50 system.

 

  • For the “late” version, Revell asks for the use of part 26. In fact, this was part of a demisting device used on G-10 batches. As such, this is not a feature of “late” G-6 planes.

 

 

  1. CANOPY

 

 

  • Add the two missing handholds on the top of the internal side of the windscreen part.

 

  • The use of thicker armored glass was one of the changes incorporated in the G series. So, the G-6 had no additional armored glass on the windscreen. To add the armored glass inside and not on the windscreen, it is safer to use gloss coat or Future/Klear.

 

  • Kit gives the standard squared canopy as well as the later Erla one. However, this “early” and “late” rule is not a hard one. Indeed, this does not mean that the Erla was only used on the tall tail planes. Some Erla canopies were retrofitted in the field and some planes were rebuilt. So all tail-canopy combinations are possible.

 

  • Early rear canopy part fit is correct thanks to a big lip on the cockpit rear wall edge. However, this creates a problem for the use of the Erla haube as the lip was not present on the full scale airframe. Actually, the canopy overlapped the edge of the bulkhead. 

 

  • Kit has the Erla canopy with the mast relocated on the canopy (part 169). However, some retrofitted planes had a fixed antenna mast on the fuselage spine. In this case, a reversed U-shaped rod was added near the rear bulkhead edge to support the mast. Keep this in mind if you choose the “late” option as this will ask for correction if the airframe has been retrofitted with this type of mast. Note that from end of 1944, the mast disappeared.

 

  • Take care when looking at Erla canopy pictures as there were at least two main families of canopies: the first one was intended to be used on airframes initially built to use the early “squared” canopy without modification (including recycled airframes such as a lot of G-10s). The second one (used on new marks such as the K4) used another type of locking device. This is visible on the rear part of the canopy port side edge.

 

  • The canopy hinge linked to the starboard cockpit side is far too large. This is a compromise between strength and accuracy.

 

  • The canopies have the release lever but the knob is noticeably too small. For the earlier canopy, add the missing clear knobs as well as the retainer spring lock (with spring-shaped copper wire). Detail internal side of canopy parts: add plastic strips with white glue or Klear to simulate sliding glass panes of the early type. This is particularly necessary for the moving central canopy part. For the Erla canopy, add the retainer spring lock and some rods may be used to mimic the internal structure of the canopy. Check the correct position of the canopy retaining wire and lock as Revell oversimplified this. Note that on most Erla canopy-equiped planes, the attachment point was right in the middle of the rear bulkhead width but the location proposed by Revell is correct for some planes (e.g. this was observed on some G-5/AS)

 

  • Decrease thickness of pilot head armor part on the early armor type.

 

 

 

 

  1. LANDING GEAR

 

 

 

  • Kit gives two options for rims and tires. The latter 660x160 smooth tires were commonly seen from 1944. However, pictures show that there is no hard rule regarding the types on the different airframes. Smooth rims and tires were simply more common later in the war.

 

  • Add flexible brake hose on each main landing gear leg (between the wheel and the leg).

 

  • Main landing gear door kit part actually depicts two different parts on the actual airframe. A large ejection mark is unfortunately located on the internal side of the rear section.

 

  • The multipart landing gear legs are accurately detailed but tedious to assemble. Removing the seams is a lengthy job.

 

 

 

  1. OTHER REMARKS

 

 

 

  • The Revell decal sheet is correct but has no Swastika to comply with German legal rules. Both schemes refer to G-6 planes. However, there is a problem for the second decal scheme. Pictures of this plane show it had the MG 151/20 R6 equipment. However, lower wing parts have no detail for the gun rützsatz (on the outboard panel just after the edge of wheel bay). So, the appropriate rounded hatch that was only present on Kanonenboot planes equipped with MG151/20 gun gondolas must be added.

 

  • Similarly, if you want to convert the kit into a bomber buster with W. Gr42 Spr. 21cm rockets, add the relevant elliptical hatch and four small holes. This appeared from fall 1944 except on some earlier planes already equipped. Note that this equipment asked for the addition of a small control panel under the IP (normally at the left of the JaBo panel discussed hereunder)

 

  • The kit may be easily converted into a pressurized G-5 airplane or a G-5 modified into a G-6-like plane (removed pressurization system). To build an “archetypal” G-5, here’s a commonly accepted list of different features:

 

  • Use the compressor teardrop-shaped bulge on the starboard side,

 

  • Modify part 52 to keep only the starboard scoop (in fact the pressure relief valve cover) on the windscreen,

 

  • Use the pressed upper cowling,

 

  • Add the silicate dehumidifier capsule in the canopy parts. This is particularly visible in the bottom of the front armored glass and on the sides of the windscreen as well as in the corner of each glass of the squared canopy. The capsule had a purple/red-brown color. If you want adding this detail, here is probably the easiest solution to engrave the disk: use a grainer watchmaker tool of the appropriate diameter and paint the disks with a mix of purple and clear.

 

  • Modify the upper armor in the canopy to change it into the specific vertical type used in the G-5.

 

  • The plane also had a high pressure relief valve at the upper level of the aforementioned canopy armor and a quick action compensating valve located in the cockpit. Such elements were removed if the pressurization device was deactivated. This was commonly the case when a modified G-5 received an Erla canopy.

 

  • The kit may be easily changed into a G-14. Initially, the G-14 was intended to be a standardized G-6 with the MW50 system. However, it seems that some late G-6s used the MW50 (probably a conversion from the GM-1). Moreover, the G-14 standardization goal was never reached. Currently, it seems that the only way to make the difference between some G-6s and G-14s is the serial number. So, from a single picture it is often impossible to identify the type without any doubt.

 

  • The kit gives most parts to build different the G-14 batches. To build an “archetypal” G-14, here’s a commonly accepted list of different features:
    • Use the “late” features of the instruction sheet. However, keep in mind that there were a lot of variations between G-14 batches.

 

  • Step 16 of instructions asks for filling the upper round hatch located on the port side of the nose end. The upper one was used to get access to the filling cap of the oil tank when the larger 50l annular oil tank type (normally associated with the DB605D) was used on later 109 marks. So, for a G-6 and G-14s equipped with the smaller 35l tank, this one must be filled in. However, for Erla built G-14s, the higher round filler hatch shall be kept. So, according to the chosen airframe, fill the upper one, the lower one or only the details of the lower one and simulate a weld on its round edge (modified airframe).

 

  • Many G-14s (at least the Erla-built ones) used the G-5 type engine cowling with the compressor bulge on the starboard side. However, note that the small air intake was often absent.

 

  • The G-14 used the “JaBo” small switch panel under the standard instrument panel.

 

  • Only G-14/U4 planes used the round hatch located near the rear bottom edge of the starboard fuselage side.

 

  • The handle located near the rear edge of the canopy was not used on the G-14.

 

  • Look closely at the rudder type to use. With some slight changes to the tabs, the two tall rudder options given in the kit allow the creation of nearly any type. The rounded bottom use was more common on early G-14s whereas the straight bottom use was rather used on later batches.

 

  • If the chosen airframe used the tall rear wheel, use part 166 rather than part 163.

 

  • As aforementioned the use of the MW50 required the move of the plane battery because of the installation of the tank behind the cockpit rear bulkhead. So, part 23 must be used.

 

  • All G-14s had the Erla Haube.

_________________________________________________________________________________

 

 

The list of references about the Messerschmitt 109 is an endless one. The list author focused on sources that are more oriented towards plane components rather than plane colors. Many excellent books have been printed about the later topic but this is out of the limited scope of such a list. As such, sources dedicated to Luftwaffe paints and camo, 109s colors or 109s used by Germany allies have not be used here.

 

Accordingly, the following sources were used to build this list:

 

Modelling essentials:

 

  • Abe, Yokoyama & Kano, Messerschmitt Bf 109 G-6, Modeler's Eye series N° 3, Dai Nippon Kaiga, 2002.
  • Hladik, Sumichrast & Andal, Messerschmitt Bf-109G-6, HT Model Special N°909, no publishing date.
  • Green, Revell’s 1:32 messerschmitt Bf 109 G-6, ADI publishing, 2013.
  • Nohara & Shiwaku, Messerschmitt Bf 109 G, Aero Detail series, N°5; Dai-Nippon Kaiga Co., Ltd., 1992.
  • Peczkowski, Messerschmitt Bf-109G, Mushroom model magazine special Vol.1, N° 6011, 2000.
  • Peczkowski, Messerschmitt Bf-109G, Mushroom model magazine special Vol.1, N° 6112, 2004.
  • Plewka & Zelechowski, Bf 109 G-6, N°11004, Kagero, 2005.
  • Prien & Rodeike, Messerschmitt Bf 109 F, G, & K Series – An illustrated Study, Schiffer, 1993.
  • Ritger, The messerschmitt 109 Part 2: ‘F‘ to ‘K‘ Variants, Modellers datafile 10, SAM Publications, 2007.
  • Stapfer, Messerschmitt Bf 109G Walkaround, Number 43, Squadron Signal, 2006.
  • ---,  Messerschmitt Bf 109 G/K Augsburg Eagle, Model Art Special Issue series N°290, Model Art, 1987.
  • ---, Messerchmitt Bf-109G in Detail, Militaria in Detail, Wydawnictwo Militaria, 2000.

Other used references:

  • Beaman, Last of the Eagles, self-published, 1976.
  • Beaman, Messerschmitt Bf 109 in Action Part 2, Aircraft in Action series, N° 57, Squadron Signal Publications, 1983.
  • Donald, Messerschmitt Bf 109 – Supermarine Spitfire – Supermarine Seafire, Air Combat Legends Vol.1, Airtime Publishing, 2005.
  • Fernandez-Sommerau, Messerschmitt Bf 109 Recognition Manual, Classic Publications, 2004.
  • Green, Augsburg's Last Eagles: Colors, Markings and Variants, Eagle Files series N° 3; Eagle Editions, 2000.
  • Hitchcock, Messerschmitt 'O-Nine' Gallery, Monogram Aviation Publications, 1973.
  • Hitchcock, Gustav: Messerschmitt 109G Part 1, Monogram Close-Up series N°6, Monogram Aviation Publications, 1976.
  • Janowicz, Messerschmitt Bf-109G, Vol. 2, N°22, Kagero, 2005.
  • Janowicz, Messerschmitt Bf-109G, Vol. 3, N°29, Kagero, 2006.
  • Mermet, Les Messerschmitt Bf 109 G-1 a K-4 - Moteurs et Aménagements , self-published, no date
  • Mermet, Messerschmitt Bf 109 G & K, Aero Journal HS 1, Caraktere Editions, 2008.
  • Merrick, German Aircraft Interiors 1935-1945: Vol. 1, German Aircraft Interiors series, No. 1, Monogram Aviation Publications, 1996.
  • Michulec, Messerschmitt Me 109 pt. 2, Aircraft Monograph series, N°17; AJ Press, 2002.
  • Michulec, Messerschmitt Me 109 pt. 3, Aircraft Monograph series, N°18; AJ Press, 2002.
  • Plewka, Messerschmitt Bf-109G, Vol. 1, N°19, Kagero, 2005.
  • Verlinden & Letterman, Messerschmitt Bf 109 G-2, Lock On Aircraft Photo File series N° 28; Verlinden Publications, 1997.
  • Wolowski, Bf 109 Late versions camouflage & markings, White Rainbow Series N°9110, MMP books, 2010.
  • ---, Messerschmitt Bf 109 / Focke Wulf Fw 190, Maru Mechanic series N° 50, Maru, 1985.
  • ---, Messerschmitt Bf109,  Military Aircraft Special issue, Delta Publishing, 2001.

 

  • Buffie’s Best Cd-ROM, Me-109 G-10, Restorations Illustrated Vol.1.

 

  • some magazines articles (more particularly from Replic & IMPS Belgium)

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#2 thierry laurent

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Posted 23 September 2013 - 02:28 PM

Do not look at section numbers! The conversion from Word to the forum publishing format seemingly created some problems...



#3 Mark P

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Posted 23 September 2013 - 02:46 PM

Attempting to get all the corrections required on any Bf 109 G kit is no small task. Especially given the numbers of "experts" out there.

 

Kudos to Thierry for his rather exhaustive listing provided here!

 

Mark Proulx


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#4 dodgem37

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Posted 23 September 2013 - 02:49 PM

I second that emotion!

 

Sincerely,

Mark



#5 reconspit

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Posted 23 September 2013 - 03:08 PM

... you must have a lot of Time...:-)
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#6 LSP_Mike

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Posted 23 September 2013 - 03:11 PM

Thanks Thierry! That is a very comprehensive list, and is sure to be of great help.


in progress:

 1/32 Hase Me-109G2/R6
1/35 Su-85/ winter- attach to base
1/32 DH-9a USMC- Delivered to Flying Leathernecks Museum, MCAS Miramar
1/32 Mig-3:winter paint and weathering: in progress and base
Yacht America need some parts.

I'm so far behind, I think I'm in first place...
Yes, I built models when I was a kid too.... no they're not toys....


#7 thierry laurent

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Posted 23 September 2013 - 03:37 PM

... you must have a lot of Time...:-)

 

I'd like to!

 

In fact you'd be surprised to know how I'm finding the time to do this!

 

I've to commute regularly to Brussels. When I'm fed up by the traffic jams, I leave the BMW at home and take the train!

So,  I'm writing this in the...train!  I take some basic notes at home. Then, I bring a laptop, three or four books and the kit instruction sheet with me when I'm taking the train. As the two ways journey to Brussels asks for more or less two hours and a half, I do this to avoid losing my time...!

 

At least, this is useful for me (saving my time when I'm working on a kit) and for others!


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#8 KOTR

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Posted 23 September 2013 - 04:35 PM

A cheer for the public transport system! :lol:

 

Thanks for your efforts, Thierry! :)


There's nothing like bad fit, there is just not enough putty...

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#9 Hagar

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Posted 23 September 2013 - 04:40 PM

Thanks for the comprehensive rundown. I have been looking at mine and trying to decide how to start. I got the ADH book that was made for this kit, but it isnt especially helpful. This list on the otherhand is straight to the point. Again, thanks.

James



#10 Guest_Nigelr32_*

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Posted 23 September 2013 - 04:48 PM

What a great piece of work Thierry, you really have done a lot of people one big favour there.



#11 harvey

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Posted 23 September 2013 - 05:35 PM

Good job ! Thanks.........Harv


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#12 Wurzacher

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Posted 23 September 2013 - 06:13 PM

Thierry, my greatest thanks for all the work and effort you invested in this extensive research! Much appreciated! apple%20service%20smilie%20clap.gif


Thomas

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#13 thierry laurent

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Posted 24 September 2013 - 06:54 AM

Thanks for the support!

 

I still have to end the Eduard Emil one and the Trumpeter G-6 one...!



#14 D.B. Andrus

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Posted 26 September 2013 - 01:18 AM


  • Kit has the Erla canopy with the mast relocated on the canopy (part 169). However, some retrofitted planes had a fixed antenna mast on the fuselage spine. In this case, a reversed U-shaped rod was added near the rear bulkhead edge to support the mast. Keep this in mind if you choose the “late” option as this will ask for correction if the airframe has been retrofitted with this type of mast. Note that from end of 1944, the mast disappeared.

 

 

 

Thierry

 

Here is an example of the Erla haube retrofit. Also included are parts from the original 3 piece canopy, the battery box modification and an unusual fitting for this a/c (listed originally as a G-6AS): the de-mist device and it's mounted in front of the armor plate. I've never seen it mounted this way before.

 

G-6AScockpit_zpsdf7143a4.jpg

 

HTH,

 

D.B.


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#15 thierry laurent

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Posted 26 September 2013 - 08:42 AM

Very interesting picture!!!

Indeed, I never saw such a configuration...!

 

This is somewhat odd as I previously guessed that the heating hose location coming from the rear bulkhead as well as the Galland armor in the canopy had standard locations!?! It seems there were variations...

If this is indeed a G-6AS (the retrofit of the canopy indicating this may be the case), the different configuration is probably related to the fact that such planes were conversions of existing Gustav airframes. I think that the addition of the DB605AS engine as well as some new items such as the one piece canopy or demisting device resulted in modifications that evolve. The best proof being probably the mast location evolution (newly built planes had the mast on the canopy).

 

The Me 109 never ceases amazing me!






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