Erwin Posted April 24, 2018 Share Posted April 24, 2018 (edited) Hi all, The overall paint work on the Rufe is done. But it looks very bright and to fresh. How can I fill the panel lines and rivits with black or dark grey ? I paint with enamels.So it can't be water based. How can I make what is mostly called a "wash" ? Edited April 24, 2018 by Erwin sandokan and Gigant 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1to1scale Posted April 24, 2018 Share Posted April 24, 2018 if you are painting with enamels, i would think you want water based, so they do not react with the paint. since enamels are spirit based, you do not want to use washes that are the same, or you will destroy your finish, stay away from AK or Tamiya. Flory makes a water/clay wash, and Vallejo makes a acrylic/pigment based wash. If you seal the paint with lacquer clear, then you can also use oils and thinners to make a wash. Shawn M 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shawn M Posted April 24, 2018 Share Posted April 24, 2018 Florys washes are excellent and will be just fine atop enamels. If you must use enamels, lay down an acrylic gloss (or even future) to protect your paint, then use heavily thinned enamels to wash the panel lines. Personally, I'd use Florys or a home brew Tempra Paint wash vs. going Enamel on Enamel. A-10LOADER and Dragon 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Out2gtcha Posted April 24, 2018 Share Posted April 24, 2018 Yes both are correct, if you use enamel base paint, you want water/clay based wash to off-set, so it doesnt attack the paint. Flory models wash will work great, and easily wipe off, if the surface is gloss or semi-gloss. Just make sure not to put the Flory wash over flat paint. It will stain. After the effect you want is achieved, you can seal with a clear of your choice. Shawn M 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shawn M Posted April 24, 2018 Share Posted April 24, 2018 in some cases the staining is desirable, I actually like it. CANicoll and Out2gtcha 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gigant Posted April 24, 2018 Share Posted April 24, 2018 I would use this: AKA, Tamiya Enamel Wash Black, available from: https://www.1001modelkits.com/model-search?orderby=position&orderway=desc&search_query=wash Out2gtcha 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dennismcc Posted April 24, 2018 Share Posted April 24, 2018 Another vote for Flory wash, it's either that or use a very thinned grey or black mix in the airbrush to highlight panel lines, I work on the principal that if you can see it when airbrushing it's too much, keep it very light. The other thing to do to break up the just new finish is random spots of a lightened top colour. Cheers Dennis A-10LOADER 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Out2gtcha Posted April 24, 2018 Share Posted April 24, 2018 I would use this: AKA, Tamiya Enamel Wash Black, available from: https://www.1001modelkits.com/model-search?orderby=position&orderway=desc&search_query=wash I like the Tamiya panel line wash, but that would be a BIG issue on Erwins Rufe though, as he used enamels to paint it, and the enamel wash like this would destroy the painted finish. If he had used acrylics that indeed would have been perfect. Ive experimented with enamel washes over an enamel paint job, and it brings nothing but heartache, tears and bad things. coogrfan, Gigant and Shawn M 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gigant Posted April 24, 2018 Share Posted April 24, 2018 (edited) I like the Tamiya panel line wash, but that would be a BIG issue on Erwins Rufe though, as he used enamels to paint it, and the enamel wash like this would destroy the painted finish. If he had used acrylics that indeed would have been perfect. Ive experimented with enamel washes over an enamel paint job, and it brings nothing but heartache, tears and bad things. Did you clear-coat it first? Edited April 24, 2018 by Gigant Out2gtcha 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Out2gtcha Posted April 24, 2018 Share Posted April 24, 2018 Did you clear-coat it first? Depends on the clear. Normally if I don't have to clear, I don't. It tends to eat up detail if over done, and most of the time I prefer not to clear if I don't have loads of decals to apply, or if the surface will be a mat/flat surface anyway. If Irwin decides to clear, just make sure its not an enamel clear. Otherwise yes, if you use a lacquer or acrylic clear it should be less of a problem. I have occasionally still have run into issues with the enamel wash over a clear when it gets to thin spots. Occasionally you can run into areas of the clear that are thinner than others, and it can mar the paint. Generally Ive switched over to MRP paint, which is acrylic particulate in a lacquer medium, and that is the perfect base for all of the AKI, MIG and Tamiya type enamel washes. For enamel paint, Id still have to recommend a clay/water based type of wash myself. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gigant Posted April 24, 2018 Share Posted April 24, 2018 (edited) I always gloss clear-coat any dull/flat paint job, usually with an acrylic, before doing anything else. And I guess because I don't "lay it on thick" I haven't had the "detail-loss" issue. It also makes a great base for decals. Edited April 24, 2018 by Gigant Out2gtcha 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Erwin Posted April 24, 2018 Author Share Posted April 24, 2018 Thank you all . I will try "something" and let you see the result in my topic in the groupbuild. Shawn M 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shawn M Posted April 25, 2018 Share Posted April 25, 2018 keep us posted As I mentioned, I use Tempra paint (thinned HEAVILY) with water for washes as well. Comes in many colors, readily available and a large bottle will last for ever! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Erwin Posted April 28, 2018 Author Share Posted April 28, 2018 I went for matt enamel black with thinner as wash.Not to much.Just enough to make it dirty. After decals a coat of Pledge furniture oil. Trak-Tor, Shawn M, Gazzas and 6 others 9 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gigant Posted April 28, 2018 Share Posted April 28, 2018 Looks good to me. I like it better then the trend to give the seams and rivets more definition then the main overall finish that in some cases can make the plane look like a case for the scrap yard. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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