themongoose Posted May 12, 2017 Share Posted May 12, 2017 (edited) ...without breaking it? I have an idea for creating a 1/32 T-38 so I can complete a Thunderbirds aircraft from the Belcher bits resin kit and the Hasegawa kit. I need to cut 3/8" off the end of the canopy in order to make the middle section (for the pilot). I have two complete cockpits for the plane now. I will use the standard canopy for the rear seat. Sorry for the long explanation, thought it may help to describe what I'm doing so that if someone has a different idea they could toss that out too. Edited May 12, 2017 by themongoose Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shaka HI Posted May 12, 2017 Share Posted May 12, 2017 I'd use a nice, fine razor saw! Zero77 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_Kevin Posted May 12, 2017 Share Posted May 12, 2017 Pack out the underside of the canopy with some form of malleable putty or clay, otherwise you risk crushing or snapping the brittle clear plastic. Kev Gazzas, Shaka HI, Scale32 and 1 other 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hardcore Posted May 12, 2017 Share Posted May 12, 2017 This? http://www.radubstore.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=77_112&products_id=448 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DeanKB Posted May 12, 2017 Share Posted May 12, 2017 Pack out the underside of the canopy with some form of malleable putty or clay, otherwise you risk crushing or snapping the brittle clear plastic. Kev This? http://www.radubstore.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=77_112&products_id=448 These two are absolutely correct! I use Radu's razor saw, although I use the larger, fine saw blade. It gives a bit more solidity and cuts straight, just let the blade do the cutting and don't force it. Maybe use some thick Dymo label tape to mark the cut area, use it as a guide. http://www.radubstore.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=77_112&products_id=316 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
themongoose Posted May 13, 2017 Author Share Posted May 13, 2017 (edited) Ordered a Radu tonight. Will post a pic or two of how it goes! Edited May 13, 2017 by themongoose Joe66 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shawn M Posted May 17, 2017 Share Posted May 17, 2017 i used a pe saw and a scriber on my tiffy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dennismcc Posted May 18, 2017 Share Posted May 18, 2017 I would go down the packing the inside route but also use masking tape on the outside to protect the clear plastic from slips, the Radu saws as stated are superb for cutting. Cheers Dennis Shawn M 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shawn M Posted May 18, 2017 Share Posted May 18, 2017 yes, slips happen and cause sanding...and more sanding.....and more....you get the point Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Jessie_C Posted May 22, 2017 Share Posted May 22, 2017 You can also try scribing. Mark your cut line with a piece of Dymo tape, and then repeatedly run your scriber gently over the line, getting a little bit deeper with each pass. Once you have a nice deep mark the saw can't skip out of, then you can complete the cut with the saw. MikeMaben 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zero77 Posted May 23, 2017 Share Posted May 23, 2017 (edited) I usually use this kind of razor saw (JLC razor saw) when i need to cut clear resin or plastic. It works nicely, but you better protect the areas close to the cut (if your hand slips...). Since a few builds, i even use it to rescribe some panel lines, when the surface is not smooth, or on very curvy surfaces. Edited May 23, 2017 by Zero77 Shawn M 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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