alaninaustria Posted October 26, 2017 Share Posted October 26, 2017 Hej guys, am wondering how to fix the twisted wing halves on my Trump 1/32 Su-27UB kit... I tried running hot water and holding the top half on a perfectly flat glass slab I use for knife sharpening... and then using cold water to help set the new shape. It helped slightly, but the lower half is really twisted. Any recommendations? I was thinking of using a hair dryer with the wing halves tacked down using CA glue to the glass surface and then cool the halves off using cold water. What are your tips and tricks to fix a twisted wing? Cheers Alan Gigant 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gigant Posted October 26, 2017 Share Posted October 26, 2017 (edited) How flexible is it? That is, if the halves are clamped shut, can they be done so thus straightening the wing out? If so, I start at the wing root, using a CNA 10 second glue for the locating pin points, wait for it to set, then gradually work my way out to the wing-tip, with CNA at all the pin points along the way, applying Testors non-toxic cement along the seam halves between pin-points. Edited October 26, 2017 by Gigant Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kagemusha Posted October 26, 2017 Share Posted October 26, 2017 I wouldn't use a hair dryer, I'd tape it to the flat surface and keep putting it in hot water, even if it takes a couple of weeks or so. You could also try emailing these, they sell Trumpeter spares https://www.aliexpress.com/store/1970125 LSP_K2 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zero77 Posted October 26, 2017 Share Posted October 26, 2017 Are they still twisted if you tape them together tightly? I used to have the same kind of issue with my Kinetic F-86F, i struggled for days gluing some thick aluminium profiles inside and so on, until i noticed after gluing that it was useles as simply gluing them solved the problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alaninaustria Posted October 26, 2017 Author Share Posted October 26, 2017 Great suggestions guys, the warp (twist) is still very apparent after clamping the two halves together using tape... quite frustrating actually because the warp (twist) is very apparent! Cheers and thanks for the input guys! Alan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DeanKB Posted October 26, 2017 Share Posted October 26, 2017 I was wondering why somebody would enquire for help with their wig on LSP? Then I read it again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gigant Posted October 26, 2017 Share Posted October 26, 2017 I was wondering why somebody would enquire for help with their wig on LSP? Then I read it again. You never know here... MikeMaben 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wunwinglow Posted October 26, 2017 Share Posted October 26, 2017 If it is badly warped I'd be inclined to go back to the retailer and get them to replace the parts or kit..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Maxim Posted October 26, 2017 Share Posted October 26, 2017 Another method I have used previously for ship building in 1/96 scale is to superglue a length of brass strip inside the plastic and then give it a bath in hot water. The brass will help keep the piece straight. Once your done you can pop the brass loose with some debonder, If you have room inside the wing you could superglue brass rod inside to straighten the wing out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeMaben Posted October 27, 2017 Share Posted October 27, 2017 I'd go back to the hot water. It needs to be flexed beyond where you want it (overflexed). Get an idea about where the warp starts and hold it (verticularly) under a stream of hot tap water. Hot water won't hurt it. Start with shortish periods of time under the water to get an idea of how much time under the hot water will be required. Once it's where you want it, then hit it with the cold water. I've done it before. It works. If you go too far or discover you need more, go ahead and do it again. Don't be afraid Alan Gigant and alaninaustria 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_Ron Posted October 27, 2017 Share Posted October 27, 2017 I'd go back to the hot water. It needs to be flexed beyond where you want it (overflexed). Get an idea about where the warp starts and hold it (verticularly) under a stream of hot tap water. Hot water won't hurt it. Start with shortish periods of time under the water to get an idea of how much time under the hot water will be required. Once it's where you want it, then hit it with the cold water. I've done it before. It works. If you go too far or discover you need more, go ahead and do it again. Don't be afraid Alan Good advise Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alaninaustria Posted October 27, 2017 Author Share Posted October 27, 2017 I'd go back to the hot water. It needs to be flexed beyond where you want it (overflexed). Get an idea about where the warp starts and hold it (verticularly) under a stream of hot tap water. Hot water won't hurt it. Start with shortish periods of time under the water to get an idea of how much time under the hot water will be required. Once it's where you want it, then hit it with the cold water. I've done it before. It works. If you go too far or discover you need more, go ahead and do it again. Don't be afraid Alan Thanks Mike, the trick is to overflex it - I didn't do that last time - will try it out! I only flexed it to the point of being flat but it didn't really work for me the first round! Good advice! Thanks Cheers Alan Uncarina 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick Griewski Posted November 15, 2017 Share Posted November 15, 2017 Alan, how did the over flexing work out for you? How hot did the water need to be? Was the water too hot to touch for example? Rick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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