Jump to content

Hurricane IIb, Revell 1/32 - finished


Sepp

Recommended Posts

Ahoy!

 

For my next trick, I'm going to try not to completely mangle Revell's new tool Hurricane. 

 

Obligatory box shot plus an array of goodies, at least some of which will find their way onto the finished article  - ignore the scribbled (spurious) serial number, I changed my mind:

YXEuUy.jpg

 

Once again it'll be a dip into my favourite alt. history subject, albeit a bit earlier in the timeline than the last two, and requiring at least a modicum of accuracy markings and camouflage-wise. Markings are for the (spurious) 390 (Breton) Sqn, RAF, and will be applied via masks courtesy of my Silhouette cutter.   If all goes according to plan, t'll turn out something like one of these, but I might omit the kill markings:

W4AKuw.jpg

 

Back with progress soon - hopefully this one won't take as long as my last effort!

 

Cheers,

Sepp

 

Edited by Sepp
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Well, I suppose I really should make a start...

lD7om5.jpg

 

First impressions? I was hugely surprised just how much flash is present, considering this is a new-tool kit.  Some examples are more like puddles, and there is a slight mis-match between the mould halves which means there's a whole bunch of clean up required:

ReR7tb.jpg

 

The other issue, is that there are ejector pin marks on several parts that will be seen in the cockpit - break out the filler! That said, the major pieces all seem to fit together reasonably well. Anyhoo, onward!

 

First up is the seat, and the first ejector pin marks... I didn't like the indistinct andjustment lever, so out came the Albion tubing.

KQLGhz.jpgIe1TXA.jpg

 

The parts that make up the seat are quite thick, so I thinned the sides and front down by about 50%.  The fit of the four parts that make up the seat could best be described as "loose". I still have to add the leather pad that runs over the left side of the seat to prevent the parachute release cord from chafing. Adjustment lever set to one side, I'll add it before painting:

XE3Dxw.jpg

 

The cockpit doesn't include any of the various pipe work, some of which will be (just) visible when everything goes together, so I added a representation of the fuel and oil lines , plus throttle and mixture control line tubes and leads for the prop control on the left-hand frame (note unfortunately placed ejector pin mark; to be fair to Revell, it's difficult to see how the pacement could have been avoided) - I'll add the chain for the pitch trim control just prior to painting:

CUwG7F.jpg

 

and the hydraulic lines and harness release lever on the right.  Out of the box, the right-hand frame has a foot lever for the emergency undercarriage release, but there should only be one on the left, so I deleted it. I may add the snap jack, if there's room for it to dangle from the lower longeron where the hyd line curves downward, once the cockpit framework is assembled:

fkUB4w.jpg

 

in the above pic, the rectangle featuring another ejector pin mark is the de-icing fluid tank, and so:

anQvO7.jpg

The hand pump and line will have to be added after the frame is assembled, as it attaches to the cross brace.  I may add the line that goes to the windscreen, if it will be visible. I suspect not.

 

Talking of the cross brace, I added the hydraulic line that goes to the gauge; it needs to be knitted into the framework on assembly at which point I'll also add the fuel selector control tube to the left side of this part... I'm currently planning on ignoring the connections to the rudder trim wheel, as they won't be seen once everything goes together - but you know what they say about plans...:

4gaQml.jpg

I think I'll have to do something with the undercarriage/flap selector (big bar sticking out of the frame, just above and left of the brass line in the above pic), because it looks very clunky.

 

Finally for this update, I modified the stick by removing the upper portion and re-attaching it at an angle as I'll pose the ailerons slightly off-centre, and I modified the attachment tab, as I'll droop the elevators a touch, so the stick needs to sit further forward than the tab allows.  I also added a representation of the aileron control cables:

UXWbbI.jpg

 

That's all for now - next up: the wheel wells.

 

Cheers!

 

Sepp

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Anyway... wheel wells.

 

Not adding much here, just a few pipes.  Three sizes of Albion tubing, crimped to stop 'em moving around:

ISq1sv.jpg

 

and passed through the air reservior:

6Lc3lm.jpg

dIXMPA.jpg

 

Pipework added.  Along with the hydraulic lines to the gear retraction jacks, they disappear into leather covers around the diagonal braces..  mine will all go closer to the wall/spar than is usually seen:

bTi5J0.jpg

 

Representation of said covers added with foil from a Lindt chocolate bar. Other chocolate is available.

KRdfoz.jpg

 

Next job is to assemble all the moveable surfaces and horizontal stab, then it'll be time to start throwing paint around.

 

Cheers,

 

Sepp

Edited by Sepp
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Whowwwww,  interesting,  I will follow your editing with interest and this "Breton" version is of particular interest to me, my wife being Breton.  It makes me want to do it in the same livery.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

17 minutes ago, Phil88 said:

Whowwwww,  interesting,  I will follow your editing with interest and this "Breton" version is of particular interest to me, my wife being Breton.  It makes me want to do it in the same livery.

 

Thank you, I'm glad you like it! :)  I'll be doing more Breton-marked alt. history aircraft ... at least one more pre-independence, but some with Breton national insignia.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Tiny update.  Control surfaces and horizontal stab assembled (no dramas, so no pix). 

 

Thanks to Tolga ULGUR, I now have the landing light bulb holders.  The lights themselves attach to an open framework,

j4tEEr.jpg

 

but the kit parts are solid:

kfGyaK.jpg

 

So I decided to try to do a bit better - after application of various drills, routers and files:

YRZrbZ.jpg

N8FTRX.jpg

 

Still a bit 'clunky' I feel... so I have the horrible feeling I'm going to decide to remove the cross brace, thin the rear panel as much as I dare, then replace the brace and add a few (representative) internal details with some scraps of pe from unused Colonial Viper VII and Bf109 sheets:

3ChKv7.jpg

 

All of which will, of course, be nigh on invisible once it all goes together...

 

Back with more soon, but first have to climb the mountain of post-holiday jobs.

 

Sepp

 

 

 

 

 

Edited by Sepp
Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, MikeMaben said:

Hi Sepp, actually the light/reflector attached to a rod behind it that allowed it to pivot up and down.

 

OBNmVhM.jpg

 

Whether or not that makes any difference to you  :shrug:

 

Yep, am aware of that - currently considering whether to mod the kit piece make the top of the frame tubular, or just suggest the nut, or neither - the pivot will, ofc, not be visible.  It would appear that the cross brace on the kit part is an attempt to show the brace on the forward spar.  I shall think further on't, as experiments suggest that the kit's transparent piece distorts what can be seen to the extent that it will probably be too indistinct to matter... which, ofc, means I'm eyeing up a Trumpy 1/24 IIc. 

 

Cheers for the input - it all helps! :)

 

Sepp

Edited by Sepp
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...