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Another Hasegawa FW190. I FIXED IT!


Woody V

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6 hours ago, LSP_Kevin said:

Looks great, Woody! Just to be clear, are you using the Levelling Thinner as surface prep before decal application, or as a softener over the top after application?

 

Kev,

 

Over the top after the decals have completely dried.

 

"Softener" doesn't quite describe it, it's more like a "liquefier". Decals are made from lacquer and since dry lacquer can be re-wet, the thinner essentially turns decals into liquid/gelatinous lacquer paint. Sounds scarier than it is. 

Not sure if this would work over water based paints.

Edited by Archer Fine Transfers
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47 minutes ago, Archer Fine Transfers said:

 

Kev,

 

Over the top after the decals have completely dried.

 

"Softener" doesn't quite describe it, it's more like a "liquefier". Decals are made from lacquer and since dry lacquer can be re-wet, the thinner essentially turns decals into liquid/gelatinous lacquer paint. Sounds scarier than it is. 

Not sure if this would work over water based paints.

 

Thanks, Woody. Definitely going to give this a shot on a paint mule!

 

Kev

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5 minutes ago, LSP_Kevin said:

 

Thanks, Woody. Definitely going to give this a shot on a paint mule!

Kev

 

Always a good idea to do a test. I can't tell you how many horror stories I've hear about guys trying something new on their finished model. Just apply your test decal with water only for maximum silvering, and lay down a wet coat of thinner. I think I'll add this idea to the Tips forum.

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5 minutes ago, Archer Fine Transfers said:

 

Always a good idea to do a test. I can't tell you how many horror stories I've hear about guys trying something new on their finished model. Just apply your test decal with water only for maximum silvering, and lay down a wet coat of thinner. I think I'll add this idea to the Tips forum.

 

One last question: are you spraying the thinner on, or just brush-painting it over the decal?

 

Kev

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Looking great, Woody!  Love the MLT test!  I definitely endorse testing before trying it on the model.  I think it would reek havoc on my builds because I tend to have very thin color coats over black preshading and even clear coats thinned with MLT have a tendency to bite through the paint and bring some of the black to the surface.

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3 hours ago, Thunnus said:

I think it would reek havoc on my builds because I tend to have very thin color coats over black preshading and even clear coats thinned with MLT have a tendency to bite through the paint and bring some of the black to the surface.

 

Yea, I had that happen on my SBD build, but the weathering on that build was pretty severe and it made little to no difference. On this build I had primer, color, clear and decals covering the whole model so it was a non-issue. 

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ARGH!

 

Got the finish clear coat (my mix of 50/50 Mr Color Satin and Flat) on and it turned out great, but when I took the masking off the canopy I was greeted by this mess. I’m really not sure exactly what caused this but I think it may be a reaction between the Future and a clear coat or maybe the coat of Mr Hobby Leveling Thinner.

172662705.jpg

 

It’s hard and not eaten into the clear part so I scraped off as much as I could with my hobby knife.

172662706.jpg

 

Then I smoothed it out as much as I dare with an Extra Fine followed by a Super Fine sanding stick to this point.

172662707.jpg

 

So any ideas how to finish this off and make it glossy? I’m pretty sure Future would do the trick, but I’d have to brush it on but I’m not comfortable with that idea. If that doesn’t work I’ll wind up with a different mess.

 

I do know one thing - I’m done dipping canopies and if I ever decide to do a closed canopy I’ll paint it off the model. There’s dust on the inside that I’ll never get out. :crying:

 

It’s always something!

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  • Woody V changed the title to Another Hasegawa FW190 - HELP!

Keep polishing it with various grades and then try a bit of baking soda paste to polish more. Then follow up with a small bit of future. It’s recoverable, just takes patience which I think you certainly have!

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1 hour ago, Thunnus said:

Can you carefully pop the canopy off?  That way you can wipe the canopy clean of paint and polish it completely.  And you can remove the dust particles inside.

 

That's my last resort. It's glued on very good.

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23 minutes ago, easixpedro said:

Keep polishing it with various grades and then try a bit of baking soda paste to polish more. Then follow up with a small bit of future. It’s recoverable, just takes patience which I think you certainly have!

I'm convinced it can be polished out. Just looking for options at this point and this is a good one. Thanks.

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