Sabre F-86 Posted January 17, 2016 Share Posted January 17, 2016 The A6M3 is staring at me, haven't touched it since I botched up the first attempt at doing the very shallow scallops on the ailerons. Any one have a tried and true method? I can fill the mistakes and leave them dead flat but it won't look right so I'd like to try something else. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richdlc Posted January 17, 2016 Share Posted January 17, 2016 solartex. used for covering r/c planes surfaces Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Juggernut Posted January 17, 2016 Share Posted January 17, 2016 (edited) What A6M3? There's a kit of the A6M3 available? in 1/32? Who makes it and where can I get one? However, to answer your question, I remember Radu using Dymo (Labelmaker) tape to protect the metal structure of the control surface and sanding the exposed portions to create a depression. It seemed to work very well and can be seen on his/MDC Ki-61 Tony kit. Edited January 17, 2016 by Juggernut Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_Ray Posted January 18, 2016 Share Posted January 18, 2016 I wouldn't try to do scallops. I took a close look at a museum F4u's fabric aerilons and they were nearly dead flat. At most, there was just a slight raised strip over the ribs. I would either use strips of decal strip at the location of the ribs, or tape the edge of the ribs and spray a layer of two of primer/Mr Surfacer and leave it at that. Be very subtle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cees Broere Posted January 18, 2016 Share Posted January 18, 2016 I agree with Ray. The depressions are caused by airpressure during flight. When static the surface is flat. Old Revell kits had sort of weave structure on the moving surfaces Small strips of tape (perhaps indentations with rivetting tool beneath to represent the stitches) work best. Cees Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark P Posted January 18, 2016 Share Posted January 18, 2016 (edited) My pet peeve, kind of like bulged tires... There is no "depression" in fabric controls. In fact, fabric is tested in maintenance inspections to ensure tautness. It should be rigid. Any sag in fabric would mean it would tear while in flight and not stand up to the speeds subjected to it. Why manufacturers can't figure that out escapes me... The only details that should be seen on a control surfaces are taping (very subtle) and rib stitching if appropriate. Mark Proulx Edited January 18, 2016 by Mark P Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Juggernut Posted January 18, 2016 Share Posted January 18, 2016 Anyone really interested in dope & fabric can look at the book US certificated mechanics study to pass their tests. I think the D&F portion of the testing has gone by-by (as have the radial engine sections) but it's still good knowledge. These books are free online and are called Advisory Circulars (AC) that are guidance from the Federal Aviation Administration. There are three AC's and if you'd care to know how these things work and are built/maintained, you an give em a look-see. General Handbook AC65-9A This AC was cancelled but provides a great deal of general knowledge: https://www.faa.gov/regulations_policies/advisory_circulars/index.cfm/go/document.information/documentID/74451 Powerplant Handbook AC65-12A http://www.faa.gov/documentlibrary/media/advisory_circular/ac_65-12a.pdf Airframe Handbook AC65-15A http://www.faa.gov/documentLibrary/media/Advisory_Circular/AC_65-15A.pdf Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wetwings Posted January 19, 2016 Share Posted January 19, 2016 What Ray said. If a 1:1 fabric job's been done properly the rib tapes will stand not much more than 1mm above the surrounds, so in 1:32, or even 1:24, they will be only just discernible. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sabre F-86 Posted January 19, 2016 Author Share Posted January 19, 2016 What A6M3? There's a kit of the A6M3 available? in 1/32? Who makes it and where can I get one? However, to answer your question, I remember Radu using Dymo (Labelmaker) tape to protect the metal structure of the control surface and sanding the exposed portions to create a depression. It seemed to work very well and can be seen on his/MDC Ki-61 Tony kit. No, as far as I know there still isn't one. I started off with the 21st Century kit and reworked it. Here's the build log so far. http://forum.largescaleplanes.com/index.php?showtopic=24287&hl=a6m3 Thanks for all the replies. I think I'm just gonna fill the dents and leave at that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Old Dog Flying Posted January 19, 2016 Share Posted January 19, 2016 To replicate rib tapes in 1:32 scale I've used Evergreen strips .005X.040" then after the glue dries just feather the edges with 400 grit wet sand paper. Check out the effect on my Fleet Canuck on my web site http://www.barneysairforce.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottsGT Posted January 19, 2016 Share Posted January 19, 2016 You could probably just mask the area off and spray a coat of paint to simulate the pinking tape covering the stitching. 1/32 is so small it would be easy to over do this area. When I was building 1/4 scale R/C aircraft we use to simulate the rib stitching on out Cubs and other fabric aircraft. I did quite a few with Coverite or even the old fashioned method of doping down the bare fabric and adding many coats of dope to fill the fabric. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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