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Revell Spitfire MK IIa


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Time to embark on another 1/32 scale aircraft build. This time I selected Revell's new tool Spitfire MK II. I am going to build this aircraft as per the box art QV-J which is an MK II from No. 19 Squadron RAF. I think the Revell decals are pretty good so no need to switch them out at this point. One note of interest is the box art shows an MK II with  a de Havilland prop which while possible was not common on front line fighters like this one. These aircraft would typically have the Rotol blunt nose spinner and prop.

 

Here's the kit itself. I have read a number of reviews of this kit and I have to say you get at lot of bang for your buck with this one.

 

_MG_2687a700_zpsvs9eh5i3.jpg

Edited by Totalize
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Here's are some shots of the upgrades I am going to use. I purchased the Barracuda resin parts back in January of this year when Barracuda had a 50% off sale so I scored a nice deal there. These are all the upgrades Barracuda offers for this kit such as the wheels, cockpit upgrades (seat with armour plate, instruments, gun sight) and correct oil cooler, radiator, side door and ailerons.  I also decided to try the RB productions seat belts. I have never used the RB offering before so I hope they are pretty good. Also, I wanted to have a nice IP for this kit and I found the YAHU IP looked just excellent so I picked that up too. Finally, the issue of the rotol prop. At first the only resin ones I could find were tremendously expensive. I mean were talking like US $30 (including shipping) for a prop!! Hell I paid that for the whole kit. I just couldn't bring myself at this point to shell out that kind of bling for one part. So, I hunted around and found that the department of correction made one that was very nice. The best part? I purchased it from Europe, got it in like 4 days (Poland to Canada)  and paid ~$13 Canadian which is like US$10 or about a third the price of the other resin props out there. Pretty happy with that purchase. 

 

Pic of the Yahu IP and Revel kit part. The additional piece attached to the Yahu part is the PE for the compass which needs to be removed. Not shown is the additional black raised bezel that comes with the panel.

 

_MG_2689a700_zpsvh4fkmwu.jpg

 

 

IMG_2701a700_zps8oerrog2.jpg

Edited by Totalize
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Totalize,

 

I'm looking forward to seeing your build! I have this kit as well, and from what I've read, the wing root fit might be a challenge. I was thinking of attaching the upper wings to the fuselage sides first, then attaching the lower wing.

 

Cheers, Tom

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Looking forward to this one, the barracuda parts are fantastic items.........watch the upper lower wing fit when you have the new radiator installed as it will fowl the upper wing and requires careful trimming/ fitment in an already awkward area on this kit but its well worth the effort.

 

Regards. Andy

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Thanks for checking and having a look.

 

Tom,

 

I will definitely keep that in mind regarding the wings.

 

Andy,

 

Thanks for the tip. Will watch out for that part.

 

 

Should have more pics up on the cockpit work this weekend.

 

Dave.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Just a small update on the cockpit work.

 

I shaved off the kit instrument panel in preparation for the PE set  an added the Barracuda compass mount as well getting an initial coat of paint on the cockpit floor and instrument panel bulkhead. Next up I am going to add a bit of plumbing to the cockpit floor area to fill out that area.

 

as I rarely use paint straight from the bottle I held to that habitual practice by using Tamiya cockpit green mixed with a bit of Tamiya sky. The bulkhead also has an oil wash added to it. As a result it is darker than the cockpit floor which has no wash.

 

 

_MG_2728a700_zpsoiji9rtq.jpg

Edited by Totalize
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  • 4 weeks later...

Well this build has been slow going thus far but progress is being made.

 

For part of my build I am working from the Tamiya How to build series on the Revell Spitfire MKII which is a good reference.

James Hatch uses Mr. Hobby putty to tone down the rivet detail on the fuselage so I followed his process.

 

First I applied the dissolved putty. I must say this stuff is much thicker than the thickest Mr. Surfacer stuff which is I think Mr. Surfacer 500. It's much better for filling gaps, dries with minimal shrinkage and is nicely sandable. I began using it on my last build of the Hasegawa P-47D.

 

First I used the putty along the rivets then let it dry overnight. Then once dry I sanded down the targeted areas with a medium sanding stick then some 3200 then 8000 grit micro mesh. Finally, I re-scribed the panel lines to get the putty out by using one of my old airbrush needles as a scriber.

 

Here's what I am talking about.

 

The Putty. I love this stuff. Turn it upside down and let the thick stuff settle into the cap then flip it back over after a few minutes, screw off the cap and Bobs you Uncle.

 

_MG_2803a700_zpsgoyp9twt.jpg

 

 

The Application.

 

_MG_2800%20a700_zps2px6ioea.jpg

 

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After sanding and re-scribing.

 

_MG_2804a700_zpsfjik2x4t.jpg

 

_MG_2805a700_zpsvoaf2utz.jpg

 

_MG_2806%20a700_zpsvb4cyekg.jpg

 

 

 

Just a few finishing touches of sanding and onward and upward. The horizontal stabs will get the same treatment.

 

Cheers for now.

 

Dave,

Edited by Totalize
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Hi Kev,

 

You could be right but not sure in what context you used it. I use it for minor gap filling  however, it may still demonstrate high shrinkage if used heavily to fill big gaps. I will have to try that situation out at some point. Perhaps if I encounter it in this build.  For large gaps I tend to use  apoxie sculpt. It doesn't shrink at all (at least in my experience) and can be sanded once dry. It dries rock hard and doesn't crack either. 

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