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Posted

What about using brake fluid? Used to work well as a paint remover on models.

 

HTH,

 

D,B.

 

Brake fluid is veeeery toxic.

 

 

Even when used as intended. I would stay away from it.

 

There's much safer solutions.

Posted

like with the crusader i tend to prime all parts that will be white (like the underside of the intruder) with tamiya white primer before assembly, this time i can just not get the paint to cling to the parts correctly. i washed all the parts in dishwashing liquid and even scrubbed them with a soft brush, but no go

i am a little reluctant to try something hotter in the fear of damaging the superb detail. 

 

 

 

these white parts were even primed gray with the automotive primer i use all the time before tamiya white

the cockpit is also primed with it, it just doesnt spread evenly

 

 

i think some tests on unused parts with alcohol or turpentine is in order

any other guesses?

 

Just going over the basics:

 

What is the temperature of the room you're painting in?

 

How old is the paint?

 

What is the temperature of the paint when you're applying it?

 

Are you mixing the paint thoroughly enough?

 

Is this the first time you've built a Trumpeter model?

 

Does the Trumpeter parts look/feel different from other model kit parts?

 

Are you doing anything different with this build that you haven't done with other builds?

Posted

Brake fluid may remove the model as well as the paint... I would not try that

What about bleach?

Posted

thanx guys for trying to help me out

 

Just going over the basics:

 

What is the temperature of the room you're painting in?

 

How old is the paint?

 

What is the temperature of the paint when you're applying it?

 

Are you mixing the paint thoroughly enough?

 

Is this the first time you've built a Trumpeter model?

 

Does the Trumpeter parts look/feel different from other model kit parts?

 

Are you doing anything different with this build that you haven't done with other builds?

- normal room tempetrature

-couple of months

- normal room tempetrature

- rattlecan

-no

-no

- no, have just done the F-8 and had only minimal problems of this sort on the geardoors, some coats solved the problem wirhout further action

 

i will try to experiment further

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

i have to wait for some tamiya primer to be delivered, so no more experimenting as of yet

on the eagle build i used automotive rattlecan paint with good results, i will use this from now on but am reluctant to spray it over the tamiya primer. more experimenting necessary.

i wasnt happy with the foil over the speedbrakes, so i puttied them 

 

09_zps9f6d7bbc.jpg

 

and painted the floor of the pit, then masked it for further paint. the grey primer seems to work ok:

 

10_zps5dd4b034.jpg

Edited by blackbetty
Posted

3 things that I found after building this kit a couple times now. The holes aft of the speed brakes are exhaust ports for the TRAM. The A/C vents on the B/N side should be filled and smoothed! There are no air scoop aft of that vent as well. Those are things to omit, and things to add are wing tip nav lights between the wing and speed brake. I think petrov27 did this on his WIP! Test fit the canopy rails good prior to painting! I didn't on both my builds and had a hell of a time at the end! Also add more weight to the frnt end, she'll sit on her tail! Super start to this BIG model, you'll enjoy it. My next one will be a hawk mud mover with the checkered tail!

 

Paul

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

thanx Loic!

Paul i will keep al of these mods in mind, thanx

well after discovering this:

http://forum.largescaleplanes.com/index.php?showtopic=48496&hl=

i thought i would stall the build and wait for a good resin pit (i even pulled out a Mig 19 kit), but the issues of the stock pit just kept bugging me.

since i would throw away the kit pit when using a resin one i might as well cut it up and see what i can do.

so here goes (disclaimer: your mileage may vary, the faults in the kit are just my opinion, i love trumpeter kits, everyone is allowed to do OOB builds and has my full respect...did i forget something - i appologize in advance :DodgeBall: ):

 

first i copied the intruder cockpit drawings and reduced them to 1:32 in size, the black IP is from the kit

:15_zps3deefd1d.jpg

if you cut it out and lay it over the kit parts the problems are obvious (see disclaimer above):

16_zps11caa7df.jpg

Edited by blackbetty
Posted (edited)

next i sectioned the kit ip:

 

17_zpsdcbf6553.jpg

 

the B/Ns ip is too high, but some sanding at the top corrects this:

 

18_zpsa7dfe2e9.jpg

Edited by blackbetty
Posted

the center console inclines to the ip, so it is cut out to be moved up:

 

19_zps25fe13e7.jpg

 

done:

20_zps2204712d.jpg

 

skinned with very thin sheet to extend the sides down and change shape for the center panel:

 

22_zps82d0474a.jpg

Posted

slid into its former position, just a tad higher at the front:

 

23_zps2195b0f8.jpg

 

center panel in place, inclination also changed. the pilots ip is moved forward corresponding with its new position:

 

24_zpsa1d92a0d.jpg

Posted

from the top, the new divider for the B/Ns ip is in place. i have used a template (on the right console) to get the lenght of it correct:

 

25_zps35cbf575.jpg

 

the template of the right side ip in place:

 

26_zps000ae8e6.jpg

 

iclination of the right side ip changed, center divider cut to fit. i used a pic of the ip that also shows the frame of the windshield to get the angle close:

 

27_zps6a7ca97c.jpg

 

the B/Ns center console will have to be moved back (and may change the position of his seat, we will see.....

 

stay tuned

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