LSP_Kevin Posted May 30, 2010 Share Posted May 30, 2010 This awesome and inspiring work Mark! I'm learning heaps and enjoying every update. That came out fantastically well! Can you tell me how you managed to flatten the solder? Kev Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dodgem37 Posted May 31, 2010 Author Share Posted May 31, 2010 I looked into the drop tank and have come up with this. I'll make a few assemblies and compare my effort with the kit condition before I determine if I'll go the cheap route and just modify the kit part. I mixed together some of this. Plunked it down on the points under consideration on both tanks. Came away with these. Added some resin. And out popped these. My resin is old. The reason for all of the bubbles inside the part. I'll have to buy new resin if I go this route. There still is a lot to do with these. Additional stuff below in another reply. Greg W 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JRutman Posted May 31, 2010 Share Posted May 31, 2010 I looked into the drop tank and have come up with this. I'll make a few assemblies and compare my effort with the kit condition before I determine if I'll go the cheap route and just modify the kit part. I mixed together some of this. Plunked it down on the points under consideration on both tanks. Came away with these. Added some resin. And out popped these. My resin is old. The reason for all of the bubbles inside the part. I'll have to buy new resin if I go this route. There still is a lot to do with these. Additional stuff below in another reply. If you like I can send you some of those that I used to include in my drop tank kits. Then all you need to do is pop some circles out of a punch and die set to attach to the tank under the resin? J Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dodgem37 Posted May 31, 2010 Author Share Posted May 31, 2010 Kevin: Figured out the length. Roll burnished the solder to get the kinks out. Removed the kit part, sanded smooth and drilled recieving holes at an angle. My apologies for the poor quality. Soft to moderate pressure, rolled solder on a soft surface (index card). Soft to moderate pressure, rolled solder on a moderate surface (cutting board). Soft pressure rolled solder on a hard surface (desk surface). Rolled solder stretches, I forgot. Completion of the post below. Greg W and rafju 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dodgem37 Posted May 31, 2010 Author Share Posted May 31, 2010 New piece rolled and glued in place. I forgot it's length. Rounding and smoothing it out on a paint brush. Since the paint brush is tapered it's easy to just keep sliding it up the handle until the solder becomes round. Then all you need do is center the base and maybe burnish the kinks out against the handle. Needs a little more burnishing at the base to even things out a bit. But I'll do that later. I'll put it back in the brush and burnish it against the brush. Close enough for government work. Other side. Wheel well is next, then it's chores for the day. Thanks for looking. Sincerely, Mark Dany Boy, rafju and Greg W 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dodgem37 Posted May 31, 2010 Author Share Posted May 31, 2010 Whew! Last but not least. Punched discs, lightly sanded edges at 45 degrees, glued into place then drilled. The flat face of the lightening hole is actually more narrow than what I protray but I didn't want to chance getting too close for fear of going overboard. Inside rear corner and back wall. Outside front corner. Outside rear corner and back wall. I don't know what this is doing here, but there must have been a reason I uploaded to the folder. Thanks for looking. Sincerely, Mark Greg W and rafju 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JRutman Posted May 31, 2010 Share Posted May 31, 2010 Mark, Here is a pic of my old drop tank so you can see better what I am talking about. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dodgem37 Posted June 1, 2010 Author Share Posted June 1, 2010 Jerry, Thank you. I'm happy with that. PM inbound. Sincerely, Mark Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dodgem37 Posted June 3, 2010 Author Share Posted June 3, 2010 I put aside the wheel well and thought I'd put some time into the cockpit defrosting conduit. This will also be done for tha G-14. First mock-up: Looks OK from here. Not terrible from this side either. Too bad it didn't fit the canopy as well as I had hoped. So I killed this idea. And went to this idea. I taped the inside with aluminum tape, used to seal ductwork. The idea was to liquid cement the parts together instead of using super glue, but I didn't have enough overlap to the canopy edges and was afraid the liquid glue would wick under the tape and ruin the canopy, so I trimmed the tape and used super glue to create this mock-up. I don't know if you know, but superglue doesn't adhere well to aluminum tape, so the part is easy to remove. Here I'm using tweezers to stress the rod to conform to the canopy shape. The yellow tape is to help to keep the tweezers from scratching the plastic. With the tweezers removed. It still needs some fine tuning. A part fell off. That's all for now. I still have round three to do. This time I'll cover the inside with some clear 'frisket' and the locations to which I need to glue I'll locate aluminum tape. That way I'll better be able to see the framework and know a little better where to locate the conduit, and, I may be able to use liquid glue. Thanks for looking. Sincerely, Mark Gazzas, rafju, Dany Boy and 1 other 3 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JRutman Posted June 4, 2010 Share Posted June 4, 2010 Jerry,Thank you. I'm happy with that. PM inbound. Sincerely, Mark You never sent me your snail mail addy. J Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nmayhew Posted June 4, 2010 Share Posted June 4, 2010 wow again (i think i keep saying that on your builds!) - the ingenuity of your work is amazing! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Pratt Posted June 4, 2010 Share Posted June 4, 2010 Now that's thinking outside the box...I'll have to give this a go when the time comes to break out one of my 109s... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nmayhew Posted June 4, 2010 Share Posted June 4, 2010 Does anyone have any pics of this on the real thing btw? Either on a K or other models...donkt recall it on the Emil - is that right? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dodgem37 Posted June 4, 2010 Author Share Posted June 4, 2010 Sorry, Jerry. My e-mail has been spastic for about 3 weeks now. I'll send you a PM. Photos taken from the Hasegawa Corporation book on the Bf109G-6, Modeler's Eye Series #3. The other 2 books in the series are the FW190D-9 and F-18, I don't know the F-18 variants. The 109 book has Hartmanns' winter scheme double chevron on the cover. G-6Y, W.Nr.167271, Central Finland Aviation Museum. Page 21. Photo 47. Also in Aero Detail 5, Photo 86, Page 19. Same aircraft, Page 51, Photo 50, in Hasegawa's book. Also in Aero Detail 5, Photo 85, Page 19. The next one's are G-10's from 109 Lair. Sincerely, Mark rafju and Greg W 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattlow Posted June 5, 2010 Share Posted June 5, 2010 Mark Nice work on the canopy. As far as I'm aware most of the structure you show and those parts you modelled are in fact the actual tubular framework of the canopy. If you look at the photos you'll see the holes line up with screw/bolt heads on the outer canopy. I think there's basically a sandwich consisting of tubular frame/metal spacer/plexiglass and then the outer metal strip. However inthe last photos of the restored and then unrestored G-10 you have some excellent views of the de-mister fitted to G-10s from a certain factory (don't have the details to hand). This is the pipe with a flattened nozzle at each end pointing upwards into the glazing. In the last photo, which gives a really good view, you can see that this pipe 'plugs' into a hole (sealed with a rubber gasket) in the decking behind the pilot seat. I don't think the demisting system was common on G-10/K-4 a/c (not sure if it was on K-4 at all?) and as far as I'm aware it wasn't fitted to any earlier models at all. Of course given the degree of a/c recycling going on in '44/'45 it may have been possible to have found a G-10 feature on maybe a G-14 or G-6..? HTH Matt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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