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Bf109K-4, I./KG (J)6, Bohemia, May 1945


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Thanks for the compliments, gentlemen.

 

Jerry,

Package received. Boy, are those bits tiny!

Many thanks for your generousity.

In addition, I shall worry no further about 'modellers reality'. Thank you.

 

I've pulled a working vac out of white plastic and squished it into some Play-Do. That way it'll retain its shape while I work on it. At least, I'm hoping it will.

Because of the low contrast (white evergreen scratch parts on white vac) between the canopy and evergreen I'll probably paint the canopy interior primer.

 

Wiring is a bit fidly. I'm cutting .5mm insulation strips from insulated wiring to use as wire fasteners. I've had terrible luck using various types of tape as a fastener. Tamiya, aluminum tape, painters, you name it. Witness the cockpit side walls from earlier posts. I've been removing that tape and switching over to cut insulation fasteners there as well. I haven't looked at the G-14 yet, but I'll take a look and see what needs to be done there.

 

If I haven't mentioned it in your post Jerry, your work is truly fantastic.

Once again Jerry, thank you.

Thanks for looking.

Sincerely,

Mark

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If by wire fasteners you are reffering to the thingies that attach the wires to the airframe,I use thinstrips of metal foil. They conform very well to any compound curve and super glue fixes them in place rapidly. HTH

J

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Everything helps me Jerry. I only got back into building airplanes last year, building that Dragon P-51D for my wife, Janet. This is only my fourth airplane, albeit it is the fourth in a row. I'm still trying to figure out how to make and paint airplanes.

As I was already in the middle of, and comfortable with, this exercise, I continued with it. I will keep in mind and investigate using metal foil in a future project. Thank you.

 

I think I can honostly say that one wheel well is done! YAY!

 

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In the round. The blue is .5+-mm wire insulation. Thin solder is .010.

 

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Inside front.

 

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Outside front. I filled that bad corner connection with primer paint pigment and dipped a q-tip in thinner and smoothed things out.

You may notice a spot. That apparently is the location of an air pocket. I said the hell with it.

 

DSCN5174.jpg

Outside back. .010 solder. .020 solder. I twisted some 32 gauge brass wire and stuck it in some insulation.

I like how the insulation sticks out and looks like a conduit.

 

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Inside back. Very busy location. I guess it is just as well that I didn't find and install that little tri-angular part that went AWOL since the corner is so busy hardly anything behind the wiring can be seen.

 

One down. Thank God only one to go.

Thanks for looking.

Sincerely,

Mark

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Guest canuck63

Great Job Mark :beer4: !

Remember to scrape off the detail indicated by the red arrow inside the channel the oleo rests into when retracted.I've attached the picture of one of the wheel wells of my 109 G-6 to show you what I mean (I'm using Radu's magnificent PE wheel wells on my build) and to glue a strip of brass/aluminum or styrene sheet in its place.

Cheers

Manny

post-413-1276524336.jpg

post-413-1276524350.jpg

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Very convincing wheelwell man. Better than any resin replacement that I've seen.

J

Thank you very much, Jerry.

 

Are you normally an armour guy?

Kev

I had to think about this for awhile. Because, although I have focused on armor for 20 years, I was building armor in response to not being satisfied with the way the aircraft I was building was turning out. And, it has been thru armor that I have been able to develop patience, problem-solving, and scratch-building skills. Although I have a history of being lost in armor, I consider myself first a modeller, and that I favor airplane, armor, and WWII coastal combatants (Vosper, PT Boat, E-, & S-Boats). Not necessarily in that order at any given time.

 

'Remember to scrape off the detail . . '

Manny

I'll see if I can make the landing leg recieving area in its entirety.

 

'What a beautiful build.'

-Al

Thank you very much, Al.

 

'Sure tempts, and gives me ideas....'

-Al

'I think I shall have a go myself . . .'

Matt

Just Do It, Bro! It's all just an experiment.

 

'Very, very nice work in plasticard.'

Matt

Thank you very much.

 

I've been plugging away doing some figuring on the canopy framing and working on the bits that Jerry was so kind to send me. The Post Office Gorilla apparently used a hammer to process Jerry's envelope.

 

Thanks for looking.

Sincerely,

Mark

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Thank you, Ron.

 

Jerry, I'll let you know when I get back to the drop tanks. But I think I can salvage the parts.

 

This is not the wheel well to a K-4, but to a G-. The Hartmann G-14 I'm doing in the other thread. Since I hadn't done any work specific to the G-14, I thought I would do some work on that, and, as Manny's comment was made on this thread, this is where I chose to respond. Or something like that.

Here you go, Manny.

 

DSCN5178.jpg

Removed the detail and drilled a .040 hole to receive the stand-off bolt shaft.

 

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Made a pattern with heavy duty kraft paper tape.

 

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Here I've already laid out the rivet lines and found the center point to the openings. The tape is attached to an index card.

I used a scribing template to draw and then trim out lozenges so I could determine which size would look best. I used the 2.5 x 4.5 lozenge.

Numbers are in mm. The linework to the left was corrected by moving it to 1mm from the left edge.

 

DSCN5181.jpg

I put the stencil on some .005 plasticard, trimmed the part, cut the straight linework to the openings and perforated the radius.

You can see some dimpling around the radius. It looks saw-toothed. I learned a lesson here. Don't perforate through the stencil. Next time use the scribing template to draw the radius.

 

DSCN5182.jpg

I enlarged the part shaft openings with a dental bit and cleaned them up. Then I center-lined the part and located a centerline to the fore and aft aspect of the landing gear shaft. Then I rolled the part. I drew the guidelines for the rivits and rivetted the part then located the centerline on the other side, aligned the center-lines, glued it down, drilled a .040 hole, and trimmed it.

 

DSCN5183.jpg

I located a .030 rod, marked the depth with a pencil, added 1mm to the length, trimmed and glued it in place. This way the stand-off arm would set 1mm up from the shaft. I cut some .005 card 4mm x 1mm, made 1mm bends, glued it on and punched out a bolt from my Historex bolt punch set. What is that? A spider web or what?

 

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Spider webs and a crooked bolt. Bummer. I'll go fix that.

 

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Still plugging away on the canopy interior. I decided not to paint it primer.

 

Thanks for looking.

Sincerely,

Mark

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I like what you're doing a lot!

 

Have you pulled an 'opaque canopy' to work on the framing? Is that pulled using the original canopy part or an inside cast (make sense?)?

 

Matt

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