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Bf109K-4, I./KG (J)6, Bohemia, May 1945

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After I changed the boss of the Ludwig Franzisket Bf109G-6 to red and black I started grooving on red as a color, so I searched thru my Histoire & Collections Me109 Volume II From 1942 to 1945, by Dominique Breffort and Andre Jouineau book to see what I could see in red and came up with this:



I couldn't remove the top copy. It goes to another aircraft.



Bevelled the inside of the triangles and drilled the gun barrel.



Ground out a bit of the exhaust and smoothed things out with liquid glue. Drilled the barrels and opened the suppressors.



Opened up the troughs. Top.






Drilled a hole and rivetted the opening.



The drop tank fits into the white tube. Misc. details from web references. I don't plan to

add any more detail to the chutes. The blue: Those with eagle eyes will note this is not a valve

as references indicate, but a drain. Oh well.



Opened things up.



Scale thickness?





More to come.




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Drain. Shortened bum.



I didn't bother with reshaping the gun cover. It didn't seem important to me.



Thinned rudder pedals, carefully removed excess, and added rolled strip as straps.



More of the same.



Right side. I'll fix the loose wiring. The little blue tube underneath the semi-circle rotated out of position.

I'll fix that. I guess I need to put in a cockpit light.



Left side. Need a cockpit light on this side also.



Nothing special here.



New hatch and fasteners.



I learned my lesson on the Hartmann plane. Leave the rudder alone! Painted additional ribbing.



Noting accurate here. Just stuff.


More to come.




Edited by dodgem37
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wow - VERY nice indeed!!


i am always interested in birds based out of Czech as my fiancee is from Prague (that way i can say "i'm doing this for you darling!" - not that she ever complains, mind you)


which decal set will you use?


thanks for sharing



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Thanks for the compliments gentlemen.


'which decal set will you use?'

Nick, I'll be making my own stencils. I had been searching for a stencilling material to use other than frisket and/or (Tamiya, 3M, painters) tape, as both of these materials stretch when being removed from the transluscent mylar I use onto which I draft/trace the image.


And of course the tape is opaque, which makes seeing the image doubly hard. Though for tape I had to tape the mylar on a small table top light box I picked up years ago for tracing purposes, to see the image.


Then again, tape is thick and the drafted image has a bit of distortion, which makes cutting it out accurately a challenge. Not to mention both gave me fits when trying to apply them square on the aircraft, because each material had stretched.


I found a laminate at a crafts store (Michaels, here in the Silver Spring, Maryland area) that is used as a photo page cover. It has good tensil strength, is clear, doesn't pull future off of the aircraft, adheres really well, and doesn't stretch. I think it is nylon. I don't have the label anymore, but it comes in a roll about 18" x 36".




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Thank you, gentlemen.


I haven't been able to put a lot of time on this this week because of work, but I do have a little something to show.

I wasn't planning on putting in more time into the wheel wells but I threw caution to the wind with the hope that I wouldn't mess

this effort up and starting scratching the parts.


I hesitated to document and post the process because I don't know if anyone would be interested and I wondered

'Who am I to show others how I do something when so many of you have so much more skill than I', and besides,

one can buy the stuff from Radu. Firstly, forgive me for stepping on your toes, Radu.


But, I decided to chance it. I know the images are large, and I apologize. I don't know how to make them smaller.

So here goes:



I cut out a piece of index card and tacked it down with Uhu (brand name) white 'blue tac' and traced the opening onto the card.

Here I've already sketched a general layout. 19.8 is the mm diameter of the outer circle.

The base and side must abutt. This is a constant. Interestingly enough the base the card

sets against is the wing spar. Which is good.



Here it is with the wing bottom attached.



I shimmed the front because of a gap.



I used adhesive backed paper packaging tape to use as a stencil. It's sturdy, won't stretch,

and can be used again, for the other well. So only one stencil needs to be made.

You just work on the other side of the part to make the opposite hand. I've already trimmed it.

The excess that wraps the corner will go underneath the small strip and intersect with framing.



Since I would be removing the side panel I went ahead and stenciled it as well.



The stencil was removed, located on .005 plastic sheet, trimmed with 1/2 mm excess on top and bottom,

and the ridges sanded off. A little adhesive residue needs to be clean up.



The side panel was removed. The curved line of the well walls were retained in the removal

of the small strip and a small shelf carved into the corners.



Strips of double-sided adhesive flim were located to use as an adhesive for mock up.



The part in place.





Three more pix to come.


Thanks for looking.



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Lightening holes center-lined, drilled, and backed with .010 strip.









To accomodate the .010 depth of the lightening holes some plastic removal was necessary.


I have attempted to locate it in place but because the wheel shaft area is layered this aspect

does not want to curve as easily as the rest of the part so a ridiculous gap is the result.

As soon as I can remedy this I'll post it.


Thanks for looking.



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Very Very Nice attention to details . I enjoy making things as much as I can too! You've done a great job on the pit and the wheel wells etc. Cant wait to see more, keep it up!

All the best,



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Thank you Dave.


Thank you, Paul.


I'm dutifully plugging away with the remaining 3 walls.

I've been making their outlines with index card.

I have some fine tuning to do and luckily they are falling into place.

It's all of that extra detail I am now noticing that I am now asking what have I gotten myself into.

The photos I have don't have the leather half cover like the Hartmann G-14,

so all of the conduit, wiring, and lightening holes are exposed. Oh me!


I received a PM from a gentleman by the name of (Mr.) Ali, who, it appears cannot post as of yet,

noticed that I had installed the control column here (and to the G-14 on the other thread) backward.


You are as right as rain! Thank you for your eagle eye.

Luckily they snapped off at the point of connection and after a little sanding and scraping

they were able to drop into place without too noticeable a reveal.


Thanks for looking.



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I've been plugging away on the wheel wells and did some bits on this and the G-14 in the Tribute to Russ Group Build to take a break from the wells.



Exhaust shields cut from and aluminum pan top.



I made the spent cartridge chutes anyway. Out of the same aluminum.



Outside wall. I'm building out the wall edges.



Inside wall. As luck would have it, I did OK the first go around.



This was the easiest wall. How could it not be? It's just trimmed squared strip.

I cut some index card strip and taped each to the spar on the wing's top and bottom

then glued them together. This solved the problem quickly.



I found it's easy and fast to check the fit if the wing is clam-shelled.


That's all for now.

Thanks for looking.



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Hey Mark,


Excellent build so far. Just noticed however, you might have positioned the cockpit joystick backwards. The bomb release trigger (left button on the top of the joystick) should be reached by the thumb (right hand) while the pilot is seated. I'm looking forward to your work in progress!





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