Butler Posted March 24, 2009 Share Posted March 24, 2009 I've tried a little PVA on a couple of edges and it works a treat. I've found the left-over ridges will just rub off with a dry finger later! I wonder if it would be any good for masking chipped areas, i.e. a bit stronger than the normal latex stuff? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rotary Posted March 24, 2009 Share Posted March 24, 2009 That's why I recommended smoothing it with a moist cotton bud Dave. Also, the tiny little ridges that may get left behind unnoticed after swabbing are actually sandable. You'll notice a tiny little sanding spot directly in front of the windscreen where I did this. Sure, large lumps are not amendable to sanding, but small ridges are, which is all you should be left with using this technique anyway. It's not a panacea for filling and sanding woes, but a useful tool in the gap-filling armoury nonetheless. Kev absolutely---- i only made the point to forewarn anyone who hasn't used it before. cheers, dave. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bcauchi Posted March 25, 2009 Share Posted March 25, 2009 |Beautiful work there. i think it is looking great. I long to see some paint on it. They had some really attractive color schemes. Well done, you did an excellent job of it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bdthoresen Posted March 25, 2009 Share Posted March 25, 2009 Kev I love the work on this beast- Keep hammering- And remember, some of us are waaaay slower than you! LOL- THOR Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_Ron Posted March 25, 2009 Share Posted March 25, 2009 Looks good Kevin. That's a bit of a bear of a kit fit wise so it looks great Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_Kevin Posted April 3, 2009 Author Share Posted April 3, 2009 Thanks for the kind words guys. I've finally got some paint on the thing, but am going through my usual dramas. Allowing me to use an airbrush is like giving a machine gun to a baboon. Anyway, I read with some interest a post on HyperScale by Rafe Morrisey a few weeks back, about how to create realistic finishes for model aircraft. I'm sure some of you have read it too. Intrigued, inspired and I must say, impressed, I thought I might give his methods a try on this old bird. The first step is to undercoat the entire model with flat black (I'm using NATO Black here), and this is where I went wrong. The paint went on too dry and became chalky, almost powdery in places. I failed to notice this before applying the under surface colour, so even after a rub down and a minor respray, the finish is awful. A few coats of clear gloss and some weathering should make it adequate as a shelf-sitter though. I've given the top surfaces a much more thorough rub down to help smooth it out. Next step is to mask and then spray the EDSG top colour. The idea with the flat black undercoat is that you make the top coat quite patchy, varying its coverage and intensity to break up the monotony. You don't want the black showing through directly, but rather, subtly affecting the top colour to provide variation. Think of it more like random preshading. There's more to Rafe's approach than that, so I'll see how it pans out in the end. EDIT Oh, does anyone have the original Matchbox painting and decalling instructions? The option I'm building doesn't feature in the new Revell releases, and I had to throw out the ones that came with my kit. I'm just not sure about placement for some of the smaller decals, but most especially, the tip tank chequers. A scan would be most appreciated! Kev Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Allok Posted April 3, 2009 Share Posted April 3, 2009 Oh, does anyone have the original Matchbox painting and decalling instructions? The option I'm building doesn't feature in the new Revell releases, and I had to throw out the ones that came with my kit. I'm just not sure about placement for some of the smaller decals, but most especially, the tip tank chequers. A scan would be most appreciated!Kev I think I can help, have a trashed one I'm going to modify beyond recognition. It's the original release with a colour plan. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_Kevin Posted April 3, 2009 Author Share Posted April 3, 2009 I think I can help, have a trashed one I'm going to modify beyond recognition. It's the original release with a colour plan. Ah, that would be great Keith! If you've got it, and can scan it, let me know via PM. I'm up to my armpits in masking tape right now... Kev Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WildWeasel78 Posted April 3, 2009 Share Posted April 3, 2009 Looks very good the old matchbox kit is not easy to built ,but its a good basic for more Details and other. greetings Michael Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_Ron Posted April 3, 2009 Share Posted April 3, 2009 The finish looks good in the pictures Kevin. Ron Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_Kevin Posted April 8, 2009 Author Share Posted April 8, 2009 OK, time for another update. I'm hoping to finish this off over the Easter weekend, so some progress is in order. Painting is complete, other than some minor touch-ups, and the undercarriage is on. I've yet to add the gear doors, but she's otherwise ready for gloss coating. Oh, I mustn't forget to paint the tip tanks! Here's a quick tip for masking large areas quickly, cheaply and painlessly: The photo should speak for itself. It's a great technique for anyone as ham-fisted with an airbrush as I am. Gear doors, painted, washed and awaiting fitment: And here's how the model looks at the moment: I tried really hard with the upper surface to produce a subtly variable finish, using a multi-stage post-shading approach for the first time. I'm really happy with the way it turned out, though I'm not sure if you can really see the effect properly in the photo. I'll certainly be using this approach again, as it seems especially effective on darker, monotone surfaces. Thanks to Keith (Allok) for the markings guide too. Now I just hope the kit stickers don't let me down! Kev tomv87 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mgbooyv8 Posted April 8, 2009 Share Posted April 8, 2009 Hi Kev, Looking good! It seems you will finish it sooner than me. I hope the decals work out o.k. (I saw the old Matchbox decalson the picture ;o) ) Cheers, Peter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ruzlkampf Posted April 9, 2009 Share Posted April 9, 2009 Attaboy, Kevin!!!! I've got to admire the tenacity you show in always sticking with your builds and getting them done. I can remember when you showed us the moldy box, and buck-shotted directions when you brought this home. Cool! That paint-job is outstanding! He he, you never cease to amaze me my friend. Can't wait to see it with some 'red roos' on it. This kit, and your rebuilding of the Revell Zero have inspired me to do something along the same lines. I got a couple of forlorn Revell P-40E kits (directions are yellowed, but I think say 1967) that I want to revamp into Aussie P-40N's. I understand why you do this now,...lot's and lot's of fun! I opened the boxes, and I was 12 years old again. Ahhh, the way it was. (cept this time, I might not get glue on the canopies? he he!) Bring this one on home, Kevin. Can't wait to see it with some markings! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Allok Posted April 9, 2009 Share Posted April 9, 2009 This is starting to look very good indeed. Well done so far, Kev. Great idea with the plastic bag, mine only go in one of those after I've given up I could probably help out with decals if your ones don't work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bdthoresen Posted April 9, 2009 Share Posted April 9, 2009 Kevin- A fine paintjob on the Sea Venom- Keep it up!!!!! THOR Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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