Kaeone57

Damn!!! By the looks of it...Another must have kit!!
 
Question... Would this Mk.I Hurricane be appropriate for any 303 Squadron mounts? My lack of Hurricane MK. variant knowledge is apparent!
 
Alfonso 

Looks like a fan and I also see support brackets on the mid fuselage under the rear gunners cockpit.. Maybe equipment for target towing, or smoke screening!? If for smoke screening then what appears to be a depth bomb could then be a smoke generator!?
 
Alfonso

Looking at photos of the -5 and -6, I can see that the -5 has a carb intake at the top/aft end while the -6 does not. The -6 also has a longer cowling. Can anyone advise on a suitable donor? Or explain the reason for the change?
 

I am very excited by this new kit, such beautiful aircraft

 
I plan to build the plane on the picture and I have two questions :
 
1) The plane on the picture is armed with depth bombs MK XVII.  I  didnt find these bombs in 1/32 scale, any ideas ?
2) there is something above the low wing ( a circle ? insignia ?).  suggestions ?
 
Thank you

This looks awesome; I have a few Lukgraph kits and I'd put them right at the top of the pile in terms of quality.
 
Just thinking about how easy it would be to do a USAF OA-12 (J2F-6) from the -5 kit? I assume I'd need a new/modified cowling but is there anything else? 

Those schemes are for early Ducks, as evidenced by the shallow cowling. Maybe that'll be the follow-up from Lukgraph.
 
 
 
Matt

USCG would be an interesting option for sure. 
 

 
 

 
 

Think it should be straight forward as the J2F-5 and -6 only differ in an upgraded R-1820. The cowling is the same for both!
 
Alfonso

All great suggestions on "clear parts" adhesive's and how too's. Though, for the particular rear "clear" parts in question, they're not needed!
 
Hasegawa molded the turtleback/ rear deck windows as two part halves with the rear windows molded in, so need to use anything for clear parts mentioned! The parts have a seam on top, and bottom and rear.
 
IIRC, the rear "break needs to be feathered in as that is not an actual panel line. Safe to say you can attach them with regular plastic adhesive, insert favorite brand here!
 
HTH,
 
Alfonso 
 

NICE PICS!!!
 
The only "late" or J2F-5/6 in these pics is the one shipboard with the snowy mountain background 3/4 front shot. Looks like it may be in all white or in Atlantic Gray's and white Counter shade scheme. It also has later US markings with bars and surround. Not clear on if the marking is all Insignia blue and white or if it has the red surround?
 
Also of note is the cowling and prop when it comes to some of the "visual differnces" when it comes to the Duck!
 
WOW... Can't believe there's a Duck kit! Whish it was IM, but... Still gonna shoot the shot when possible!!! YESSSSSS 
 
Alfonso

YESSSSSS, YESSSSSS, YESSSSSS!!!
 
Great bash and execution with the combination of the Revell and Special Hobby Kits!!! I have the same build/bash pending but she'll be a car door Tiffie!! I'm only missing the "glass" as my Revell "car door" is missing the "glass" !!! 
Still messing around with my Revell/aftermarket and some Trumpy parts on a P-47D-23RE, pics and write up pending as I build at a sloths pace!
 
PM inbound!
Alfonso 

My apologies, I missed your post!
 
Alfonso

Exactly what I was saying on page one.  Here’s a pic just before priming.  You can see where I had to fill the gap with sprue goo. 
 

I then prescribe the lies using my razor saw. 
after primer

All great suggestions on "clear parts" adhesive's and how too's. Though, for the particular rear "clear" parts in question, they're not needed!
 
Hasegawa molded the turtleback/ rear deck windows as two part halves with the rear windows molded in, so need to use anything for clear parts mentioned! The parts have a seam on top, and bottom and rear.
 
IIRC, the rear "break needs to be feathered in as that is not an actual panel line. Safe to say you can attach them with regular plastic adhesive, insert favorite brand here!
 
HTH,
 
Alfonso 
 

All great suggestions on "clear parts" adhesive's and how too's. Though, for the particular rear "clear" parts in question, they're not needed!
 
Hasegawa molded the turtleback/ rear deck windows as two part halves with the rear windows molded in, so need to use anything for clear parts mentioned! The parts have a seam on top, and bottom and rear.
 
IIRC, the rear "break needs to be feathered in as that is not an actual panel line. Safe to say you can attach them with regular plastic adhesive, insert favorite brand here!
 
HTH,
 
Alfonso 
 

WOW, just a BIG FAT.... WOW!!!
Gorgeous work all around on both of you!!!
 
WOW... In a "Great Escape" while making "potent potato juice" type of Way!! Just...
 
Wooooow!
Alfonso 

WOW, just a BIG FAT.... WOW!!!
Gorgeous work all around on both of you!!!
 
WOW... In a "Great Escape" while making "potent potato juice" type of Way!! Just...
 
Wooooow!
Alfonso 

Not to add any fuel to the fire, but Revell did it also on their F4U-1 and etc... 
That deflection on the horizontal fin has been documented, well, rendered
on a few kits prior... Not gonna list them all but.. yeah that's been a known fact since I started seriously modeling in the mid '80's... I'm 50yrs young, so... Yeah! Lol
 
Alfonso 

YESSSSSS!!!
 
NICE work all around! LOVE me an A-4! Got one in the started pile in USS Constellation experimenttal camo scheme!
 
Scooting Along on your Scooter I see, keep going!
 
Alfonso

One of my favorites!! Being a PTO and anything Corsair related from early '43 till mid '44, I can dig it! LOL
 
Of note and there's also more footage of her during this time, and before is .. F4U-1 Birdcage, White 576(Marines Dream)! Plus all the others...Ahhhh, Shadow/Counter shade scheme Corsair porn! LOL
 
GREAT share!!
Alfonso 

One of my favorites!! Being a PTO and anything Corsair related from early '43 till mid '44, I can dig it! LOL
 
Of note and there's also more footage of her during this time, and before is .. F4U-1 Birdcage, White 576(Marines Dream)! Plus all the others...Ahhhh, Shadow/Counter shade scheme Corsair porn! LOL
 
GREAT share!!
Alfonso 

YESSSSSS!!!
 
NICE work all around! LOVE me an A-4! Got one in the started pile in USS Constellation experimenttal camo scheme!
 
Scooting Along on your Scooter I see, keep going!
 
Alfonso

LSP!!
 
Greetings Gentlemen and Ladies of this clique...
 
Regardless of kit being talked about. The "Best" in MHO..(My Honest Opinion) flushed rivets.. style.. goes to Revell! How they represented "flush rivets" in their Bf-109 and Spitfire kits of the late '60's to me is where it's at!!! Regardless of the issues with these kits, rivet style wise is the way to go, In my honest opinion!
 
I know that things have moved forward in kits production.. but, and I reiterate, but...
 Rivets are this, no?
 
Well, as best can be represented in 1/32, 1/24 scale! Oil canning is optional but a "hole" is just a hole in my mind! Hard to play with when it comes to color/weathering for such!
 
My own take on it as I'm in the beginnings of messing with a Revell P-47 Razorback and thinking about such and how/what to do in this application!
 
Just my take!
 
Alfonso

LSP!!
 
Greetings Gentlemen and Ladies of this clique...
 
Regardless of kit being talked about. The "Best" in MHO..(My Honest Opinion) flushed rivets.. style.. goes to Revell! How they represented "flush rivets" in their Bf-109 and Spitfire kits of the late '60's to me is where it's at!!! Regardless of the issues with these kits, rivet style wise is the way to go, In my honest opinion!
 
I know that things have moved forward in kits production.. but, and I reiterate, but...
 Rivets are this, no?
 
Well, as best can be represented in 1/32, 1/24 scale! Oil canning is optional but a "hole" is just a hole in my mind! Hard to play with when it comes to color/weathering for such!
 
My own take on it as I'm in the beginnings of messing with a Revell P-47 Razorback and thinking about such and how/what to do in this application!
 
Just my take!
 
Alfonso