dodgem37

Wouldn't mind you putting me down for a set as well. Thank you. Sincerely, Mark

https://www.californiaairtools.com/contractor-grade-ultra-quiet-series-of-air-compressors/3-5-hp-air-compressor/cat-1p1060s/ Works for me. Sincerely, Mark

Built this in 2022, I think. Showed it at Armor Modeling And Preservation Society (AMPS) National Convention in 2023. Won a Gold. Photo bomb. Hope you enjoy. Molded & cast 1/24 Hasegawa Kubelwagon accessories. Box of machine gun ammo cartridges. Another view. Molded and cast water and fuel can. US fuel cans, German water cans. Miscellaneous stowage. Scratch built Sand Channel. x2. Thanks for looking. Sincerely, Mark

https://distefano3dprint.com/products/1-32-ijn-kawanishi-n1k1-kyofu-kit Sincerely, Mark

Good is a relative term. For what you get, it is a beginning. https://www.largescaleplanes.com/articles/article.php?aid=740 Put some time into a Rex myself. Sincerely, Mark

My Brother, where you at? Finished mine last year. Sincerely, Mark

'It doesn't really matter though - regardless of ground line orientation, . . .' The higher the tail the less main landing gear deflection. The weight is transferred from horizontal, pushing the main landing gear forward, to the vertical, pushing the main landing gear down. Just sayin'. Sincerely, Mark

How much flex is there from relaxed position (no weight bearing) to stress position (weight bearing)? Your .07, 4.318mm, YIKES! may be coming from that. Another thing, does the point of the tail support angle match that of the real aircraft, so that if the line is continued, the model would be sitting on its' tailwheel? Just thinking out loud. Sincerely, Mark

Is the method of correction you're proposing the right way to make the correction? Or the short way to make the correction? The long way to make the correction may be the best. Changing the insert angle to match your need is one option. Offering a ball joint is another, though fraught with peril. Good luck, Jay. Always a pleasure looking in. Sincerely, Mark

'Still having the issues with ordering on the Kotare website.' Try the following: When you are asked to type your address, insert your entire address, from house number to postal code. If you insert only your house number and street name the site will not work. Sincerely, Mark

BRAVO!, Bro! Sincerely, Mark

A jig. One that the bottom/base can set into. Sincerely, Mark

Too wonderful for words, Jaybo. I do have to say, 'I feel ya.' Sincerely, Mark

I ran into a similar problem, tho mine was with a wing. To separate the parts I reasoned that if I run a bead of weld along the seam it would loosen the seam and I would be able to separate the parts, as I had used weld to melt the plastic to begin with to glue them together. I did so, and the weld loosened the bond and I was able to pry the wing apart without damage and start anew. Hope this helps. Sincerely, Mark

Sincerely, Mark

https://ak-interactive.com/es/producto/pack-vintage-trumpeter-junkers-ju-87b-2-stuka-1-32-with-detail-correction-set/ Sincerely, Mark

Love what you’re doing, Jay. Grafix Dura-Lar Wet Media Acetate. Sincerely, Mark.

Does Fusion 360 allow you to penetrate/add to the face of a cylinder or do you have to make a rectangle, penetrate/add, then fillet the edges to get a penetrated/added to cylinder? Thank you. Sincerely, Mark

For what it's worth. Sincerely, Mark

Love your work, John. '. . . no word on the clear canopy replacement from Tamiya for the Spitfire XIVe . . ' After communicating with Tamiya regularly, and waiting 5 years, I gave up and bought a canopy on eBay. Good luck with them. '. . . digitizing the irregular line patterns in AutoCAD is quite onerous . . ' I scan decals, draw them in Adobe Illustrator then print them on a Silhouette. For a soft painted edge I use printer paper instead of mask. I elevate the paper above the surface and get a soft overspray edge. Good luck. Sincerely, Mark

Alrighty then. Thank you. Sincerely, Mark

The seat appears to be upside-down. Sincerely, Mark

Thank you, Sirs. Sincerely, Mark

Time to move this to RfI. I started this kit about 25 years ago, worked on it for 5 years then put it aside for 20. I picked it back up a year ago May, and finished it in March. Silver medal at AMPS 2024. Hope you like it. Mantlet and turret side (found under stowage box) blazer blocks. Completed rear deck. Took me three times to figure that out. Search light carrier attached to turret next to bustle. Other side. Exhaust horns, latches on rear deck, travel lock, stretcher. New Mantlet, Glacis, Fender, and Hull blazer blocks. Other side. Front fenders, turret smoke grenade launchers, turret cheek blazer armor, drawn and 3D printed main gun, aluminum foil as fabric dust cover, headlights and guards. Stowage. Registration number lower center glacis. Smoke grenade launcher. Ended up using blue painters tape as dust cover. Tail end of things. Turret details with stowage layout. 3D drawn and printed mortar. Scratched base. Other details. Commanders periscope with windshield wiper. Electrical connection to right for left smoke grenade launcher. Pioneer tools. Fire extinguisher. Stretcher. Tow cable stowage. FN MAG machine gun, ammo box carrier with ammo box inside. Drawn and 3D printed. Other side. GasPatch 1/24 .30 cal. bullets. .50 cal. mounting condition and ammo box holder and ammo box. Aluminum foil dust cover. Exhaust horn, fuel cap, grill locking handle. Travel lock Misc. detail. Hand made stencils for all Markings. Lead foil bustle identification panels. Individually applied numbers on stowage boxes and side skirts. Individually applied numbers on registration plate on glacis. Numbers are part numbers from sprues. They are in relief on a small square ground. I cut the square off of the sprue and sanded the backing off until I had the number. Then I attached the numbers with saliva, which is sticky. When dry I touched it with liquid cement. Thanks for looking. Sincerely, Mark

Thank you, my brothers. Sincerely, Mark