VintageEagle

After a loooooooong time an update: when I read that Zoukei Mura will bring a new Fw 190 at the end of the year, I thought I needed to complete my Revell Fw 190 now or never.
 
The build stalled in January when I tried to install some wires inside the wheel bay. I lost patience with these small parts, but didn't want to continue without the wires installed. I finally found the motivation to give it another go and I think I succeeded (at least so that I can finally continue). Next I will install the MG 151s. and then I can attach the wings to the fuselage.
 

 

Hi everyone,
 
I was struggling with figuring out the best way to attach wires, cables, etc. inside the wheel well and thought it is best to focus on other parts first before I finish the wheel wells. 
 
I glued, sanded and riveted the elevators. I also designed the serial number on the PC as a vector graphic. The original was handpainted and had some irregularities. Peter from @airscale was so kind to help me get the number printed on a decal sheet. Thank you very much Peter! 
 
I then worked on the rudder. I didn't like the raised ribs on the Revell rudder and removed them. I also made the bulge for the tail light smaller to match it more with the original. I then worked on another vector graphics of the rudder ribs using the original Focke Wulf drawing. I then cut the ribs with my Cricut cutter and used the following process: 
 
1) Applied the ribs to act as a positioning guide for the inner parts
2) Applied the inner parts
3) Removed the ribs
4) Sprayed Mr. Surfacer 500
5) Removed the inner parts --> the ribs now are slightly raised vs. the inner parts
6) Applied strips of black decal sheet to imitate the fabric tape that was applied on the original
 
Next, I'll add a layer of white Mr. Surfacer 1500 and hopefully the effect is as expected. It was a lot of work and I'll have to use a similar approach for the elevator and ailerons as well.
 
That's all for now. Next will be a short update after I have applied paint to the rudder.
 
Cheers,
 
Roger
 
First, a photo of an original rudder where you can see the rib structure and fabric tape:

 
Then, the process to recreate this (to the right the unaltered Revell part for comparison):

 

 

 

 

 
 

Finally! Riveting of the wing's upper and lower surfaces is complete. To get the rivet pattern as close to the original as possible, I used photos from actual aircraft, original spare parts manual and even original Focke Wulf riveting instructions. Most of the rivet pattern won't be visible well once the aircraft is painted, but it gives me peace of mind to know that the pattern is close to the original pattern. I added the landing flap indicator hole as well as the control link inspection holes on the upper surface. I still need to install the MG 151 covers on the upper surface, but the two pin holes are already drilled. I also added the rivets to the leading edge, which was a bit a challenge due to the bent surface. 
 
Next will be the landing gear bay where I will use a combination of Eduard P/E and Revell parts. I won't use all of Eduard's P/E parts as in my opinion some of them a) don't fit well and b) don't resemble the original parts. 
 
One other challenge I have is the cover of the outboard MG 151 canons. They are not moulded into the Revell kit parts, but Revell just asks you to drill a hole into the leading edge (as the wing was made for the original Fw 190 F-8 kit that didn't have these outboard canons). The original covers look like the one in the last photo below. EagleParts offers such covers in 1/32, but they need to be glued on top of the leading edge, while the original cover was flush with the leading edge. I'll therefore try to scribe the panel lines (difficult around a bent surface) and to build the parts myself using a plastic tube and some filler. If that won't give the results I hope for, I'll go with the EagleParts cover and will try to sand it a bit thinner. 
 
Still a lot to do, but finally a different task ahead than the hours of riveting and one big step closer to complete assembly to start painting.
 
Cheers,
 
Roger
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Hi there, I am an extremely slow builder, but I finally made a little more progress and managed to install the windshield. Some putty was needed but finally all went well. On the real 190 there were some frames on the lower windshield that connected it with the fuselage. I have added self-adhesive paper strips. The advantage is that you get a nice panel line. I’ll add primer over the weekend. Next is riveting of the wings. Cheers, Roger

Good evening,
 
So, finally I can post two photos. Note that I have not yet added all the bits and pieces (control stick, rudders, some handles and levers, belts, auxiliary panel to the lower instrument panel) yet as I first want to finish dry fitting it into the fuselage in order not to risk breaking off some small parts. I also haven't managed to apply the flat coat yet. After the flat coat, I also plan to add clear coats over the individual instrument dials.
 
Note the dirt on the floor. German instrument panels usually had the electrical wiring diagram codes of the instruments painted onto the panel. I tried to recreate this by applying some tiny white dots and dashes with a very sharp brush. Electrical cables were usually wrapped by yellow plastic at the end of the war, which I also tried to recreate. I will add some more drybrushing / shading to the leather cushion as it looks to flat right now.
 
One questions I have for you experts: I have tried Tamiya, Mr. Color and Vallejo flat coats tonight, but none of them were really flat. I may have used the wrong mixture or thinner as I have read very positive things about e.g. the Vallejo flat coat. What do you usually use to seal the cockpit (flat, satin, which brand, which mixture)?
 
G-Man, I have to try Mr. Mark Setter and Mr. Mark Softer then. When I wanted to buy it at the local hobby store it was sold out and I went for the other brands, but I have heard good things about the two Mr. Marks. At least when the cockpit, filling and sanding is done, the fun part can begin. Better to start with the hard work and then the fun :-)
 
Cheers,
 
Roger
 

 

 

After a loooooooong time an update: when I read that Zoukei Mura will bring a new Fw 190 at the end of the year, I thought I needed to complete my Revell Fw 190 now or never.
 
The build stalled in January when I tried to install some wires inside the wheel bay. I lost patience with these small parts, but didn't want to continue without the wires installed. I finally found the motivation to give it another go and I think I succeeded (at least so that I can finally continue). Next I will install the MG 151s. and then I can attach the wings to the fuselage.
 

 

After a loooooooong time an update: when I read that Zoukei Mura will bring a new Fw 190 at the end of the year, I thought I needed to complete my Revell Fw 190 now or never.
 
The build stalled in January when I tried to install some wires inside the wheel bay. I lost patience with these small parts, but didn't want to continue without the wires installed. I finally found the motivation to give it another go and I think I succeeded (at least so that I can finally continue). Next I will install the MG 151s. and then I can attach the wings to the fuselage.
 

 

After a loooooooong time an update: when I read that Zoukei Mura will bring a new Fw 190 at the end of the year, I thought I needed to complete my Revell Fw 190 now or never.
 
The build stalled in January when I tried to install some wires inside the wheel bay. I lost patience with these small parts, but didn't want to continue without the wires installed. I finally found the motivation to give it another go and I think I succeeded (at least so that I can finally continue). Next I will install the MG 151s. and then I can attach the wings to the fuselage.
 

 

After a loooooooong time an update: when I read that Zoukei Mura will bring a new Fw 190 at the end of the year, I thought I needed to complete my Revell Fw 190 now or never.
 
The build stalled in January when I tried to install some wires inside the wheel bay. I lost patience with these small parts, but didn't want to continue without the wires installed. I finally found the motivation to give it another go and I think I succeeded (at least so that I can finally continue). Next I will install the MG 151s. and then I can attach the wings to the fuselage.
 

 

The Fw 190 fuselage hatch looks like an A-4 or earlier type. I hope they will also bring an A/F-8 or -9. 

The Fw 190 fuselage hatch looks like an A-4 or earlier type. I hope they will also bring an A/F-8 or -9. 

Thanks Bill!  I was really aiming for the painted on look and wasn't 100% successful but I'm ok with the result.  Using a knife on decals is a bit tricky and sometimes you end up pulling decal material up and off the model instead of cutting through it.  The wash helps cover this but I had to resort to some micro-spray repairs with the airbrush on some areas.  Not gonna say where! 
 
 
 
 
Thank you Peter!  And I wanna be able to manipulate metal materials to create complex parts from scratch! 
 
 
 
 
Yeah, the salt fading is kind of a pain to deal with.  Leftover salt is one of the issues.  After removal, I usually let the model sit for a few days to completely dry out so I can catch all of the remnant salt particles.  And I avoid spraying the model with a flat AFTER the salt process as it tends to encourage the salt frosting effect.
 
 
 
 
Thank you Jeff!  It looks pretty random now but I DID follow a certain series of steps to build up the paint scheme from a possible factory finish to the field-applied camo reflected in the archive photos of Yellow 10.
 
 
 
 
Thank you!  The whole history of this particular D-13 is fascinating and we are so lucky to have her preserved in a museum now, especially reunited with the original wings.
 
 
 
 
Thanks so much Alain!  It's gratifying now to look back at the doubts/questions/concerns I had about this project when I decided to try and create the forward fuselage bumps with plastic sheet and putty instead of relying on the cast resin part.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 
We are in the homestretch of this build and I'm starting to add the last external bits and pieces.  Here is a view of the bottom with the wheels attached.  The treaded tire is from Barracuda Studios while the smooth one is from the kit.

 
 
The canopy masks have been removed.



 
 
The wooden flaps have been "temporarily" attached with small blobs of CA glue.  To ease transport, the flaps can be easily removed.

 
 
The starboard wing with the wing tip light and pitot tube.

 
 
The boarding ladder and the small antenna pieces on the bottom have been added. 

 
 
She's just about done so the next step will be photograph the bottom with the big camera, attach the aerial and take the final photos!

April 28/21
 
 
Short Update, but I think an important one- and I’m feeling a little pressure.  I got a hold of Giovanni and he will be contributing to this thread a bit later, maybe on the weekend, and I want to complete a few things before he does.  With all this free resin I want to do a good job with it before "the boss" shows up!    He is working on their new website and like everyone else, has a real job, so he is tight for time right now.
 
 
With most of the new resin parts figured out, it was time to re-wire the back bulkhead.  The kit bulkhead has wiring, but like any molded wiring, it looks too perfect and artificial, so this resin part is a clean slate to add your own.  Although time consuming, this was easy to do with lead wire and bits of strip PE to act as fastener straps.  This wiring isn't perfectly accurate by any means, partly because the surrounding parts are not always to scale and I didn't want wiring to get in the way of the side consoles.
 
The new resin Landing Gear Emergency Valve was also glued into place, because it required a shim underneath to hold it in place, which is easier done now than after paint.  Archer decal rivets were also added after sanding the resin smooth, with a few missing on the sides where they collide with the side cockpit consoles.
 
 

 
 
With the kit oxygen bottle and wiring cover dry fit.  Note that I cut a hole on the bottom of the cover for the additional small lines that come out the bottom and over to the side wall.
 
 

 
 
Everything dry fit to the starboard fuselage and instruments, where I added additional wiring and switches that were removed from the kit parts, by drilling small holes and inserting small bits of wire, glued from the bottom.  According to the Airscale instructions, I should have inserted instrument decals between the PE and kit parts first after painting, but I didn’t want to risk getting glue on anything after paint.  I will add individual gauges later after painting, which is easier for me to do by personal preference only.
 
 

 
 
I glued the lattice-like console part E17 to the fuselage wall, and the corresponding Part E24 on the port side wall, because they don’t fit very well without plastic glue to hold them in place.  If they were glued on after paint, they would be tricky to do without glue showing, so it’s better to get this step over with now when you can easily cleanup any mess.  I’m glad I did, because E17 needed a bit of trimming with a knife to get the main assembly E21 to fit over it snugly without leaving gaps, which is only dry fit until after paint.  Having added wire switches to the top already, placement of the Airscale decal over them will be a very delicate procedure, but I think I have a good idea of how to do it.
 
 

 
 
With the cockpit bottom dry fit, to ensure alignment of the back wall wiring with that on the floor, which I’m going to leave alone because it’s “good enough” for me, especially on the floor.  I had to cut off one of the hoses on Part D38 and use a replacement one made of lead, to get over the new wiring.  I was going to drill out the holes in the floor cross members, but you can't see any of it from above, especially with the seat installed, so I skipped it as a waste of time.
 
 

 
 
Next up, the other port side.  Thanks for looking in.
 
 
 
 
Cheers,
Chuck

Thanks everyone for reading and watching progress. It's done! RFI below the image.

 
 
 

Time to put the Light Blue RLM 76 on.  I am using Mr Hobby Aqueous RLM 76 mixed 50:50 with White.  In order for the preshading to work properly, I want my paint mix very thin so that I can control the build-up of the color slowly.  I thin the paint at a 2:1 thinner to paint ratio.  I start at the bottom because I'm paranoid about the tape mask on the metal paint and want to remove that as quick as possible.







 
 
Once the bottom is done, I can flip the model over and start covering the sides with RLM 76.  The key is to keep the airbrush moving to prevent pooling of the watery paint.  I work sections at a time and apply paint until the preshade pattern is hardly noticeable.  Since there is a lot of thinner in the mix, it will cut into the preshade so it is always important to give the finish a few minutes to stabilize before determining whether an area is finished.





 
 
It takes some time to build up the color but its important not to rush.  Too much paint and you'll lose the preshading effect completely.



 
 
After the RLM 76 is done, the wing colors (RLM 74 and 75) are applied to the top of the wings and horizontal stabilizers.  Again Mr Hobby Aqueous is the paint used and the same thinner ratio is used.  A small amount hairspray chipping was done at the wing roots but it will be mostly covered by the final round of camo painting.





 

 
Next will be upper fuselage colors...

Thanks guys! Always appreciate the input!
 
 
Thank you for that observation.  Another edit right under the deadline!  Very easy to do since no paint has been laid down yet.  I based my line on this photo of Yellow 10.



 
 
I added a couple of panel lines to the bottom as well...

 
 
The landing gear covers were painted.  I added some primer marks around the landing gear attachment bolts. Chipping might be too heavy based on what I'm seeing on the reference photos so a re-do might be in order.  The color, if anyone is curious, is AK Real Color RLM 81 Version 1 (RC323).  Which indicates the direction I'll be going when it comes to the camo colors of Yellow 10.

 

The gear doors on "Yellow 10" were RLM 75 that did was softly sprayed and did not cover the complete door. RLM is too dark when compared to the darker areas of the original camo. See my photos.
   Cheers, Jerry

This is my recently completed build of the Revell Me262B-1/U-1 kit in 1/32 scale.  I have chosen to depict Red 10 of 10./NJG11, which was one of four Me262B nightfighters captured by the Allies at the end of the war.
 

 
 
The aftermarket item list for this build is as follows:
1. Master FuG 218 Neptun brass radar assembly
2. Barracuda Me262 resin wheels
3. HGW Me262B fabric seatbelts
4. Eduard Me262B-1 Exterior set
5. Eduard Me262B-1 Interior set
6. Eduard Me262B-1 Mask set
 
Please note that large portions of the Eduard Exterior and Interior set went unused.  Major markings were painted using masks produced with a Silhouette Portrait cutter.  Kit decals were used for the remainder of the markings.
 









 
 






 
 
 
The start-to-finish build thread can be referenced at the following link:
 
 
 

Absolutely amazing work! 

Danke!  The sun was out this morning so I was able to get the model outside for the finished photos.  I got some stuff to do today before I can process and post all of the pics but here is a teaser...
 

Hi John,
 
I am excited about your latest project. I have this one also, but haven't found the time yet to work on it. In the past few months my focus has turned to finishing my Captured Eagles Vol. 2 book. Anyways, what I never liked about both Revell's and Eduard's panels is that they are based on Me 262 A-1a panels and more specifically: early-production panel with color coding of a JG 7 aircraft. Most won't bother as the differences are not huge, but I always hoped that there would be a nice and correct aftermarket panel. 
 
 There was an attempt by a forum member to 3D print such parts, but I think in the end the resolution was not high enough: 
 
 
Instrument colors:
The red and white colors around the instrument dials was a typical feature of some JG 7 aircraft. Messerschmitt prepared a document with illustrations of how JG 7 has color-coded their instruments in a technical report from 1945 (I have a copy of that report that I copied at the NASM archives in Washington). I have only seen this type of color coding in cockpits of some JG 7 aircraft. Otherwise, the fuel related gauges were yellow in almost all late war production Me 262, but the temperature and rpm indicators had simple red lines on the respective limits.
 
Instruments:
Late war production models had a number of instruments missing. This was the result of an "Entfeinerung" effort towards the end of 1944, where as many parts as possible were removed in order to use less resources and a lower variety of different components. The jet engine differential pressure gauges, indicator for pitot tube heating in the blind flying panel and others were no longer installed. Careful study of the wartime photo of the Me 262 B panel (e.g. published in Smith/Creek's 4 volume book series; see below) helps determine which ones exactly. In the B-panel below there was just one fuel pressure gauge (yellow ring) and one oil pressure gauge (red-brown ring). The instrument to the right is a small voltage indicator that was inserted from behind. Then there is the auxiliary t&b indicator on the left of the temperature indicators. The temperature indicators have an unusually bright ring. I suspect it was white.
 
In addition, except for some early production Me 262s, the electrical indicators for the 4 MK 108 underneath the SZKK2 were never installed. The Me 262 B had a large repeater compass and not the small one of the A-1a. There, Eduard used the correct compass, but an incorrect shape of the blind flying panel. Eduard's panel is the one that was used in the Me 262 A-1 equipped as a bad weather fighter (FuG 125, autopilot) as documented by a wartime drawing and also a panel that was brought to the US. The nightfighter blind flying panel was made out of metal sheet (and not wood like in the bad weather fighter) and had a different shape. The lower edge consisted of straight lines and not a curved one. The nightfighter also had an additional 80mm instrument in a simple auxiliary panel attached to the lower edge of the main panel. I believe it was a double manifold pressure gauge to indicate the pressure difference of the two jet exhausts. The same instrument was used in the Ar 234 for example so that the pilot could easily determine if both engines had the same thrust. In the panel below there was a rectangular, late production rate of climb indicator, but the round one was more common.
 
But as I said at the beginning, most will not bother as the differences are small and a lot of effort would be involved to correct every detail. 
 
I am looking forward to your build.
 
Cheers,
 
Roger
 

 
 
 
 

Hi John,
 
I am excited about your latest project. I have this one also, but haven't found the time yet to work on it. In the past few months my focus has turned to finishing my Captured Eagles Vol. 2 book. Anyways, what I never liked about both Revell's and Eduard's panels is that they are based on Me 262 A-1a panels and more specifically: early-production panel with color coding of a JG 7 aircraft. Most won't bother as the differences are not huge, but I always hoped that there would be a nice and correct aftermarket panel. 
 
 There was an attempt by a forum member to 3D print such parts, but I think in the end the resolution was not high enough: 
 
 
Instrument colors:
The red and white colors around the instrument dials was a typical feature of some JG 7 aircraft. Messerschmitt prepared a document with illustrations of how JG 7 has color-coded their instruments in a technical report from 1945 (I have a copy of that report that I copied at the NASM archives in Washington). I have only seen this type of color coding in cockpits of some JG 7 aircraft. Otherwise, the fuel related gauges were yellow in almost all late war production Me 262, but the temperature and rpm indicators had simple red lines on the respective limits.
 
Instruments:
Late war production models had a number of instruments missing. This was the result of an "Entfeinerung" effort towards the end of 1944, where as many parts as possible were removed in order to use less resources and a lower variety of different components. The jet engine differential pressure gauges, indicator for pitot tube heating in the blind flying panel and others were no longer installed. Careful study of the wartime photo of the Me 262 B panel (e.g. published in Smith/Creek's 4 volume book series; see below) helps determine which ones exactly. In the B-panel below there was just one fuel pressure gauge (yellow ring) and one oil pressure gauge (red-brown ring). The instrument to the right is a small voltage indicator that was inserted from behind. Then there is the auxiliary t&b indicator on the left of the temperature indicators. The temperature indicators have an unusually bright ring. I suspect it was white.
 
In addition, except for some early production Me 262s, the electrical indicators for the 4 MK 108 underneath the SZKK2 were never installed. The Me 262 B had a large repeater compass and not the small one of the A-1a. There, Eduard used the correct compass, but an incorrect shape of the blind flying panel. Eduard's panel is the one that was used in the Me 262 A-1 equipped as a bad weather fighter (FuG 125, autopilot) as documented by a wartime drawing and also a panel that was brought to the US. The nightfighter blind flying panel was made out of metal sheet (and not wood like in the bad weather fighter) and had a different shape. The lower edge consisted of straight lines and not a curved one. The nightfighter also had an additional 80mm instrument in a simple auxiliary panel attached to the lower edge of the main panel. I believe it was a double manifold pressure gauge to indicate the pressure difference of the two jet exhausts. The same instrument was used in the Ar 234 for example so that the pilot could easily determine if both engines had the same thrust. In the panel below there was a rectangular, late production rate of climb indicator, but the round one was more common.
 
But as I said at the beginning, most will not bother as the differences are small and a lot of effort would be involved to correct every detail. 
 
I am looking forward to your build.
 
Cheers,
 
Roger
 

 
 
 
 

A short pause after I've applied the fuel stencil decals.  I think I can start on the mottle work soon.











 

G'day Gentlemen, 
 
time for an update! Scooby is approaching the finish line - slowly but steadily. 
 
The tailfin was the last major exterior component to be finished. The high gloss orange surfaces were well maintained and looked pretty pristine even during the very last days of Scooby's active career. The part was painted International Orange from Hataka applied over a white base which was then sealed with Mr Hobby GX-113. To eliminate orange peel, the part was sanded and polished to high gloss using Micro Mesh pads.
 

 
The tail number was painted on using home made masks, the formation lights are preprinted parts from Eduard which just had to be weathered with oil paints. The stiffening plates were kindly CNC machined by my good friend Thomas. Note the touch ups applied around the groove lines to add some minor wear and tear. 
 

 
Finished tail fin ready to be installed.
 

 
Next on my list was wiring the cockpit and installing the fixed windscreen and center canopy parts. 
 
Silver rivet decals from Mike Grant were added to the windscreen frame underside along with a bit of lead wire and a chunk of plastic sheet; one of the wires was then connected to the compass on the Eduard windscreen frame. The pink background was a bad idea, sorry for that...
 

 
The center canopy part was wired and detailed as well.
 

 
The cockpit looks rather busy with those few additional wires. 
 

 
Next was the seat which was painted with a mix of acrylics and oil paints; the ejection handles were made of braided line from Anyz and 0,5mm decal stripes from the same manufacturer which were wrapped around the braided lines. Don't try to wrap it around the braided lines already fitted to the seat - here is a little photo explaining how to do it. It's certainly possible to wrap the decal with more even spacing, but it's totally fine like that. Hint: soak the braided line with Mr Mark Softer or similar first. 
 
 
 
The bracket for the ejection handles was built using 1,4mm brass tubing from Albion Alloys.
 

 
And in situ. The label on top of the seat is one I made for my RF-8G back in the day; the "LIFT HERE" and "NO STEP" decals on the seat surface are from Jira-Gio.
 

 
And the finished product. 
 

 
The seat looks the part indide the cockpit - I am pretty happy so far. 
 

 
What's left? A partially assembled rear seat, some antennas and the canopies. Stay tuned! 
 

The seam popping is not a big bother.  I was mentally prepared for such an outcome.  In fact, I purposefully treated the panel lines with this in mind and did not fill them completely and rescribe over a flush surface.  Instead, I kept the existing joint lines open which simplified my re-scribing.  Open closer inspection, it doesn't appear too bad and I should have the seams cleaned up in the a day or two, methinks.
 
While putty dries, I replaced the tail light.  First, I found a suitable piece of clear plastic.  This was one of those greeting card holders you get with a bouquet of flowers.

 
 
The existing tail light is cut out with a razor saw.

 
 
The replacement piece of plastic is glued into place with UV-activated clear epoxy.  A partially drilled hole serves as the bulb.

 
 
New tail light after sanding and polishing.