VintageEagle

Thank you for the comments guys!
 
After the base coat of RLM02 on the landing gear, some details were brush painted and then a dark brown pastel wash was applied.



 

Back with another update on the D-9!  I finally worked up enough motivation to finish the engine plug.  After adding some wiring to the engine body itself, I drilled out some holes in both the forward and rear engine bulkheads for additional wiring runs and then painted the engine parts while the parts were still separated.

 
 
I then started gluing the engine components together and adding wiring along the way to further complicate/populate this area. The wiring work is not accurate but is intended to simply give the impression of complexity.



 
 
The ammo cannisters and chutes were chipped using hairspray to represent a bit of wear and tear in this area.

 
 
The last component of the engine plug to be attached is the rear bulkhead. I've added some yellow electrical wiring bundles.



 
 
The wheel well insert was also painted and chipped with hairspray.

 
 
Now that the engine plug has been completed, I can dry-fit it into the fuselage to see what it looks like with the wheel well insert in place.





 
 
Lots of this work gets hidden once the central wing part is in place but there is enough visible to make the previous work worthwhile.





 

These are a few test shots of the nearly finished model.





I’m pretty pleased with the result so far, despite a few setbacks and errors. I think it’s safe to say that we all go through ups and downs with an artistic endeavor. Perhaps that is the appeal, beyond the fun of it: to nevertheless succeed at completing a project and doing so in a satisfying way.
 
The Tamiya 1/32 P-51 kit is superbly engineered, meaning that building it was absolute fun. Two things I would criticize and folks have pointed these out before. The canopy has a seam requiring removal and this needs to be done carefully - I inadvertently caused one to crack while removing the seam. Further, painting the frame ended up being a bear, so I would have designed the canopy as a separate part from the frame. The second thing is minor, but I would not include vinyl tires for the landing gear. That’s just goofy.
 
Painting was my least favorite thing about model building until this kit. Thanks in part to folks here on LSP, I learned many things about how to apply paint with an airbrush, how to properly apply gloss and flat coats, how to add decals, and so forth. Before this kit, I “winged it,” so to speak. Also, space subjects, especially those that are fictional, mean one can get away with a simpler approach to painting the exterior. Not so with airplanes, it seems. This aircraft is covered with bare metal and painted aluminum, and I picked this particular aircraft for its colors, meaning it was going to be a fun painting challenge.
 
There are a few things I’d do differently, and that’s the other part of the fun - learning new things and applying the lessons learned to the next project. I will be more careful with painting in the future, for one thing. Though I used Alclad II metallic paints, I did use Bare Metal Foil here and there, and not in a particularly clever way, so I won’t do that again. Chipped paint is a cool effect, one I think I executed well, but next time I intend to layout the colored paint over the metallic paint and, using another product between, actually wear through the upper paint layer to produce the desired effect.
 
Weathering is my favorite thing to do, and maybe I go a bit overboard. But for a WWII aircraft, one can easily get away with that. I used washes for the first time and loved this effect, especially when supplemented with powders and chalks.
 
Next will be to add the aerial antenna running through the canopy to the tail. After a few more touchups, I will build the diorama featuring four guys, a toolbox, a jeep, a sandy surface with shrubs, and Marston mat panels. I look forward to building the jeep, as I’ve never built a ground vehicle before. The four guys will be another new thing for me; the first figure is done and I think the result is satisfactory.
 
So, while the plane is almost done, there is much remaining before the project is actually complete!

Hi All
 
This is the 1/32 Trumpeter MiG-29C built as a Ukrainian Air Force MiG-29S (9-13). It is loaded for a CAS mission inspired by a photograph I found online.
 
It is impossible not to feel the impact of a war in Europe, in what feels like my own backyard - and like so many on these forums I also felt the urge to show my support.
I tried to incorporate as much aftermarket stuff produced in Ukraine as I could. The Rocket Pods and Wheels are from ResKit. The paint masks are both from Foxbot and DN Models. The seat is from Quickboost and the pitot tube to replace the telegraph pole included in the kit is from Master. The exhausts are from Zacto model.
The decals are a story of their own - I screwed up the first paintjob using the Foxbot masks I already had so I had to start over  While waiting for the brand new released masking set to arrive from DN Models, Foxbot also announced a brand new set of decals for a digital camo MiG-29. I wrote Oleg from Foxbot if I could somehow get a set and he happily sent me one straight from Kyiv in the middle of an active warzone. That kinda makes this model special for me..
 
I painted the model entirely using paints from MRP - the second time also in the right order . Below in order from Dark to Light:
 
MRP-034 Tank Grey (MRP-405 seems to be too light for the MiG-29)
MRP-403 Grey
MRP-402 Light Grey
MRP-246 Light Arctic Grey
 
The underside is painted with MRP 405 Blue Grey
 
Hope you like it
Niels
 
Click the images and they will open in a larger version
 

 
 

Hi All
got a reply from Jean-Claude and I thank him for his unvaluable kindness
so here are the drawings:

 

 
 

 

 

 

 
Hope this helps ;-)
 
 

Another step forward with upper  owl now in place and MG131's fitted along with the feed chutes.
 

 
Also have bomb racks and undercarriage fitted ready for wheels to go on
 

 
Hopefully have the wheels fitted later and then on to final fitting of various open panels.
 
Regards. Andy 

I'm back! ))))) 
Primed the airframe, some minor details. Almost no notes. 

Just recently joined the forums and have been perusing some of the work here.  Like probably a lot of you, I was a big fan of the Revell line of 1/32 WWII fighters when I was a kid.  Fast-forward 40-something years, and not much has changed.  Still a fan, but nowadays there's so many options when it comes to paint and accessories.  And information at your fingertips!  I was having a hard time deciding what to build first.  I wanted something relatively easy, paint-wise.  But not a bare-metal finish, that's beyond my skill level at this point.  I stumbled across an F4F-4 on ebay for a decent price and grabbed it.  Will be building straight out of the box, no accessories, but maybe some aftermarket decals.  Just got the kit today, and need to wrap up the 1/48 Zero I have in work before starting the Wildcat, so more to follow.....  Will gladly accept any comments and suggestions from the members as it progresses!
 
https://i.postimg.cc/brXKCBn7/20220707-140630.jpg
 

 
 

Well, since you ask so nicely, here's my pics of the parts.  However, I'm not prepared to take them out of the wrappers until I start construction, so I hope these will do.
 
Clear bits and drop tank.  Interestingly, Z-M have molded the drop tank fuel pipe in clear.  You can see it on sprue P.
 

 
Engine bits.  Unlike the Dornier Do-335, one half of the cylinder head has been molded with the crank case block half.  The other half of each head has the usual piston and conrod molded in, as seems usual.
 

 
Sprue F, which contains the parts for the larger fin and rudder, plus other optional parts.
 

 
Wing parts.  Note that the leading edge slats can move in and out.
 

 

 
Fuselage bits.
 

 
Cockpit parts.
 

 

 

 
Undercarriage, propeller and more engine cowling bits.  This sprue seems to include parts for a tropicalised version.
 

 
As has been stated elsewhere, there's quite a few possible variants of the Gustav that could be built from this kit.  I'm not the greatest expert here on 109's, but I think if the plane you want to build is a G with fuselage gun blisters, you will probably be able to build it from this kit.
 
Hope this satisfies everyone's curiosity.
 
 
Cheers,
Michael

This model is the culmination of many hours of work by a team of dedicated people, researchers, designers and toolmakers, all of whom are great people and a pleasure and privilege to work with. For that reason, I would like to make sure that everyone gets their due recognition, so if you feel like giving praise to anyone please congratulate the team that made this model possible. 
Radu

Since the other topic on this kit got closed, I thought I'd start a new one, and I hope this time the discussion is not as contentious please.
 
Good news.  I got mine today .
 

 
Packed outside the box were these two extras, a pin on badge for the Skyraider, and the resin figure to represent Erich Hartman.
 

 
As usual, I unpacked it and checked the parts sprues catalogued on the last page and this is where I ran into an uh-ho moment.  The instruction set says the box contains two of sprues (or runners) E and F.  I've only got one of each
 

 
But the good news is that this is a mis-print and not an error in packing the box.  I can't quite see why I might need duplicates of runners E and F considering this model has but one engine and tail.  I've been through all five of the Old Man Blogs showing the build of this kit and these only show one of each of these runners needed.  Then I got onto the Z-M website and see that they've published a correction to the instruction set, so panic over.
 
On a happier note, I've had a look at all the parts and a first pass through the instruction sheet.  I've seen the pictures of the kit on the Old Man Blogs, but that doesn't compare to getting the kit in my own hands.    It really is that good and I have to take my hat off to Radub and all the team at Zoukei Mura for their work on this model.  To say outstanding seems inadequate and I believe this is far and away the best 109 ever done in this scale, perhaps any scale.  Really great work,   I think we don't need to worry any more about Tamiya not producing any more of their top notch kits, because Zoukei Mura have filled that spot, and then some.
 
I didn't order any of the extras at this moment, as the etch interior is not yet available.  When it is, I'll be adding the etch cockpit set and turned gun and pitot sets, as these will improve my build of this kit.  My skills are not up to the sort of standard that I can do as well as these additional parts using the kit parts.
 
As per Vincents review of the kit, it also looks possible to build other variants, so I will be purchasing more of these.  Thankfully there's lots of suitable decals on the market to cater for this.  If more variants are released, then the permutations of the different Gustav builds will be as complex as the real thing, especially with the left over parts in this kit.  I'm also looking forward to see what others do with this kit, so let the WIP topics begin!!
 
 
Cheers,
Michael

some more painting on the landing gears using 1ManArmy masks

 
   
. 

Hi Andy,
 
It's really great that you continue with this build. I also have my Revell Fw 190 to complete that I had started around the same time as you did yours. Unfortunately, when I tried to re-rivet the fuselage before painting, the cockpit tube became lose which evaporated most of my motivation. It can still be pushed up by a hole on the lower fuselage (that will be covered by the center strut for the fuel tank), but I needed to work on something else before I find my motivation to finish it. It is almost ready to be painted. 
 
Thank you for your kind words about my book. I am glad that the pictures were inspring. I may have mentioned it before, but by pure luck I was able to find an original Kodachrome slide of White 48 after I published my book. It will be featured in Volume 2 together with the name and story of the pilot (which again, I found out only by pure luck when the grandson of a pilot who flew together with the pilot of White 48 on their last flight home contacted me regarding a different topic). 
 
Looking forward to see how your completed White 48! Keep up the great work.
 
Regards,
 
Roger 

You should be able to do a standard Bf 109 G-6 with what is in this box. All types of engine cowl, canopy or tail relevant to the G-6 are included. If you want to do a G-6/R-6 or G-6/R-1 (or a G-2 or a G-4) you will need to wait for other kits to be released.
Radu
 

I got one of these too, last night, and this morning an email from DHL advising a waybill number.  Last time I ordered something from Z-M in Japan, it took four days to get here, so all digits are crossed it arrives before the end of next week.  I want to get the interior set and gun barrels before I start it, so it goes into the stash for a while.  After I've ogled all the lovely bits inside and read, re-read, and read again the instructions.
 
Cheers,
Michael

Thank Kevin!  One of the drawbacks to working on simultaneous projects, especially when they are in similar stages.  I really should've done the nose surgery at the very beginning of the build but like you said, I luckily avoided the snookery.
 
 
Thanks! Happy it worked out this time.
 
 
Thanks Mark!
 
 
Thanks Dennis!  Hope to see your build soon!
 
 
Thank you Lutz!  No loss since the front deck serves no purpose on this build and would not be visible.
 
 
Thanks Matt!  Looks like the nose should fit without any major issues, which is a good thing.
 
 
Yup!  Happy and relieved to be able to move on!
 
 
Thanks Mike!
 
 
Thank you!
 
Last time, I was able to confirm that the resin nose would fit onto the surgically altered fuselage pretty well.  I spent some more time cleaning up the resin nose including tidying up this circular hatch and mismatched panel line on the bottom.

 
 
After the adjustments were made, I sprayed the entire nose with Mr Primer Surfacer 1000.







 
 
After some deliberation, I've decided to apply rivets onto this model. Using drawings from an older, Japanese-language publication, I sketched the rivet lines onto the resin nose with a soft (4B) leaded pencil.

 
 
After the lines are sketched, a rotary rivet tool (Galaxy Tools) is used to puncture rows of small holes into the resin nose to simulate rivets.

 
 
Unlike plastic, the riveting process on the primered resin does not create as big a mound of material around each hole but I still recommend sanding afterwards.

 
 
After sanding, I applied a temporary pastel wash to highlight the riveting and other corrective work on the nose. Some of the nose bits like the spinner, the exhausts, the supercharger intake and gun barrels were added temporarily for these photos.









 
 
I'm happy with the decision to rivet the Ki-61.  I think the nose looks pretty bada$$ now.

 
 

Just got a shipping confirmation from VOLKS Japan! 

Thank you Kev!
 
Thank you Zac! It's a beautiful aircraft with an interesting history. The Revell kit is so far really great and the cockpit details are so good that you don't need any aftermarket parts (except maybe decals).
 
OK, I finished the right console. It doesn't look like much, but it was time consuming to apply all these tiny decals and details, but I like the outcome. All quite straight forward. Only three details I added / modified:
 
1) BEFA 4B: I added a metallic stripe made out of thin plastic sheet to the BEFA 4B switch box for the two flare rocket launchers AZA 10 in the rear fuselage. Here's a photo of the original:
 

 
The metalic cover had to be swiveled by by 90 degrees if the pilot wanted to press the buttons to fire the flares:

 
2) Circuit Breaker Panel: In the later Me 262s the top row of the circuit breaker panel was unused, which was the result of the 'Entfeinerung' (simplification) that I mentioned earlier. Only the center and lower rows were used and had paper labels. Since my aircraft is not an early production example, I removed the switches from the top row. The voltage indicator that would have normally been installed in the center of the top row was also missing on most mid- to late production Me 262s. Therefore, I did not apply a decal for it, but painted the circular area black. 
 
By the way, there were two different types of breaker panels. One had a saw-tooth edge on the front (made out of metal) and the other one was straight (made out mostly of wood). Here are the two versions:
 
Saw-tooth edge in the NASM Me 262 (W.Nr. 500491):
 

 
Straight edge in the German Museum Me 262 (W.Nr. 500071):
 

 
3) Compass Deviation Table: I was not sure about the compass deviation table that you can see in some photos in the original manuals. It was attached to the pilot facing side of the circuit breaker panel. I struggled to find a photo of a later production Me 262 (museum, immediate postwar or wartime photos) that would show the deviation table. In the NASM Me 262 there is a wooden panel that probably once had the table glued onto it (see photo above), but in pre-restoration photos there was no table attached. In the German Museum example (Me 262 that landed in Switzerland in April 1945 and was handed over to the Germans in the 1950s) there is not even a panel visible (see photo above). I had almost decided not to add the deviation table, but then I found an immediate post-war cockpit photo of Me 262 White 5 W.Nr. 111690, which shows that that aircraft had the deviation table attached to the circuit breaker panel side. W.Nr. 111690 was not an early production model and was produced after 'White 17' W.Nr. 110958, which I am building. Long story short: I added the compass deviation table to the side of the circuit breaker panel.
 
For some of the labels I used the excellent 1/32 Luftwaffe Placard set of Airscale ( @airscale thank you Peter!) and for the circuit breaker labels and deviation table the Eduard cockpit set. Here are some photos of the completed consoles (only the throttles and the fuel tank switches need to be added to the left console):
 

 

 

 
 
Note the red stripe across the FuG25: this most likely indicated that it was a "rote Erstling" set. The code-name for the FuG 25 was "Erstling" and there were rote (red) and grüne (green) Erstling sets with slightly different frequencies.
 
That's all for now. I am waiting for the arrival of the die and punch set to complete the throttles and also to create masks for the colored instrument rings. In my aircraft, most likely only the fuel instruments (fuel indicator and fuel pressure) had yellow rings and the oil pressure gauged red-brown rings. The colorful rings you see in the Eduard set were introduced and only used by JG 7. I have a wartime report of a Messerschmitt visit to JG 7 that explains this and even has a drawing of the panel with the different colors used. All known photos that show these colorful panels were of JG 7 aircraft. It looks nice of course but is not always accurate depending on what Me 262 you want to build. 

Thank you Kev!
 
Thank you Zac! It's a beautiful aircraft with an interesting history. The Revell kit is so far really great and the cockpit details are so good that you don't need any aftermarket parts (except maybe decals).
 
OK, I finished the right console. It doesn't look like much, but it was time consuming to apply all these tiny decals and details, but I like the outcome. All quite straight forward. Only three details I added / modified:
 
1) BEFA 4B: I added a metallic stripe made out of thin plastic sheet to the BEFA 4B switch box for the two flare rocket launchers AZA 10 in the rear fuselage. Here's a photo of the original:
 

 
The metalic cover had to be swiveled by by 90 degrees if the pilot wanted to press the buttons to fire the flares:

 
2) Circuit Breaker Panel: In the later Me 262s the top row of the circuit breaker panel was unused, which was the result of the 'Entfeinerung' (simplification) that I mentioned earlier. Only the center and lower rows were used and had paper labels. Since my aircraft is not an early production example, I removed the switches from the top row. The voltage indicator that would have normally been installed in the center of the top row was also missing on most mid- to late production Me 262s. Therefore, I did not apply a decal for it, but painted the circular area black. 
 
By the way, there were two different types of breaker panels. One had a saw-tooth edge on the front (made out of metal) and the other one was straight (made out mostly of wood). Here are the two versions:
 
Saw-tooth edge in the NASM Me 262 (W.Nr. 500491):
 

 
Straight edge in the German Museum Me 262 (W.Nr. 500071):
 

 
3) Compass Deviation Table: I was not sure about the compass deviation table that you can see in some photos in the original manuals. It was attached to the pilot facing side of the circuit breaker panel. I struggled to find a photo of a later production Me 262 (museum, immediate postwar or wartime photos) that would show the deviation table. In the NASM Me 262 there is a wooden panel that probably once had the table glued onto it (see photo above), but in pre-restoration photos there was no table attached. In the German Museum example (Me 262 that landed in Switzerland in April 1945 and was handed over to the Germans in the 1950s) there is not even a panel visible (see photo above). I had almost decided not to add the deviation table, but then I found an immediate post-war cockpit photo of Me 262 White 5 W.Nr. 111690, which shows that that aircraft had the deviation table attached to the circuit breaker panel side. W.Nr. 111690 was not an early production model and was produced after 'White 17' W.Nr. 110958, which I am building. Long story short: I added the compass deviation table to the side of the circuit breaker panel.
 
For some of the labels I used the excellent 1/32 Luftwaffe Placard set of Airscale ( @airscale thank you Peter!) and for the circuit breaker labels and deviation table the Eduard cockpit set. Here are some photos of the completed consoles (only the throttles and the fuel tank switches need to be added to the left console):
 

 

 

 
 
Note the red stripe across the FuG25: this most likely indicated that it was a "rote Erstling" set. The code-name for the FuG 25 was "Erstling" and there were rote (red) and grüne (green) Erstling sets with slightly different frequencies.
 
That's all for now. I am waiting for the arrival of the die and punch set to complete the throttles and also to create masks for the colored instrument rings. In my aircraft, most likely only the fuel instruments (fuel indicator and fuel pressure) had yellow rings and the oil pressure gauged red-brown rings. The colorful rings you see in the Eduard set were introduced and only used by JG 7. I have a wartime report of a Messerschmitt visit to JG 7 that explains this and even has a drawing of the panel with the different colors used. All known photos that show these colorful panels were of JG 7 aircraft. It looks nice of course but is not always accurate depending on what Me 262 you want to build. 

Marc, Nighthawk
thank you guys for your comments! i appreciate it!
 
 
now some more masking and painting..
Black RV band painted,
also the code numbers , first the black 2 from montex masks, and then the yellow 1 on top..
 
next will be the vertical yellow bar and then i will move to the front cowling..
 
i have also re -painted both wingc camouflage as i wasn't thrilled with the previous result
i am still learning ..

 

 
 

 
 

 

 
 
thanks!
S

Thank you Kev!
 
Thank you Zac! It's a beautiful aircraft with an interesting history. The Revell kit is so far really great and the cockpit details are so good that you don't need any aftermarket parts (except maybe decals).
 
OK, I finished the right console. It doesn't look like much, but it was time consuming to apply all these tiny decals and details, but I like the outcome. All quite straight forward. Only three details I added / modified:
 
1) BEFA 4B: I added a metallic stripe made out of thin plastic sheet to the BEFA 4B switch box for the two flare rocket launchers AZA 10 in the rear fuselage. Here's a photo of the original:
 

 
The metalic cover had to be swiveled by by 90 degrees if the pilot wanted to press the buttons to fire the flares:

 
2) Circuit Breaker Panel: In the later Me 262s the top row of the circuit breaker panel was unused, which was the result of the 'Entfeinerung' (simplification) that I mentioned earlier. Only the center and lower rows were used and had paper labels. Since my aircraft is not an early production example, I removed the switches from the top row. The voltage indicator that would have normally been installed in the center of the top row was also missing on most mid- to late production Me 262s. Therefore, I did not apply a decal for it, but painted the circular area black. 
 
By the way, there were two different types of breaker panels. One had a saw-tooth edge on the front (made out of metal) and the other one was straight (made out mostly of wood). Here are the two versions:
 
Saw-tooth edge in the NASM Me 262 (W.Nr. 500491):
 

 
Straight edge in the German Museum Me 262 (W.Nr. 500071):
 

 
3) Compass Deviation Table: I was not sure about the compass deviation table that you can see in some photos in the original manuals. It was attached to the pilot facing side of the circuit breaker panel. I struggled to find a photo of a later production Me 262 (museum, immediate postwar or wartime photos) that would show the deviation table. In the NASM Me 262 there is a wooden panel that probably once had the table glued onto it (see photo above), but in pre-restoration photos there was no table attached. In the German Museum example (Me 262 that landed in Switzerland in April 1945 and was handed over to the Germans in the 1950s) there is not even a panel visible (see photo above). I had almost decided not to add the deviation table, but then I found an immediate post-war cockpit photo of Me 262 White 5 W.Nr. 111690, which shows that that aircraft had the deviation table attached to the circuit breaker panel side. W.Nr. 111690 was not an early production model and was produced after 'White 17' W.Nr. 110958, which I am building. Long story short: I added the compass deviation table to the side of the circuit breaker panel.
 
For some of the labels I used the excellent 1/32 Luftwaffe Placard set of Airscale ( @airscale thank you Peter!) and for the circuit breaker labels and deviation table the Eduard cockpit set. Here are some photos of the completed consoles (only the throttles and the fuel tank switches need to be added to the left console):
 

 

 

 
 
Note the red stripe across the FuG25: this most likely indicated that it was a "rote Erstling" set. The code-name for the FuG 25 was "Erstling" and there were rote (red) and grüne (green) Erstling sets with slightly different frequencies.
 
That's all for now. I am waiting for the arrival of the die and punch set to complete the throttles and also to create masks for the colored instrument rings. In my aircraft, most likely only the fuel instruments (fuel indicator and fuel pressure) had yellow rings and the oil pressure gauged red-brown rings. The colorful rings you see in the Eduard set were introduced and only used by JG 7. I have a wartime report of a Messerschmitt visit to JG 7 that explains this and even has a drawing of the panel with the different colors used. All known photos that show these colorful panels were of JG 7 aircraft. It looks nice of course but is not always accurate depending on what Me 262 you want to build. 

Thank you Damian! Indeed, there is no cure  
 
 
Thank you Zac!
 
 
Thank you John! Thanks for the advice to contact Revell. I am afraid that it would take too long to get the replacement and I will use other decals for the main markings later. Therefore, I moved ahead with using small stripes of white and black decals and a small brush to apply the "text". But I will contact them as I have a second Me 262 in my stash that I want to build as a jet with R4M rockets.
 
OK, another smaller update: the decals on the left console are complete now. I have also added the pull wire for the RATO rockets for which I had previously added a small vertical bar that in the original kept the wire in its intended position and ensured that there was enough tension. You will notice that the forward section of the wire is slightly thicker. That is intended as in the original the forward section that the pilot would have gripped was also thicker than the rest of the wire. First the original (cockpit of the captured W.NR. 111711 with some American equipment installed for flight testing):
 

 
And now 32 times smaller:
 

 

 
 
The last detail to add besides the throttle levers  and fuel tank selector levers is a decal for the rudder trim control. I have already started with the throttle levers and tank selector levers, but need a smaller punch and die set to fabricate two throttle switches of the right thickness. I have ordered one and it is currently on its way to me. I will also need it to create a paint mask for some of the instruments in the main panel that had colored rings on the front. The decals I have did not fit (slightly too large) and hand-painting these rings is hardly possible in a proper way. Therefore, next will be the right console.
 
 
 
 

Thank you Kev. Yes, his book is a great inspriation and help to avoid any pitfalls with this kit. 
 
Thank you Rockie Yarwood!
 
Thank you MARU5137! 
 
Thank you John1. I will try to continue to provide some details of the 1:1 Me 262. 
 
Thank you John! I use your book as an inspiration. I am sure my model will not even look half as good in the end, but much bettern than had I not had your book as a guide. 
 
OK, only a short update as my time was limited in the past few days. Several labels, which in the real thing were actually decals too, were attached to the left console next to the instruments and levers. They were black with white text and a white outline around the edge of the labels. The Revell decal sheet provides some of these, but on my example the white and black colors were completely misaligned so that I could not use any of these. @Thunnus, based on the cockpit photos in your book, your Revell decal sheet appears to have been aligned, so maybe just bad luck for me.
 
Anyways, I started to cut tiny stripes for the labels from a white decal sheet. The idea is to place a slightly smaller black stripe on top of the white stripe to get the white outline. You can imagine how a fiddly work this is, but I managed to add all white labels and for one also the black (the one on the vertical wall of the console). Next is to add also the black labels on top of the remaining white labels and then with a very pointy brush to imitate the instructions on them. A lot of work that ultimately will hardly be visible, but I just can't help not to add this detail. I tend to lose myself in details at the cost of modelling speed and sometimes it would be better to be faster with less details.
 

 

Thank you Kev!
 
Thank you Zac! It's a beautiful aircraft with an interesting history. The Revell kit is so far really great and the cockpit details are so good that you don't need any aftermarket parts (except maybe decals).
 
OK, I finished the right console. It doesn't look like much, but it was time consuming to apply all these tiny decals and details, but I like the outcome. All quite straight forward. Only three details I added / modified:
 
1) BEFA 4B: I added a metallic stripe made out of thin plastic sheet to the BEFA 4B switch box for the two flare rocket launchers AZA 10 in the rear fuselage. Here's a photo of the original:
 

 
The metalic cover had to be swiveled by by 90 degrees if the pilot wanted to press the buttons to fire the flares:

 
2) Circuit Breaker Panel: In the later Me 262s the top row of the circuit breaker panel was unused, which was the result of the 'Entfeinerung' (simplification) that I mentioned earlier. Only the center and lower rows were used and had paper labels. Since my aircraft is not an early production example, I removed the switches from the top row. The voltage indicator that would have normally been installed in the center of the top row was also missing on most mid- to late production Me 262s. Therefore, I did not apply a decal for it, but painted the circular area black. 
 
By the way, there were two different types of breaker panels. One had a saw-tooth edge on the front (made out of metal) and the other one was straight (made out mostly of wood). Here are the two versions:
 
Saw-tooth edge in the NASM Me 262 (W.Nr. 500491):
 

 
Straight edge in the German Museum Me 262 (W.Nr. 500071):
 

 
3) Compass Deviation Table: I was not sure about the compass deviation table that you can see in some photos in the original manuals. It was attached to the pilot facing side of the circuit breaker panel. I struggled to find a photo of a later production Me 262 (museum, immediate postwar or wartime photos) that would show the deviation table. In the NASM Me 262 there is a wooden panel that probably once had the table glued onto it (see photo above), but in pre-restoration photos there was no table attached. In the German Museum example (Me 262 that landed in Switzerland in April 1945 and was handed over to the Germans in the 1950s) there is not even a panel visible (see photo above). I had almost decided not to add the deviation table, but then I found an immediate post-war cockpit photo of Me 262 White 5 W.Nr. 111690, which shows that that aircraft had the deviation table attached to the circuit breaker panel side. W.Nr. 111690 was not an early production model and was produced after 'White 17' W.Nr. 110958, which I am building. Long story short: I added the compass deviation table to the side of the circuit breaker panel.
 
For some of the labels I used the excellent 1/32 Luftwaffe Placard set of Airscale ( @airscale thank you Peter!) and for the circuit breaker labels and deviation table the Eduard cockpit set. Here are some photos of the completed consoles (only the throttles and the fuel tank switches need to be added to the left console):
 

 

 

 
 
Note the red stripe across the FuG25: this most likely indicated that it was a "rote Erstling" set. The code-name for the FuG 25 was "Erstling" and there were rote (red) and grüne (green) Erstling sets with slightly different frequencies.
 
That's all for now. I am waiting for the arrival of the die and punch set to complete the throttles and also to create masks for the colored instrument rings. In my aircraft, most likely only the fuel instruments (fuel indicator and fuel pressure) had yellow rings and the oil pressure gauged red-brown rings. The colorful rings you see in the Eduard set were introduced and only used by JG 7. I have a wartime report of a Messerschmitt visit to JG 7 that explains this and even has a drawing of the panel with the different colors used. All known photos that show these colorful panels were of JG 7 aircraft. It looks nice of course but is not always accurate depending on what Me 262 you want to build. 

Thank you Damian! Indeed, there is no cure  
 
 
Thank you Zac!
 
 
Thank you John! Thanks for the advice to contact Revell. I am afraid that it would take too long to get the replacement and I will use other decals for the main markings later. Therefore, I moved ahead with using small stripes of white and black decals and a small brush to apply the "text". But I will contact them as I have a second Me 262 in my stash that I want to build as a jet with R4M rockets.
 
OK, another smaller update: the decals on the left console are complete now. I have also added the pull wire for the RATO rockets for which I had previously added a small vertical bar that in the original kept the wire in its intended position and ensured that there was enough tension. You will notice that the forward section of the wire is slightly thicker. That is intended as in the original the forward section that the pilot would have gripped was also thicker than the rest of the wire. First the original (cockpit of the captured W.NR. 111711 with some American equipment installed for flight testing):
 

 
And now 32 times smaller:
 

 

 
 
The last detail to add besides the throttle levers  and fuel tank selector levers is a decal for the rudder trim control. I have already started with the throttle levers and tank selector levers, but need a smaller punch and die set to fabricate two throttle switches of the right thickness. I have ordered one and it is currently on its way to me. I will also need it to create a paint mask for some of the instruments in the main panel that had colored rings on the front. The decals I have did not fit (slightly too large) and hand-painting these rings is hardly possible in a proper way. Therefore, next will be the right console.