Rainer Hoffmann

That model and your skills are not from this world, Peter. A true masterpiece.
 
Cheers
Rainer

Hi,
 
I just added the center floor panel between frames 2 and 3. Looks like a kitchen sink ...  
 

 
Now I have to assemble the Canneloni for dinner ... yummy

This isn't a model. It's a manufactured masterpiece of the highest quality and finish. I really doubt I'll ever see a better "model" in the future. Hats off to you Peter and thanks for sharing every tiny bit of this incredible journey.
 
Cheers,
Chuck

evening folks
 
things have slowed down a bit as we get into the final furlong - I keep telling myself to not rush and take as much care with the remaining assembly as I have up to now. It's easy to fall into the trap of bolting all the final bits on and calling it done...
 
actually it is getting quite hard to handle, it's quite big and without all the protective stuff on it I need to be very careful not to ding it on things as a dent in the metal means a new panel.. it also means a lot of planning so I can minimise handling, so for example I want all the underside done so I can add the canopy & windshield last and most likely the rudder and elevators at the very end as I still need to build these..
 
there is also not much to show in terms of building, for example the radiators were added - it took me two goes until I was happy with how they faired into the wing and the big curved mounting bracket each side of them..
 

 

 
..all the gubbins can clearly be seen inside them and is a little detail I like
 

 
..and from the front - the panel right in front of the rad is just dry fitted for the photo, all the panels here need to go on after the gear is added..
 

 
the chin intake was also added - I was reassured by reference pics that this is quite a rough structure in a lot of cases, with big gaps and dents so I built it just like that
 

 
..and the underside is coming together..
 

 

 
have been working on adding the ailerons and here it is sat on the tinted mirror base I thought might suit it better...
 

 
lots of bits to go, but it really is getting near the end now
 
TTFN
Peter

Alternatively you could simply work harder 
 
Cheers
Rainer

Well, I'm turning 60 next month. What about me?
 
Cheers
Rainer

Alternatively you could simply work harder 
 
Cheers
Rainer

Well, I'm turning 60 next month. What about me?
 
Cheers
Rainer

This is a fantastic and epic thread but it's up to 22 pages and we have only seen the sidewalls by the cockpit! I don't want to be Debby Downer but I'm 43 years old..will I live to see it finished?
(Same goes for a beautiful Viggen and the Seahawk and Tigercat on the other pages)

G'day Gents,
 
here is a small update on the Jaktviggen. Not much to show, but I had some success in forming the rudder actuator fairing from sheet aluminum. That worked really well.
 
I started with a makeshift female mould and a male former:
 

 
The male former looks quite awful, but that's because it's been used twice already when this pic was taken. The aluminium left some nasty black residue on the former.
 
I place a some sheet aluminium on the female mould and then stick that together with the male former in a vise. some brute force on my behalf then does the job:
 

 
And here is the result fresh from the press:
 

 
Fwd is to the right. There are some wrinkles at the bottom, but they are taken care of by some sanding, nothing to worry about.
 
Here is the fairing after some clean-up:
 

 
I'm quite happy with the result. Here it is on the vertical stabilizer:
 

 
The bottom doesn't conform to the airfoil of the stabilizer yet, but again, that's not a big deal. The fairing is still way too long. But it will be cut approximately at the dotted red line. The rear part then slides into the forward part, as is the case on the real deal. The fairing will then line up with the rudder trailing edge.
 
That's it for today.
 
Thanks for looking!
 
 
Cheers
Rainer

Simply beautiful work so intricate and acute a pleasure to watch unfold.
 
Guy

Nothing planned yet, Bernd. I'll be thinking about it.
 
Cheers
Rainer

No need to anneal the aluminium. It's very soft by nature. It's used for embossing, so it has to be soft. I get it at a local, non modelling related hobby shop.
 
Cheers
Rainer

Hey, not "only" styrene but also sheet metal work at its best!
 
Did you anneal the aluminum sheet?
 
Bye

Thanks! I am learning a lot from you, too. Especially styrene working! Hope to see more progress of your project. 🤗
 
Will you be at the ModelExpo in March 2018?
 
Bye.

Goodness gracious! I'm a bloody amateur compared to you, Bernd. How is this even possible? You and Peter are taking modelling to a new level.
 
Keep the updates coming. I'm learning so much here!
 
Cheers
Rainer

G'day Gents,
 
here is a small update on the Jaktviggen. Not much to show, but I had some success in forming the rudder actuator fairing from sheet aluminum. That worked really well.
 
I started with a makeshift female mould and a male former:
 

 
The male former looks quite awful, but that's because it's been used twice already when this pic was taken. The aluminium left some nasty black residue on the former.
 
I place a some sheet aluminium on the female mould and then stick that together with the male former in a vise. some brute force on my behalf then does the job:
 

 
And here is the result fresh from the press:
 

 
Fwd is to the right. There are some wrinkles at the bottom, but they are taken care of by some sanding, nothing to worry about.
 
Here is the fairing after some clean-up:
 

 
I'm quite happy with the result. Here it is on the vertical stabilizer:
 

 
The bottom doesn't conform to the airfoil of the stabilizer yet, but again, that's not a big deal. The fairing is still way too long. But it will be cut approximately at the dotted red line. The rear part then slides into the forward part, as is the case on the real deal. The fairing will then line up with the rudder trailing edge.
 
That's it for today.
 
Thanks for looking!
 
 
Cheers
Rainer

Hi,
 
before I can make the pilot´s shoulder armor and the seat assembly I have to make the floor plating. I am working on the rear floor between frames 8 and 3A. The circular holes are for the fuel tank connections. Pictures show some dryfitting.
 

 

 
Now it´s time to light the charcoal for a barbeque ... :-) Bye!

I think this guy has overdone the pre-shading an weathering a bit  :
 

 
Interesting discussion, though. I'm far from painting my Viggen, but the D(I) modded Viggens looked really abused at the end of their active duty. Representing that might be quite a challenge.
 
Cheers
Rainer

I know I've said this before, but you ARE a styrene wizard! This is unbelievably crisp and clean work. Absofreakinglutely perfect.
 
Cheers
Rainer

Thanks Rainer. I even used to know about the orange filters, back in the dirty old "chemical" days of photography.
 
Kev's supposition of the baseplate being black sounds possible (and would explain the very distinctive demarcation in the B&W photo, as well as the somewhat blurred, darker "rim" in the color pictures). For the sake of aesthetics, I would still prefer the thing to remain blue, though ;-)
 
Nuff' said about this darn backplate!
Ultimately, it's Pete's decision, whatever he does shall be the "truth" ...

Black & White film is more sensitive to blue than to other colors (despite the fact that it is called "panchromatic"), Therefor blue is represented as light grey. To correct this B&W photographers used yellow or orange filters on the lens, especially to darken blue sky in landscape photographs.
 
So indeed you can't guess colors from a B&W pic. Depending on the filter that's been used, the shades of grey can be wildly different.
 
Cheers
Rainer

Black & White film is more sensitive to blue than to other colors (despite the fact that it is called "panchromatic"), Therefor blue is represented as light grey. To correct this B&W photographers used yellow or orange filters on the lens, especially to darken blue sky in landscape photographs.
 
So indeed you can't guess colors from a B&W pic. Depending on the filter that's been used, the shades of grey can be wildly different.
 
Cheers
Rainer

But EVERY line is not the same shade. I love to do paint jobs like this!