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About BarryWilliams

  • Birthday 03/05/1955

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  • Location
    Dover, England
  • Interests
    Current Affairs, Military History

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  1. You are right. There is no problem about fit, as such, it is us modellers who are the problem. I have built three of these, the first was a real problem with the engine panels, I learned some lessons and the second was better, my third try was a perfect easy fit. I only wish I could remember how I got the last one right but it was a long time ago now.
  2. I tried that but then stopped as I realised the hacker might be wanting people to do that as a way of getting passwords. I am no techie but I am suspicious about motives and without that there would not be a motive other than some ego trip.
  3. I have sprayed detail at just under 10psi with a .2 needle but mostly I spray between 10 and 15 psi with a .35 needle.
  4. I only spray MRP and agree with everything Jennings has said. They spray like silk at a very low psi, they are very forgiving, never need thinning even for fine lines and the colour range is so wide I have never had to mix colours. They are the best that you can get.
  5. I have not seen anybody say this.. Their first subject WW2…. Resurrection of the WNW Lancaster perhaps. After all it was close to release and, as such, securing the moulds etc would be a great first step. They do need to release a ‘banker’ early on though to get money rolling in….
  6. Beautiful work. How long, I wonder, will it be before MRP actually release these IJA/IJN colours. I will get a full set as soon as they do.
  7. Your heading and post are confusing. Do you mean Mr Paint or Mr Color? Mr Color are in 10ml bottles and need thinning. Mr Paint are a totally different brand and were rebranded to MRP to avoid confusion with the Mr Color range, are in 30ml bottles and do not require thinning even for fine lines.
  8. I built the Tamiya 1/32 as a FAA clipped wing aircraft. It was easy enough to do and I found plenty of information on line to help.
  9. Sorry but ICM are nothing like those. Perhaps they were once but they are very much mainstream now with their current releases. Their fit is as good as you can get with great engineering. Try their Gladiator and I-16, for instance, nothing like the current short run Special Hobby kits such as the Whirlwind. I also have a few of their 1/48 kits such as the He111, Invader, Ju88 and Do17 in the stash and they are first class. Personally I would love to see a Lysander from ICM IN 1/32 not to mention the previously mentioned Hurricane and Macchi.
  10. Superb work, love the wall mounted display.
  11. That’s because it is not an RAF shade but a US equivalent. Do the US aircraft sort. It is a FS number not BS. The Gladiator was not painted in US shades. MRP-118 is for the Gladiator underside
  12. Actually the correct two slate greys are MRP 116 and 117 both identified correctly as RAF Light Slate Grey and Dark Slate Grey. Sky, the underside colour is MRP 118. All are clearly identified. You are taking too much notice perhaps of names in instructions, often wrong meeting the name conventions of particular paint brands. MRP website has a great sort to identify correct shades. https://mrpaint.sk/farby/lietadla/RAF
  13. The FAA sea scheme requires Dark Slate Grey/Extra Dark Sea Grey on the upper surfaces. On biplanes they often used the ‘shadow’ scheme’ with the upper lower wing using Light Slate Grey/Dark Slate Grey, the upper wing and fuselage as per the darker colours mentioned. Sky undersides.
  14. Getting them into position still in one piece is also an issue, the larger decals in particular. I have used Mr Setter and Mr Softener and these are the main solutions I use. Also I have Microset, Microsol and Mig in the drawer. I have tried a few others.
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