Bobs Buckles

Hi everyone, I want to share with you one of my recent builds - Fokker D.II from Special hobby.
I only used aftermarket instrument decals, kit contains PE seat belts and MG cowl, I made turnbuckles from medical needles and copper wires.
Please enjoy the photos and subscribe to my YouTube channel - https://www.youtube.com/c/FlyingCircusModels to see build videos.
 







 
 











 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

I also made a traditional base for the model and figure. This is a complete kit, a ready-made model.





The end :-)
 

That's one fine looking Gladdy!
Well done!!
 
Bob 

Superb! Well done 
 
Bob 

Almost have the entire fuselage covered, still have to cover the forward part or the radiator scoop and put on the filets for the wings and stabs.... Pretty funny, I noticed right away that the second side of the fuselage aluminum looked much better than the first side, learning curve.. for sure !!!
 

Cheers Bob

A bit of real work progress instead of solid modeling in Rhino, as I wait for 3D print parts in the mail - 
 
Remember the belly door?  Here, from a few weeks ago:
 

 
Now that most of the belly skinning is done, it can be installed.  It's position is controlled by a hydraulic actuator mounted on the center section spar.  The tough part was bonding the door to the fuselage (it didn't fit that well).  The actuator was easier, although the hydraulic hoses were pesky as usual:
 

 

 

 
And....just like that I have cleared the way to the very challenging engine accessories compartment project.  No more dawdling, delaying, looking for other things to do.
 
First is to start building the engine mount truss, you know, this:
 

 
 
The ring in front has been around for a couple years now - it is part of my diaphragm.  The first of many tubes has been done (lower LH main tube), with the attach fitting on the aft end:
 

 
I think I may have to build this up a little at a time, and mount stuff on it as I go.  We'll see.  Take a look at this nightmare:
 

 
That array of ugly contraptions is the support structure and the bell cranks, idlers, and control rods for the engine controls.  Yikes!!!  All mounted on - you guessed it - the engine mount truss.  How on earth am I going to do that?    
 
I am going to give it a go, either now, or after I get the carb air intake duct in there on the bottom of the compartment.  In the next couple of posts you should see something on both.   
 
Take care!
 

Finished up the main gear wells, painting pipes and other bits using chrome silver, gold for fittings, and black for hoses. Needless to say, it took some time to do this. Once finished, I applied weathering using black powder, and AK Engine Oil and Engine Grime, thinned so it will follow details using capillary action. 

 

 

 

 
 
 
 
 

Evening all 
 
With the paint work completed it was time to use the masks my mate had made for me (You know who you are thank very much for the speedy job) where upon disaster struck not once but twice the vinyl masks were originally too sticky pulling off sheets of the carefully laid on paint scheme.
 
After de tacking the vinyl masks I now faced the almost impossible task of laying a flat mask on a surface that curves in two directions at once, this then destroyed two of the masks before getting one on which still didn't fit correctly. It just made sense to use some decals from the spares box, even here it took several passes with Sol to make sure it settled down properly on the fuselage side. 
 
Not deterred by my earlier experience it was time to de tack the number 20's until they had almost no stick at all this was then sprayed with Tamiya LP-60 Nato Black.
The three number 20s on the cowling were chosen 1st as if it went wrong this would have been an easier option to re spray, all went well and flushed with success it was straight on to the fuselage numbers then followed by the tail codes 
 
So that the Star and Bar matched the fuselage both wings had decals put on the top and bottom instead of using the masks supplied 
 
To finish this session the Grey was sprayed  towards the fuselage Star and Bar giving a much neater final look
 

 

 

 

 

 
 
 
 
 
 

Love it

Starting to get more comfortable with the aluminum, the compound shapes of the cowling top and bottom were a bit of a learning curve, getting used to when to get the annealed aluminum verses the hardened... a lot of burnishing and sanding, then 0000 steel wool and embossing all the fasteners in... In retrospect I should have left the model as a "D" model instead of converting it as I would have only had to rebuild the cockpit area to more detail instead of spending all the time making a new spine and modifiying the wings, etc, etc, I only feel this way because I could have spent more of my time upfront on learning how to apply the aluminum skin instead of all the other mountains !!!
Lessons learned.... not...
 
 

That's one fine looking Gladdy!
Well done!!
 
Bob 

What can I say about this model? Nothing... Just used masks to paint the stars ann bars. Enjoy the pictures. Hope you like it!!!
 

 

 

 

 

 

Hello all,
 
This my attempt at the Hasegawa 1/32 FW 190 A5 kit. I found this to be an easy and fun build. I was motivated by some great builds at the Vegas Nats. I was able to pick the kit and decals while I was there. I have always had a fondness for the Yellow and Black checker nose. Reminds me of the Ernst Kessler Bird from the Movie The Great Waldo Pepper.  I riveted the skin and used G factor landing gear, Barracuda wheels, Quinta cockpit and a mix of Model Master and AK Paints. The pics were taken with my I phone. I find it easier to take these outdoor pics then trying to make a indoor studio picture.  I am a terrible photographer! 
 
 
 
Thanks for looking.
 
Rod

Good evening Chaps it's been somewhat manic recently not allowing any time for the work bench, however this weekend has been all quiet on the Western Front 
allowing for plenty of time to do some spray work.
 
1st a base of Tamiya Black LP1 was laid down on the whole model, closely followed by A splatter coat of Tamiya White LP2 using my new Ushi van der Rosten templates on the underside. This was all quickly followed by Hataka Insignia White using a cloudy freehand mottled effect.
 
Once completed the upper colour was laid down using Hataka Dark Gull Grey, firstly with the Ushi masks and then free hand mottles over the top as before.
 
I've now come to a point where I needed to be able to work around the markings on the fuselage but had forgotten to order them up a quick shopping trip online and Hannants will be able to oblige later this week although they are 1/48th scale I got a friend who can make me up some masks in 32nd scale (Hello Mate) I'm not naming names without asking him first.
 
PS I know it's totally sad but just makes life easier to decant my Tamiya paint into eye dropper bottles and idea stolen from Squidmar on You Tube
 

 

 

 

 

Hello Bob mate been very busy this week just managed to put a post in this evening I hope you enjoy?

Lovely work, Vince 
When can we expect an update?
 
Cheers,
Bob 

This is my first post in the LSP forum.
I will start by greeting all forum members.
Pleas find Below the very first models that I would like to present in the forum.
They are made without any additional elements straight out the box.

Set: Su-25 Frogfoot Trumpeter 1:32
Plane: Su-25M1 from Ukraine Air Force
Painting: Sikkens
Decal: Foxbot FBOT32001
Pitot Tubes: Master

Ejection seat detailing sequence/progress.
 
(Below) Liferaft Personal Survival Pack (PSP) completed and start of seat leather cushion.

 
Seat cushion shaped and slot created (kit seat cushion shown above it).

 
PSP and seat cushion assembled. The seat cushion has been shaped and scalloped to make it look used and sat on.

 

 
Start of parachute pack.

 

 

 
 

 
Test fit of parachute pack.

 
Check fit of parachute pack, PSP and seat cushion.

 

 
The parachute pack was covered in self adhesive aluminium foil (gas plumbers sealing tape).

 

 
A single piece of thin copper wire was added around the parachute pack to represent the edge pack cover beading.

 
The parachute pack cover material creases were impressed into the aluminium foil (which was the reason for covering it with foil in the first place).

 

 

 
Using the same aluminium foil, pack cover closure flaps and opening elastics were fashioned and added to the parachute pack. The parachute was completed with the addition of a parachute pack opening rip cord cable.

 

 
The assembled ejection seat Aircrew Equipment Assembly (AEA) and Survival Equipment assemblies so far. A parachute pack seat support has been added to the seat, which supports it as per the full size item. The square shaped grey plastic card is the start of the harness back pad assembly.

 
Derek

Time to throw some paint on the parts to see if the detailing looked OK. I used an aerosol can of Halfords acrylic grey paint as my base coat. Luckily for me, the colour hue of the paint is not too far away from the dark admiralty grey that I needed, but it was a little lighter, which suited me fine, so this will be my final cockpit colour (I have since given it a second coat in order to get to some areas that I first didn't cover completely).
 

 

 

 

 

 
Finally, the ejection seat. I attempted to do something about the very poor representation of the parachute, back pad and seat cushion (I did manage to reduce the size of the head pad below the upper ejection seat handle). However, it was so bad that I ripped out those areas of the seat and I will scratch build a new PSP, seat cushion, back pad, parachute and harness assembly. 
 

 
Derek

The instrument panel cowl needed some work as it was the wrong shape and had no (or incorrect) detail. An obvious feature not present in the kit cockpit are the cockpit warning panels which are in strip form on either side of the cockpit cowl sides, so I scratch built them. Below are some progress shots and comparison to another standard Trumpeter kit part for reference.
 

 

 

 

 
The Cockpit Warning Panels (CWP) were built up from thin plastic sheet - I used the grip parts of the plier jaws to create a regular ridge pattern in the plastic strip. These ridges were then filed to regular stepped angles. These were then cut to the correct lengths and were glued onto thin plastic card, which was also glued around all sides. Once dry, the individual CWP panels were sanded down to the correct size and shapes.
 

 

 
Some comparison shots of 'before' and 'after':
 

 
The kit cockpit does not provide rudder pedals, so I made some.
 

 
Below you can see where I have added a little more detail to the kit cockpit right console (anti-G valve and stop cock, light shroud and electrical panel).
 

 
The left cockpit consul was altogether much more problematical! (see below). As can be seen, the throttle panel as supplied in the kit is positioned much too far aft. I could not live with this, as it positions everything incorrectly, looks wrong and will not allow other key features to be added, so some drastic rectification was required. I removed the throttle panel from the console and filed the corresponding vertical angled panel flush to form a single flat vertical panel. I then modified, detailed and re-shaped the throttle panel before I mounted it in its correct forward position. Once this was done, I could then fill the void below it with a plain panel, hide the fictitious shaped at the back of the cockpit side panel with a plain electrical flat panel and finally add scratch made throttle quadrants and AI radar controller plus a couple of other knobs and levers (these are key features which are missing from the kit).
 

 
As the top of the angled cockpit seat bulkhead is a fairly prominent visual feature, I modified this area first to resemble more or less what would be expected to be seen in this area (see below). 
 

 
The top of the control column bears little resemblance to the real thing and is not angled correctly like it either, so I modified and detailed it to look something more like the way it should.
 

 

 

 
Derek

Just to prove that I have actually done something, it's time for another update!
 
With all of the cockpit component parts dismantled, cleaned up, shimmed, filled and sanded to retain their original pre-painted fit, it was time to assess if I wanted to do anything with them before I re-painted and assembled them.
 
After reference to my Lightning information (primarily my Daco English Electric Lightening book and lots of other books and pictures), I concluded that most of the Trumpeter cockpit is largely a work of fiction which only barely represents what is present in the real aircraft cockpit (what is provided by the kit is largely the wrong shape, size, type, in the wrong position or a combination of all of these). My choice was to either scratch build a complete new cockpit interior (the most accurate option), or compromise and attempt to enhance or add to the kit parts - I opted for the latter. So, I 'threw some shapes' at it!
 

 

 

 

 
The kit instrument panel again only represents some of the main dials and gauges appropriate to the EE Lightning F.Mk.6 aircraft. Therefore, I decided to upgrade this too by removing the kit switch detail from the left lower part of the panel, polishing it and replacing it with new more appropriate dials and switches (and a brake chute handle).
 

 

 

 

 

 
Derek
 

And the Pups are done.  I'll do proper "glamour" shots in RFI in due course, in the meantime here it is, and it's that very rare thing, a model that has turned out just about how I envisaged it.
 

 

 
Many thanks for all the encouragement along the way.

Matt,
 I think you're being a little hard on yourself.
The Camel looks excellent to my eye.
 
Keep up the great work. 
 
Bob  

Superb work, Kent!