blackbetty Posted December 20, 2013 Author Share Posted December 20, 2013 Hi Loic, buddy the problem is that more coats also act like the parts are greasy. the gunze paints will maybe act like this too in the pit, painting an IP this way seems impossible... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Out2gtcha Posted December 20, 2013 Share Posted December 20, 2013 Ouch......................If worse DOES come to worse Karl, and you have to strip all of that off, I might suggest s good cleaner / white wall automotive DE-greaser (or equivalent in Austria) . I use Black Magic (formerly Westleys) Bleche Wite for white wall tires This stuff is a might caustic if you get/leave it on your skin, but it cleans gunk, grime, grease and goes to town on mold release agents. If you can find it, or its equivalent, it might be a good jumping off point to get the primer layer(s) to stick. I soak my resin parts in the stuff overnight normally. scooternutz 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loic Posted December 20, 2013 Share Posted December 20, 2013 Oh, I see... I am sure you will find a way to deal with this mate Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cat_baloo Posted December 21, 2013 Share Posted December 21, 2013 Barely out of the gate and it's starting to buck on you. Failing a friutful search for Bleche-white you might also consider Mr Muscle oven cleaner. It's also rather caustic. Great for stripping enamels so it might very well take care of the mold release as well. HTH yiC Rossco Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackbetty Posted December 23, 2013 Author Share Posted December 23, 2013 thanx for the tips guys! anyone know a product in europe that doesnt harm the plastic? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D.B. Andrus Posted December 25, 2013 Share Posted December 25, 2013 What about using brake fluid? Used to work well as a paint remover on models. HTH, D,B. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Showtime 100 Posted December 25, 2013 Share Posted December 25, 2013 What about using brake fluid? Used to work well as a paint remover on models. HTH, D,B. Brake fluid is veeeery toxic. Even when used as intended. I would stay away from it. There's much safer solutions. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Showtime 100 Posted December 25, 2013 Share Posted December 25, 2013 like with the crusader i tend to prime all parts that will be white (like the underside of the intruder) with tamiya white primer before assembly, this time i can just not get the paint to cling to the parts correctly. i washed all the parts in dishwashing liquid and even scrubbed them with a soft brush, but no go i am a little reluctant to try something hotter in the fear of damaging the superb detail. these white parts were even primed gray with the automotive primer i use all the time before tamiya white the cockpit is also primed with it, it just doesnt spread evenly i think some tests on unused parts with alcohol or turpentine is in order any other guesses? Just going over the basics: What is the temperature of the room you're painting in? How old is the paint? What is the temperature of the paint when you're applying it? Are you mixing the paint thoroughly enough? Is this the first time you've built a Trumpeter model? Does the Trumpeter parts look/feel different from other model kit parts? Are you doing anything different with this build that you haven't done with other builds? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
raptorman0 Posted December 25, 2013 Share Posted December 25, 2013 Got this in the stash! Watching with interest :-) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loic Posted December 25, 2013 Share Posted December 25, 2013 Brake fluid may remove the model as well as the paint... I would not try that What about bleach? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackbetty Posted December 25, 2013 Author Share Posted December 25, 2013 thanx guys for trying to help me out Just going over the basics: What is the temperature of the room you're painting in? How old is the paint? What is the temperature of the paint when you're applying it? Are you mixing the paint thoroughly enough? Is this the first time you've built a Trumpeter model? Does the Trumpeter parts look/feel different from other model kit parts? Are you doing anything different with this build that you haven't done with other builds? - normal room tempetrature -couple of months - normal room tempetrature - rattlecan -no -no - no, have just done the F-8 and had only minimal problems of this sort on the geardoors, some coats solved the problem wirhout further action i will try to experiment further Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackbetty Posted January 9, 2014 Author Share Posted January 9, 2014 (edited) i have to wait for some tamiya primer to be delivered, so no more experimenting as of yet on the eagle build i used automotive rattlecan paint with good results, i will use this from now on but am reluctant to spray it over the tamiya primer. more experimenting necessary. i wasnt happy with the foil over the speedbrakes, so i puttied them and painted the floor of the pit, then masked it for further paint. the grey primer seems to work ok: Edited January 9, 2014 by blackbetty Uilleann 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loic Posted January 9, 2014 Share Posted January 9, 2014 Hurra !! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
P Stoner Posted January 9, 2014 Share Posted January 9, 2014 3 things that I found after building this kit a couple times now. The holes aft of the speed brakes are exhaust ports for the TRAM. The A/C vents on the B/N side should be filled and smoothed! There are no air scoop aft of that vent as well. Those are things to omit, and things to add are wing tip nav lights between the wing and speed brake. I think petrov27 did this on his WIP! Test fit the canopy rails good prior to painting! I didn't on both my builds and had a hell of a time at the end! Also add more weight to the frnt end, she'll sit on her tail! Super start to this BIG model, you'll enjoy it. My next one will be a hawk mud mover with the checkered tail! Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackbetty Posted January 20, 2014 Author Share Posted January 20, 2014 (edited) thanx Loic! Paul i will keep al of these mods in mind, thanx well after discovering this: http://forum.largescaleplanes.com/index.php?showtopic=48496&hl= i thought i would stall the build and wait for a good resin pit (i even pulled out a Mig 19 kit), but the issues of the stock pit just kept bugging me. since i would throw away the kit pit when using a resin one i might as well cut it up and see what i can do. so here goes (disclaimer: your mileage may vary, the faults in the kit are just my opinion, i love trumpeter kits, everyone is allowed to do OOB builds and has my full respect...did i forget something - i appologize in advance ): first i copied the intruder cockpit drawings and reduced them to 1:32 in size, the black IP is from the kit : if you cut it out and lay it over the kit parts the problems are obvious (see disclaimer above): Edited October 10, 2014 by blackbetty Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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