Uncarina Posted February 9, 2021 Author Share Posted February 9, 2021 4 minutes ago, Dennis7423 said: Tom- My understanding, and the route I plan to go with mine, is that the vertical stringers are exterior, and the vertical stringers are interior, aft of the main section where it starts to taper off towards the rear observation blister. This logically makes sense... the outside vertical ones provide shape, while the inside ones provide strength and structure. Additionally, they provide pressure-counter pressure. It also looks like the rear-most vertical frame is interior as well: Funny you bring this up, as I just finished up the padding at the rear of the cockpit area in preparation for beginning my canopy work. I just finished mounting all four engines this morning, so aside from some seam work, the wings are complete. Time to get started on the fuselage again! The end is in sight... - Dennis S. Thornton, CO USA Great photo Dennis, and nice progress on your build. The confusion here is that just as many wartime Lancs appear to have external framing for the area mentioned as those without. Which way will you go with “Phantom of the Ruhr”? Cheers, Tom Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Uncarina Posted February 9, 2021 Author Share Posted February 9, 2021 3 hours ago, Bomber Command nut said: Bomb doors were usually opened when the aircraft got back to dispersal, 1. to check for any hang ups by the groundcrew and also 2. it saved having to get a FME back in the morning to start an engine to open the doors. Flaps were usually left up but sometimes hydraulic pressure dropped and the flaps gradually came down a little . . . Thanks Ian! Cheers, Tom Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dennis7423 Posted February 9, 2021 Share Posted February 9, 2021 16 minutes ago, Uncarina said: Which way will you go with “Phantom of the Ruhr”? I am planning on going the route in the photo I posted... the front two of the rear vertical stringers will be exterior, and the remainder will be interior. - Dennis S. Thornton, CO USA Derek B 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Uncarina Posted February 9, 2021 Author Share Posted February 9, 2021 Dennis, your call of course! Looking at the few wartime photos of “Phantom” that I have, I’d lean in that direction as well. Cheers, Tom Derek B and Dennis7423 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Finn Posted February 9, 2021 Share Posted February 9, 2021 Here is another pic: and what the insides look like: Jari Uncarina, Bomber Command nut, Dennis7423 and 2 others 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Uncarina Posted February 9, 2021 Author Share Posted February 9, 2021 Jari, These are great reference photos! Cheers, Tom monthebiff and Derek B 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monthebiff Posted February 9, 2021 Share Posted February 9, 2021 Hey Tom, an excellent spot on the framing which I've not noticed before! Funnily enough I've been looking at the big glasshouse that covers the Lancaster cockpit and trying to decide what details I wish to add to it. After seeing these pictures I may need a rethink but also saying that after looking carefully at the beautiful HK clear parts we are in to sanding away external framing etc, future and hopefully it will work very nicely. Very interested on people's thoughts on how this can be done as my thoughts are that it would need the rear framing sanding back and then all polished up followed by masking and having to spray the internal framing from the outside if that makes sense. Regards.Andy Derek B, Uncarina and Bomber Command nut 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Uncarina Posted February 10, 2021 Author Share Posted February 10, 2021 (edited) Andy, glad to be of service! My thinking was to sand back and polish the “offending” frames as you mention, then apply internal masks to the entire interior, painting all frames from the inside; for the exterior paint I would also mask but would cover these frames so they don’t get painted. Then I would check out Archer’s Fine Transfers to select rivets to add. Hope this helps! Cheers, Tom Edited February 12, 2021 by Uncarina Derek B and R Palimaka 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bomber Command nut Posted February 10, 2021 Share Posted February 10, 2021 (edited) 11 hours ago, monthebiff said: Hey Tom, an excellent spot on the framing which I've not noticed before! Funnily enough I've been looking at the big glasshouse that covers the Lancaster cockpit and trying to decide what details I wish to add to it. After seeing these pictures I may need a rethink but also saying that after looking carefully at the beautiful HK clear parts we are in to sanding away external framing etc, future and hopefully it will work very nicely. Very interested on people's thoughts on how this can be done as my thoughts are that it would need the rear framing sanding back and then all polished up followed by masking and having to spray the internal framing from the outside if that makes sense. Regards.Andy I too have considered doing this but the HK canopy is so clear I dont know if I could polish it back to the same quality ??? Spraying the inside frame from the outside would surely create the same thing externally . . . 10 hours ago, Uncarina said: Andy, glad to be of service! My thinking was to sand back and polish the “offending” frames as you mention, then apply internal masks to the entire interior, painting all frames from the inside; for the exterior paint I would also mask but wouldn’t cover these frames. Then I would check out Archer’s Fine Transfers to select rivets to add. Hope this helps! Cheers, Tom Se what you have done Tom ?? Started a revolution trying to create canopy frames them dont have frames . . . I have a number of photos showing the canopy with crew in the window but the detail isnt that clear to say one way or the other. having said that, I do have ONE clear photo and the framework is absent on the sections already mentioned, similar to the photo in the above post, and I will be honest, I thought it was a repair and the external framing had be omitted for ease of repair . . . Carry on the good Andy and Tom, we are all intrigued .. . Ian Edited February 10, 2021 by Bomber Command nut Uncarina, Derek B and monthebiff 2 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Uncarina Posted February 10, 2021 Author Share Posted February 10, 2021 All part of my scheme Ian! Muahahaha! Seriously though, seems that with some subjects that have the external framing you can avoid this altogether. And the vast majority of the people who look at our models won’t know the difference! Cheers, Tom Derek B 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dennis7423 Posted February 10, 2021 Share Posted February 10, 2021 1 hour ago, Uncarina said: All part of my scheme Ian! Muahahaha! I suppose I'm going to be the nut that sands off the frames where appropriate and paints them from the inside, too! I like your idea of adding Archer rivets. I will do the same. As I've been laboring over these photos, I realize we don't have any from above. Anyone have any idea what the framework looks like on the top of the canopy? I want to make sure I don't remove anything I shouldn't be removing. - Dennis S. Thornton, CO USA Uncarina and Derek B 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monthebiff Posted February 10, 2021 Share Posted February 10, 2021 My feeling on the rear canopy framing is that after sanding back, polishing and a dip in future which will hopefully make the work blend in to the rest of the canopy which is beautifully molded and super clear is that the painted internal framing may look a little strange when viewing from the outside? I need to have a little experiment on this and see what is achievable! Regards. Andy Uncarina 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Finn Posted February 10, 2021 Share Posted February 10, 2021 Not the best view of the canopy frame work but you can make out some details: Jari Uncarina and Dennis7423 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dennis7423 Posted February 10, 2021 Share Posted February 10, 2021 Thank you Jari, that is very helpful! Fortunately, it looks like I'll only need to remove a few frames, not an entire rear canopy's worth. Andy, just take your time working with it, and stray away from heavy grits once you're getting close to the canopy. Go light, work in circles, and get a good polishing compount to hit it with afterward you work through your sanding pads. I've removed some seams and frames from canopies before, and if you take your time, you can't even tell they were there in the first place. - Dennis S. Thornton, CO USA Bomber Command nut, Uncarina and monthebiff 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dennis7423 Posted February 11, 2021 Share Posted February 11, 2021 Tom- I figured I would post this here, since several of us are working on our canopies currently! I was lying in bed, and came up with a decent solution. Is it risky? You betcha. But no risk-it, no biscuit! I decided that I would gently apply Evergreen stock into the interior of the canopy, similar to what WnW was going to provide with their Lancaster kit. I feel okay leaving these without paint currently, because the side that's nestled up against the frame will be hidden by the exterior frame painting. I used round stock to simulate the rounded frame we've seen in several photos here: I applied these with a tiny bit of Tamiya extra thin, and worked my way from one side to the other, giving it a little dab at each stringer/former junction. This took about a half hour for these three. I only have one little tiny slip to buff out, but fortunately, because extra thin dries so fast, it doesn't eat deep down into the plastic like other solvents. Should be cake. My plan moving forward is to complete the remainder of the vertical frames in this manner, and then apply flat stock for the horizontal frames, which will be painted black on the outward facing side before install. Then, I will sand off the exterior frames where appropriate, sand them smooth and buff with Novus plastic polish, and paint the remaining parts of the horizontals and verticals on the interior. Voila, canopy bracing, accurately reproduced, and appropriate to the photographs we've been stewing over. I also plan to be an absolute nut and trace the side blister onto the starboard side flat panel, and drill out the side window to more accurately reproduce an actual blister you can stick your 1/32 head into. The flat panel behind the blister just bugs the snot outta me. So, I will try and fix it. Without cracking or breaking the canopy. Wish me luck! Hope this is helpful Tom, and helps us and others driving forward. - Dennis S. Thornton, CO USA jeroen_R90S, shepard, scvrobeson and 4 others 7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now