anj4de Posted October 17, 2018 Share Posted October 17, 2018 Hello all I have a Hasegawa (Revell boxing) K4 that I would like to build soon, maybe even as a G10. Now I know of the issue with the squarish fuselage behind the cockpit. I wonder if anybody has tried to marry the rear part of the Revell G6 or G10 to the Hasegawa front? I just got another Revell G6 for less then 20EUR that could serve as the parts donor. Alternatively I also still have the Revell G4 boxing of the Hase kit that could be used as well... Has anybody done this transplantation already? thanks Uwe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeMaben Posted October 17, 2018 Share Posted October 17, 2018 Haven't seen that done yet Uwe , you could be the first !! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mhorina Posted October 17, 2018 Share Posted October 17, 2018 (edited) It can be done. I have done it at least twice. I lost most of my hobby info about 5 months ago .It is really simple. Both kits can be cut on the 1st panel line that that is behind the cockpit and is the 1st line that clears the rear of the wings. There is a panel line that is under the rear of the cockpit that can be also removed that ends at that panel line I just mentioned. Depending on which cockpit you want to use. I used the Hasegawa front and cut the rear cockpit panel from it .That way using the Revell back panel gives you a edge to strengthen the panels. That way you have more holding the fuselage instead of just a vertical line. If you want to use the rear of the cockpit from the Revell kit don't cut it from the fuselage. HTH Mike Horina Edited October 17, 2018 by mhorina D.B. Andrus 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
anj4de Posted October 17, 2018 Author Share Posted October 17, 2018 Hello Mike Did you use the Revell tail or the Hasegawa G4/6 one? thanks Uwe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mhorina Posted October 17, 2018 Share Posted October 17, 2018 I believe I used the complete Revell fuselage . I think ,if I remember correctly , you can use either kits rudders with the Revell fin . Not sure which of the rudders I used' Mike Horina Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oyoy5 Posted October 18, 2018 Share Posted October 18, 2018 Fascinating for sure would love pics to see how this is done have wondered myself if the Revell Rear fuselage would work. Mike do you have any pics by chance? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mhorina Posted October 18, 2018 Share Posted October 18, 2018 Sorry I have no pictures to show how it was done. I did it soon after the Revell 109 kit was released. It would be maybe 10 years ago and I lost my computer that had my hobby stuff on it. At one time I thought I had outlined it on the LSP site. Long time back I did a Croatian 109 using this to make Black 4. I think there was some discussion on this site at the time. Sorry I can't help more. It is really not that hard if you study the 2 kits with the thought of doing it. Mike Horina Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phasephantomphixer Posted October 18, 2018 Share Posted October 18, 2018 And while at it, IIRC there a few belly pan details (between the LG) like drains, etc. to add... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
anj4de Posted October 18, 2018 Author Share Posted October 18, 2018 1 hour ago, phasephantomphixer said: And while at it, IIRC there a few belly pan details (between the LG) like drains, etc. to add... For the -K belly... http://www.clubhyper.com/reference/k4bellyvk_1.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Radub Posted October 18, 2018 Share Posted October 18, 2018 If I recall correctly, the disteance between the outer edges of the cockpit sill of the Hasegawa K-4 is wider than the cockpit sill of their "early" G kits. That may make it harder to blend the fuselage parts. But it is worth a try. Radu Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick Griewski Posted October 18, 2018 Share Posted October 18, 2018 (edited) I recall the same difference Radu, . Maybe minimize the shape of the area with sanding and or/epoxy putty you can use to reshape it. Hyperscale and in particular Lynn Ritger posts discuss the anomaly. Rick Edited October 18, 2018 by Rick Griewski Eliminate unwanted sentence fragment Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
anj4de Posted October 18, 2018 Author Share Posted October 18, 2018 Hello again I think I got it sorted...I was taking the Erla canopy from the Hase G-14 and held it on the K4 fuselage. The squarish part is not too bad. So I taped up the fuselage real good and sanded the profile more round until the G14 parts was fitting. The K4 cockpit is a touch wider in total but it's really not much, less then 1mm. I will now rescribe the missing details and shot some primer on the area, then we will see. The Revell Erla canopies are also a touch narrower but when I install the Galland armor of the Hase kit it gets spread to the right width. cheers Uwe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick Griewski Posted October 18, 2018 Share Posted October 18, 2018 Excellent, Have fun always! Bill_S 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mhorina Posted October 20, 2018 Share Posted October 20, 2018 Uwe Sent you a PM Mike Horina Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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