flightline Posted August 30, 2018 Share Posted August 30, 2018 Plastic to PE Resin to Plastic PE to Resin I'm really struggling with working time when I'm trying to fix especially small after-market resin and PE parts to Plastic and PE to resin Cyno/ superglue just doesn't give me any margin for error at all - I need more working time I can and do solder where appropriate. Ignoring Cyno, the main choices are Gator, 2 part epoxy, Gorilla and varnish I almost never mix different glues on the one sub assembly ( ie superglue to for example fix the top edge of a small part in place and some other glue to hold down the rest of the job) So guys if you need to buy some working time to worry a small part into just the right place, what do you use ? - brand names would help ! Please assume I have washed and cleaned parts properly (I do) and that I have some appropriate means of holding the parts in place once glue has been applied so the glue can set up TIA David Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_Kevin Posted August 30, 2018 Share Posted August 30, 2018 For this kind of thing, I almost always turn to Gator's Grip. http://www.gatorsmask.com/gatorglueorder1.html Kev MikeC 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flightline Posted August 30, 2018 Author Share Posted August 30, 2018 Thanks Kevin Appreciate the link, but do you know whether this stuff is available in Australia ? regards David Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_Kevin Posted August 30, 2018 Share Posted August 30, 2018 I got mine from Red Roo, but the page isn't showing any product at the moment: https://www.redroomodels.com/tools/gators-grip-acrylic-hobby-glue/ Otherwise, it's also available at Wargame Miniatures: http://www.wargameminiatures.com.au/hobby/glue/gator-s-grip-acrylic-hobby-glue.html Kev Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Radub Posted August 30, 2018 Share Posted August 30, 2018 (edited) I very seldom use cyanoacrylate on PE. First of all, always prime metal with a primer for metal. It has to be a primer for metal, just "any primer" will not do. For example. Mr Surfacer is not a good primer for metal. Tamiya makes a primer for metal in a spray can and you can also get primers for metal from a variety of manufacturer of paints for "white metal" figures such as Vallejo, Warhammer, etc. Go to your nearest Games Workshop and get a primer for metal from them. Priming the metal parts, all metal parts, will help with both gluing and painting. Do not believe the "fairy tale" that if you rub the P/E with sandpaper it will increase adhesion. Fist of all, you risk damaging fine parts and secondly the scratches that you will make on the metal will be too fine and the glue's own surface tension will prevent it from getting into such fine scratches. Primers are not even that expensive. Priming your metal parts is not a secret or some new-fangled affectation - you learn that in metal workshop in school. Car modellers always prime their metal parts. After priming you can use a variety of adhesives: - For flat parts that do not bear any weight and do not stick out of the surface, such as placards, instrument panels, etc, you can use Johnson's Klear and you will be suprised how effective it is. - For parts that stick out and bear some weight, which can also be snagged, such as railings, gun sights, ship masts, I recommend Pacer Formula 560 which is a strong PVA-like glue designed for gluing clear parts on flyable aircraft. It is easily available, it is not expensive and a bottle will last a lifetime. - For large parts that need to lay flat on surfaces such as armour plates, etc, I recommend the rubbery-type "contact" glue such as UHU Alleskleber or Revell Contacta Liquid Special, which is similar. Do not expect glue to hold curved parts in place. If a metal part needs to fit onto a curved surface, bend and curve the part until it rests on the surface without any pressure and then apply glue. HTH Radu Edited August 30, 2018 by Radub D.B. Andrus, MikeC, Out2gtcha and 2 others 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony T Posted August 30, 2018 Share Posted August 30, 2018 Agree with Radub. Formula 560 canopy glue is wonderful stuff. It'll take a little while to set but dries clear and with a useful elasticity. Tony Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wunwinglow Posted August 30, 2018 Share Posted August 30, 2018 For etched surface details, spray the back of the etchings while still on their frame with aerosol acrylic gloss lacquer (Halford, here in the UK) let it dry, then after cutting the parts free and positioning them on bare plastic, Tamiya Thin will stick them like the proverbial. Perfect for all the fabric quick release fasteners on my Swordfish! Out2gtcha, D.B. Andrus and MikeC 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D.B. Andrus Posted August 31, 2018 Share Posted August 31, 2018 Attaching non-stressed PE works pretty well with Tamiya X-22 Clear. Been very happy with the result. Cheers, D.B. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeC Posted August 31, 2018 Share Posted August 31, 2018 Another vote for Gator's Grip here. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thierry laurent Posted August 31, 2018 Share Posted August 31, 2018 For such things, I use a lot of gel CA glue. This does not run everywhere and has a slower drying time. Out2gtcha and wunwinglow 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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