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Gloster Meteor F4


mozart

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Did some gentle sanding along the fuselage join line to get rid of any seams, having first run some liquid putty along them (basically plastic dissolved into a liquid state like we used to do in the old days with shavings of plastic sprue mixed into glue).  So today I gave it a light coating of Tamiya fine primer hoping not to see any phantom seams.....fortunately not.

 

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The PE bits behind the cockpit were fitted:

 

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It appears the perceived wisdom to get a good wing join is to fit the upper wings first.....who am I to argue?  So, starboard upper wing in place:
 
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Max
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Both upper wings fitted reasonably successfully: the stbd is perfect but there's a bit of a ledge on the aft part of the port one which I'll either need to sand or carefully ease apart and re-align, haven't decided which option to take quite yet but today's target was to get the lower wings fitted.  That will be in jeopardy if I go down the second route which gut feeling tells me is the better one:

 

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Fortunately on the fuselage just a minimum of re-scribing and re-riveting is required:

 

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I'm using the excellent G Factor brass undercarriage, I've started the minimal amount of clean up necessary having cut off the casting lugs:
 
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Found this marvellous pic this morning of a 600 squadron F4.  Despite it being a part of an inspection it's interesting to note how scruffy the plane looks, and the tonal variation between the cockpit section and the aft section despite the whole airframe being painted "high speed silver":
 
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Lots of great detail there on a closer look, including the seat belts thrown over the cockpit edge.  This is very much the finish that I'll be aiming for. smile.png  I understand that the leading edges of the engine nacelles were actually rings of wood, so that chipping isn't showing bare metal but wood!
Max
Edited by mozart
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I've been focussing on the wheels and u/c today, though I did also get the ventral tank sprayed too.  The wheels are finished, the u/c obviously painted but now needing weathering.  

 

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These are my favourite paints, very thin and spray like a dream.  Although acrylic they are rather pungent so lots of ventilation and a face mask required.
 
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Lightly weathered using Flory's Dark Dirt:

 

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The whole undercarriage looks and feels pretty damned good....really pleased with it! smile.png  even though I say so myself.  It's true the G Factor stuff is expensive but well worth it in my opinion.

 

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Max
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Test fitting the undercarriage, all looking good, and the ventral tank though I have to add the rear slinging point band on it:

 

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More filler was required to fair in the nacelles than I'd have liked, my incompetence to blame not Fisher's mouldings.  A few details to do then ready for the paint shop.
 
Max
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Very nice work Max.

 

I'll only be getting one of those kits, but can't decide whether to go for the F4 like you (with its harking back to the WWII era tail fin and marking style)

or go for a Fisher assisted F8 which is really the high point of the design for single-seaters. I'm not fussed about the gaudy markings which

tend to be associated with the later model either, as the surface detail HK has provided is attractive enough.

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Max,

 

Wonderful work to see! Did you buy the G-Factor set due to the kit gear being too fragile?

 

Cheers, Tom

 

Thanks Tom.  I guess I'm a bit of a sucker for AM stuff, I'd read here how good the G Factor legs were so I thought they were worth a punt, and it was.  You do have to do some cleaning up so a good set of needle files are necessary, and cutting the pouring lugs off is time consuming, especially the front leg but the quality is superb.  They are obviously sturdier than the kit undercarriage legs but I think the weakest part in the kit are the wheels, so the Brassin ones make such a difference.

 

 

Very nice work Max.

 

I'll only be getting one of those kits, but can't decide whether to go for the F4 like you (with its harking back to the WWII era tail fin and marking style)

or go for a Fisher assisted F8 which is really the high point of the design for single-seaters. I'm not fussed about the gaudy markings which

tend to be associated with the later model either, as the surface detail HK has provided is attractive enough.

 

Cheers Chek, I think any option would be a good one.  I'm enjoying this one so much that I'll probably get another and do the trainer version when Paul Fisher issues his upgrade bits and pieces.

 

Max

Edited by mozart
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Time to start thinking about canopy masking before final priming takes place, but before that the gunsight upgrade: before painting and after painting shots plus the addition of the glass reflector and another "button" on the right hand side that seems to be there.  I've also made a small de-mister unit behind the cockpit:

 

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Test fitting for'd and aft canopy sections, all's looking good:

 
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New gunsight temporarily fitted, all's looking good:
 
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Ah, Houston, we have a problem!  The sight just fouls the inside of the canopy! :(
 
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Options...I could re-seat the gun sight so that it's slightly lower though this may then foul the IP, so I may have to thin the gun sight base, or I apply a bit of pressure to the canopy to make it fix to the fuselage, or I move the canopy forward slightly - perhaps the best option since the sliding centre section will be open so the join won't be a problem.  Hmmmm... :unsure:

Edited by mozart
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