Uilleann Posted November 27, 2013 Author Share Posted November 27, 2013 (edited) Hello crew, Seeing as it's been ages since my last update, it seems it's time to post more of my snail's pace progress on the black beauty. The precious few minutes I've been able to find over the past two weeks have been spent waiting for paint to dry on the nose gear so I can finally get a second coat of white down. It's still very slightly tacky if you can believe it...and I'm sure that our slightly damp weather of late hasn't helped. At any rate, I'm hoping to make some flavor of progress on that this coming extended weekend. In the mean time, I've given a bit of attention to the nose gear door in preparation for some paint and wiring. (Sadly I forgot to take a good "before" shot to show what the kit gives you to work with. Might I kindly direct your attention to the very thorough write up at Scale Plastic and Rail here: As well as Andy's build over at Zone Five here for a peek at the stock offering: Fairly plain, and unconvincing wouldn't you agree? So off with the kit "wires" and hangers, and on with a little photo etched brass from the rather nice Eduard exterior PE set. Filled the kit strengthening corrugations with some green stuff, added the door sensor (I think?) on the forward edge, as well as the two latch mechanisms (I believe?) on the bottom with some bits of card and tube, and a few PE bits I had left over: As the pics show, I also wasn't keen on the Trumpy door retraction hydraulic ram, so threw a new one together with a bit of brass tube, steel rod, touch of styrene, and more CA than I should probably admit to. While I won't proudly hold it up against a photo of the real thing, I feel it's still a worthwhile improvement over what I was given to start with. Your thoughts? Cheers all! Brian~ Edited February 21, 2017 by Uilleann Youngtiger1, A-10LOADER and Showtime 100 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_Kevin Posted November 27, 2013 Share Posted November 27, 2013 Excellent work Brian, and definitely a major improvement over the stock kit part. Kev Uilleann 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Youngtiger1 Posted November 27, 2013 Share Posted November 27, 2013 Dang Brian, that LG door looks sweet. It's amazing how some PE detail makes huge difference. Also, I like how clean work you've done...I mean, I hardly see any superglue residue. Btw, I was talking to a modeler at a show about painting figures with oil paints and a little detail about how he dries them caught my attention. He said that he created a box big enough to house a 60w light bulb and his figure. Each night after he paints his figure he places them in the box and turn on the light. By morning, it's perfectly dry and ready for another coat. I know we all, LSP guys, can't build big box with bulbs to dry out models in when it's cold outside, but I figure it might give you some idea on helping you dry your stuff in cold/moist weather...at least, drying small parts. Anyway, doing great work as usual. 2 thumbs up. Uilleann 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackbetty Posted November 27, 2013 Share Posted November 27, 2013 i love your build! Uilleann 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted November 27, 2013 Share Posted November 27, 2013 I swear, you could make a turd look good ! As always, excellent work my friend........Harv Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Peterpools Posted November 27, 2013 Share Posted November 27, 2013 Brian Way to go ... sure looks like the real deal and light years ahead of the Trump door. Keep 'em coming Peter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shepard Posted November 27, 2013 Share Posted November 27, 2013 fantastic.... cheers shep Uilleann 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Uilleann Posted November 27, 2013 Author Share Posted November 27, 2013 Out of curiosity - can anyone positively ID the function of the two bits I added (from the real thing here of course): My suspicions are that the first bit is part of the latch or lock mechanism of the door, and the second might be related to a door closed/open sensor for the indicators in the cockpit maybe? Showtime 100 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Uilleann Posted November 27, 2013 Author Share Posted November 27, 2013 I swear, you could make a turd look good ! As always, excellent work my friend........Harv Well, if Eduard make a PE set for one... LOL Do you know if turds take to super glue well, and should I use enamel or acrylic paint when adding a wash? Dang Brian, that LG door looks sweet. It's amazing how some PE detail makes huge difference. Also, I like how clean work you've done...I mean, I hardly see any superglue residue. Btw, I was talking to a modeler at a show about painting figures with oil paints and a little detail about how he dries them caught my attention. He said that he created a box big enough to house a 60w light bulb and his figure. Each night after he paints his figure he places them in the box and turn on the light. By morning, it's perfectly dry and ready for another coat. I know we all, LSP guys, can't build big box with bulbs to dry out models in when it's cold outside, but I figure it might give you some idea on helping you dry your stuff in cold/moist weather...at least, drying small parts. Anyway, doing great work as usual. 2 thumbs up. I've found the trick to nice clean super glue application is to hide all the extra glue and residue on your FINGERS! (Shhhhhh! It's my own little secret though...don't let it get out!) I don't have space in my house right now to make a light/heat box sadly...though the concept is interesting. I do know that violin/fiddle luthiers often employ UV light boxes to 'cure' their work while still "in the white" - before any varnish or polish is applied. The theory being it helps to relax the wood, and 'age' it to sound more mellow when all done. If you can find the throttle and top grip from the Academy Hornet you could use those as replacements. Cockpit looks superb I am still looking for a throttle body, though the stick (which I had sent to me out of the immense kindness of a fellow LSP-er) isn't really right at all. The shape on the Trumpy stick is more or less correct, if very slightly large. But the face of the handle is completely different, as is the index finger trigger on the back (panel facing) side. I did my best to enhance the stock stick, but I may well keep banging away at it at some later date to try and bring it a little closer in line with the real deal. Cheers all! Really appreciating the feedback. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Uilleann Posted December 3, 2013 Author Share Posted December 3, 2013 (edited) Shot a coat of white onto the nose gear again, as well as the gear door innards (and some black on the exterior - though it will need to be re-done at some point), and added a few more bits and pieces to the nose gear well. Have switched over to a semi-gloss instead of full gloss, and tried out thinning with lacquer thinner as opposed to enamel airbrush thinner. So far, so good. Will add another goat to the gear, but am happy with the appearance of the door. Still need to add the hydraulic and electrical lines to the door of course, though all in good time. Really liking the look of the PE, and the added goodies to the well really help it along as well: Bri~ Edited February 21, 2017 by Uilleann A-10LOADER 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Azgaron Posted December 3, 2013 Share Posted December 3, 2013 Very nice landing gear and bay! Nice work Brian! HÃ¥kan Uilleann 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Peterpools Posted December 3, 2013 Share Posted December 3, 2013 Bri Awesome, simply awesome looking Keep 'em coming Peter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
viperfixer Posted December 3, 2013 Share Posted December 3, 2013 Loving your build so far! Great effort on the landing gear, really pays off. Keep it coming! Uilleann 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Uilleann Posted December 4, 2013 Author Share Posted December 4, 2013 Cheers Gents. Out of random curiosity - do any of you know if there exists such a thing as .005" - .007" lead wire - and if so, where to source it?? the .010 seems to be the smallest I can find, and I have need of just a touch thinner in a few spots. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveJ Posted December 4, 2013 Share Posted December 4, 2013 Cheers Gents. Out of random curiosity - do any of you know if there exists such a thing as .005" - .007" lead wire - and if so, where to source it?? the .010 seems to be the smallest I can find, and I have need of just a touch thinner in a few spots. You can get single guitar strings down to .008 but they're rather stiff so I'm not sure if that would work for you. Uilleann 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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