WnW AMC DH-2 7907 ---- 32 Sqn Sept 1916 ---- DONE!

[JamesHatch]

I used to build stick and string models and the light colour of the timber against the fabric doesn't cause a dark, shadow effect. Just the opposite. The deeper, darker recesses cause shadow.

 

You're looking at black and white photos where heavy light is shining through an upper surface which is also CDL. My wing has a PC10 upper, and you would get little to zero light coming through it, so it would be in shadow, with lighter contrasting timbers against the covering.

Edited November 22, 2012 by James H

[LSP_Ron]

Brian, it's your build so my first suggestion is build it how you'd like to see it.

 

 

I think the shading depends on the lighting vantage point and the top color applied.

 

 

 

[Out2gtcha]

Yep, Ron thats pretty much what im plannin on.................

 

I intially was planning on putting PC.10 on my upper wings but am having second thoughts. Im thinking now of even making a more unusual DH scheme which has CDL on all the uppers like the tail plane of yours. If I do that one im definitely going to do the dark shadows on the ribs:

 

 

 

Might attempt something like this:

 

 

If I do the above ship, I may even attempt to ghost some roundels on the undersides of the wings.

 

I may also stick with the PC.10 uppers version I initially started out to do. I think James method looks correct for darker uppers.

[mdeanstrauss]

hmmm... just caught up on this thread... always an education reading what you are doing... for you, it's like shooting fish in a barrel!

[Out2gtcha]

Thanks Mitch.

 

Well after a little break to finish up and relax with some beaver, Im back to the string bag. All of the clamor about the upcoming GB has me back in the saddle on this one.

 

I find it so strange……………

 

Im so in love with this hobby, as it gives me real joy in so many ways, but do any of you guys ever just have trouble even getting to the bench?? I mean sometimes I actually have time, and just need to get to the bench……but procrastinate……….but……………..once I DO get there, usually I end up finally getting in a groove, and some actual modeling takes place.

 

This weekend so far has been no exception. It took forever it seemed but once I did, I got on a roll.

 

I started by following WnWs directions and taking all but two of the little nibs molded in about 3 pairs on the top and bottom of the top wing. I used some electrical tape to mask off the rib tape, but forgot about the wing retaining tabs, so had to bust out the Archer rivets –

 

 

I took out some MM semi-gloss clear and cleared all of the cockpit parts in prep for a wash, (no pics since it looks just the same as before only slightly shinier) and moved on to prep the rest of the large airframe parts.

 

I mixed up some very thin flat white, and gave the bottoms of the flying surfaces including the rudder/vert stab, and the fuse halves a thin coat as a base for the upcoming CDL –

 

 

 

 

Next up was the CDL, which WnW recommends using XF55, but after spraying some, came out way too gray to me.

 

I reverted back to what I know and love, enamels. After some experimentation and some research on the good old inter-webs (was searching for a stock color I could use that was close that I liked) I settled on “Raydome tan”. It’s a very interesting color to shoot and try to capture what it actually looks like. I found the best was in natural light, but didn’t have that here, so the tint is funny looking in places. Im going to be using a “mid-shading” technique here, so Im applying a thin layer of CDL now to get a good color base down, then Ill shadow shade, then apply a very light layer of CDL over that. Here I laid on the base layer of CDL –

 

 

 

Ill be letting this dry, whilst I go watch some NFL football, then later tonight Ill attempt to shoot some PC-10, then possibly have a go at some shadowing using the existing main color with some black added tomorrow or maybe even mon, as I took off Sun and Mon nights from work to get some relaxing and modeling in.

 

More pics later gents…………

Cheers!

[Guest Peterpools]

Brian

Looking good and glad to see you're back at the bench and painting the DH-2. Did some painting myself on the Albatross wings and decided not to really hight light the rib tape but lighten up the area in between each rib just to be a bit different. After all, we're all kind of in new waters together.

Keep 'em coming :thumbsup:

Back to the Jet game

Peter :popcorn:

[LSP_Paul]

Brian, I think you're right on the money, the radome tan will make an excellent Base Color for the linen. Great progress, looking forward to more,

Paul

[Wolf Buddee]

Boy can I identify with having a hard time getting back to the bench! Your sentiments couldn't be more right as once I finally settle back on the bench I always find myself asking why it took sooooo long the get back to it!

 

Glad to see you back at this one Brian. One question though, have you noticed that when the cockpit/engine nacelle assembly is complete, the foot step on the nacelle side opens directly in to the cockpit? It doesn't appear to be blocked off from behind in any way. Is that accurate?

 

Cheers,

Wolf

[LSP_Ron]

Looking good,

 

I am exactly the same way Brian, I've had a bugger of a week and the bench didn't have much appeal but today it was nagging at me so I managed to belly up and get something done...... and enjoyed it too...

 

Ron

[mdeanstrauss]

 

...do any of you guys ever just have trouble even getting to the bench??

 

The last two kits I built, I was in obsession mode the whole time... I have actually enjoyed the two week space in my life since finishing off the last kit, but am getting ready to hit obsession mode again shortly... starting a WIP tonight...

 

great job Brian...

[Out2gtcha]

Thanks all, glad to know im not alone! For whatever reason (maybe because its colder than a witches something in a brass something in winter here………or whatever…….

 

Whatever it was, I was motivated, and spent the all day night in the work shop working on fuselage details.

I let the CDL set, and concentrated on the fuse, getting rigging, and small decals and what not square so I can eventually head toward closing up the dammed thing.

 

Its still going together hella sweet. Its some of the best engineering Ive ever seen. I started off by taking the inner wooden framework, and tracing it onto a sheet of my old pal frisket film. I traced the reverse side of the fuselages frame onto the other side, as its going to be the shadow outline on the opposite side on the outside. I think it will look cool, if my technique im going to try works. That remains to be seen!

 

 

 

I set these aside, and finished up detail painting some interior bits, then added instrument decals, compass (that I promptly ruined, and had to replace with some random instrument decal from the spares bin so DON’T LOOK! ) –

 

Things honestly look way better from a foot or two away as aposed to some of the in-ur-face-and-personal type pics I took –

 

Frames are mostly complete and really grunged up…………from the pics Ive seen these things looked super nasty –

 

 

 

 

I also got most of the control wiring/rigging done below the pilots seat, as that all had to be done before the seat could go in (which I just painted as well). i also gunked up the pilots wooden foot stlides with a Tamiya "mud stick" that seemed to work pretty well for replicating muds thick chunky properties...........I just didnt want to over due it here. Will likely use this a bit oh the wheels as well –

 

 

 

MORE……………………………

Edited December 10, 2012 by Out2gtcha

[Guest Peterpools]

Brian

Awesome progress Buddy .. Sure is looking good

Keep 'em coming

Peter :popcorn:

[Out2gtcha]

Thanks Peter.

 

Like I said, everything looks better from further away, and the macro is merciless, so it will all have to do. Im happy with most of it but it will also look better once all together.

 

The control wires here are hung a bit on the elevator rod, but thats only because the fuse frame need a little squeze, so get it where Sir Peter intended it to go, but once done the rudder control cables become much more free looking and natural. Nothing eveve remotely perfect here but with the machine gun and seat and what not to go in, as well as this being my first rigged WWI build, im cutting my self slack on this one too! –

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Im gonna catch some zzzzzzzzzzzs, but when I get up, im going RIGHT back at it as I have tonight off from work as well, and I aim to make the most of it.

 

Later guys,

[Guest Peterpools]

Brian

To these old eyes, the DH2 looks spectacular.

Peter

[Out2gtcha]

Thanks guys. More work progressed last night.................

 

I started off by getting the main fuselage floor glued to the wooded frame, and leveled out.

I then rigged the rear of the fuselage per Sir Peters instructions –

 

 

 

 

 

Next, I spent some time finishing up the seat. The pad is a mixture of MM leather with a drop of red, with TMP mud and some soot, then cleared with MM flat clear, and profusely buffed until it was a little bit shiny like worn smooth leather.

 

There are a couple of cockpit details I know aren’t accurate, but I added them anyway, as I thought it looked cool. Frame done, seat on, all control cables and instruments added –

 

 

 

I then actually and amazingly got the fuse buttoned up and together. Normally this is a more momentous occasion, the the DH-2s fuselage is pretty freeking small; but went together like a dream. Im just missing the front hood/fairing, and the the (pre) shading on the fuselage, which Ill tackle next weekend –

 

 

 

I spend lord knows how many hrs taping the wing/flying surface mid shading off, but it was worth it in the end, as I have decided to go with the PC.10 uppers and CDL lower, so its off to mid shade the lower wing sections –

 

 

 

I then very roughly for shadow effect, shot the whole thing with a HIGHLY diluted Tamiya smoke –

 

 

 

This was just kinda slapped on, as it is intended for only shadow effect. This will be cleaned up and smoothed up a bit later after its hardened up. After the smoke has hardened up and smoothed out, this will all be coved by an also HIGHLY thinned layer of CDL to blend the shading.

 

You can see the immediate effect here, which also will get cleaned up slightly before receiving its next thin CDL layer –