TaffyMan Posted September 3, 2012 Share Posted September 3, 2012 To Cool for words Peter. Love this loads! A true learning and inspiring experience – thanks for taking the time to show how to do it!!!!! The instrument bezels look fantastic are you making these in 1/24 scale as well – Just might help with one of my future Hurricane projects. Happy Days - Taff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scvrobeson Posted September 3, 2012 Share Posted September 3, 2012 I don't know if someone else answered this question, but Future does work great as a glue. I use it a lot when doing photo-etch stuff, because it's very strong, but gives a long time to get everything positioned. And with instrument panels, you can apply a layer over everything to bond it all together, and also makes the lenses extremely shiny and clear. And once it's dry you can mask the lenses and flat-coat the rest of the panel if it is required. I hope that helps. This build is going so well. it's amazing what some people can do with such basic kits and a ton of talent and scratch-building skills Matt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
airscale Posted September 4, 2012 Author Share Posted September 4, 2012 evening all little post from me to thank my friends here and ask some more questions... The instrument bezels look fantastic are you making these in 1/24 scale as well? Thanks Taff, I see your Fury is really coming together - top class stuff. As for 1/24 instrument PE, both sets (Bezels & Details) will be available in limited numbers in 1/24 - airscale wouldn't have started if I could have found what I wanted in the Gentlemens Scale so I simply have to..... I don't know if someone else answered this question, but Future does work great as a glue. I use it a lot when doing photo-etch stuff, because it's very strong, but gives a long time to get everything positioned. And with instrument panels, you can apply a layer over everything to bond it all together, and also makes the lenses extremely shiny and clear. And once it's dry you can mask the lenses and flat-coat the rest of the panel if it is required Matt Matt - this is the kind of advice that makes this place the best in the world - thank you I can now plan what to do and how to do it. The problem was getting hold of Future, but I have a good friend in one of our retailers who has offered up a bottle of the old stuff so I couldn't be happier and should be able to get on with it soon Anyways onto what's been going on... I broke the airbrush out again, and nearly broke it over the bench later on with frustration. I have always been a builder and struggled with painting but now I am getting peed off. I only seem able to get a rough finish no matter what I try (and periodic big splatters) - I have tried thinning, low pressure, high pressure, moving away, moving in, thin coats, thick coats but the result always seems to be the same. I don;t have much experience and I guess using parts I have laboured over isn't a good place to start. If anyone thinks 'ding, I know why that happens', please let me know.... ...so, I coated some of the cockpit parts so I can start detail painting the consoles (at least I am a bit better at that...) I also gave the unfinished panel a quick blast to get it ready for glazing - while I am happy with it, it will look better once the glass is clean and 'Futured' - looking at the state of the paint though I am tempted to strip it somehow... the glass is only dry fitted, as are the panel and backplate - I expect the whole lot to be neater when permanently fixed... I am off to watch a few airbrush tutorials on Phil's Flory Models site to sort my skills out back soon... Peter Landrotten Highlander 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
A.Wolf Grant Posted September 4, 2012 Share Posted September 4, 2012 This is truly inspirational stuff and way beyond the call ! The instrument bezels look absolutely fantastic Peter, they'll be a tremendous addition to the modellers' arsenal and, even without seeing them in the flesh, I can tell they'll be a huge success. Congratulations. Grant. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Peterpools Posted September 4, 2012 Share Posted September 4, 2012 Peter Part of the key for figuring out what is causing the problem, is knowing what you are doing. Paint: Brand and type Thinner: Brand and type Airbrush and needle On the Flory forum,do a search for paint tutorials by Hans Pennink,as his airbrush techniques are the way to go. Lets us know,if we can be of any help. Peter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
airscale Posted September 5, 2012 Author Share Posted September 5, 2012 Thanks Peter - should have mentioned what I use.. It's Tamiya Nato Black and Tamiya X20A thinner, and I have a Harder & Steenbeck Evolution 2 airbrush will look for Hans' tutorials - I am part way through part one, step one lol Peter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Peterpools Posted September 5, 2012 Share Posted September 5, 2012 Peter There is your answer! Tamiya acrylic paint thinned with X-20A, will not give you a smooth painted surface. The pigment in acrylics is much larger then enamels and is a prime cause of the rough finish. If you prefer shooting Tamiya acrylics, best method for smoothing out the finish: Use Tamiya thinner X-20A with the yellow cap, not the white cap. The yellow cap X-20A is Tamiya Lacquer thinner and breaks down the paint pigment much finner then the standard X-20A. Thin the paint to a mix of 60/40 - thinner to paint. Lower your air pressure to 10-12 psi and work about two inches from the model surface, keeping the air brush square to the model surface. I experienced the same problems as you and didn't want to rely on Future or some other gloss finish to smooth things out. While this system reduced the grainy effect quite a bit, I still wasn't satisfied and switched back to Model Master enamels. The finish is so much smoother now. The Tamiya acrylic procedure was emailed to me by Hans and is a big improvement. Hope this helps. Let me know if I can be of any further help. Peter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_Kevin Posted September 5, 2012 Share Posted September 5, 2012 If you can't get hold of the Tamiya lacquer thinners, Mr Color Thinner (levelling or otherwise) works just as well, as it appears to be nearly the same stuff. Tamiya acrylics are exceedingly matt/flat, and tend to have a slight rough or grainy finish out of the jar. You could try adding a drop or two of Tamiya Clear Gloss to smooth things out a bit. Kev Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wolf Buddee Posted September 5, 2012 Share Posted September 5, 2012 Great stuff Peter. I have to admit I've not run in to the troubles you've had spraying Tamiya paint. I have used both the X-20A thinner with the white cap and I've also used generic lacquer thinner with fairly good results. I do thin the paint quite thin though and build up the coats gradually to get the best results. One thing I do is paint in the bezels themselves with Tamiya semi-gloss black to make them stand out from the rest of the IP. You can punch out discs of masking tape to protect the instrument faces and use a good 5/0 or 10/0 spotter brush to pick out the bezels. I usually do this before offering up the instrument faces from behind but it can still be done fairly easily at this point. If you're going to scribe the separation lines for the individual panels in the IP assembly, you'll want to do that before you go too much further. The more you add at this point the harder it will be to do it later. She's lookin' fantastic so far Peter! Cheers, Wolf Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
airscale Posted September 9, 2012 Author Share Posted September 9, 2012 thanks for the tips guys - have been working through the airbrush problems... having read and watched quite a bit about it, my conclusion was the paint is too thick and I was too far away and I need loads more practice! I will try thinning with the yellow cap thinners too when I get some and see how I get on with a few donor kits to try out on.. meanwhile on the Fury... I stripped the paint off with oven cleaner, the panel and the consoles were the worst - they looked like they had been flocked with felt.. after a re-spray I puched out the instrument glass, polished each one and placed them in their apertures. After carefully dipping into Future (Klear) I wicked away the excess and left to set ...then it was time to detail the consoles, one is nearly complete (though missing a couple of levers from the paint strip) and has some of our placards where appropriate. With everything pretty much being black apart from a few bakelite knobs, it was a challenge to create any contrast... finished off with a bit of dry brushing and a few spot washes... stuck in place with a bit of white tack to see what it looked like... lots more to do on the cockpit before I am happy, but then it is my favourite part ...in fact I once thought I would build the entire Airfix 1/24 range as just cockpit sections to demo our products at shows etc. :mental: (...can't wait for Telford) until next time Peter Landrotten Highlander 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Peterpools Posted September 9, 2012 Share Posted September 9, 2012 Peter What a comeback. Looks perfect. Peter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wolf Buddee Posted September 10, 2012 Share Posted September 10, 2012 Absolutely wonderful Peter! This one is turning out to be a real gem. Impeccable work all the way! Cheers, Wolf Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
airscale Posted September 11, 2012 Author Share Posted September 11, 2012 evening everyone just another little window into the Fury world tonight as I have been pretty frantic getting ready for the launch of our 1/32 PE sets next week (and 1/24 two weeks after) so time has been a little tight to get anything done.. I set about the second console, adding our dials and placards - the tiny ones were bedded down with micro sol and a little light dry brushing overall to bring out some of the detail. I am not too happy with the bakelite trim wheel, the weathering is too coarse so will do that again... ...the bare patch at bottom left is below the trottle quadrant on the cockpit sidewall and as far as I can tell doesn't have anything much going on... ...again, I used a bit of white tack to dry fit the parts to see what it all looked like together. The panel needs detailing next... thats all folks, until next time Peter Landrotten Highlander 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martinnfb Posted September 12, 2012 Share Posted September 12, 2012 Incredible build Peter, I've been drooling non stop ever since you started this outstanding AOOB journey. M. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Peterpools Posted September 12, 2012 Share Posted September 12, 2012 Peter Just keep getting better and better with each update. Keep 'em coming Peter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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