Hobbydecal Posted January 8, 2005 Share Posted January 8, 2005 Nice job BlackDog Now is winter so your work room may be cold. The addhesive on the film would be harden under 15¡ÆC. So the recommended temperature for transferring is 18 to 30¡ÆC. And let me know your failed marking numbers. After service markings are available even one mark. Cheers! From Kim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlackDog Posted January 8, 2005 Author Share Posted January 8, 2005 Nice job BlackDogNow is winter so your work room may be cold. The addhesive on the film would be harden under 15¡ÆC. So the recommended temperature for transferring is 18 to 30¡ÆC. And let me know your failed marking numbers. After service markings are available even one mark. Cheers! From Kim Hi Kim, thanks for your quick proposal for help... No, my work room is above 18°C, so it's probably not the problem. I suspect that my paint layer is quite fragile (I usually spray very thin layers in mist), that could be the problem. I have not too many problems with small markings, but far more with large ones, like the 'do not walk' dotted lines on this Dora... Maybe it would work better above a protective clear coat, but I am trying to put as few layers as possible (help to keep rivet lines visible). Another question : I guess that such transferts need a protection layer (clear flat or gloss varnish) before working on any oil wash ? And do not bother yet about replacement marks, until now there is nothing totally destroyed. Chris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hobbydecal Posted January 8, 2005 Share Posted January 8, 2005 Another question : I guess that such transferts need a protection layer (clear flat or gloss varnish) before working on any oil wash ? And do not bother yet about replacement marks, until now there is nothing totally destroyed. The ink of colors are durable to any Varnish. The problem is the addhesive under inks. This is soluble in above enamel (laquor) thinners. 1-2 times slight clear vanish is recommended but some my Korean friends said light oil wash can be done without problem. This dry transfer medium may be new one to almost modellers. So you should do some tests yourself to adjust as yours and to be familiar to yourself as you had done in Water sliding decals. Happy transferring Frm Kim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlackDog Posted January 8, 2005 Author Share Posted January 8, 2005 After talking for 2 hours with several people in my favorite hobby shop this morning (and getting as many different advices as number of people there ) I did choose to try a new method of weathering, different from my work on previous planes. So : - I do not put a protective clear coat (Future) before wash - I will put oil wash directly on the acrylic paint, first rubbed with MicroMesh 8000. Why ? mostly to reduce number of paints/varnish layers. I want to keep my rivet lines and it could be difficult after Future+deals+Future+wash+flat coat. As I will not put many decals on this bird (most markings are either painted with masks or dry transfers from HobbyDecal), one of the main reason for using a Future coat is no more needed. The dark brown oil wash is carefully put into panel lines. Excess wash is quickly removed with a soft cloth, dampened in thinner if needed. Here is an intermediary result on left wing (all other parts of plane as not received any wash for now). Structural lines and doors lines are quite visible with the wash, and rivets lines are still visible (although it is not easy on this picture). NB1 : Fuselage is not "oil washed" yet NB2 : I opened and started painting small fuel tank refueling trap door behind cockpit. NB3 : Chipped paint on wing root is done by scratching paint with a scalpel blade, showing underneath silver paint. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Hannover - Germany Posted January 9, 2005 Share Posted January 9, 2005 Very cool mate!! Why do you don´t use the decals? Chris Hannover Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_Ray Posted January 9, 2005 Share Posted January 9, 2005 Looking good, Black Dog! One tip: Many Armor builders abhor clear gloss coats and will do anything not to put gloss on their models (one of the reasons they like to use rub-on transfers). One thing I learned from them about washes on matte coats: if you hit the model first with the thinner, then spot-place where you want the color, the wash will flow to the panel lines and details almost like the model was glossed! Also, I use Turpenoid, which is a synthetic turpentine mostly used by artist to wash their brushes or other 'less important' uses. It is not as harsh as turpentine and doesn't harm the paint as easily. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_Ray Posted January 9, 2005 Share Posted January 9, 2005 I have found that some dry transfers will start to run with oil-Turpenoid washes, though some don't appear to. Probably is better to hit with light protective coat. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlackDog Posted January 9, 2005 Author Share Posted January 9, 2005 Hi Ray, Kim, I am using for thinner a product called 'odorless White Spirit' (it seems it is know as 'Stoddard solvent' in the US), which is a great oil thinner, and is not aggressive on acrylic paint or transfers. No problem so far. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlackDog Posted January 10, 2005 Author Share Posted January 10, 2005 I did choose to minimize as much as possible the layers of paints and clear coats, so to keep initial color look and protect fine rivets engraving. So to avoid clear gloss/decals/clear gloss, I am painting every marking I can with Montext masks. I was a bit cautious about using them for the '1 Black' plane number as the mask given for masking the white outline is amazingly narrow and fragile. But as told, wanting NOT to use decals if possible, I finally tried it. The picture below is work in progress on the right side '1 Black' : white color has already been applied on the whole '1' shape, and I just put the very small outline mask above the 1 shape, so to protect the white outline paint while painting the black center... I always miss an heartbeat when I am removing masks... This time, perfect result, no glitch : The number '1' is slightly overlapping the fuselage rear tank trap door (on the white outline), like on real plane. The sole decal applied so far is the wavy symbol of 4./JG26 (I have no mask for this). To avoid using an underlying gloss coat, I did rub the surface with MicroMesh 12000 until it was flat and glossy like glass. Another heartbeat missed when removing the tank trap door (scratchbuild with plasticard), that part was tied to fuselage since beginning of paint tasks, 5 weeks ago. No problem again, I am lucky : I will tie this trap in open position as a last step. Note : the fuselage side is not weathered yet. One can see (slightly) that the black from the cross national insignia is lighter (faded) than the one of the '1 Black' or the RV band. This is intended : Plane is seen in March 45. This cross was painted in August or September 44 after factory delivery and was left like this since then (that explains why this plane has such a cross type, most Doras during last months of war were sporting new type of black outlined cross with no white). However, the '1 Black' and RV band in front of the tail were painted at end o February 45, after switching to JG26. That is why th black is quite new. This difference is appearing well on one of the two known pictures of this plane, taken in March 45. I will slightly accentuate the faded look of the cross later with pastels. On anoher subject : the picture below allow to see the rivets engraving : those rivet lines have been enhanced with graphite pencil powder, rubbed on wing with a soft clean paper tissue. The powder only remained inside the rivets... Note : this wing is not fully weathered yet : I still need to put some oil wash in structural lines and to enhance chipped paint on 2 or 3 spots. Last, view from belly, where I did remove the flaps and undercarriage maskings : All the weathering still need to be done on this belly... That's all for today ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zactoman Posted January 10, 2005 Share Posted January 10, 2005 Hi Blackdog(Chris), It's great watching your progress on this bird. You're doing a spectacular job! Thanks for the inspiration... Chris (a.k.a. Zactoman) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anthony in NZ Posted January 10, 2005 Share Posted January 10, 2005 As I have said in the past, your work is stunning and inspirinational, awesome work mate!!! Look forward to the next installment.........no pressure though! Anthony Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChrisS Posted January 10, 2005 Share Posted January 10, 2005 Great job. Your airbrush style is very controlled and precise, and the results you get are quite clean. You may have mentionind it in another thread, but what PSI do you use, and how do you thin your paints? Thanks~ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlackDog Posted January 10, 2005 Author Share Posted January 10, 2005 Hi Chris(x2), Anthony, Thanks for your comments ! Your airbrush style is very controlled and precise, and the results you get are quite clean. You may have mentionind it in another thread, but what PSI do you use, and how do you thin your paints? My paints are mostly Gunze acrylics on this plane, except for RLM76 (lightblue) which is Aircraft Colors. AircraftColors is not thinned at all. Other paints (Gunze) are thinned with pharmaceutical alcohol (yopu can use isopropyl alcohol), with around 60% paint 40% thinner for standard paint, and around 18-20 psi. For special effects (mottling, post-shading of panels, etc), thinner ratio could go as high as 90% and psi as low as 10-12. Hope it answers your question Chris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest steve gallacci Posted January 11, 2005 Share Posted January 11, 2005 Hi. The work so far has been absolutely beautiful - but-... Why didn't you deal with the prominate gap where the blower intake fits to the fuselage? Considering how tight the rest of the job is going, the lapse there is puzzling. It is not like there is a joint or panel line on the orginal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest steve gallacci Posted January 11, 2005 Share Posted January 11, 2005 Oh dear, I looked further and you also didn't get the kit joint line at the wing leading edge to fuselage fillet. The original had that area as a single section of metal, without the line in the kit assembly. I mention these not to be a nit-picker, but a, hopefully, correctable oversight suggestion. To leave basic model building 101 details uncovered totally kills an otherwise brilliant job. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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