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P-40F/L Conversion Update


Bill M.

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Well, the basic master pattern for the P-40F/L nose conversion is now completed. All that is now required is the final detailing of the pattern and fine tuning/finishing. The pictures below show the parts both unpainted and with an initial coat of paint to see where areas may need some more attention (the upper cowl does, but I expected that). The teardrop shaped exhaust scallop and the cowl outlet flap actuating rod and arm will be replicated as two items for the final conversion kit (I have already suggested to Grey Matter Figures that all delicate items would be best produced in white metal, as it will be more malleable and robust than resin and they require slight manipulation in order for them to be installed in any case - Just like the full size P-40F/L, they are 'handed').

 

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Outstanding Derek!

 

John :lol:

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Thank you all for your very kind words :D

 

A quick rectification 101: With this particular type of master pattern (one that was originally made by Vasko Barbic as a conversion of a Revell P-40E nose), it will inevitably contain some substrate flaws underneath the plastic. If I were to simply try to fill these with normal model filler, the underlying problem would still persist. This would be very bad news when it came to moulding the pattern as the heat and vacuum required during the curing of the mould would cause these flaws to open and wreck the surface finish of the pattern in the process. So, we need to use a non-shrinking filler that will not soften the plastic. This is how I have gone about it (this is not my idea, but one I have picked up from other modellers):

 

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First, we need to gouge out any loose or soft areas of plastic from the component - this may look unsightly, but is absolutely necessary or you will have to do it all again. You can see where I have done this with all flaws and pin holes. I have also ringed them with a pencil to ensure that I do not miss any.

 

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The filler is a mixture of talcum powder and cyanoacrylate (super) glue. The mixture can be controlled very easily by adding more talcum powder to the glue until you have a consistency that you are happy with. This is applied to all of the flawed areas, applying slightly more than you need to cover the flaws. Once fully hardened (which is only minutes - half an hour tops - it is ready for sanding. The beauty of this mixture is that it is not as hard as straight super glue when cured, so is very easy to sand and it sands very smooth with no shrinkage (it smells pretty nice as well - even your wife would find the smell of this particular filler acceptable! :frantic:).

 

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The components after sanding. The nose nacelle/cowl top and bottom sections required some amount of filling (mostly the top section). I also had to do some very minor sanding on the outlet duct and intake sections.

 

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Much better! The results after a quick respray. Next job will be marking up for scribing detail work and final finishing.

 

Derek

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:lol:

You must be very proud at this moment, D!

When will you be offering the propeller?

Eli

 

Hi Eli,

 

We'er not quite there yet (I don't think that I have ever had the time to be proud! :lol:). I had only just started on the propeller hub before I had to stop work on it to get this current master pattern completed. I still have a couple of other master patterns to complete for other people, but I shall pick up the P-40 propeller as time allows between these other two patterns. I should be in a better position to get more of my own pattern work started towards the end of this year.

 

Thanks for asking

 

Derek

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Thanks for the response.

A question now arises, I guess the conversion will be ready before you make the right prop.

Which one should we use when building the P-40F/L?

Eli

Hello Eli,

The Hasegawa kit only comes with one prop-- which is the narrow blade prop. As I understand it, the narrow blade prop is correct for the short-tailed P-40F and the early long-tailed P-40F. After that, the wide blade prop took over. Thus, the narrow blade kit prop would be right for "Miss Fury" off your decal sheet and might be right for "Madkot" and "Sweet Bets". The wide prop is correct for "Duchess of Durham IV", being a P-40L. I don't know why Hasegawa did not include a wide blade prop (or tires with tread for that matter) in its kits as it is clearly correct for the later Warhawks. Hopefully Derek will remedy this oversight. I think he will sell quite a few of these if he makes them as modelers of P-40M's and N's will also be needing them.

Bill M.

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Derek,

One more thing that I just noticed about the conversion. It looks like there are some thoughtful engineering features to allow the modeller to fit this all together-- things like cleverly located tabs, etc. It surely looks like this conversion is going to be a well-received winner.

Bill M.

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Hello Eli,

The Hasegawa kit only comes with one prop-- which is the narrow blade prop. As I understand it, the narrow blade prop is correct for the short-tailed P-40F and the early long-tailed P-40F. After that, the wide blade prop took over. Thus, the narrow blade kit prop would be right for "Miss Fury" off your decal sheet and might be right for "Madkot" and "Sweet Bets". The wide prop is correct for "Duchess of Durham IV", being a P-40L. I don't know why Hasegawa did not include a wide blade prop (or tires with tread for that matter) in its kits as it is clearly correct for the later Warhawks. Hopefully Derek will remedy this oversight. I think he will sell quite a few of these if he makes them as modelers of P-40M's and N's will also be needing them.

Bill M.

 

Gracias, bro!

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