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Hasegawa Fw 190A-8


Haggis

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Hi fellas, this one does not qualify for the GB as I've just spent God knows how long doing the rivets with the MDC tool! :blink: I've got the Eagle Editions gun cowl and prop set plus a new seat from Cutting Edge.

 

Hopefully I'll have some more photos soon, the cockpit is nearly finished, as is the engine. Once the riveting is done these things just fall together.

 

P1040643Rivets1.jpg

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Hi chaps, fit bird ain't she!

 

Thanks fellas, I feel a bit cross eyed from the riveting, I did a 109 at the same time!!!!!!

 

Jerry, she'll be in the markings of an abandoned aircraft photographed at Gatow in 1946. White 11 Werk Nr 070638. I found a photo in Classic Publications Luftwaffe Colours Vol 5 Sect 2, War in the East 1944-45 (P. 187). I wanted a late war camouflaged aeroplane but I'm not keen on the bubble canopies as to display the canopy open the aerial wire has to droop and I don't like the look of that. This one, although the glass is missing has the earlier head armour. I know that some of the D-9's had the earlier canopy but without the inertial reel but I thought I'd have a punt and do one with the tensioner. If you have any more photos of this, or a similar aircraft I'd love to see them.

 

I'm going to use a mix of Montex masks and left over Eagle Cals (for the stencils) to make up the markings.

 

The cockpit is done, I painted it with Gunze RLM 66 and weathered it with a wash of Tamiya smoke and Humbrol enamels for the dry brushing. The paint chips are done with Citadel acrylics dabbed on with a sponge. The glass in the instruments is watch makers cement, this dries crystal clear and rock hard, it won't dissolve like PVA based stuff either, something which has happened whilst doing the prepainting wash or wet sanding too many times!

 

P1040661Cockpit1email.jpg

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Jamie, I have a question.

 

Why do you (and everyone else I have seen) do the rivets before assembly? I am sure there is a reason, since that approach seems universal. But to me not having done it, intuitively it seems like after assembly and seam filling it would be easier to do it then..... That way none of the rivets would get sanded off, and you could easily make them line up on each half.

 

What am I missing?

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Jamie, I have a question.

 

Why do you (and everyone else I have seen) do the rivets before assembly? I am sure there is a reason, since that approach seems universal. But to me not having done it, intuitively it seems like after assembly and seam filling it would be easier to do it then..... That way none of the rivets would get sanded off, and you could easily make them line up on each half.

 

What am I missing?

 

While I've never rivetted a kit myself, I have rescribed a few now, and I reckon the processes (and difficulties) would be similar. It is far, far easier to scribe unassembled components than an assembled kit. If you can lay a component flat on the workbench it becomes much easier to get right, and I can't imagine rivetting being terribly different. I'm sure the riveteers among us can chip in with their experiences too.

 

Kev

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Hi Jamie,

 

Great build! May I ask what material you used for the seat belts? I think convincing seatbelts are really the touch of realism most kits need... so far I have not convinced myself with my work! Your seatbelts (as well as the rest of your build) look fantastic!

 

Gary V.

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Kevin is absolutely correct, it's much easier with flat parts as you need te use a fair amount of pressure for each rivet, plus it minimises the nooks and crannies.

 

Gary, the seat belts are moulded into the resin seat. If you are after some seat belts I cannot praise Radu Brinzan's enough, they are made from etched metal (buckles) and pre cut and coloured paper (straps). They look fantastic.

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