LSP_Kevin Posted October 27, 2009 Author Share Posted October 27, 2009 OK, some more photos as promised. Just a couple of close-ups of some of the stencils. Remember, these are dry transfers! One thing I really like in this photo is that, despite laying the red border along the wing root after I'd done all the chipping, the nature of the dry transfers allowed me to chip away at them in a pattern that matched the underlying paint chips. It came out pretty convincingly I thought. Note too the small black arrow just beneath the forward part of the hinomaru. Those tiny stencils are quite a challenge to apply! I think they'll look pretty good under a couple of clear coats. I've got some boring paint touch-ups to do next, so there won't be any new shots until I can get the gloss coat and decals on. Kev Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spacewolf Posted October 27, 2009 Share Posted October 27, 2009 Looks amazing Kev, going to be well worth the blood, sweat 'n tears. I'm taking notes ! Where do you get those transfers ? cheers Vaughn Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_Kevin Posted October 27, 2009 Author Share Posted October 27, 2009 Where do you get those transfers ? Hobbydecal! Here's a link to their 1/32 Zero set: http://www.hobbydecal.com/detail.cgi?number=st32011v2 Keep in mind that they're listing this set as "Version 2" on their site, whereas the set I have is labelled "Version 1". The layout is different, but the new set is also lacking the black version of the starboard wing root stencil (the oblong one). Anyway, well worth a poke around on the Hobbydecal website, as they have some really good stuff! I just wish I could get the hang of applying them better. Kev Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_Ron Posted October 27, 2009 Share Posted October 27, 2009 Very nice, You mention it's time for a gloss coat and decals? What's left to decal? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_Kevin Posted October 27, 2009 Author Share Posted October 27, 2009 I might suggest that you try using a wooden cuticle pusher as a burnishing tool. They are made of a nice hard wood with just a little give in them. It might pay to gently round off the cuticle pushers ends with a bit of sandpaper as them come with a neat sharp edge from the package. Although that edge can come in handy for chipping paint with . Thanks for the great tip Dan! Is Priceline the go here? You mention it's time for a gloss coat and decals? What's left to decal? Actually, just the tail number! I've also got to decide if I'm unhappy enough with the crooked data plate on the fuselage to replace it...dunno. It'll be too late once the clear coats go down! Kev Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_Matt Posted October 28, 2009 Share Posted October 28, 2009 Hey man, you've stuck to it with this one. I think I'm learning vicariously. Nice one Kev. Cheers Matty Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Azgaron Posted October 28, 2009 Share Posted October 28, 2009 Looking good Kev! Dry transfers looks good! Where do you get such things? Cheers, Håkan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_Kevin Posted October 29, 2009 Author Share Posted October 29, 2009 Inching forward, bit by bit. The Zero's had a gloss coat, and it was my first time airbrushing Future. I'd have to say that spraying it offers no real advantage over brushing it on, but is a whole lot messier! I still had problems with pools, runs and orange peels, but not to the same extent as I've had in the past with Shine Magic. I've also learned that I really must wash my models (in the personal hygiene sense) before I put any clear coats on! Fingerprints, fingerprints... Oh, it's had a panel line wash though: Unfortunately the camera flash has obliterated most signs of the wash. Next up is some post-shading to add depth and generally dirty it up a bit. Despite all the chipping, I still think it looks too clean. I can't believe this thing is finally coming to an end! Kev Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spacewolf Posted October 29, 2009 Share Posted October 29, 2009 Hey Kev Looking good ! I've never done the future thing myself but I suppose I will be. Neat to know you can brush it on. I know what you mean about the lighting making the washes vanish... frustrating isn't it ? Almost to the finish line, keep up the amazing work ! Cheers Vaughn Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_Ron Posted October 29, 2009 Share Posted October 29, 2009 Quite a build Kevin, looks really good. I've never sprayed future, is it hard to do? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_Kevin Posted October 29, 2009 Author Share Posted October 29, 2009 Quite a build Kevin, looks really good. I've never sprayed future, is it hard to do? No, pretty easy, but I suspect quite low air pressure is required for the initial mist coat. My compressor won't let me go below 20PSI, and I think this might be a tad too much. When I did the first coat, I added some Windex to it, as I'd read that this helps break up the surface tension and make it flow and settle better. It didn't seem to have any effect one way or the other, so I didn't bother with the second coat and it came out just as well. If I weren't going for a beat up finish, I would have been tempted to give it another coat or two. As I said though, I don't think spraying it is noticeably superior to brushing it. I haven't used my airbrush since, so I hope I managed to clean it out properly! Kev Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_Kevin Posted October 31, 2009 Author Share Posted October 31, 2009 Well, the airbrush survived the Future experiment without undue incident, so progress continues. I can actually see the finish line now, and I'm hoping to bring it over the line sometime this weekend. It helps that I've got an extra two days off. Post-shading, flat coat and a few more bits added: As usual, my harsh overhead lighting, and ever harsher flash, have conspired to all but obliterate the subtleties in the finish, but it looks pretty good in the flesh I think. Once the cowl flap assembly is strong enough, I'll attach the engine and cowling, and give it another flat coat. The only tricky bits of the build to go involve fashioning a cover and chain for the open fuselage hatch, and dealing with the tail wheel. The tail wheel will indeed be tricky; I need to attach the resin wheel to the completed housing thingy, and then attach that assembly (plus retraction piston) to the rear attachment point. How I'm going to make all this strong enough to support the model, I have no idea! Kev Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ruzlkampf Posted October 31, 2009 Share Posted October 31, 2009 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
big matt Posted October 31, 2009 Share Posted October 31, 2009 That is really looking great Kevin! The contrast of color is really nice. The exhaust looks awesome against the green and the fabric surfaces are very subtle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_Kevin Posted October 31, 2009 Author Share Posted October 31, 2009 Well, I'm so close now I can smell it! Engine fitted: Up on her feet: I must have had some residue on the model from the salt treatment, as it seems to have reacted with one of the subsequent coats. I'm guessing the flat coat, since the problem didn't materialise until then. You can see what looks like light-coloured blotches on the cowling, and the port wing too. The flash highlights it rather prominently. Fortunately it's not that noticeable in the flesh, and from some angles you can't see it at all. Weird. However, I'll know for next time to clean all traces of the salt off the model much more thoroughly! A shot from the other side: Close ups of the tail wheel arrangement: I think it's inevitable that this tail wheel assembly will break one day - it's all just CA'd butt joints. I've got some paint touch-ups to do there too. I'm not sure if the sleeve of the retraction piston should be black, or left as NM. I'm tempted to paint it black for interest's sake. Anybody know for sure? Just a couple of hours worth of fiddly bits, plus making the hatch cover, and I'm there! Kev Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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