spacewolf Posted October 13, 2009 Share Posted October 13, 2009 Hey Kev Great work ! I'm taking notes for my Zero build I doubt I'll get up to your level of craftsmanship, but I'll be trying ! Cheers Vaughn Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_Kevin Posted October 13, 2009 Author Share Posted October 13, 2009 I doubt I'll get up to your level of craftsmanship, but I'll be trying ! Judging by your work on that 109 mate, I'd say you'll be fine! If I can do it, anyone can... Here's a photo I forgot to include in that last post. It's the CMK resin parts for the removed tail: I had a bit of trouble removing them from their respective casting blocks, and damaged one a bit. In attempting to repair it with CA, I further damaged the paint work, so some remedial work is in order. Kev Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_Kevin Posted October 14, 2009 Author Share Posted October 14, 2009 Slightly gratuitous update this time, but I've finished the second landing gear and did a temporary install: Overall I'm really happy with how they turned out - particularly the angles involved, which look pretty close to right to my eye. However, from below there are noticeable gaps where the Doyusha struts meet the CMK mounting blocks, as I just couldn't get those angles right. You can't win them all I guess. Kev Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
perry Posted October 14, 2009 Share Posted October 14, 2009 Great work so far Kev! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_Ron Posted October 14, 2009 Share Posted October 14, 2009 Looks good to me! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_Kevin Posted October 17, 2009 Author Share Posted October 17, 2009 Not much progress at the moment, but I did manage to finish the cowl flaps (another move I now regret!): Unfortunately they don't conform properly to the shape of the cowling itself, so there will be noticeable gaps top and bottom. At this stage I plan to make this bird pretty heavily weathered, mostly to distract attention from all the little problems it has developed! Once I've got the cowl fully scribed, I can finally begin the paint work proper. Yay! More soon. Kev Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spacewolf Posted October 17, 2009 Share Posted October 17, 2009 Hey Kev Someone once said "a scale model is never finished, you just pick a point where you stop working on it".. amazing work there man, just amazing ! Cheers Vaughn Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_Kevin Posted October 17, 2009 Author Share Posted October 17, 2009 Thanks Vaughn, and you're right - I really just have to decide when enough is enough with this one, and pull it across the line. I think in terms of construction and scratch building, I've learned all I can from this build, so there'll be no going back to fix problems or gnarly bits. I'd much prefer to take what I've learned and do better on the next kit. Two years is enough! Besides, I'm keen to get some paint on this one. I thought I might describe in some detail how I'm going about scribing the cowling release latches and associated panel lines. I have a love/hate relationship with scribing, and I'd love to be better at it. I've moved beyond the "I suck" stage, but I'm not quite yet producing the results I'd like. So, don't take this as expert advice! I just figured that my methods might help demystify the process a bit, and encourage some of you to try it on an old kit. The main challenge with this particular task is coming up with a usable template to produce the latches with. I pulled out the plans I scaled up from the Modelmania book and taped a thin piece of scrap styrene sheet over them: I could see through the styrene just enough to position a scribing template over it to draw a basic shape. I marked the horizontal mid-point and traced the top half, then turned the template over and traced the bottom half. You can see from the photo that the template I used is much longer than the shape I needed, so just use the outline on the drawing as a guide for where to stop the line. Next step was to cut the template out. For this I used a needle in a pin vise, same as I do for much of my scribing: I used the same approach here as for drawing the shape in the first place: place the scribing template over the drawing, and scribe the top half of the shape, and then flip it over and do the bottom. There's no need to cut right through at this stage; just make enough of a cut so that the needle will follow it after you've removed the template. Make sure to tape the shape down so it doesn't move! Once it's done, trim the excess styrene away and clean up with cut-out with a needle file that has a curved surface (similar in shape to the cut-out itself, but flatter). Now, on to the model! I marked a datum line on the cowl based on the plans, using tape as a straight edge. Then I marked 4 vertical lines at the rough locations of the latches. This allows you to position the template roughly centered in the right location: Using the pin vise yet again, I simply scribe inside the template until I think the line is deep enough (better to go a bit too deep than not deep enough - the effects of primer and paint can soon disappear a line that's too shallow). A lick of Tamiya Extra Thin through the line and we're done: Hopefully this has been of some use to someone out there! I'm really not looking forward to doing the ones on the forward cowling though... I'll be back when they're all done. Kev Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spacewolf Posted October 17, 2009 Share Posted October 17, 2009 Great tutorial Kev, very clear and I concur with your statement that deeper is better. My scribing on my 109 has almost vanished under primer and paint. Hopefully a wash will bring them back. Cheers Vaughn Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_Kevin Posted October 17, 2009 Author Share Posted October 17, 2009 Well, here's the final result: Not perfect, but it should scrub up OK under some paint and weathering. I need to let the Tamiya cement do its stuff overnight and then it'll be ready for priming and painting tomorrow. Kev Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Azgaron Posted October 17, 2009 Share Posted October 17, 2009 Very nice work with the scribing Kev! Cheers, Håkan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
theseeker Posted October 17, 2009 Share Posted October 17, 2009 Very nice work Kev! Rocky Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_Ron Posted October 17, 2009 Share Posted October 17, 2009 That scribe work is excellent. I have a hard time with it as well so I can certainly appreciate when it works out looking good Ron Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_Kevin Posted October 17, 2009 Author Share Posted October 17, 2009 Thanks fellas. There are a couple of gnarly bits, and the port latches actually don't line up perfectly ( ), but one thing I've learned about rescribing is that it always looks better under a coat of paint! Kev Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_Kevin Posted October 18, 2009 Author Share Posted October 18, 2009 Now that all the scribing is finally complete, I've begun the main painting. This will take a while, as I'm planning to paint most of the major markings, as well as heavily weather the poor old girl (as if she hasn't had a hard enough time already!). So, the first step is to undercoat everything with Tamiya AS-12 Bare Metal Silver: I haven't bothered with the undersides, as I figure there'll be no need for extensive paint chipping there. I'm going to try out the salt method for the first time, so I hope I don't screw it up! One thing's for sure, if I ever build a NMF machine, I'll have to get my surfaces much more polished than on this build. Kev Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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