Jump to content

Search the Community

Showing results for tags 'hasegawa'.

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type


    • LSP Forum Info
    • LSP Discussion
    • Aviation Discussion & Research
    • General Discussion
    • Non-LSP Works
  • Sponsor Forums
    • Eagle Editions
    • Silver Wings
    • MDC
    • HobbyZone USA
    • Model Paint Solutions
    • KLP Publishing
    • Aerocraft Models
    • Synthetic Ordnance Works
    • B&B Resin Design
  • In The Works
    • Works in Progress
    • Group Builds
    • Ready for Inspection
  • Vendors and Traders
    • Vendors Board
    • Traders Board
  • Modelling Q&A
    • Construction & Scratch-building
    • Painting & Finishing
    • Decals & Masks
    • 3D Printing
    • Photography
    • Miscellaneous Modelling Q&A

Find results in...

Find results that contain...

Date Created

  • Start


Last Updated

  • Start


Filter by number of...


  • Start



Website URL




  1. In with this entry! Captain Hideaki Inayama was flying this striking Ki-44 in the 87th Sentai that was part of the 10th Hikodan of the Japanese home islands’ Eastern Defense Sector. He was credited with 5+ victories (Osprey’s Japanese Army Air Force Aces 1937-1945). This is the very nice Hasegawa kit, which is a nicely detailed yet simple kit. I intend to build essentially straight from the box. Some references: The aircraft in question: Stay tuned! Alain
  2. Hello everyone! Back with another project and first for 2023. This time I will be tackling Hasegawa's 1/32 scale kit of the P-47D Thunderbolt, bubbletop version, and will depict Glenn T. Eagleston's aircraft. I will also be using the following aftermarket sets: Avionix resin cockpit Quickboost resin engine Eduard resin wheels I'm aware of the kit's misalignment issues around the cowling and Rick Kranias kindly pointed me to his detailed post on how to fix this. Quickboost provides a separate mounting for the engine which requires some surgery on the kit. Has anyone used this set and, if yes, did it it fix the issue? Hasegawa's kits are known for their good quality and accurately shaped moldings and are usually sold at a reasonable cost by keeping some details simple such as the surface details. So, that's how I decided to start the project. By riveting the whole airframe with the help of a Rosie the Riveter wheel. The riveting pattern is by no means an exact replica of the real thing but rather it follows the general plan with the aim to make the whole fuselage look more busy.
  3. Hello all, First off, I want to say that I have been browsing here for a few months as I am dipping my toes into 1/32 scale. There are so many amazing resources, builds, and craftsmanship here. I decided to join in on the fun. I recently bought Hasegawa's FW-190D late version which has the larger TA-152 style tail. I could not resist the elegant look of the box art and decided to buy it. I think it is pretty well known that the molding and fit is pretty good so I will skip all the "box opening" sprue pictures. I know that it is well known that the kit has a few shape issues. As this is my first dive into 1/32, I am going to keep it relatively simple. I am just going to be building it as is with the exception of some scratch built detail, Eduard masks for the canopy, 1man army masks, and some aftermarket seatbelts. First off, one detail I decided to add are the cowl flap actuators. To do this I first cut off some very small pieces of styrene rod. Next, I drill out holes in the cowl flaps for the styrene rods to sit in. I then take some Tamiya Extra Thin and place some in the holes, then place in my piece of styrene. After every piece I did a quick dry test fit to make sure the rods sat where I wanted at a correct angle while the glue dried. I found a few had to be longer than others. And the final result! I think it adds some visual interest to the cowl area, especially in this scale. It may not be 100% accurate as far as the arms go, but I think it is better than having nothing there! Thanks, and more to come.
  4. Hello, all! I decided to actually post a WIP thread for this one, for a couple reasons. First, I was lazy on my Fw 190A builds and didn't really document everything in photos as I went. My computer is slow and it's a hassle sometimes, so I use that as an excuse, but I also need the inspiration of my fellow modelers and that's probably going to be even more important for this build, given the subject at hand. This is one of those planes that, as soon as I saw photos of it, I knew I had to do it. To top it off, I'm trying to round out my 1/32 Focke Wulf lineup and I don't currently have a Dora in the collection. I built the old Revell 1/32 kit when I was young and a few Trimaster/Pro Modeler and Tamiyas in 1/48 scale, but nothing else in the LSP department. I also thought about posting this build in the Air Superiority GB, but there is only about two months left and I'm not sure if I want to put that time crunch into this one (and I might decide to do a quick build of the N1K2 Shiden for the Navy GB, instead!), as I still have a ton of experimentation and testing to do with the late war Luftwaffe colors from a couple of different paint manufacturers. As I explained in my 190A-5 RFI thread, I've recently changed paints (both by brand and by going from mostly enamel to acrylic lacquers). So, I have acquired a good spread from MRP, AK Interactive and Gunze. If need be, I still have some Model Master enamels as backups, but judging by my recent experiences with the other brands I just named, I don't think I'll be needing the MM paints any longer! So, first off, here's what I have to work with, for starters. I will also be using some Montex masks from other sets and may purchase some more, if needed. My daughter also has a Cricut, so I may take a stab at making my own masks, but we'll see. I paid for half of it, so hopefully she can teach me how to run the thing! We have the Hasegawa kit, Eagle Cals decals, Aber barrels for the 13mm nose guns, HGW belts and bits, as well as Quickboost cowl front, late gun cover, exhausts and intake scoop. This kit also came with the small Dragon PE set, which may not be perfect, but I think it will still be an improvement, especially for the cockpit. Now, for the subject. This plane is typically labeled as "Black 3" and there is quite a bit of discussion on the net about what it is/isn't, specifically in how it was painted, but also on it's Werk Number. I know there are experts who have stated their opinions and their reasoning, which seems sound, for the most part. However, as these things usually go, there's certainly some room for interpretation and to add to that, it seems that more photos have become available more recently that answer some questions, but also create more, at the same time. My goal here isn't to determine the definitive final word on what any of that should be. I would rather use input and comparison by others to come up with something I'm comfortable with and in the end it has to fit the way I think it should look, being that I'll be the one looking at it everyday. I'm sure not everyone will agree on all the points of this build, but it's for the fun of it, the hobby and the discussion along the way. As stated, two points of concern for me are the Werk Number and the paint scheme. I'm seeing the number differently as some experts. Maybe it's just my eyes, or the photo I'm looking at to come to that conclusion. The same can be said for some of the colors. I also understand factory paint schemes and official orders, etc. Those aren't necessarily absolutes, however, especially when you're talking late war Luftwaffe. The other issue is that the available photos appear to be taken with several different cameras/film and in varying weather conditions. Many of the photos have a very washed out appearance and others quite dark. What appears to be a clear color line on the plane's belly in one photo (suggesting perhaps bare metal/RLM75 or similar combo) cannot be seen at all in other photos and may just be shadow. The biggest question, however, may be "Was it actually Black 3, or Blue 3?". According to one discussion I saw, the back of one of the veteran photos says "Blue 3". We'll get more into all of this later. For now, here are the pics I have (posting under fair use. I found them on the web and I'm not using this for any financial gain. Quite the opposite, actually!) Hoping to get started on the cockpit in the next day or so and will post pics as soon as I see some progress. Until then, let the discussion begin! John
  5. Got room for another Warhawk in this group build? This one is a training group P-40N with "Parrot head" art. No this has nothing to do with Jimmy Buffet...but I do like his music BTW. I will try to finish on time and to do that will have to try and avoid AMS disease... Dang it I'm a month late starting too.... Perhaps I will play some Jimmy Buffet while I build eh? "Cheeseburgers in paradise!....."
  6. This is a comparison of the new Revell Fw 190F-8 against the Hasegawa Fw 190F-8 so folks can decide which kit they prefer. Anything questionable was checked against photographs and other information to determine which kit (if either) got it right. Obviously, the full engine and separate control surfaces of the Revell kit are big plusses. And, the low price of the Revell kit in the US makes it hard to pass up. But, not everyone builds their models with everything hanging open. And, elsewhere in the world, the new Revell kit costs almost as much as the Hasegawa. This is not intended to be an in-depth scrutiny of either kit's accuracy. Rather, it is a direct comparison from a modeler's standpoint in an effort to clear up some of the myths, misconceptions and hype already associated with this new kit. Also, these were just the things that I was looking at. Your mileage may differ. If so, please feel free to document it and share it here. The Hasegawa kit's overall accuracy is widely reputed to be quite good, with the notable exceptions of prop, spinner and late upper fuselage gun cover shapes (along with some other, minor things). This is why the Hasegawa kit was chosen as the baseline for checking out the new Revell kit. Overall engineering, shapes and sizes are very similar between the two kits - almost to the point of the parts being interchangeable. Almost. The following images are being posted merely to illustrate the differences between the two kits so that the buyer can make up his/her own mind. Starting at the front: Updated spinner information HERE. Four more posts to come as the spam filter allows...
  7. Hi all After lurking in the shadows, I've eventually got my act together and am starting a post regarding my first build here on LSP . I've built quite a few kits, but this one is going to be my first in the public domain.....I know that there is an "In the Navy" GB going on, but I'm not sure I'll make the deadline for that GB, so didn't post this there. It's going to be a kitbash of the Hasegawa and Trumpeter Hellcats - if it goes that far - but my plan is to use the Hasegawa fuselage mated to the Trumpeter wings, as both kits IMO have their good and bad points. I've got a fair bit of AM to throw at it, and I know there will be some scratch-building required as well.... My overall problem with the Trumpeter kit is the fuselage - it looks way too blown and rounded, it should be more slab-sided, and the Hasegawa fuselage is way better (not perfect) in that respect! I do however like the Trumpy wings more than the Hasegawa offering (sans the Trumpeter mad riveter offering which will have to be addressed), hence foray into a kitbash. If it will turn out that way we'll have to see, I might end up doing a full Hasegawa if it's going to cause to many issues. But I do enjoy a challenge.....(ask my Revell Ju88C-6...it lived - many times it came close to doing a first and final flight into a wall) Here's pictures of the Trumpeter vs Hasegawa fuselages and cowls - you can see how bloated the Trump kit is... Trumpeter left, Hasegawa right. Hasegawa is not perfect, but it's a lot better!! Hasegawa Left, Trumpeter right. The Hasegawa cowl is WAY better than the Trumpeter. Might have to work on the chin and grin a bit, but I'll have a look once I've checked it against my cross-sections and references. So here we go. Hopefully I'll remember to take pictures as I go along If anyone has sage advice, please chip in!! Iain
  8. Hi guys. This is my first topic here. I've been watching this forum for a long time, but I don't build large-scale models. I prefer 1/72 for aviation and 1/35 for vehicles. I was inspired by the work of the Fw-190 A8/R8 by Sasha As. It won't be fast, but I hope you enjoy it. I have this build kit. And I got guns by Master. But I want to build A3's variant in Tamiya's kit 61037 First I installed the wheels bay. I cut the plastic incorrectly and cracks formed. I will remove them later. It was also difficult to install the bay in the center. I was upset when I found a stumps on the cockpit floor for his legs. So I made elements that, in general terms, repeated the original. I will install leg bindings after painting. Eduard's photoetch is often flat in cases where it is not. I made a handle instead of a flat piece. Engines are always my headache. Only if you are building a large scale model you are not be cut with a scalpel and your desk will not be covered in your blood when you remove the pushers of cylinders. I had made the pushers out of copper wire. My set is A4, but I want A3, so I had made new panels with holes.
  9. Greetings fellow modelers: After building a few 1/48 scale kits, I'm back to take a crack at another 1/32 Dora. I've decided on White 12, Wk Nr. 500408 from 5./JG 301. Here's some nice artwork from IBG's new 1/72 release. I tend to gravitate to the Mimetall camo schemes for some reason. I'll be using the Hasegawa ST-19 kit with a number of aftermarket items for the build. The aftermarket goodies include: Aires cockpit upgrade HGW riveting set Eagle cals #32-61 HGW seatbelts Yahu instrument panel One man army stencils Synthetic ordnance works landing gear Quickboost Exhaust Eduard canopy masks Quickboost gun barrels Master metal gun barrels Barracuda wheels Eduard exterior detail set I wanted to use a Henri Daehne spinner and prop kit, but unfortunately Henri has shut down his shop in Germany for good due to the economic situation. I'll have to make do with the kit prop and spinner. Mr. Color lacquers along with Tamiya acrylics will be the main paints used. Here are some photos of the front office, which is now complete. I've also completed the engine plug with some extra plumbing and wiring. Starting on next steps to close up the fuselage. Thanks for looking. Comments and critiques are always welcome.
  10. Next build is this Hasegawa A6M5 Type 52 Zero Night Fighter (Kit no 08252). This kit will be built mostly OOB, with a few AM enhancements, and I will be using the kit decals to cut masks from for painting. (Scheme as per the box art) The aircraft will be built with a closed canopy - to show off the 20mm cannon that was installed in the rear part of the cockpit fuselage decking. Having an open canopy would hide the defining part of this aircraft - so I will not be going to town on the cockpit - it will be built OOB with nothing extra than some HGW belts. I have a HGW rivet set to throw at it, as well as Master brass barrels and Eduard wheels and CMK Bay doors. I also have an Eduard exterior detail that I bought for my Tamiya Zero (built) but never used it. Thought I might use it on this kit, but some measuring, looking at fit, etc later. I've decided against it as the design of this Tamiya-specific AM wouldn't work well. So the wheels wells remain as they are, and the flaps will remain up! The gear wells will do, perhaps a line or two will be added. So far I've snipped the major parts off the sprues, and completed the assembly work on some sub-assemblies. Most of it is only dry fitted at the moment, but parts like the cockpit assemblies are ready for paint Fuselage halves are only dry-fitted together, as well as the engine. It seems to go together pretty well!! I've drilled out the holes in the cylinders for the ignition wires, etc I made rivets on the rear cockpit decking, this was missing on the kit, but quite prominent on the real a/c. Will have to redo some of them methinks once I glue it all together The kit gear legs with the Eduard wheels and CMK doors. CMK only provides two support struts between the doors and the legs, should be three, so I'll have to SB another one, but that shouldn't take too long at all!
  11. Just completed this one for the "Turning Japanese" GB, which was an absolute blast to participate in. The Hasegawa kit is excellent, overall, with outstanding fit and good detail. However, I added a few things to the kit, as well. The additions/modifications were... * Yahu Instrument Panel. * HGW seatbelts. * Master brass cannon barrels. * Wires, hoses, etc. added to the cockpit. * Added sparkplug wires and hoses to engine. * Riveted the entire airframe. * Most markings masked and painted. National Insignia masks from Dead Designs and tail/fuselage number masks were made on a Cricut, using the kit's decal sheet as a guide and cut from Tamiya's Kabuki tape paper. *Antenna wire made from EZ-Line. *Probably plenty of other little bits that I'm forgetting (noticed that I forgot to add the landing gear indicators to the tops of the wings, but I'll get to that!) Paints used were mostly Gunze/Mr. Hobby, with a few from Tamiya, MRP and AK interactive. I also used some of AK's Engine oil and Pigment Fixer (for pastel dirt/dust). The photos were difficult, since I'm currently snowed in and would usually be doing outdoor, forced perspective shots. I had to take them in my shop with LED lighting, which is pretty horrible for photography and made capturing the colors extremely difficult. There is a lot of glare that I couldn't quite get rid of. The plane appears much brighter in most of the photos than it appears in real life. From more than a couple feet away, it appears plenty dark, but as you get closer, the layered color shades and underlying rivets start to pop out at you. Overall, I'm quite happy with how it turned out and am looking forward to the next GB! Thanks for looking and for everyone who followed along with the WIP thread. On to the pictures! Thanks again, John
  12. On the workshop landed such a small and quick project Mc.205 "Veltro" from Hasegawa in 1:48. The model almost straight out of the box, the rest will come out during construction. As the model has its years this is the start of its construction. Another Italian but in JG77 camouflage.
  13. Well, after much consideration, and complicated by the vast pool of amazing talent on display here at LSP making me feel like l am in the company of master craftsmen, I have decided to post a build log of my first LSP as an adult. A bit of background, like most here I was an avid modeler as a boy, 1/48 was my chosen scale, almost exclusively aircraft, and those were all world war two military aircraft. Then I went away to school, started a career and family, and suddenly, decades later, I saw a modeling magazine, and decided I could use the distraction of another hobby, something I could do at home. I started with 1/35 armor, thinking my fat fingers could re learn the hobby with something larger and less dainty than aircraft. I learned a lot, PE, resin, scratchbuilding, patience, stencils rather than decals, weathering, oil paints, figure painting, and the wonderful community of the internet. Rather than reclusive loners toiling away and safeguarding secrets, I found a worldwide community of people anxious to share tips and techniques. Well, it was bound to happen. At a raffle, I won some wingy things, notably Hasegawa's 1/32 P-47, and I am ready to build it. And blog it. Warts and all. Now that I'm grown, money isn't as tight as it was when I was on an allowance. So I do indulge in aftermarket stuff occasionally, but I like to add details the old fashioned way, too. So let's list the kit and aftermarket I have planned, subject to change should I mess up the kit engine, or decide not to use an AM part: Hasegawa P-47 bubbletop Big Ed PE, including exterior and colored cockpit details. (I will first paint the kit panel, then decide if its acceptable. I will likely need input on that.) Quickboost gun barrel covers RB Productions seat belts Custom masks by Mal Mayfield. I am going with Gabreski's bird, I know its been done to death but I love the colors and I built one in 1/48 that came out well. I plan to detail the kit engine, see below, but that is subject to change if I muck it up. I am aware of some pitfalls, I already filled the wing and fuselage sink marks. I know I need to drop the engine mount by a millimeter, but will likely ask for some help on exactly how to do that. In the past couple weeks, I masked the detail around the sinkholes and filled them. I planned to use Mr Surfacer, but my pot dried up. Luckily, I had some Tamiya white putty. Stinks worse than the old squadron green, but it was easy to work with. Then I started on the kit engine, which is nothing to write home about, but I guess not much will be seen. The detail on the cylinders is pretty soft. I painted the cylinders with a testors non buffing metalizer I had on hand, cant remember if it is steel or aluminum. I did several washes, starting with Flory dark, which didn't want to stick at all, so I switched to some home brewed oil wash, van duke brown and white spirit. Then I drilled for plug wires, and added the oil piping from .9mm lead wire, it's a little fat but I want it to be seen since I bothered to put it there. While contemplating a resin motor, I looked at a lot of resin and photos of real engines, and decided the Hasegawa motor is pretty lacking. The ignition cable assembly is some kind of combo between the round and square cross section. I decided I will build the round, so I cut off the detail and cut some small brass tubing to serve as the openings for the plug wires. I will add the wires next, but here are some photos of where it sits today. I work very slowly, and sometimes I cant get bench time in for a few weeks, then I will log time every evening for a week, so I apologize in advance if updates are sporadic. Boring wing fix Engine work Wedding ring for scale. Even though these parts are over scale, i dont think i can work with parts much smaller. Inter ear drain tubes added. Rear bank, the front ones came out smaller and tidier Dry fit, just to see how it is fitting. I will add ignition wires next. Any comments and criticism are welcome. This is good exercise, but is it worth it? Thanks for reading, Bill
  14. Thanks to everyone who posted in my thread asking for advice regarding ordnance on US aircraft in RAF service, specifically Thunderbolts in Burma. So I thought that the least I could do by way of a "thank you" was to post a WIP. Here's the kit: And here are the bits: I'll be adding a set of RAF bombs per the advice in due course. The nondescript square top right is my sheet of home-cut masks, I thought the cuts wouldn't show, but it deserves to be there. And I decided to start with a bit of "creative destruction" on the panel to fit the Yahu one. I've only just started here. It seems a shame somehow, but I had already bought the Yahu panel. If I do a second one I may not bother, I'll see what I can do with the kit panel. That's it for now, more in due course.
  15. Hello every body Here is my first build here and i hope he will go to the end... My idea is to make the Italian G-14 WNr 464380 yellow one of Mjr. Mario Bellagambi. I will develop the history of this plane (the research part of the building is my favorite) later I would like to thanks Mr Jean-Claude Mermet, a one "O" nine master researcher who really help me by his knowledge during this buid. The base is of course the old but good Hasegawa G-14. Good because he is detailled and nice in shape, old because there are a lot of details to had. The most boring are the landing gear bay to detail. For begining the excellent cockpit from MDC with a bit of detailing (end MW 50 instrument on the left) and MDC dials, Airscale stencil and HGW seat belts (G-6 model). The base is Tamiya XF63 (next time i will use AK real i think) and highlight with XF66. The seat had before an aluminium coat. Brush paint with Prince August. Weathering is a mix of ... improvisations with oils, pigments, felt pen, color pencil, etc... Hope you enjoy it. I am open to any comment and correction. Next will be the fantastic Henri Daehne Prop :-) Best from France Sorry for the picture quality, I am not a good photographer... Matt
  16. Good day, gents. A little while ago, I decided to participate in the Multi-Engine Group Build. Since my entrant will be the HKM B-17E built to be the Swamp Ghost, I need to clear the bench to make room for the big, four-engine beast. So, I knocked out the Trumpeter F4F-4 last weekend and plan to have the Hasegawa Ki-84 Frank done by this weekend. Being on a major early Pacific war kick right now and, being something of a glutton for punishment, I have decided to tackle the Hasegawa P-40E before the end of the year. Thus, this WIP thread, the speed-build of the Hasegawa P-40E. Here's to hoping I can get it out the door by 12/31/18 because I fully intend to start the group build B-17 thread on 1/1/19. That said, I made some good progress this weekend. The cockpit is done and, if I get any time at the bench tonight, I should be able to close up the fuse halves. The cockpit of the P-40 is complete. Painted with a hodgepodge of Tamiya, Alclad, and Vallejo Model Colors. The interior green is a custom mix of Tamiya paints that I came up with. I believe it is 1:1 flat yellow and flat green. The only aftermarket item here is the seatbelt harness. The shoulder harness is from an Eduard kit in the spares box. The lap belts are Tamiya tape cut to length and painted. The buckles come from the same Eduard set as the shoulder harness. I realize it may not be perfectly historically accurate, but I figure it's close enough. Everything else is straight from the kit. Chipping was accomplished by using Micro Mask as an undercoat before painting base colors. Parts were weathered with oils and Tamiya black panel liner. The seat was washed with Tamiya's brown panel liner. I used a drop of Future on the two gauges to give them a glass lens appearance after picking out the dial face with a silver Prismacolor pencil. The hard-to-see hydraulic fluid leak on the emergency hand pump lever is Abteilun 501 Engine Grease oil paint. The pilots left-side panel. Chipped with a silver Prismacolor pencil and weathered with oils and Tamiya panel liner washes. Pilot's right side panel. Chipped with a silver Prismacolor pencil and weathered with oils and Tamiya panel liner washes. The instrument panel, all straight from the kit and hand painted as I've never had much luck overlaying decals on raised details. The dial faces were picked out with a silver Prismacolor pencil while the rest was painted with various Vallejo paints. The glass effect was achieved with a drop of Future into the molding for each dial. All in all, pretty happy with the final results.
  17. Hello again Some more images taken, this time it's a FW190A-6/R11 of 6./NJG300. Hasegawa Fw190A-6 kit Eagleparts cockpit, spinner and prop, outboard cannon wing fairings, tail wheel set, main wheel/tyres EagleCals Fw190's JG300 Part 2 (used as reference for the major markings to cut masks, some decals used) Master Barrels and pitot set HGW seatbelts Quickboost Revi C/12D gunsights Owl Fug 217 antenna plus SB items AIMS Fw190 Oleo markings MDC Drop tank Landing light in the left wing leading edge SB. Now.....when I was building this kit, my references plus the riveting plans I was using showed the cannon fairings/bulges on top of the wings. I was told just after I laid the paint scheme down that the A-6 didn't have them. So disclaimer - I've probably messed up . I wasn't going to destroy everything to take them off. It is what it is. Paint is Gunze Laquers - RLM74/75/76 scheme, with the 74/75 misted over with 76 to reduce contrast. Thanks for looking Iain
  18. Hi Guys, Last year I posted Focke Factory in this forum where I built four of Hasagawa's Fw-190D9 models at the same time. Now I've looked around to see there are SIX more D kits hanging around, with a few bits that have disappeared. So I thought "why not?" and here we are with Focke Factory II. When I built the original engine inserts I actual made seven, all painted ready to go, so that's only three more to build and paint. And I bought another Jerry Rutman D-13 conversion, this one will get chopped back to a D11. It's essentially the same as the D13 but omits the nose cannon and adds two MK108 cannons just outboard of the undercarriage legs. One D9 will have a broad chord Big Tail, the one that was going to fit late D series and all of the Ta-152 series. There were only two documented Big Tail D9s so this time I'm going for the one that hasn't got much documentary evidence, having already built the well known one! The engine inserts ready to paint. Note three completed ones at the top, left over from the original builds. The first mini bulkhead in place. Only another 11 to cut and fit. Kit seat on the right, all thick and nasty! Thinned down one on the left. The seat itself is sheet metal, not armoured. Armour was fitted to the bulkheads. Mass production of tailplanes. Turn on the TV and just do it! Building tails. Two of the Big Tails on the left will eventually work their way onto a coupe of PCM Ta-152C kits. It's a start! Regards, Bruce Crosby
  19. It's been a while since I've posted anything... a long, long while. I'm slowly dipping my foot back into the water, so to speak. I'd like to start with a recently completed kit which has a bit of a backstory. A few years ago, when I was a member of the Austin Scale Modelers Society, one of our members passed away. It happens, although too frequently these days it seems. One of the other members was given a stack of kits to pass out to other members of the club. We all drew straws, and I drew the short straw and picked last. This kit was the last thing in the pile. It didn't look like much, half started, but it did come with a set of BarracudaCals for the P-40K. On it was some markings for a P-40K (Evelyn II/White 171) flown by Maj. Elmer Richardson out of Hengyang, China in late 1943. Maj. Richardson flew with the 75th FS, 23rd FG, and this aircraft had a faded O.D. finish with fresh O.D. over-sprayed to cover some previous markings. What was even more interesting was the DF football behind the canopy and the addition of a second set of droptank/bomb shackles. It was these markings that Pat had set out to build. Well, flash forward seven years, a bit longer than I had hoped, and here is the result. I still have to add antenna wires and the rearview mirror. Sorry for the cellphone pics. And, as always, constructive comments are welcome. Thanks for stopping by... -randy
  20. CJP

    RAN A4G

    Hi All - I,m a newbie on LSP and thought I would post up my restoration of an old Hasegawa 1/32 Skyhawk kit that was gradually losing bits and succumbing to damage sitting on a shelf. I actually have a current post for the WIP on Britmodeller and have only recently discovered some Skyhawk models on LSP by GDW and Anthony in NZ that got my admiration - as it is a 1/32 model I thought I would post the WIP here as well. The link to the Britmodeller WIP is here - https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235027738-ran-a4g-skyhawk/ The photos below show where the restoration is up to as of this morning. This is a shot of where she will sit in the display case next to my Fisher Sea Fury - might even be able to squeeze a 1/32 Sea Venom with folded wings in there too one day & maybe the Fisher Firefly! regards CJP
  21. Admin/Moderators, please move to correct area if this isn't appropriate place. I’m really wondering if I need to clear out some of my stash of older kits. I know most the old Revell 1/32 kits date from the 60s and have been reissued several times AND by and large been eclipsed by far better kits. The only one I’m not sure about is the Revell Hurricane Mk I. IIRC, the molds were modified to produce the cannon equipped version Mk II. Is that right? I have fond memories of building the Corsair, P-40, P-47, Typhoon, Spitfire Mk I, Wildcat, Stuka and Zero and maybe others…and may even build the P-40 as a lark as I remember it being a decent looking model…despite being an E in AVG markings. What about the SBDs? Former Matchbox IIRC. Neither opened, but expect them to be of the same era and lacking as badly as the P-47 and P-51B. Same with the P-38J kit. Having the Trumpeter, I doubt I’ll build one and don’t need two. On the old Hasegawa and Hasegawa/Minicraft kits, they are largely of the early seventies. Are the old M-109E and Fw190s decent kits? I’m not much of a German a/c builder, though thinking these might be good projects to learn on. While improvements over the Revell kits, are they reasonable accurate or do they have major shape/fit issues? I think the 109G14 is a much later and better kit. Is that true? I found a 2002 date on it versus 60/70s on the others. How does the Zero compare to the Revell? What about the Oscar? These were is sealed clear poly bags I didn’t want to open so hard to compare. I certainly have a surplus of Hasegawa P-51Ds and will be shedding some of them. im working my way through Scalemates looking at various boxing’s and original tool dates. At the moment, nothing is for sale or trade, but some soon will be once I get educated a bit more. I acquired many of these from a good friend who was a retired USAF F-106/F-15 pilot and retired FedEx Captain. He died in a small plane crash a couple of years ago and his wife gave me all his kits which accounts for me having multiples. Nothing is up for sale or trade at the moment. I will list it here first when I decide what I'm doing with which kit and gauge if there is any market for these or if postage will be more than they are worth. I am hanging on to my new Hasegawa P-47s (3). I would appreciate your feedback. H-278 and 04781 H-296 and 04722 Both 04711 4749 and H-280 H-283 and H-279 H-295 and H282 (two) H-217 JS-060 and JS-073 JS-070 and JS-060 JS-086 x2 and (not shown 1086 x3) Both JS-060:400 JS-073 and ST18:4200
  22. The weather was finally decent enough for outdoor photography on this one, but the lighting was still strange and a lot of the photos look a little darker than I would like. But, here we go... This is the A-6 that I was working on basically at the same time as I was doing the A-5/U12 I posted the other day. However, since I used the A-5 to test out a variety of new paints, this build was going to take it to the next step. As I had mentioned before, the A-5 was (hopefully) the last build I ever did with my old Paasche H single action airbrush. It was during the construction of these two kits that I decided I was going to take the plunge and get a new airbrush that would take me closer to the direction I want to be heading. Being that the camo scheme of this A-6 is a bit more complex, it was the also the perfect test bed for a new airbrush. I looked at the Iwata Eclipse brushes at the local Hobby Lobby and did a bunch of research and review reading before I reached the decision to go with the Harder and Steenbeck Infinity CR Plus with the .15mm and .4mm nozzle/needle combo. Now, for the plane: -Kit: Hasegawa Fw 190A-6 -Decals: Stencils and "Friedel" heart decal from Eagle Cals. Werk Number was pieced together from spares and the "3s" were actually made from 8s and I touched them up with paint. Unfortunately, I only had enough to do one side of the tail and couldn't print any because my printer hates me. The "White 12" is a combination of spares from Eagle Cals and Kagero. Checker nose from Eagle Cals. -Masks: Montex used for the wing/fuselage crosses and tail marking. -Quickboost exhausts -HGW Seatbelts (but assembled from spares and not exactly perfect or complete) -RB Model brass MG17 muzzles -E-Z Line antenna wire (inside canopy, too!) with CA glue for insulators -All 20mm barrels cut from aluminum tubing -Wire brake lines and wine bottle foil straps -Drilled out holes in oleo scissors -Wire and styrene used to make the landing gear actuator wiring on the scissors and the tailwheel retraction cable was made from wire and the mount for it from styrene and scale nuts/bolts (I forget the brand). -Valve stems added to tires made from stretched sprue. -Gun sight reworked to fit after leather padding on instrument hood filled in with styrene and Milliput -Rudder light was sanded off and a new one made from copper tube and contoured back in with Milliput. Contoured sprue for the bulb. -Rudder trim tab was deformed in this kit, so I sanded it off and and made a new one from sheet styrene. _Outboard 20mm cannon fairings have the "bumps" added with Milliput. -Landing gear indicators from stretched sprue. -Aluminum tubing used in the leading edge of the wing for the 20mms. These serve as a guide and a better foundation in which to glue the barrels. -Aluminum tubing also used to depict the gun camera lens bezel. The lens itself is stretched clear sprue, polished and then inserted into the tube and being given a couple drops of Future (or whatever it's called nowadays). -Last, but not least (actually done before assembly and paint), the entire airframe was riveted using the Trumpeter riveting wheel. Paints Used: The main scheme of RLM 74/75/76 was all MRP paint and was given a coat of flat lacquer after weathering with oils. I did add a light mottle of RLM 76 using AK Interactive's Real Colors RLM 76 Version 2 over the MRP 76, as it is the lightest of all the 76s I have and it helped give more depth to the color. I also used MRPs white mixed with the 74/75 and used a similar technique to give a little more contrast in spots. I was very subtle about it, but it helps. Next time I may get a little more adventurous, but I'm still learning with the new paints and airbrush, so I'm happy with how it turned out. Prop blades were originally done with Model Master enamel mix of their RLM 70 Schwartz Grun and Flat Black. I came back and and added a light spray of Tamiya Black Green, later on. The crosses/swastika were all painted with Gunze Gloss Off White and Tamiya Rubber Black. Tires were built up in various stages with the rubber black and Tamiya Red Brown 2 (and I know there was a light mist of Model Master Italian sand thrown in there at some point, as well). The exhaust stains were also done with very thin layers of rubber black and Red Brown 2. Cockpit was done in a mix Model Master RLM 66 and black, but the headrest assembly was done later on, after I had received MRP's 66, which is much closer to the real thing and probably what I will run with from now on. There are plenty of things I would do differently in this build, if I were to do it over (and some mistakes that the photos just revealed! LOL). However, I'm very happy with how it turned out. In fact, it's probably my new favorite 190 model! Enjoy! John
  23. This is the first Fw 190 of two that I will be posting. I sort of built them at the same time, but before the painting stage I decided to focus on this A-5 and use it as a guinea pig, of sorts, for some new paints. I've been using Model Master enamels, almost exclusively, for most of my life. However, there were a few things that have been leading to me wanting to change and that obviously ends with the issue of the company's acquisition by Rustoleum and announcement that these paints would be discontinued. But even before that, I was already having issues with the quality of the paints that didn't seem to be present before and I have also started using more oils in my finishing process, which is certainly easier to do with a good, acrylic based paint. Being that so many of the members here have been showing some amazing work with MRP paints, as well as some others, I knew which direction I wanted to go. I have also had limited experience with Tamiya and Gunze paints in the past, specifically for WW2 Japanese subjects, but knew I would probably want to give those a shot, as well as some of the AK Interactive Real Colors line. This would also be the last build for me done exclusively the old Paasche H single action airbrush. It's all I've used for nearly 30 years now, but this was another area where I knew I needed a change for the things I wanted to do. That will come in "Part Two", with the other Fw 190 (an A-6). For now, I'll focus on the A-5/U12, in the markings of Eric Hondt of Jg.11. While I've always like the markings of this plane, so many people do it that I was hesitant. But, if you want to build a referenced /U12 variant with the twin 20mm pods, you're pretty limited on options. I had both Jerry Crandall's decals and the resin gun pods, so I figured, "Hey, why not?". I had no real problems with any of the paints used. In fact, they all performed extremely well and I used 91% Isopropyl to thin them (except for the MRP, which you can spray straight out of the bottle). I shot the entire airframe with a rattle can aluminum as a primer. I should also note that I crushed the cowl assembly after primary painting while trying to fit it to the fuselage. The seams, which I had meticulously sanded were cracked through and I had to piece it back together. It's not perfect, but better than I thought it was going to be. This build actually fought me the whole way, for some reason and also reminded me of why I've painted the markings on most of my models for the last several years. I really don't like decals anymore. So, here's a list of what I did to the kit and the paints I used. Parts/Mods -Hasegawa 190A-5 kit -Eagle Cals #83 Fw 190A-5s -Eagle Editions MG 151/20 Pods -HGW Seatbelts (but assembled from spares and not exactly perfect or complete) -RB Model brass MG17 muzzles -E-Z Line antenna wire with CA glue for insulators -All 20mm barrels cut from aluminum tubing -Wire brake lines -Wire and styrene used to make the landing gear actuator wiring on the scissors and the tailwheel retraction cable was made from wire and the mount for it from styrene and scale nuts/bolts (I forget the brand). Also another new thing for me, as I've never added this to a 190 before. Not bad for my first attempt, but I've refined it a little on the A-6. -Valve stems added to tires made from stretched sprue -Gun sight reworked to fit after leather padding on instrument hood filled in with styrene and Milliput -Rudder light was sanded flat and a small piece of sprue added for a little better representation. Not perfect, but better than the small, split light as provided. -Landing gear indicators from stretched sprue. -Aluminum tubing used in the leading edge of the wing for the root mounted 20mms. These serve as a guide and a better foundation in which to glue the barrels. -Aluminum tubing also used to depict the gun camera lens bezel. The lens itself is stretched clear sprue, polished and then inserted into the tube and being given a couple drops of Future (or whatever it's called nowadays). -Last, but not least, the entire airframe was riveted using the Trumpeter riveting wheel (they're cheap and don't last through more than a few hard riveting jobs, but if you take your time and use a straight edge or tape as a guide, they work just fine). The A-5 was the "practice" run and the A-6 is certainly more refined, as you will see when I get around to photographing it and posting Part Two. Paints Used (Most are acrylic lacquer, except where noted) Here is where my experimentation with "new" paint started. Unfortunately, I could not get everything I wanted from any one manufacturer at that point in time. However, that was a perfect excuse to use a mix of brands and see how they look and react with each other. Again, I had no real issues and learned a good bit about all of them. The one thing I found to be important is how thin you can put these paints on. They all seem to lend themselves well to building light layers. This is another new direction for me. I've always leaned more towards a post-shading kind of style, but this was a little different. I found my work to be a little heavy handed in spots, but the paints were all pretty forgiving. I was also able to go back and paint over mistakes with relative ease. This did lead to me blotting out a lot of the rivets on the fuselage sides, unfortunately, but you live and you learn, I guess. Gunze Sangyo: RLM 74 and RLM 76. I also used their flat white to lighten these base colors for a faded effect in spots. Great, all around. I also used Gunze RLM 02 and 04 where required (mostly gear/bay for 02 and cowl underside for the 04). AK Interactive Real Colors WW2: RLM 76 (version 2). This is the lightest/brightest of AK's 76 paints (they have three variants in this line and I have them all). It was used as a mottled effect on the underside of the aircraft where the base 76 coat was the Gunze, as well as becoming the predominant color on the fuselage sides. The AK paint seems to like a lot of thinner. Sprays great and was really durable for me. I had done some tests on an old 190A-8 fuselage where I used AK's RLM 76 versions 1 and 2, for comparison, along with some of the others I've mentioned and some old Model Master enamel. I abused them with oils, Testors flat lacquer and plenty of rubbing and it stood up to pretty much everything. I know AK's Luftwaffe colors have raised some eyebrows for being a little strange, but the first two RLM 76 variants are quite useful, I think. The third, late war version, I haven't tested yet. I'm thinking of doing a Dora next, so maybe..... MRP Mr. Paint: RLM 75 and I have their White, as well. It didn't take me long to figure out why people really like MRP paint. This was what I started with as a test and it lead to me ordering several more colors, which were used to do most of the A-6 build. In the case of their RLM 75, it can be laid on in a more opaque layer that appears fairly dark from certain angles and at distance, but really starts to pop out and feel brighter, the closer you get to it. You can layer it thinly and it gives a much lighter appearance, especially if you're shooting it over a light/metallic color primer. I did add the white to play with shading a bit, but with the old airbrush, I felt I didn't have the control I would need to really get more from this paint. It really deserves a good airbrush. Tamiya: "Black Green" (I didn't write down the number, but it's close to RLM70) was used for the prop blades and spinner. However, it should be noted that I had already painted them with a mix of Model Master RLM 70/Flat black, so it's actually a layering of sorts, but the Tamiya Black Green is predominant. Model Master Enamel: Insignia Red for the stripes on the fuselage. I didn't have any RLM 23 at the time and I like the darker look of the Insignia red in this particular case, anyway. Not saying it's more correct (likely less), but just my personal preference on this model. By the way, masking those stripes was more nerve racking than I expected. Edit to add: Testors Semi Gloss from a rattle can was used to seal in the oil washes and decals, but I really wanted that sheen on this one. I like the way it turned out. I'm sure I have left a bunch out, but this is already too long. So, here are some pics. Enjoy! John
  24. So in keeping with the GB's theme I've going along with a duel build/s. First up is Revell's Spitfire IXc along with the normal am etc. I'm attempting to build it as a little dio as per these photo's I have a resin pilot thats pretty close to the first photo and should work well? Its also a chance to have the flaps down and displayed and I have a set in the stash! It also helps that I wont have to worry about the undercarriage, which is my least liked job of any build For my second build its Hasegawa's Fw 190A-8 again with a bundle of am. for this one it will be a scheme I found on an aeromaster sheet in 48th, and found reference (although no actual photos exist) in Luftwaffe's last hope book (along with the Spit). Again this was a downed plane so may well do another little dio. Yesterday I started on the pe for the flaps... 3 hours work but looking good? Aaron
  25. Here's my build, ironically it was the next on my bench just because I liked the scheme so much, but with the new GB about to start worked perfectly. No doubt I'll add some extras into the mix and have to snag a Revell late canopy (my second hand kit clear parts were MIA) Aaron
  • Create New...