Hubert Boillot

Good to see you making use of this kit, Max. Looking forward to see your progress with it
 
Hubert

I just wish you hadn’t mentioned the Scaledecks’ name  ...
 
Now I have two of their decks on their way to home ... and might ask them about doing a 1/200 Mikasa deck !
 
Keep it coming
 
Hubert
 
 
 

It also answers THE other big question : « what do you need instructions for ? »
 
Neat work
 
Hubert

To straighten wires, just roll them under a steel ruler on a hard surface. Works like a charm.
 
Hubert

To straighten wires, just roll them under a steel ruler on a hard surface. Works like a charm.
 
Hubert

To straighten wires, just roll them under a steel ruler on a hard surface. Works like a charm.
 
Hubert

If only I had half of your painting and airbrushing skills, I'd be the happiest man on Earth ! :)
 
Fantastic build, painting and weathering
 
Hubert.

You are a modelling machine, Michael
 
Looking forward to seeing this one unfold
 
Hubert

To slow down the polymerisation of CA (not block it completely, mind you), you can also store your tubes/bottles in an airtight box, in which you have also added some of these silica gel sachets aimed at trapping moisture, and that you find in almost any packaged goods imported from PRC  ...
And then, even better, store the box in a dry, cool place, like your fridge (plus it gives you an opportunity to grab a beer each time you want to glue something  )
Why ? because CA setting is usually triggered by moisture in the ambient air (and therefore blowing on an assembly which uses CA is not a completely stupid idea ... )
 
Hubert
 
BTW, the airtight box will also show that CA fumes are getting out of seemingly tightly closed bottles, and whiten the inside of the box over time ...

Assuming one kit built every two weeks, that’s 26 a year, so 250 years of building ...
 
About as optmistic as my 100-kits stash with one-every-three-years production rate
 
Hubert

Assuming one kit built every two weeks, that’s 26 a year, so 250 years of building ...
 
About as optmistic as my 100-kits stash with one-every-three-years production rate
 
Hubert

Good news, no, EXCELLENT news, Dale
 
As for « the organ in your head interfering to complete kits », I would not worry that much about it ... unless it means all of us (well almost all of us) are unkowingly treated with the same molecules as you had  ...
 
Hubert

Assuming one kit built every two weeks, that’s 26 a year, so 250 years of building ...
 
About as optmistic as my 100-kits stash with one-every-three-years production rate
 
Hubert

Here is my last build - the kit from Hobby Boss.I used the HpH cockpit set,canons from RB,exhaust pipes from QB,mainwheels from PCM Spitfire Mk.IX,wingtips from Tamiya Spitfire Mk.VIII a few modification of the cockpit for the Mk.VI version,all markings are sprayed,the stencils are from kit decals.Used colors and varnish - Tamiya,Humbrol and Alclad... 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Just finish the seat and the canopy.
 

 

 
Next the gun sight, flaps, wheels, external tanks and rocket pods and that should do it! And the pitot as the last part Dan!
 
Stay tuned!

Hi all,
Well the engine is done as far as I can go, so now it's onto the airframe.
Mike
 
 
 
 
 
 

Assuming one kit built every two weeks, that’s 26 a year, so 250 years of building ...
 
About as optmistic as my 100-kits stash with one-every-three-years production rate
 
Hubert

New technique tryout
 
I have been wondering how to replicate the typical weathering on the KA-6D
Like this

and this: (the white one  )

and this

 
More specifically the nose with the clearly visible effect of dirtying, cleaning, dirtying again...
 
Though the best way to try this would be to get the MIG scratching effect sprayed on the area, then tamiya smoke on it.
Once dry activating the Mig product with water then either brushing the area with a bery old short brush or even a sponge for more effect
First try on the stabs, where it's easily corrected in case of screw up:
 

 

 
Subtle or heavier, easy enough. I'm glad with that. Let's go on the nose area:
 

 

 

 
The contrast is emphasized int he picture, so the effect on the model is less visible (say more subtle  )
I'm happy with it, as always it will be toned down the coming corrosion control (fresh white in some area on top of that weathering) and with the gloss coat that's needed now before decalling
 
The underside and the reel have received the same treatment

 
That's my concept of a good Sunday at the bench
 
 

+ 1 !
 
Hubert

I masked off the radiator panels and sprayed them black, then mottled some Alclad Polished brass over them. 
 

 

 

 

 

 
I then took a photo of the decal sheet and uploaded it into Sillhouette studio and had my mask machine cut the rego masks.
 

 
The rudder has been painted and I have applied the small round logo directly to the unglossed fuselage as it has very minimal carrier film
 

 
Very rapidly coming together
 

 

Forgot this, it'd be criminal to forget my very first WW.
 

 
And this one is just because I love this aeroplane.
 

thanks chaps
 
little bit more done this weekend, but the little bit was actually quite important (& time consuming) in terms of dictating the success of the cockpit structure..
 
..I need to not only get the side walls right, but becuse I want to build up parts like sidewalls, floors etc seperately, I need to make sure I have sub-assemblies that can slot together when it comes to actually completing the cockpit 'pod'
 
one part of this will be the floor where the fuel tank sits and where the 'A' frame and seat will be mounted - this was a laminate of the detail layer, a full thickness PE strengthener and a thick card sub-floor..
 

 
..one thing that soon became obvious was I got the bulkhead positions wrong (the slots in the floor..) - I took them from where they would be not allowing for the slant of the 'A' frame, but given the 'A' frame is at an angle, it moves where these slots should be
 
I used a template to set the angle of the 'A' frame... the upper plastic card bit has an angle at the front...
 

 
,,and taped up before adding lots of CA and strengthening bits where they can't be seen under the floor..
 

 
..I had to partially destroy the jig to get the sides out last week, but I figured a way to re-use it and spent hours fettling the parts so the floor sat correctly with the A frame in position and the slots for the bulkheads..
 

 

 
..the trickiest part is the bulkhead that goes where the big slots are - this is in bits in the real one and bolted together - I made it one piece so need to thread it onto the floor like cotton into a needle and twist it into postion..
 
..this means I have some tidying up to do around where the floor & bulkheads meet..
 

 
.. this is all now correctly positioned and I can use this when it comes to assembling the second bulkhead permanently to make the floor sub-structure unit..
 

 

 

 
..coming together..
 

 
..next I need to think about the fuel tank that sits here - I meant to design it in 3D but didn't get round to it and now my free trial has run out - I might try balsa and tissue or something as it's quite an organic shape & covered in rough self sealing rubber..
 
until next time..
 
TTFN
Peter
 
 
 
 

Thanks folks & thanks Troy - that is exactly how I like to see it - one bolt at a time
 
I have made what is listed as the 'Right Switch Box' - it's this bit here..
 

 
..one of the advantages of making your own PE is that you can pre-think how to render shapes. In this case, the actual switch box is a simple rectangle with holes & details, but the circuit breaker cover plate is a structure i decomposed and 'folded flat' so I could try and fold it up in PE..
 

 
..with some folds & bends, I have a scale reproduction with all the angles juts right as they are from the drawing of just this part...
 

 
..made a base shape from thick card and assembled the laminate of the switch panel itself. It has a small dial so I added the decal and a sheet of glass to the back structure..
 

 
..then other components were folded or added and the switch handle made from bits..
 

 

 
..all sprayed with semi gloss black..
 

 
..and with the addition of the custom decals the component is complete..
 

 

 
..and this is where it will sit..
 

 
..more boxes & bobbins to come to carry on with the sidewall..
 
TTFN
Peter

Super smooth paint finish, Eric ! (Although, on my ipad screen, the red has a pinkish hue that does not look too « italian », but then, between lighting, camera and screen rendition, the probabilities of sameness to the original are nil ...)
 
Hubert

well thanks again rtwpsom2 - very useful guidance :)
 
I have tried to interpret what I see in photo's and the drawings and have now mounted it - hopefully this is near the mark?
 

 

 

 
got a main switchpanel up near the IP to start on next...
 
TTFN
Peter