scimitarf1
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Posts posted by scimitarf1
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9 hours ago, LSP_Kevin said:
No, CA is definitely an issue here, as I've had it happen too. I no longer use CA to glue lead weights into aircraft noses; it's too problematic. A brittle bond, combined with the exothermic curing action, just makes it too risky. For adding nose weight, I'm a complete convert to using good old Blu-tac! It works much better than you think it would.
Kev
Agreed on the safety angle. I will try blu-tack next time
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3 hours ago, thierry laurent said:
I avoid using lead if I have to use CA glue. There is a bad oxydation process of the lead when used with CA. Years ago, I even saw a 1/72 Skyhawk with the nose opened as a banana because the guy used small lead balls glued with CA to weigth the nose. Because of the oxydation, white powder was produced as the result of the chemical reaction and because of the volume increase the seam cracked between the fuselage halves! Nasty! Always use epoxy glue with lead. But in this case this is not really possible as I will need a very small amount of glue.
I am not sure it would have been Cyano. I had this happen with PVA and lead and think that people are confusing the two
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It is Number 10 published in the early nineties.
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This is fantastic work Thierry and is inspiring me to when I start mine on 10 July.
One thing I do need to check on my build is whether the Hasegawa MkII wing is the same chord at the wingroot as the Tamiya Fuselage.
Will
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I am hoping our Lockdown finishes soon as I intend to spend quite a while looking at the Mk1s at Hendon and Kensington.
I have always thought that Dzus are slightly raised disks as they reinforce the skin.
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On 6/7/2020 at 9:37 AM, thierry laurent said:
You will note this correction change has also one drawback. Indeed, the Dzus fasteners located under the exhausts should be moved up. However, I will probably leave them where they are as the plastic strips I had to add to fill part of the hole height are far too thin to sustain the required scribing or embossing work. So, this will probably stay one of the inaccuracies of my kit. I will just avoid black washes under the exhausts and by the way they will hide most of that problem.
Replicating Dzus fastenings has be scratching my head until Archer came out with some.
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3 hours ago, Ali62 said:
Well I highly doubt that there will be another made in 1/32 scale..... but who knows, so will have to see what and or anything can be done with this offering we have.
I could not agree more. Any chance of you having a crack at it?
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On 6/7/2020 at 8:14 PM, scvrobeson said:
Pretty sure there's a GT Resin fix for the nose.
Matt
the problem is the issue with the nose starts basically mid-cockpit rather then being just the radome.
The F-105 is so iconic it is a shame that there is no decent kit of it
- Dragon and scvrobeson
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Good for you Thierry. Will be interesting to see how you get on with it.
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I am with you on this Chuck - same goes for Italian and armour as well. Don’t get me started on the 1/35 kits of German boxcars!
I can build Cold War Warsaw Pact stuff and like modern Japanese and German subjects too as well as Chinese (just thinking through the stash)
On the subject of boring markings for Allied subjects - you just need to look harder!
- MikeC and chuck540z3
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I have the MDC bits and will use them on my Mk1 - they look pretty good in the packet to be fair
1 hour ago, nmayhew said:those MDC parts look pretty cruddy and a generation old (sorry MDC)
Barracuda is way more refined
given the effort going in to this project etc etc etc
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7 minutes ago, Kagemusha said:
You could also combine the PCM IX with the Hasegawa/Revell Mk. I..?
Not sure but I have a feeling that it is itself based on the Hasegawa kit.
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Getting into detailed planning for this.
I plan on using the Tamiya Mk IX rear fuselage and tail surfaces as well as the cockpit structure. The windscreen, nose and wings etc will come from the Hasegawa Mk1.
I have the Eduard etch for the cockpit along with the Barracuda seat, door and detail bits along with the True Details wheels.
I plan on vac forming a canopy with the bulged top and flat sides.
I also plan on cutting my own masks as I want to make a machine with a funky colour underneath (eau-de-nil ideally)Is there anything else that I should be aware of?
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Nothing is ever perfect. I would be interested to see if he would have used the Hasegawa Mk1 wing if he had that.
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8 hours ago, Chek said:
There's this article where the Polish modeler combines the Tamiya with the Revell kit, and includes using those micro solderballs to turn the indented rivets into positive ones.
That is a great build with significant surgery.
Does anyone have photos of the details on the rear fuselage of the original Revell kit. I really want to get an idea of what the Fuselage looks like and what is worth using.
it is ridiculous that there is no good mainstream kit in 1/32 of either a Hurricane or Spitfire Mk1 given they won the first really/most significant air campaign ever
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That is a good question. Given the commonality is all marks until the 21 that should not be too much of an issue. I have heard some drawings done in Canada are very good and the Bentley drawings
are normally top quality.
i was surprised at how closely the profile of the Hase Mk V matches the Tamiya Mk IX - there really is nothing in it:
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47 minutes ago, thierry laurent said:
The old Revell kit has other issues such as a too thin nose (put a propeller from another kit and you will see it immediately). Moreover, besides the gigantic exhaust slots to correct, filling the huge trenches used to slide the canopy is quite difficult without damaging the fuselage rivets. And I do not even mention the radiator or tons of other things to recreate... Do not get me wrong. It is possible to get a quite nice early Spit from this kit but this ask for solid documentation, a good amount of old-fashioned modelling skills and many aftermarket and spare parts. So, this is surely not the easy approach.
Thanks for this additional useful info. This pushes me to use the Tamiya fuselage and the Hase nose
Rivets are straightforward to add using Archer rivets that I have already. The lapping less so to replace but the same applies to repairing damage.
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The mild gull wing effect is there on the Hasegawa origin kits I think. They lack the undercut.
Have made my decision:
Use the Hase Mk 1 as the base
get a Revell Mk 1
original issue and use the fuselage
back up 1 use the Tamiya Mk 9 fuselage and empennage
Back up 2 modify kit parts: I may try this first in any case using the Tamiya as a guide
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That is the one. Very good images
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The new 1/48 Airfix one is pretty good though Eduard I am sure will blow it away.
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24 minutes ago, eoyguy said:
The thing that amazes me about this is all the effort required to get a good representation of what is undoubtedly one of the most important aircraft ever flown, yet we get how many different releases of every version of the 109??? Of all the Tamiya wishing that I have read, this would be the ONE subject that I would like them to do. Even better if they went with raised rivets, but that's REALLY dreaming...
It is amazing that after all this time that is the case in 1/32. You would have thought someone would have done it justicefor the 80th anniversary.
1/32 Early Mustang Spinners?
in LSP Discussion
Posted
I bought the Grey Matter P-51 Spinner but would buy a nose correction. The Allison. Mustangs are so clean aerodynamically - just love them!