dodgem37

Super job, Clive! Gabby's P-47 scheme has been a hit with me since Monogram put out their Gabby D way, way back in the day. I particularly like the contrast between the new and faded paint on the wing panels. Just super! Keep up the good work and thanks for sharing. Sincerely, Mark

After each application I squeeze the sides of the container. This causes the front and back to expand which creates a vacuum and the glue in the stem retracts into the reservoir. HTH. Sincerely, Mark

Great job. One of my all time favorite schemes on one of my all time favorite aircraft. Sincerely, Mark

Right on, brother. Great job. Sincerely, Mark

My man. Thanks for putting in reality and sharing one of my all-time favorite aircraft in one of my all-time favorite schemes. Sincerely, Mark

I know nothing of other forum discussions. Aero Detail: Same size. Kagero: Same Size Pascal Huguet Conversion: Same size. Sincerely, Mark

Bekim, Superlatives all the way around. Skill, use of material and technology. Just a great and educational build. Mostly, I build tanks. I throw an aircraft in to break the monotony. Currently I am using this product: http://www.alibre.com/ to image the scratch built parts I am making and have made for this: http://grumpyoldman.smugmug.com/photos/516283911_unB5G-L.jpg http://grumpyoldman.smugmug.com/photos/516284542_hfaMV-L.jpg http://grumpyoldman.smugmug.com/photos/516285172_3gdKH-L.jpg so I can use this: http://www.printapart.com/ to make the masters. I've looked through and read your posts, and unless I missed something I can't find the 3D CAD product name or who is 'printing' your masters. Could you share the 3D CAD product name you are using and who is making your masters, again, if you have done so already. Thanks and keep up the fabulous work. Sincerely, Mark

Sweet. Superb effort all the way around. I can't tell you how much I'm enjoying your build. Many thanks for sharing. Sincerely, Mark

Please educate me. I don't use GS. I use MM enamels. Is GS enamel, laquer, or acrylic? Thank you. Sincerely, Mark

Damn, that's tight. Looks great. Sincerely, Mark

That is a very nicely done instrument panel. Sincerely, Mark

PM sent. Sincerely, Mark

This might help. RZM.com Sincerely, Mark

In case anyone is interested, this aircraft is in the Aero Detail book. Sincerely, Mark

I have the Horizon Vac and indeed it does not. A look in the archives shows that Scratchbuilder didn't either. 'Even with this modification to the vertical fin, the fuselage profile is not quite accurate for a "Rex". It should sweep up more towards the tail, as the depth of the rear fuselage of the "Rex" was not as deep as that of the "George". This can be confirmed by photographs and/or by comparing scale drawings. It is however, about as close as you can get without major reconstructive surgery.' http://www.largescaleplanes.com/articles/R...tz/Rex/rex.html The rear will take work. Not as much as Loic's Kate, but work none-the less. Pappy1, Kagemusha: Will scan and mail later today. Sincerely, Mark

Pappy1, PM sent. Sincerely, Mark

I've got a copy of a 2001 Model Art (No. 587) devoted to the N1K1, N1K1-J, and N1K2-J. For the Rex it has 2 paint schemes and line drawings and photos for the 3 evolutions. PM me if you're interested in scans. Sincerely, Mark

'The leather boot that covered the oleo and scissor links was removable (it was tied with a lace) so it could be fitted or removed easily.' Of course! Thank you. Sincerely, Mark

Please forgive the interuption, I just did some research on G-2's because I want my next build to be a G-2 Trop and (some) later G-2s had the larger tailwheel as the -4, but without the dust cover. It appears that G-2s did not have dust covers. But I've been known to be wrong! Sincerely, Mark

Kev, PM sent My only concern with posting the pictures here is with copyright infringement. If there are any Advocates out there that can allay this concern, I'll post them here. Sincerely, Mark

http://www.largescaleplanes.com/Marketplac...waMe109-G4.html http://www.largescaleplanes.com/Marketplac...waMe109-G6.html http://www.largescaleplanes.com/Marketplac...aMe109-G10.html http://www.largescaleplanes.com/Marketplac...aMe109-G14.html http://www.largescaleplanes.com/Marketplac...waMe109-K4.html No worries. Sincerely, Mark

Folks, I think I have a George Aero Detail lying about. I could scan some images amd PM them to you. Sincerely, Mark

Groovy! This might help: The scale is close enough at 1/33. Sincerely, Mark

Do It, Brother! Sincerely, Mark

Thomas, I am working on this kit as well. I'm doing a Hungarian G-14 from an IPMS Quarterly or Update from about 1970. It will be Light Brown H7 I'm going to offer some helpful hints. I may be right, I may be wrong. But there will be more color contrast to your cockpit. The gas line, paint the middle section silver. That represents glass. The circuit breaker box, the one with the big wires coming out of, paint the top row of buttons red. The ones you have painted as red, paint them black. The big wires coming out of the box on the right, paint them silver. The swirly wires next to the O2 regulator (the blue circle with things attached), paint those silver. The object the swirly wires come out of, paint that blue. Clean up the over-painting. The lower little red dot, paint that cockpit color. The one on the opposite end, paint that red or yellow. I painted mine yellow. But who knows if it is correct? This is the part that I liked to do the most: the flight control chain. The set of two parallel lines with the circles in them, at the bottom, are the chain to the wheels on the lower left side of the flooring. Paint those lines black with little aluminum dots every 1/2 millimeter or so. Tiny dots. They represent the connecting links in the chain. From the top. Run some wire from the front box forward to fill the space next to the top rudder pedal and paint yellow. It will help fill the space. Run conduit from each little box all the way back and thryu the cockpit wall. Paint black. Paint all of the buttons on the top boxes black. Leave the boxes 66. Paint the rudder pedals silver. Don't paint the openings. I sanded the pedals on my plane almost all the way down and then cleaned out the spaces then painted them. They are about .010 thin. Paint a piece of tape black and put it on the cannon housing. Paint the thin wire at the bottom of the picture yellow and the thick wire black. Lowlights: Make a wash of 10 parts carrier (water) and 1 part pigment (water based paint) and paint the cockpit with it. Mix your own color to match. You can make any color you want with red, blue, yellow, white and black. Some use a black wash. Some use a brown wash. For me, it depends upon the base color of the cockpit. Let it dry. If you don't like the contrast, add 1 more unit of pigment to your mix. Add water as required. Remove all of the excess that is not located in corners with a damp tip. Do your best to remove what is in recesses also. Do your best to just have recessed corners lowlighted. Highlights: When you weather, work outward in, and in a back and forth direction. You'll first start to emphasise the outline of the object and then the inner edges. Work from left-right then up-down. Or vice-versa. Use a dry brush. Don't use paint from the bottle. Use A LITTLE from the cap. Wipe it down on an absorbing surface until there is barely enough pigment on the brush to use on the model, then dry brush the area you want to highlight. Build it up. You can always go over the surface a second time and add if you don't have enough pigment. You have to correct if you have too much pigment. Do in two what you can't do in one. Dry brush all surfaces with its color. This will leave your edges highlighted. Don't forget to wash. The dashboard is blurry, but it looks ok to me. Forget weathering the non-detail flat surfaces. When you apply the wash you will coat the flat surfaces (because flat paint has a rough surface) with enough pigment that the intensity of the base color will tone down. Look at your pictures. If you only emphasize the edges, corners, and recesses and don't visually interfere with them by adding the other weathering (the weathering on the surface plane) you'd be set. Remove all of the other weathering. If you used prismacolor pencil, wipe it off. If you used paint. Dry brush over it. It can be corrected. Do this first. Let dry, correct previous painting, then weather. Don't use Silver. It is too intense of a color. Use flat aluminum. You don't need scratches and stuff JUMPING out, which is what they'll do if you use silver. Use aluminum, it's more subtle. For old scratches use aluminum before the wash. For new scratches, use after the wash and/or highlight stage. It depends upon when you want them to have occured. After you have created a light/midtone/dark contrast (weathering), if you want controls to appear to have been freshly used, add a fresh layer of paint to them. They will add a clean/dirty contrast to an already dulled down environment. Mantra: Do not weather surface planes. Lowlight recesses and corners. Highlight edges. Never use Silver, too much contrast. Use Aluminum. I think this is enough. This works for me. I hope this helps. If anyone else has any additions, corrections, or deletions, please feel free. I won't be offended. Believe me, I am no expert. Sincerely, Mark