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About ChrisK89

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    LSP Junkie
  • Birthday 08/02/1989

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  1. Thanks for the infos on this! I guess i'll try MMP-062, MMP-071 and MRP Insignia White then. cheers Chris
  2. Thanks for the help so far, but i already have nearly all Tamiya paints i need for these builds (interior colors etc.). The problem are the above mentioned colors where Tamyia gives us their stupid rattle cans instead of X/XF paints... Model Master Paints are out of question for me cause i can't buy them in the shops where i usually buy so i have to get other brands. Tamiya calls for AS 20 (Insignia White) for the undersides but it doesn't look like a white paint.. more a very light grey. AS8 for the upper side (US Navy Blue) and AS19 (Intermediate Blue) for the sides but there are nowhere any FS numbers to be found for these paints AND comparing some pics (I know its on a monitor so it can be very unclear) intermediate or navy blue doesn't look like their counterparts in other brands. So my question remains the same: I'm planing on building VF-17 and VMF-111. Which colors do i need in mentioned MRPaint or MMP range for the three tone schemes these 2 mashines had and if i can use Gunze H326 and their offwhite for spraying the markings? Thanks! cheers Chris
  3. Good Evening, my wife got me 2 Tamiya Corsairs (F4U-1 and F4U-1A) for Christmas and now i tried to find the right colors i need to build em but i've never researched/modeled any US planes and have absolutely no clue about the colors i need. I found a list on cybermodeler for the 3-tone-scheme the Corsairs were painted but somehow it is very confusing with its differences in late and early ANA 601, 602 etc. I'm planing to build the F4U-1 as VF-17 and Tamiya says i have to use AS-8, AS-19 and AS-20 . The same paints are needed for VMF-111 (F4U-1A) but shouldn't there be any differences in tonal variations cause of early and late versions of these colors? Every info you guys can give me on that matter are very welcome! Aswell as the best paints to use for these colors.. i was planing on getting some Mission Model Paints cause i can get em with 25% discount at the moment but i have no clue which colors are correct. AS-8 = USN/USMC Sea Blue FS 35042 (MMP-062) ? AS-19 = US Blue Grey FS35189 (MMP-061) ? AS-20 = Light Gull Grey FS 36440 (MMP-063) or Light Gull Grey FS16440 (MMP-069) OR Light Grey FS 36495 ? Would it be better to get the equivalent MrPaint colors instead of MMP for this cause of "smooth edges" on these schemes? I've never used MMP so far but it seems they perform much better on spraying smooth edges/mottling than other acrylic paints like vallejo or AK/MIG (with these paints i was never able to get a cloudy finish as it should be). As for the Marking Color i can use Gunze offwhite and the so called "insignia blue" but what FS number is it? 15044 should be correct right (Gunze H326)? Thanks for the help! cheers Chris
  4. I'll get one of these for sure. Let's just hope it will be around 50€/$ like the A-7 version.
  5. That's why we are here right? As i said the Tiger Model Terminator 2 is nice, has better details and is crispier than the Trumpeter model (at least what pictures show us till now) but there are 4 "big" flaws with the Tiger Model kit. 1. the rear cage armor should be made of 3 individual pieces instead Tiger did it as one 2. the APU hatch is too long 3. the turret ring armor should have 2 joint points on each plate (Tiger Model has none) 4. details on the barrel armor are missing If you can deal with these issues the Tiger Model Terminator 2 is a great kit with lots of details and workable tracks. cheers Chris
  6. If you want an accurate kit then you should stay away from this model. Detail is awesome but too many flaws. Trumpeter will release their Terminator 2 in the near future which should be the "better" kit for people who are more into accuracy. cheers Chris
  7. I just ordered 2 Albatros D.V./D.Va "Jasta 5" kits for 330€ inclusive shipping. That makes 55€ per Albatros.. awesome deal! Can't wait for the end of july cheers Chris
  8. I'll use the original WnW Lozenge decals on all my WnW models cause i don't like inconsistencies.. it looks pretty stupid to have so many different styles of fabric on my builds (just a personal opinion, no offense to anyone who is mixing the different manufactures). Besides the WnW decals are great! They sure should be cause cartograf printed them but try to keep the decals as small as possible else it will be difficult to remove any bubbles etc. cheers Chris
  9. I envy you guys... unfortunately the Fokkers hasn't arrived in germany yet In the end they'll be stuffed in our treasure boxes and probably never be built but hey.. we need em NOW, right? cheers Chris
  10. I finally got both cockpits done! I added Quickboost control sticks, Eduard interior PE sets + a lot of scratchbuilding and HGW Orlon Seatbelts. The Revi is still missing cause i don't know what to do.. I could use the Quickboost ones or i can use the Eduard PE to upgrade the kits gunsights. Enough talking for now. Here are the pics: Hmmm by looking at the pics it seems a bit too much wrecked up in there (dirt and scratches wise). Too late to change it now.. cheers Chris
  11. If you're really looking for something quiet, you should throw an eye on oil compressors. Werther compressors for example are very good but any oil compressor should do the job. I got myself a Werther SilAir 20A last year and i'm very happy. cheers Chris
  12. Don't give up yet! Tracks can be a pain but if you're finally done with them you'll have a wonderful model waiting for you. Plus its so much easier to paint it and get it dirty with this kind of workable track. GO Ron Go Ron! Hang in there!
  13. Yesterday i made a few adjustments to my PE and scratchbuilt parts on my Bf109 builds and noticed a very nice side effect of my Mr Cement glue. It can remove CA glue stains on mentioned metal/PE parts! It's not working in an instant more like removing dried white glue or Micro krystal clear but it works and the Mr Cement doesn't leave any markings or residues on the parts and you needn't any scratching to remove any leftovers. Don't know if this is already common knowledge to modellers but i'm pretty happy with this discovery. cheers Chris
  14. I finally snatched all the Kagero Bf109G/K books and some others. Unfortunately the He219 book couldn't provide any line drawings for the rivet pattern.. does anyone know a book where i can find infos on this? cheers Chris
  15. Judging from the pictures on the WnW website the decals are already pre cut to the correct shape but i would recommend to cut them into much smaller pieces... it makes it much easier to let them settle without any bubbles or wrinkles especially on the curved wing pieces. I had to learn the hard way as i needed nearly 2 months just to put all the decals on and remove all bubbles, wrinkles etc. on my Pfalz. I tried many things with them on my Pfalz D.XII build and the solution WnW recommends to us is to use a hairdrier/heat but that hasn't really worked for me. Instead i used all kinds of setting solutions (micro sol, mr setter/softer and the decal stuff from AK) and every one of them worked equally well. What you recognized as oversized is actually the cover for the leading edges, at least on the Pfalz D.XII. If your decals for the Hansa are indeed oversized then i would recommend to lay the decals according to the plans and let them settle. Afterwards you can use a sharp knife to cut them along the leading edge or just sand em very lightly.. the dried non sticky decals are very brittle and you shouldn't have any problems to remove the outsticking pieces.
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